6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
I've had good luck using these to house electronics on my bikes. They come in a variety of sizes and are reasonably weatherproof:
Calling all math majors
- Thread starter jobtraklite
- Start date
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
Now, I'm trying to find room for a coffee maker.
Here you go,..
A USB-C rechargeable coffee maker.
You can charge it while you ride.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I bought a Watt Hour meter,..
I realized that I can also use it to see the current tgat the LED strips are drawing in my grow closet,..
I've got 4 volt/ammeters keeping track of my LED lights,..
They SUCK !!!
There's too many amps going through the crappy little connector and they ended up burnt.
My lights would go dim or bright when I touched the connector.
Two adjacent walls were connected to one power supply and with the other two walls getting more power, the plant started leaning towards the brighter walls.
I ended up soldering wires directly to the circuit board to bypass the connector but never did convert them all, and just deleted them.
Now I use my light meter to measure PAR and a digital IR thermometer gauge to check the LED strip temperature to make sure I don't cook my plant or lights, but I would still prefer to see the current draw.
My strips have a temperature test point on them to check the temperature,..
At first I thought I needed to connect a metal probe to the copper Tc1 test point, but it's just a bare copper spot that gets the hottest.
The HAL sensor ammeter will Work GREAT to check the current going through my LED strips without interfering with the circuit.
I just unscrew a wire, feed it through the sensor then reconnect the wire.
I also found this volt/ammeter with screw terminals, but it also has that stupid built-in shunt thing with all the same shunt issues,..
The screw lugs would be a lot better, but I don't like running all the power through those crappy meters.
I realized that I can also use it to see the current tgat the LED strips are drawing in my grow closet,..
I've got 4 volt/ammeters keeping track of my LED lights,..
They SUCK !!!
There's too many amps going through the crappy little connector and they ended up burnt.
My lights would go dim or bright when I touched the connector.
Two adjacent walls were connected to one power supply and with the other two walls getting more power, the plant started leaning towards the brighter walls.
I ended up soldering wires directly to the circuit board to bypass the connector but never did convert them all, and just deleted them.
Now I use my light meter to measure PAR and a digital IR thermometer gauge to check the LED strip temperature to make sure I don't cook my plant or lights, but I would still prefer to see the current draw.
My strips have a temperature test point on them to check the temperature,..
At first I thought I needed to connect a metal probe to the copper Tc1 test point, but it's just a bare copper spot that gets the hottest.
The HAL sensor ammeter will Work GREAT to check the current going through my LED strips without interfering with the circuit.
I just unscrew a wire, feed it through the sensor then reconnect the wire.
I also found this volt/ammeter with screw terminals, but it also has that stupid built-in shunt thing with all the same shunt issues,..
The screw lugs would be a lot better, but I don't like running all the power through those crappy meters.
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