Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
Kind'a looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.....
as the saying goes.
as the saying goes.
Kind'a looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.....
as the saying goes.
Yikes. For your typical hub motor, all you should be doing is take off the casing cover. Leave everything in one piece. Grease the teeth on the outer gear in the motor casing. Maybe thumb a little on the inside of the planetary to make sure the sun gear gets a dose. And then put it back together. No need to take anything apart.Put all the nuts bolts screws and washers back where they came from as soon as you get something apart so you don't lose it or forget where it goes.
No need to take anything apart.
Grease the teeth on the outer gear in the motor casing. Maybe thumb a little on the inside of the planetary to make sure the sun gear gets a dose. And then put it back together.
That freewheel is garbage. Throw it away and replace it with something that isn't going to rust out like that.
Don't worry about the lock ring tool. Thats for taking the freewheel apart once its off the bike.
DO NOT use grease on a freewheel internally
Instead.... use chain saw oil.
What you do is lay the freewheel at an angle on a workbench, inside side up. Then drip a drop of oil into the mechanism.
If you have if off the bike... it is disassembled.
I use the same cheap tool sometimes. They work fine on splined derailleurs.
The freewheel tool is fine. its the crank remover I would be afraid of. You strip threads on a crankarm and you are truly f**ked.
The park crankarm remover is only like $18 and a decent chain whip is maybe $10.
Pounding on the holes is not the way you remove the freewheel. Thats how you disassemble it.
Different thing entirely. There is no need to get inside that freewheel. You can wash the crud out of a removed freewheel with a proper solvent. The video I linked showed a guy doing it with WD40 blasts. Another way is to dip it into a solvent and dunk it repeatedly (or shish it around) after it sits in the tank for a while.
. Just buy another one. It'll be much better than the one you have, guaranteed, and it'll last without the kind of damage you have now.
here... 9 bucks and you get a whip with good leverage, a second freewheel tool and a cassette tool to boot.
And for once the Park crank puller is reasonably priced as these things go.
I have the Park chain whip and its $35 and its really long for great leverage... and it has an end on it that will fit over a cassette tool so it becomes a wrench handle... but its overkill. I bought it cuz I needed one when I was out of town and my tool was at my home shop so I took what I could get at the LBS.
Yeah sure the tool is strong. The alloy crankarms not so much. The steel threads of the tool can pull right thru the arms when you get serious about the pulling part and the arms are cheapies.Huh, I wouldn't have thunk that?
I am aware of seized crank arms and figured the tool would be at least as strong as the alloy crank arm with its tiny threads?
Take a look at that chain whip you gave us a picture of. It looks designed to make a half-ass job like that more difficult. And think for a second of the actual process. With one hand, you keep a crescent wrench steady on that little freewheel tool, and twist. With the other hand you hold the chain whip tight against the freewheel teeth. All while holding the wheel steady. Andyou want to also dik around with a cheater bar instead of buying an $8 tool?...maybe a longer chain whip, but I could just put a cheater bar on my chain whip?
The penetrating fluid bath is the way to go. For the job, you want the motor cover attached to the wheel. You need the leverage of the whole wheel to keep it steady while your other two hands work the removal tool and the chain whip.Mine is soaking in penetrating oil now to help free it up.
I'll try removing it tomorrow.
I would not trust AliExpress to sell you a genuine article. ESPECIALLY a cheap part that is so widely substituted. I have even seen counterfeits with slightly mispelled brand names: "Shinano". For reals. Plus you could see one thing in the picture and then get something else. Ali is a great source for domestically produced stuff that you can get inexpensively thanks to no Western brand name.I did find a Shimano version of my freewheel on AliExpress,..
There is still risk buying on Amazon but nowhere near as much....there's similar items on Amazon.ca
You should bolt the motor cover back on (fully tight given the force you are about to put it thru), then use a chain whip to steady the freewheel, and a freewheel tool+wrench to unscrew it from the motor.So just to be clear,.. I shouldn't need any of those tools to remove and clean up my freewheel right?
By the way, as 7s freewheels go, DNP / Drift Maniac is the other quality option.
I am not certain but you may need the DNP removal tool, which is also sold on that link.
Well we all know where WattWagon is now.
This job is well within your 35lb limit.
Flip the bike upside down as that's the easiest way to remove the motor anyway. Just make sure you put the end of the handlebars up on blocks to give the display clearance from the floor or just remove the display all together.
Get yourself a Chainring Socket
And a Crank Puller
The rest of the tools needed are a set of Allen keys and a Phillips screw driver.
Plenty of videos on YouTube... I'd watch a few of them to get different perspectives.