Bafang RM G062 - 1000W 3D Models / Design Modifications

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USA
I will try to keep everything here as I go through this project.
My main goal is to re design the G062 to be Liquid Cooled.
I have the stock Bafang Case Modeled. If anyone needs any info on it let me know.

DISK-SIDE-CVR-BEARING-SIDE.png

DISK-SIDE-CVR-SEAL-SIDE.png

DISK-SIDE-CVR-SECTION.png
 
Does your have the small magnets in those holes, because quite a few of mine dropped out in extreme use, I found one stuck in the grease on top of a nylon cog.
I remove them all now just in case.
 
Yes the little holes are magnets. I believe there used to read the speed if your using a stock bafang controller?
Your not running stock so you don't need them. I have a VESC coming instead of a controller. It is supposed to put out impressive power.
 
A little more info.

The Bearing is Part# 6003RS or TIMKEN Part Number 6003-2RS
The Seal is TIMKEN Part Number 481481
I would use quality bearings and seals like Timken.

The 5 Case Screws are M4 by 10mm length under the head. I'm going to use high quality Stainless Steel Screws.

Ok I know pretty pictures are nice.
I'm gonna do you guys one better. I was debating on weather or not I was going to do this but I decided to put the files in a Viewer.
With the Autodesk Viewer you can spin the part around, get measurements, ect. Play with the tools on the bottom of the screen to see what you can do.
Hold the shift key + mouse wheel down then drag the mouse to spin things around.

Here is the link to the Disk-Side-Motor-Cover. This is in the online viewer. Click the link and it will take you to the part.



Even better than that I will upload the files.
You can download them and use in your own CAD Software.
.IPT is native Autodesk Inventor File and the .STEP is universal.

.IPT file

.STEP file

Now all you engineers out there lets work together and design the most awesome motor possible!
Happy Memorial Day

I am starting on the shaft and the stator now. should be done today.
 
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no disrespect,seems like you are reinventing the wheel and violating the 95%-50% rule,enjoy if it is your thing and tell us if the improvements are really worthwhile.
 
This is my hobby and this is what I do for fun.
I am a Mechanical Engineer / CNC Programmer-Machinist.
So I have access to all the tools required and the knowledge to use them.

Why not? Why not make improvements and Test stuff. I don't want to just ride. I want to know how every part of my bike and my motor work.
I take apart everything. Always have always will.

Not sure what rule your talking about.
I do plan to re-use as many stock components as possible. Modifications to some parts will be required. Some parts will have to be made.

Not many things are available in the US for these bikes. Most of the stuff comes from China. I would like to see more aftermarket parts.

If you are happy with what you have then there is absolutely no need to change anything.

But there are some people who like to see how much they can get out of these motors.
I'm curious to see what I can get out of it.

My stock bike stock from the factory other than tires and a battery (the same voltage as stock) will ride at 25 MPH pretty consistently.
It will hit 27.2 MPH but then the Motor Voltage becomes higher than the Battery Voltage. It almost hesitates for a second and then spins free and then hesitates and so on.
So for stock that is pretty good from a lot of what other bikes do.
It will go about 18 to 20 on a steeper incline. I want to be able to maintain speed up hills.

The nylon gears are a problem. They need to be better. The clutch is a problem it needs to be better, I want regen so I need a solid clutch.
The whole thing is only as strong as the weakest link. I want to eliminate that link.
I have to commute about 40 miles each day to work and back on my bike soon.
Everything needs to be super solid. I don't want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere 10 miles from home.

So there are some valid reasons to do this. To this extent, maybe not. But like I said Why Not.
At least I am generous enough to share the work that I do.
 

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Why are the nylon gears a problem? Is there a history of failure (trick question I already know the answer is no :) )? I've been using the G060 - the predecessor to this motor - and it has never had an issue either with heat or gear failure across about 7000 miles on one bike (I use them on three. Four if you count one I gave to a friend). Always have used 52v batteries and controllers that peak at 35a. I also know they have been used with complete success on 60v/35a systems which yield a 40 mph cruising speed. Same deal no failures. The latter is a fairly common kit sold at electrobikeworld for the last several years. They've also been run with custom Lyen controllers that sustain 2000w output.

I am a project guy myself so I get the desire to disassemble and tinker, but it seems you are solving a problem that - in factory-stock and hot-rod use - doesn't exist. Doesn't mean you shouldn't go ahead and enjoy yourself though.
 
Well I have read a fair amount of post where people have trashed the nylon gears and the clutch. But for sure you have to be pushing it.
If your running 48v or 52v I believe there is no problems.

I don't want to go steel on steel because of noise so I ordered a set of Copper Gears.
I don't know what I will end up pushing through this motor. Maybe 90 Amps @ 110 Volts.
At that level of power people destroy the gears and the Shear Keys.
So I am getting ahead of the game and upgrading before I even try it.

The only way I have seen anyone use REGEN is by welding the clutch solid.
I prefer to machine a nice new solid clutch. So why not upgrade to stronger gears?

As far as history of failures it has happened. Maybe it is more common in Mid Drives though.
See Here.

 
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So lets talk about the gears.

The drive gear on the rotor is 18T.
The 3 spur gears on the clutch are 36T
The Large gear in the Wheel Hub is 90T

The overall gear ratio is 5:1.
The motor makes 5 revolutions per 1 revolution of the Wheel.

I am shifting gears....LOL and switching to model the gears. I will finish up the stator later.
You got me going on gears now.
I'm sure we can find something close to what we need, a standard gear that's easy to source that we can modify to fit the clutch.
That's what i hope anyway.
 
These are the gears I ordered.
I think there a good replacement.

PhotoShot_1716838518744.jpeg


They should be a direct drop in. I'm pretty sure. I have to measure the stock gears when I get home. I'm at a memorial day picnic right now. But I did already order 2 sets of these. It takes a couple weeks to get here.

Nope its a No Go. The gears I have are 1.875" Diameter.
.525" thick.
.3125 Diameter Bore.
Shoot I was hopeing those would fit.
 
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This is the gear size that is in the G062-1000W.
It is a little thinner but it would work. Any gears to this specification will fit.
The Modulus is 1.25 and 36 teeth.


Could defiantly make this one work.

Looks like were gonna be going steel though.

Unless we go here but it won't be cheap unless a bunch of us ordered them.

This is the Design Criteria For the Gears.

Gear-Technical.png


gear strengths.png

gear-strength-2.png


gear-strength-3.png


Well we have all the data we need to manufacture a really really good gear.
I'm thinking to use this Peek Material. It's Carbon Filled.

HONYPLAS PEEK tube is a semi-crystalline,show high stiffness and hardness. and an unique high tensile strength and fatiue strength,Resistant to high-engery radiation.High abrasion and wear resistant.Good electrical insulator even at high voltages,and is characterised mainly by its very good mechanical properties and exceptional dimensional stability even continous operation at high temperatures of up to 250°C.





Item: Carbon Fiber Filled PEEK tube CA30 PEEK

Material: PEEK, PEEK+GF, PEEK+CF, PEEK HPV

Working temperature: 260-340 degree

Color: natural, black, yellow rice

Density: 1.40g/cm3 (the actual density is subjected to the final confirm)

Tolerence: +/-0.1-0.5mm, according to different sizes

Sizes available:

Diameter: 5,6,8,10,12,15,16,18,20,25,30,40,50,75,80,90,100,120,140,150mm; special sizes can be cut as requirement.

Length: standard-1m, or some short pieces

Properties:
Working temperature: 260-340 centigrade
Flame retadant: V-0
Good toughness and rigidity,
high hardness,excellent wear resistance.
good insulation, anti-ydrolysis,radiation-resistant

It's gonna be a little work to machine them but its really the best way.
 
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if you want regen and high speed,go to a dd motor,pushing more votage and amps will surely give this ecycle the speed you crave(no gears to worry about either,btw brake upgrade in order) otherwise keep on tinkering money knows no home.
 
Yea money. I've dumped a lot of it lately.
I like the Bafang. From what I see the quality is pretty good.
Far as I know direct drive hubs are a lot bigger.

Anyway I have the Bafang and I have the controller + a Eggrider and also I have a Tronix 250R VESC on the way.
It is supposed to put out a lot.
  • Up to 250 Phase amps peak (300 peak, cooling required)
  • Up to 120 Battery amps max
  • 8S - 24S Battery (up to 100.8V fully charged)
I am doing this for the fun of it. And maybe I'll make some extra parts so if someone wants to replicate my setup they can.
It's something for me to do besides watching TV. Yea it definitely cost some dough to play with these things though.
 
Yea money. I've dumped a lot of it lately.
I like the Bafang. From what I see the quality is pretty good.
Far as I know direct drive hubs are a lot bigger.

Anyway I have the Bafang and I have the controller + a Eggrider and also I have a Tronix 250R VESC on the way.
It is supposed to put out a lot.
  • Up to 250 Phase amps peak (300 peak, cooling required)
  • Up to 120 Battery amps max
  • 8S - 24S Battery (up to 100.8V fully charged)
I am doing this for the fun of it. And maybe I'll make some extra parts so if someone wants to replicate my setup they can.
It's something for me to do besides watching TV. Yea it definitely cost some dough to play with these things though.
burn rubber! i am ashamed to state how much money i have thrown away over the past 4 years on this expensive but satisfying hobby( always excited when the boxes arrive) oth probably not as much as one good very high end ebike cost,glad to see the prices coming down on some of these things if ever again i am going for light weight and pratical range,bon voyage!
 
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