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Hey Merle,
I am pretty sure it will need grease cause the ones I have taken down sure did. Once again I can't recommend the cornhead grease highly enough over red lithium suggested in some places....
Get your bike upside down which may involving rotating the screen or other tender parts on the bars? Remove the drive side crank. Have a 16pt tool ready to take off the spider lockring, left hand thread remember, and remove it and the spider.
Remove the plastic cover on the non drive side. This is the touchiest part of the operation surprisingly. Mine had little 3 little phillips screws holding it on but Ray's had small torx ones so be prepared for either I guess? After removing the plastic cover the 13mm nyloc nuts are exposed. Remove those bolts completely, you may have to poke them out as they are in there pretty tight.
Now the motor is free and you can sort of flip it up to remove the wire connections which all have little safety tabs on them at the bottome. With the motor completely free take it to the bench and remove the allen bolts that hold the halves together and carefully split the case so that the gasket is preserved and easy enough to do.
All is now exposed and I took any and all grease that was in there out and replaced with a few tablespoons of the CH grease. Really doesn't take a whole lot I feel but enough to coat the gear surfaces. Won't make the motor silent but does quiet it down a lot and a greased gear is a happy gear in general.
Then just work your way backwards. The one thing I suggest is that the plastic cover does go back on better when the bike is back upright. I struggled with this on my tear down leaving it upside down and on Ray's it went much better upright. It's a fussy deal though cause the screws are small and lining up the holes is kind of a pain.
That should help,"
Copied from generous JRA private message to me.
