Better gear range than the 11/34t to 44t drive gear?

[Nvreloader]

Since I have limited experience with an electric bike, and I don't know the answer,
I'll ask this question:
I have been playing around with a cruise control, and like what I am finding,
with 25+ miles of flat open roads, to get thru, before my riding areas,
the speeds need to be refined, if possible.

When out on flat ground, I have the following speeds,
top speed of 24.8- 25.5 mph in the 11t gear, Eco 1 step,
and 16.2 mph in the 34t gear, Eco 1 step. (haven't tested any other gears yet)

I would like to reduce this 34T gear's speed to around 5-10 mph,
(as I find 16mph is a little to fast),
when I need a SLOW crawling speed thru very rough ground/rocky trail conditions etc.

Since I am NOT sure about the motor temperatures/efficiency in the steps for the gear range, that would be the best, (I don't want to lug this motor down, or get it hot).
while attempting to keep the best distance and battery usage efficiency as possible,
is there a better gear range than the 11/34t to 44t drive gear, than I have now?

I like going slow for 75% of my riding..........Stop and Smell the Roses, type of rider.............LoL

Your thoughts and suggestions............would be greatly appreciated.
Tia,
Don

 

[6zfshdb]

I don't know if this will be of any help or not since I'm not sure how the cruise control works on your bike. With mine, I can set it to any speed I want, select the appropriate gear, and apply pedal pressure to assist the motor. This way, I can ride comfortably at any speed.

On some bikes, cruise control and PAS can conflict with each other. The PAS is disabled when the throttle is activated and vise versa. It is sometimes necessary to turn off PAS and choose throttle only if that option is available.

On one of my bikes, the only way I can get this to work is use a manual cruise control device that clamps to the twist throttle such as this:

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[Nvreloader]

Thanks 6Z
I have been using the zip tie cruise control method,
and I can adjust the speed as needed, to a certain extent,
this is how I found the top speed for the 34T and 11T gears.

I tried peddling, but there was no way I could keep up
and I could not feel any peddle resistance, while trying,
in either gear choice,
my normal peddle speed is 10-12 mph per my gps.

I like you suggestion better from the Amazon info,
I will try that method also.

Thanks,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

There is also this potentiometer that works as a cruise control.
It's an adjustable throttle.

Aux Pot for Infinite On-the-Fly CA3 Adjustments

CNC'd Aluminum Handlebar Mounted Auxilliary Potentiometer for Infinite On-the-Fly Limit Adjustments of CA3

ebikes.ca

I was going to get one, but it comes to $65 CAD with tax and shipping.

I'm going to make my own,..

Adding a Rotary Dial Speed Control

I occasionally get a cramp in my right hand when using my half grip twist throttle. As a remedy, I built this small control box as an alternate way to adjust speed. In doing some research, I discovered a 3 wire hall effect throttle can be emulated with a variable resistor. I wired the control...

electricbikereview.com

 

[6zfshdb]

I was going to get one, but it comes to $65 CAD with tax and shipping.

I'm going to make my own,..

Adding a Rotary Dial Speed Control

I occasionally get a cramp in my right hand when using my half grip twist throttle. As a remedy, I built this small control box as an alternate way to adjust speed. In doing some research, I discovered a 3 wire hall effect throttle can be emulated with a variable resistor. I wired the control...

electricbikereview.com

I've been using the above scheme of mine for 2 years now and I find I rarely use PAS anymore. No matter how you set the individual PAS levels (if you even can), situations always arise where they aren't adequate. This is especially true when riding with others and try to sync speeds. You can dial in any speed you want with this rig and the parts cost less than $20.

 

[PCeBiker]

I've been using the above scheme of mine for 2 years now and I find I rarely use PAS anymore.

I didn't even hook up my PAS sensor to my new controller.
That's how convinced I am that PAS sucks and I'm never going to use it.

 

[PCeBiker]

I've been using the above scheme of mine for 2 years now and I find I rarely use PAS anymore.

I just realized that that is your schematic...

I've found out that you don't need to separately power the potentiometer with batteries.

The +5V supplied by the controller can run it.
I've got both my quick thumb throttle and my twist throttle hooked up in parallel.



Which ever throttle is set the highest, overrides the other.

I can have my thumb throttle set to my cruise speed (I replaced the spring in the throttle with a rubber washer, so it stays where I put it) then hit the twist throttle and the bike will speed up.
When I release the twist throttle, the speed goes back to the thumb throttle speed setting.
It works just like cruise control on a car.

I was running it with my Das-Kit Controller at the time, but I'm almost positive that it doesn't matter what ebike it would be installed on.
The +5V and hall sensor throttle is standard.

The connector is a standard 3 pin connector, but the pin configuration may be different and of course Das-Kit decided to swap the male and female plugs to make things difficult.

 

[Nvreloader]

As a follow up to this post and the results obtained,
I got the left hand Bafang half twist throttle, since I use/run inside the handle bar mirrors, on both sides, I had to use the proper sized drill bit on open the left hand side grip end to fit the mirror attachment.

Installed the 1/2 throttle twist and pushed the long end part tight up against the throttle band and tighten down the mirror on the inside of the handle bar.
I took the bike for a ride and FOUND out that I had TOO MUCH pressure on the twist part of the throttle, it would NOT return to the zero speed setting.

This worked perfectly, as the friction between these parts held the speed set by the twist part, rough wash boarded roads conditions did not move the throttle settings, in the slightest way.

I can set what ever speed I want or need with any Eco/Sport settings when and where ever I ride now, and if I need to slow down/stop, I just lightly grab the brake levers, and when the brake is released the speed goes back to the setting.

And as a added benefit, the mileage improved by reducing the power spikes etc.
I am tickled Pink by this conversion, Thanks 6Z.

Now I have to figure out the Chain ring gearing to reduce the top speeds a little bit.
Your thoughts and suggestion............
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

Cool .
That worked out well.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
And the nice thing is that the twist top section can be moved down the handle bar
towards the long end if the tension goes slack, or you need more or lighter tensions.
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

The only issue that I can think of with your throttle is that it locks in a power setting, not a speed setting, but so what.
I had a throttle lock on my motorcycle and I would have to keep adjusting it to keep my speed constant uphill, downhill, upwind, downwind, but that doesn't matter on an ebike.
A consistent power output is more important on an ebike, especially your ebike where a power spike will shut down your battery.

I never thought about fuel consumption on my motorcycle, but everybody thinks about that on an ebike, and every little bit helps.

In an effort to idiot proof your throttle/ebike.
See what happens if you turn on your ebike and the throttle is on.

You don't want your ebike taking off when you turn it on if your throttle got bumped.

My Das-Kit programming knew that there was something wrong and didn't "obey" the throttle when I turned on my ebike.

 

[PCeBiker]

How does it feel to have your throttle on the left?
Do you feel European?

I had my full twist throttle on the right and it was a PITA.
When the road was rough, I would have to grab the handlebars tight to keep control and the throttle was bouncing around and the power was too.
A half twist (like the ½ twist shifter on my mountain bike) allowed me to grab the outside of the handlebar to grip hard without changing gears.

I'm used to the throttle being on the right, and luckily I haven't ridden a motorcycle in decades, so I'm used to the front brake being on the left now, so my muscle memory grabs the correct brake when shyte happens real fast and you don't have time to think.

In a way, I have part of my throttle on the left where the buttons are, (to set the cruise control), but it is so different that I have to think and I'm slowly getting used to it and committing it to muscle memory/instinct/reaction.

This is my new thumb throttle.
It's tucked in nicely between the brake lever and shifter levers and is well protected from accidents.
I have to reach in and push the throttle around and up though, but I'm getting used to it.



This is my left handlebar.
I had to butcher the end of my handlebar grip to fit my mirror too. I could have installed the mirror on the other side of the grip, but I couldn't see past my shoulder.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
I don't have any problems with the throttle on the left side, I had to move it there because I was Full up, on the right, both shifters are on that side.
I am not worried about the power being turned on as I have a habit of going to the "O" setting when off the bike and parking it, I always grab the brake levers out of force of habit when touching the bike on or off it.
I still drive a manual PU, so I have been conditioned to go thru a set procedure when parking or leaving the vehicle, Old Habits die hard...........LOL

I'll test the on setting when turning the bike on/off, just so I know.
Thanks,
Don

 

[Nvreloader]

I am thinking real hard on changing the main ring gear (44T) to a 48T to 50T,
to see if I can get a slightly slower pedal speeds, when/for rough trail riding.

Question for you,
Since I don't use the 11 thru 14T gears, can I remove them and bring the larger gears down to a more center line for the main ring gear?
I mainly use the 15T-16T-17T for flat road riding (10-15 mph max),
and the rest of the gears up to the 34T gear for 95% of my trail riding.

Is the 48T to 50T chain ring gearing going to make that much of a difference
(speed wise) when using the 15T thru 34T gear cluster, as compared to the 44T ring gear now?

Your thoughts and suggestions..............
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

Using your 11 thru 14T rear sprockets will slow down your cadence/pedal speed.
Is there a reason that you aren't using them?

 

[PCeBiker]

I don't pay attention to what gear I'm in when I'm riding.
I just change gears to keep my cadence comfortable. When I run out of gears, I can feel the shifter levers bottom out then I know that I've run out of gears.

I have only run out of high speed gears (11T I think?) and I've never used my largest rear sprocket yet, so I was thinking of getting a larger front sprocket, but that will only allow me to slow down my cadence when I'm going faster than I'm supposed to go, so I'm just gonna leave it be.

 

[PCeBiker]

You might need to add a couple links to your chain if you put on a bigger chain ring to allow you to use the largest sprocket on the back.

 

[PCeBiker]

Since I am NOT sure about the motor temperatures/efficiency in the steps for the gear range, that would be the best, (I don't want to lug this motor down, or get it hot).
while attempting to keep the best distance and battery usage efficiency as possible,..

Your mid-drive motor is designed and geared to roughly match the average cadence of the rider.
If your legs are kinda over revving, then so is the motor.

The problems with heat start if you are going faster, pushing against the wind or going up hill. That's when the motor starts to slow down and draw more power, but so will the rider, so you'll be aware of the extra power being required.
And if you keep an eye on your Watt meter, you'll know when any heat might start to build.

 

[AHicks]

I wanted to prevent the need for using my 11t gear - as it's so well known to wear and cause a lot of chain wear, especially on the Bafang big blocks. I was not using the larger gears (1st -3rd) at all in my normal riding, if ever. Sooo, I installed a 50t ring gear to replace my 46t. Mission accomplished. 11t is still there if/when I need it, but it is now only rarely used (kinda like 1st through 3rd). 1500 miles on my original chain and it's still easily within specs.

Put another way, prior to changing ring gears I was using gears 4 though 9 (of 9) for a total of 6 of the 9 gears. After the change to the 50t ring gear, my normal riding/usage STILL uses 6 of the 9 gears, but now I'm using gears 3 through 8. 9th gear, the 11t, is still available, but no longer commonly used. Note that with my switch to the 50t gear, my bike did not need a longer chain, or even adjusting.

Last thought, the ring gear is so easily changed, that makes it a valuable tool to help dial that bike in to exactly what you need to put a smile on your face. I say, go ahead and do some experimenting - just make sure you have the clearance you need for the bigger gear. -Al

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm almost always on my 11T gear.
I just use my throttle to get going then hit cruise control but that was always at 32kph where my cadence was too fast so I didn't pedal.
I'm not wear nothing out. Lol

Hopefully with my new controller and easily adjustable cruise control, I'll set the speed a little slower so that I can pedal comfortably.

I do want to get some exercise.
I don't want want to fall asleep at the wheel. Lol