Bafang Ultra "Smooth" tune by Mike at Frey

I'm not sure I'm quite following you, but some things to check for off the top of my head: Check that the setting for designated assist on Throttle page is set to 9. Drop your limited current on the basic page from 30 to 28, make sure pedal settings are set to "by displays command" for Designated Assist and Speed Limit.
Also, check the Eggrider display settings that battery voltage is properly set up. You may be reaching voltage, current or speed cutoffs, have bad settings, or have a damaged controller or sensor.

I recommend posting your questions to the Eggrider Facebook Group and, since your bike is new, contacting the seller to see what they have to say.
Sorry if my explanation is not clear. I'm basicaly saying my motor is not working the way it is expected to.
After some investigation, I noticed my motors controller is a 48V version when I bought a 52V one. I've reached out the my motors supplier hoping they have a solution.

Do any of you have a 52v .bin firmware that I could use to flash to the correct voltage? For info, my research leaves me to believe that there is not difference between a 48V and 52V controller apart from the firmware. (info for people reading my post.)
 
I've been wondering about that: I didn't see any mention of swapping MOSFETs or capacitors, for the few 52V m620 ebikes I've seen hawked... Would be great to get confirmation that battery + firmware flash are all that's actually required to move from 48V to 52V? (m620s seem to run cooler at same RPMs, on 52V?)

Personally, 48V@30A is enough to move my huge self pretty well (only our resident speed demon is pushing for a 60V upgrade) & the only reason I actually want a 14s6p pack (with controller's low voltage cutoff set to 46V), is just for the steady performance a higher nominal battery Voltage would supply. 6p is great, but with 13s, any voltage sag feels noticable for the power hungry m620; I think it wants no less than 48V!

Of course, I'd be keen to see evidence of a firmware update for the MinCurrent:KeepCurrent issue which still seems to preclude proper decay calibration, but I don't know whether Bafang cares about UART customers anymore?
 
I've been wondering about that: I didn't see any mention of swapping MOSFETs or capacitors, for the few 52V m620 ebikes I've seen hawked... Would be great to get confirmation that battery + firmware flash are all that's actually required to move from 48V to 52V? (m620s seem to run cooler at same RPMs, on 52V?)

Personally, 48V@30A is enough to move my huge self pretty well (only our resident speed demon is pushing for a 60V upgrade) & the only reason I actually want a 14s6p pack (with controller's low voltage cutoff set to 46V), is just for the steady performance a higher nominal battery Voltage would supply. 6p is great, but with 13s, any voltage sag feels noticable for the power hungry m620; I think it wants no less than 48V!

Of course, I'd be keen to see evidence of a firmware update for the MinCurrent:KeepCurrent issue which still seems to preclude proper decay calibration, but I don't know whether Bafang cares about UART customers anymore?

Safe be we've been shuffled out of sight..... I wouldn't expect much from Bafang when it comes to the M620, let alone the UART version....
 
I don't know whether Bafang cares about UART customers anymore?
Bafang is a success despite their best efforts to alienate their resellers in the DIY world. Absolutely the most obstinant and worst communication of any product maker we dealt with. The motors I love from the company I despise.
 
I posted this to @AHicks hoping he'd see it and comment. I'm a complete dullard regarding the M series. I didn't follow up and confirm the M620 is included. Mea culpa...

E-bike setting wheel diameter and releasing speed limit programming line specially BAFANG M600 M510 CAN protocol motor​

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804205574571.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
That's been out for a while Tom, a couple of months anyway. Not real interesting as it's limited to just those 2 functions (speed and wheel diameter) to my understanding. Going to need to be quite a bit more capable to get my attention....

Haven't read many reviews (one way or the other) regarding it either. -Al
 
That's been out for a while Tom, a couple of months anyway. Not real interesting as it's limited to just those 2 functions (speed and wheel diameter) to my understanding. Going to need to be quite a bit more capable to get my attention....

Haven't read many reviews (one way or the other) regarding it either. -Al
I’m slow, especially with a low interest motor series. All good Al. I suspect others don’t keep up as well as you. So I shared.
 
Rich configurability in their UART controllers, was one of the biggest advantages to building a Bafang-based ebike.

The super basic two-slider adjustment, offered to some dealers via the BESST tool, doesn't come close to the old typo-laden Bafang Config Tool.

Lack of technical research among resellers, plus a booming market, have let Bafang sell plenty of locked out CANBus units so far... but unlocked controllers do exist, & with the right configurations those controllers can feel much more responsive than Bafang's controller at the same wattages. Plus, there are other motor makers altogether.

Not that CANBus itself is a mistake; but I think using it to restrict configurability is a huge mistake.

I feel Bafang is discarding a lot of existing customer base and potential market share, to comply with badly phrased regulations their competitors are just sidestepping anyway.

Honestly, I almost wonder if the controller department decided to sabotage the motor department? "They priced controllers from another group in our district? Switch all our production to lock them out!" 👺

Regardless why they did it, it feels like it's bound to have a disproportionately negative impact on their future market share... Still hoping to see some custom firmwares!
 
My take is he took the Smooth tune and made it worse. He links to the Smooth tune, but apparently didn’t understand what is said there.
 
I think he's got some good notes - BUT - I STILL say start with the "Smooth" tune, and ride it for a bit. At least 100 miles. At that point, pause mid point on a ride when you're in no hurry, clear your mind, and ask yourself if there's something in the way that motor is running that's not working out well for you. If so, look into how that might be changed....
 
What do you think of his non-linear power levels? He went for a 37% increase of each level over the previous instead of fixed increments.
The aftermarket KT controllers do the same thing. You use a couple of different parameters to set the power for PAS 1, then a built in algorithm assigns non-linear values to PAS levels 2-4, with 5 being all you've got. From a note I took a while back. No idea of the source.
1, 13%.
2, 20%.
3, 33%.
4, 50%.
5, 100%.
Clearly the emphasis is towards the lower speeds, which after all the riding I've done, makes a TON of sense for MY purposes....

I don't see why non-linear values wouldn't work fine if you want to go to the trouble. Personal call....
 
The aftermarket KT controllers do the same thing. You use a couple of different parameters to set the power for PAS 1, then a built in algorithm assigns non-linear values to PAS levels 2-4, with 5 being all you've got. From a note I took a while back. No idea of the source.
1, 13%.
2, 20%.
3, 33%.
4, 50%.
5, 100%.
Clearly the emphasis is towards the lower speeds, which after all the riding I've done, makes a TON of sense for MY purposes....

I don't see why non-linear values wouldn't work fine if you want to go to the trouble. Personal call....
I totally agree.
Set the parameters to your needs and how you use it, not what looks neat on paper.

My settings with small changes in speed and with more power at the low end to mid where I need it.
PAS 7, 8 are like overdrive at higher cadence/speed with no lurches or ghost pedaling.
9 is mostly to facilitate full power for the throttle
Screenshot_20221224-095110_Chrome.jpg

*These are BBS02B settings, not Ultra or Frey Smooth.. but the point being if it's not doing what you want, forget about linear. All to common mistake (in my mind) with the BBS*s too.
 
I definitely find a non-linear increase in power output, to be absolutely essential for smoothly scaling response.

One of the main things I prize about the UART configurable m620 motor+controllers, is the ability to adjust a lot more than just raw percentile of output:

Being able to set different torque response settings & different decay rates, for different speed ranges, makes so much difference in ride quality, that I honestly don't think I'll ever want a motor system without that.
 
Here is another Ultra M620 tune,
for the guys that understand these things,

Your thoughts and suggestions..........
Tia,
Don
So, coming back to this my question comes down to the "Delta Voltage" settings on the Torque tab.

The Frey "Smooth" setting does not change these from the defaults (0-5Kg is 900, 5-10 is 500, 10-15 is 300, 20-30&30-40 are 200, and 50-60 are 100). But the "Beast" fellow does change those values to start at only 400, then 395, 390, 385, 380, 375, 370, and 365.

I've ready the explanations from Frey and Beast-guy many times over now, but can't really make head or tails of it. Can anyone help me understand, and why didn't Mike at Frey change these?


So, the above it totally wrong, which is why I've crossed it out. See my other thread in this forum for what I believe is the correct interpretation of Delta Voltage.
 
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So, coming back to this my question comes down to the "Delta Voltage" settings on the Torque tab.

The Frey "Smooth" setting does not change these from the defaults (0-5Kg is 900, 5-10 is 500, 10-15 is 300, 20-30&30-40 are 200, and 50-60 are 100). But the "Beast" fellow does change those values to start at only 400, then 395, 390, 385, 380, 375, 370, and 365.

I've ready the explanations from Frey and Beast-guy many times over now, but can't really make head or tails of it. Can anyone help me understand, and why didn't Mike at Frey change these?
Not going to pretend I understand it any better than you do, but I do have 2 thoughts. Maybe you've considered them already yourself.

1st, it's clear to me the understanding of all the locked up potential for this motor is an evolving issue. It's just going to keep getting better and better to my way of thinking. That's a damn shame as we know Bafang has already turned their back on this project, and they're not likely going to return....

Second, lacking the ability of keeping all of the involved variables/bits wrapped up in a single thought train I can act on effectively, when I SEE/read about a new idea like you're thinking of, I may mull it around a bit, but then I'm likely to just try it, to see if it works better or worse than what I have - with MY riding priorities in mind. -Al
 
The answer to your question about smooth tune in details.
Delta Voltage is voltage output by "Load Cell" or "torque sensor" minus base voltage. It's called Delta, because it's a fixed span. Say your load cell output 800mV as base line without load. With 10Kg load it will generate 1800mV. The Delta Voltage is 1000mV.
Delta Voltage VS KG table looks like this in order to make ride more natural. As you pedal light, it gives you more accurate/precise control over motor assist. As you press harder to get more power it become progressively more sensitive (more power per unit of pedal pressure). But, as you start to apply lot's of pressure on pedals, system become aggressive with smaller voltage variation generating a lot more power assist.
If you struggle to get the concept, just reprogram controller in reverse settings where 100mV Delta Voltage will be 0-5kg setting. You will get in idea, just wear helmet :)

This is actually similar to the car's accelerator pedals. OEM's tune them to be progressive, so car drive smoothly, less jerky on minor pedal input. Otherwise Porsche GTS will spin the wheels every time you accidently slightly tap accelerator :)
Hi again. Could you explain this again? What I see from the smooth settings is that Delta decreases as force goes up. Maybe if you threw in a couple real world examples, one at low pedal pressure and one at high, with the settings you prefer, that would help me.

Sorry to be slow in understanding this, but I am really trying here.
 
OK, thought it would be useful to compare all the different settings recommendations in one place, so I build a spreadsheet.
I'm using these 6 sources:
1) Luna controller for their Apollo bike, which raises the current limit from 30 amps to 35 amps. Since the 52 volt battery actually starts at over 58 volts when fully charged, that's how they get their 2,000 watt number (58*35=2030), although it should be noted that the controller portion of the motor housing has a 1300 watt label (compared to the 1000 watt label on the usual 52 volt motor), so that's some kind of peak thing. I took the settings off of my EggRider after getting a fresh controller from them just a couple days ago. Note that Luna's settings for Sport/Off-Road were different than for Eco/Road on the Pedal and Throttle tabs, but the same on Basic and Torque tabs.
2) Bixtrix stock setting from: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/ultra-bikes-pas.31734/post-251595
3) eBikeaholic from his video, screen grabbed at: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/ultra-bikes-pas.31734/#post-250411
4) Mike/Frey "Smooth" setting at: http://frey-bafang.patransformers.com/2020/10/09/bafang-ultra-programming/
5) Prophet Zarquon's settings at https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...53-bafang-ultra-drive-programming?view=stream
6) And that latest, EveryAmp's settings at: https://everyamp.com/bafang-ultra-m620-programming/
The EveryAmp guy changed his initial post when FordPrefect pointed him at #4 and #5.

I've not included some rows where everyone agreed, and the order of rows is from EggRider, which is different than the Windows Programming tool.

BASICLuna SportLuna EcoFrey SmoothProphet ZarquonEveryAmp
Assist 00 & 01 & 10 & 1001 & 1001 & 1
Assist 130 & 100?15 & 1007 & 1008 & 100
Assist 235 & 100?20 & 10013 & 10011 & 100
Assist 340 & 100?30 & 10028 & 10015 & 100
Assist 445 & 100?45 & 10034 & 10021 & 100
Assist 555 & 100?55 & 10039 & 10041 & 100
Assist 660 & 100?60 & 10055 & 10039 & 100
Assist 770 & 100?70 & 10068 & 10053 & 100
Assist 880 & 100?80 & 10084 & 10073 & 100
Assist 9100 & 100100 & 100100 & 100100 & 100100 & 100

PEDAL ASSISTLuna SportLuna EcoFrey SmoothProphet ZarquonEveryAmp
Start Current %3030111
Keep Current %30301001002
Slow-Start Mode55474
Startup Degree42222
Work Mode1010101010
Time of Stop202520204
Current Decay46644
Stop Decay01010200

THROTTLELuna SportLuna EcoFrey SmoothProphet ZarquonEveryAmp
Speed Limit4040<Missing>Display Command32
Start Current %89<Missing>51
Start Voltage1215
<Missing>
1512
End Voltage3838
<Missing>
3535

And now onto the Torque page. I found it interesting that only Prophet Zarquon figured out what the Base Voltage should be, with a really good explanation, which is that it's the motor controller's draw when you're not putting any pressure on the pedals. You can get this value from the live section of both the Windows app and EggRider. The Prophet suggests adding 1 or 2 to the value you read. On our two Apollos, I read 752 from one and 757 from another. Zarquon claims that a value of "0" is as it comes from the factory, meaning no calibration was done. Note that only Luna and Frey as OEMs seemed to have bothered, both putting in a placeholder 740.

TORQUELunaBixtrixeBikeaholicFrey SmoothProphet ZarquonEveryAmp
Base Voltage74000740752740
0 Speed Boost Time120120120060120
Delta 0-5Kg200200200900207400
Delta 5-10Kg200200200500207395
Delta 10-15 Kg200200200300207390
Delta 15-20Kg200200200200207385
Delta 20-30Kg400400400200415380
Delta 30-40Kg400400400200415375
Delta 40-50Kg400400400100415370
Delta 50-60Kg400400400100415365
Start Kg (if same for all Spd's, just one value)120,16,12,10,8,620,16,8,6,0,0113,11,8,4,2,13
Full Kg50,45,40,30,20,1550,45,40,35,30,2550,40,30,25,2060,50,40,30,20,1550,30,15,10,5,260,55,50,45,40,35
Return Kg512,9,6,5,4,40012,9,6,5,2,15
Min Cur %510,10,15,15,10,1020,40,60,80,100,10001,15,30,30,30,301
Max Cur %10010010010010020,100,100,100,100,100
Keep Cur %54,4,3,3,2,220,40,60,80,100,10052,15,30,30,30,301
Cur Decay43,3,3,2,2,220,40,60,80,100,10042,2,3,4,4,42
Start Degree111111


As you can see, the Basic, Pedal and Throttle pages are pretty straightforward and you can choose how aggressive you want to be logically. Note despite its more power motor/controller, Luna's stock Basic (PAS) settings are very aggressive and you can tell this when you ride - it's so much power for not much pedal effort. It's like having a throttle on your pedals. I like to get a workout when I ride - I just want the motor to a) overcome the additional weight, b) help me up hills or into the wind, c) help me go further on my trips. I want exercise at low PAS levels - I can always raise them if I get lazy during the ride.

The Torque page has quite a number of disagreements:
1) The whole Delta Voltage thing is confusing. I tend to favor Mike/Frey's settings, since he's the only one who tries to explain what they are, even if he does so poorly that I can't really understand. Then again, he's also the only one that has a decreasing set of values for increasing pedal pressures - just about everyone else, whether stock or even Zarquon, groups them into two ranges that increase with increasing pedal pressure. EveryAmp started with Mike/Frey's settings but doesn't explain how he arrived at his values.

Here's Mike/Frey's summary of Delta Voltage:
Delta Voltage: This is voltage SPAN in millivolts that program use to calculate load applied to pedals. For example, for the first 200mV load cell output, program will calculate as 0-5Kg load. If you are to change 200mV to 400mV, software will now calculate load of 0-5Kg over first 400mV. This is good instrument to manipulate sensitivity of the pedal assist. From linear to progressive or any other.
Using Mike/Frey's values of 900mV for the 0-5Kg and 500mV for the 5-10Kg, I think he's saying that if you apply 7.5Kg of pedal force, the voltage will increase by 1150mV. That's calculated as 900mV from the first 5Kg plus half of the 5-10Kg range of 500. If I'm correct in my interpretation, then Mike/Frey's setting give you more boost initially, but less boost with increasing pedal pressure.

Mike/Frey further says about Delta Voltage:
This is relationship between load cell that read rider input in form of pedal pressure applied to voltage system translate this into. Delta Voltage also tied up to the range/output voltage span of load cell. If you activate “Continuous Get’ function, position bike pedals parallel to the ground and put all your weight on one pedal, you will get a reading in mV something like 3,260mV. This number less static base voltage output of the load cell of 750mV equals to about 2,500mV. This means, load cell output when you ride will be within this range.
In below Delta Voltage table you will find progressive relationship between Kg vs mV. This is done to allow rider to experience more natural and smooth assistance performance. 0-5Kg have a larger voltage span to allow for ‘ghost pedalling’ low assistance under very light pedal input. This is useful primarily when riding on pavement around town at speeds under 20Km/h. As rider increase pedal pressure, system will offer progressively more assistance. That will offer most natural feel, as human muscle is not very good in controlling force close to maximum loads.
I've read that first sentence probably a hundred times over the past couple of years and still don't understand it. I do understand when he says that full pedal pressure results in 3,260mV, and subtracting the (for him) 740mV Base Voltage gets you 2,520mV, so an effective 0mV to 2,520mV is your output range. But, what I don't understand "As rider increase pedal pressure, system will offer progressively more assistance." Actually, the way the values taper means that you get less additional assistance per Kg of pedal pressure as the pressures increase.

What I just figured out is that the stock settings are set to be linear across the entire range. The output values (mV) double from 200 to 400 only because the input range (Kg) doubles from 5Kg per range to 10Kg per range. So when Mike/Frey keeps the same 200mV output for the 15-20Kg range as for the 20-30Kg range, he's essentially halved the increase, which kinda mirrors what he did going from 900 to 500 on the first two ranges.

So, my summation is the Mike/Frey is trying to decrease the output as pedal pressure increases and somehow that feels better. And that EveryAmp doesn't understand this as his numbers add up to far more than the 3,260mV range which means he maxes things out before applying full pressure to the pedals.

2) Why does Prophet Zarquon have different Min Current % for different pedal cadences?

3) What does Current Decay actually do, and why is Zarquon different at different cadences?

Hope this is helpful. Let me know if there's another published setting I should include in the above tables.
 
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Just bumping the thread since I did a bunch of editing in the post above.

EDIT; I'm continuing my exploits in other threads here:

For starters.
 
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