Bafang 750 Watt, Integrated Wheel, Rear Hub Fat Bike Motor

[Bravesst]

Glad you're enjoying yourself. Rather mean spirited, don't you think?

I don't plan on learning anything in 5 minutes. I've taken my time with this, done lots and lots of reading. What happened to the motor was beyond my control. I'm no closer to knowing how to identify what let go, and don't see any way to get closer. If I can replace just the guts of the motor, let's just assume it's done and replace it.

What else could it be if both set ups (old controller / new controller) produce the same result?

Here's my motor. Not sure what it comes with.
BAFANG RM G0F0.750 MOTOR INTEGRATED WHEEL

Not sure about this one

Ebike Bafang 48V 750W Brushless Geared Hub Motor Fat Tire Rear Cassette 190mm for sale | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for Ebike Bafang 48V 750W Brushless Geared Hub Motor Fat Tire Rear Cassette 190mm. Shop with confidence.

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[Bravesst]

Not one to wait around, I got the rear wheel off, taking a close look at motor housing.
While I'm at this major overhaul, how hard would it be to change the rear cassette?

Next, I came across this. Star or Torx, security nut?

 

[AHicks]

I can answer the screw type for you. They're known as "tamper proof". It's very similar to a torx, but there's a hole in the center of the bit. I got mine from Harbor freight.

Never dealt with a cassette, but it shouldn't be hard to change. A snap ring maybe?

 

[harryS]

Two videos on checking Hall sensors. I would do this before opening a motor. Hall sensors are about the only thing you can kill in a motor during a bench test. You need huge currents and high heat to hurt the phase windings.
.

Another video. DIfferent motor, but here he uses a digital meter.

 

[Bravesst]

PLUS BIKES
*The price of BAFANG RM G0F0.750 Motor integrated wheel is $237 (includes two rims and motor).This one is integrated with the rim.If you just want to buy a motor, you can look at other types of motors on our website, there are different horsepower options. *
This option includes 2 rims and motor (same rims as originals).

Addmotor says I need the rim with motor ($450 with shipping includes one rim and motor), and it'll take a month before they ship it.
I asked if it's available alone, or replaceable, and she says NO, motor is ONLY available built into the rim for $450.

*Update on Addmotor, who now say they can do $250 motor only, trying to find out when that could ship.

So swapping out a motor is pretty straightforward?

@harryS
I was testing hall sensors when this happened. Thanks, I'll look at the video. If we find what's wrong is something to do with Hall sensors, will it be potentially repairable?

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WHAT DOES THIS TELL US?
If I hit the throttle, I get a wattage surge on the display, up to 400, for about 3 seconds, then it reverts to zero. The rear wheel DOES NOT move, UNLESS I rotate it in reverse first. Then, it'll jolt forward, spinning the wheel a few inches when I hit the throttle.

 

[AHicks]

No clue here on the wattage jump, but if you had not told us it was running previously, I would think your wire matching was not correct.

One of Bolton's videos shows him pulling a motor, to be replaced by the bigger one he sells. That should give you an idea of what's involved.

 

[Bravesst]

Just to update you guys, and let you know this has been quite the learning experience, and sometimes challenges like these bring on lots of growth. I remember when I was a young man and purchased my first very small house. A buddy of mine, a professional contractor, was going to help me extend it. We ripped off the back of the house on day one and immediately he got seriously injured at work (we were both New York City firefighters at the time), and the job was shut down! I had to learn fast, and I did. That extension still stands today.

Now, to put things in perspective, my rear wheel is off, with possible motor burn out. Before I bought this bike, I thought removing the rear hub would be a challenge! Now having the bike mechanically apart seems fairly simple.

I think I side with Harry about it having to be a Hall sensor being the potential problem. I am reading an article right now on changing them. The more I read, watch, the more I agree, I burned out one or more Hall sensors. Since the motor doesn't run, even with the original controller - which was never involved in any testing (guaranteed good).

Also, one of the retailers I found stock the motor / wheel integration I need, just trying to figure out how to get the new motor to perform, controller to use, etc.

 

[AHicks]

Agree, best guess is the sensor. Cheap by nature, and NOT willing to just throw parts at an issue like this one, I would prove that to myself (they are not hard to test!). Then I would see if I could source a replacement part.

The new controller you have will suit your motor just fine - once you get the wiring right - and you said you had that figured out at one point.

Deal with ONE PROBLEM AT A TIME! Everything at once is often overwhelming.....

 

[Bravesst]

I agree, on thing at a time. Reading an interesting article on testing / changing HALL sensors.

Electric Bike Hub Motor - How to Replace a Hall-effect Sensor

Electric Bike Hub Motor - How to Replace a Hall-effect Sensor: Brushless motors use electronic controllers instead of brush systems to control the timing and distribution of power to the motor. To do this, some controller systems use hall-effect sensors inside the hub, which track the motor's...

www.instructables.com

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IN THE MEANTIME
The new retailer I've been talking to says that my motor is capable of 50 kph. He says he can replace my motor integrated into the wheel for $240. He says it will work with my current controller. Unfortunately, the OLD controller was the whole issue for this job in the first place. I've asked him about motor / controller / display pricing. Waiting on a reply.

 

[Bravesst]

Tamper proof bits arrived, but I realized my bike tool kit only has a cassette removal tool, not a freewheel removal tool. In order to get at the motor the cog has to come off. Tool ordered.

Back and forth with Plus Ebike, and they have my set up (integrated motor) in stock, ready to ship. Just trying to decide what I need from them, while I try and bring this motor back to life. Replacement Hall sensors (if the right ones) should arrive this weekend too.

I still may get lucky here. If not, I'll order the new wheel with motor.

 

[Bravesst]

Trying to get this cog off, I believe it's a free wheel, and I got the right lockring tool, but it doesn't fit over the motor plug. I'm assuming the motor plug has to come off, and them be reconnected, any ideas?

Plus Ebike can supply me with everything I need to get this bike up and running, but I'd am still trying to salvage this motor, at least once I can get it out of the wheel.

 

[ExPatBrit]

Getting the freewheel off without the correct tool is a bear. There is a DNP tool with a 21mm center hole in it to allow for the plug and axle nut.

If you can't find one a lot of folks just slot the freewheel tool with a dremel.

When I switched my Rad to the big motor, I bought a new 11-34T Freewheel from Amazon for $30. 2 day shipping.

My motor showed up in a week, but I still don't have the freewheel tool.

 

[harryS]

With that larger connector, I don't think there are many free-wheel tools that fit. The Park FR1-3 had a 12 mm hole that would accept the smaller 9 pin connector, but not yours.

SOme owners with an abundance of steel cutting tools have bits that can enlarge the hole. One guy even cut the tool in half and put the two pieces into the freewheel.

I hadn't heard about the tool with a 21mm center hole.

 

[ExPatBrit]

With that larger connector, I don't think there are many free-wheel tools that fit. The Park FR1-3 had a 12 mm hole that would accept the smaller 9 pin connector, but not yours.

SOme owners with an abundance of steel cutting tools have bits that can enlarge the hole. One guy even cut the tool in half and put the two pieces into the freewheel.

I hadn't heard about the tool with a 21mm center hole.

You need a 17mm hole to allow the motor plug to pass through, the axle nut is 21mm . If the 17mm tool is deep enough you can leave the nut on loose and still unscrew the freewheel.

 

[Bravesst]

In the end it had nothing to do with the actual plug / connector, but the lug nut. I drilled out the tool to 11/16 (17.5 mm), got past the Higo connector, but not pas the nut. I wind up having to cut the wire, tool slipped right in, motor out.

I only SEE one Hall sensor. I need to watch some videos, do some reading, on where they might be, and how to test.

 

[Bravesst]

UPDATE ON UPGRADE
New wheel, motor, controller to match my M-7 is on the way from Plus Ebikes. They included rear cog as well, in the final assembled product. This should be a plug and play situation, as it's being built to work with addmotor components (except controller).

In the meantime, I order a Rize X. Once the M-7 is back on the road, I plan on selling it, and upgrading to a Rize 1000 Watt Blade.
I'll never have just one bike again. I need to go for that daily ride!

 

[BBotts101]

Tamper proof bits arrived, but I realized my bike tool kit only has a cassette removal tool, not a freewheel removal tool. In order to get at the motor the cog has to come off. Tool ordered.

Back and forth with Plus Ebike, and they have my set up (integrated motor) in stock, ready to ship. Just trying to decide what I need from them, while I try and bring this motor back to life. Replacement Hall sensors (if the right ones) should arrive this weekend too.

I still may get lucky here. If not, I'll order the new wheel with motor.

Hello, I'm in the middle of the same Rad cassette removal issue. Can you chat me the buy link for the cassette removal tool you used? Of coarse the Park Tools Cassette Removal I have is too big.....From what I've read, I guess I'll dremel the tool into halves so avoid drilling through the center of the tool. Thank you

 

[cerv]

Hello there,

first of all, I know how annoying it may feel to read a question you know to be answered multiple times. Please be sure I have tried to search for the answers, bu to no avail.

I recently bought a Cyrusher XF690 folding bike powered with a Bafang 750W hub motor. The manufacturer doesn’t provide much support (I’m starting to believe they just sell rebranded Lankeleisi bikes and don’t have a deeper understanding of the product) and there are some things I need to have explained or adjusted more to my liking.

1. There’s a "sensitivity" setting of the PAS in the bike computer menu, with range 1-24. What exactly is it supposed to do?
2. The current limit is set as "13" in the menu even if the bike has a 30A controller. Would I get any advantage of increasing or descreasing that limit?
3. The computer allows to choose between three PAS level "granulations": 3 levels, 5 levels or 9 levels. But it feels like the 9 level setting doesn’t add any more "real" levels. 1 feels like 0, 3 feels like 2 etc. Should it be that way?
4. It feels like the actually defined PAS levels are limited by speed at which they fade out. Even level 1 feels needlesly strong and from level 2 on, it feels like it’s kicking on full power. From this discussion and others, I understand it is possible to adjust the voltage settings for each level to achieve more gradual assistance. Is that true?
5. If 4=YES, what‘s the best and easiest way to do it?

Thanks for any tips or advices.

 

[AHicks]

Hello there,

first of all, I know how annoying it may feel to read a question you know to be answered multiple times. Please be sure I have tried to search for the answers, bu to no avail.

I recently bought a Cyrusher XF690 folding bike powered with a Bafang 750W hub motor. The manufacturer doesn’t provide much support (I’m starting to believe they just sell rebranded Lankeleisi bikes and don’t have a deeper understanding of the product) and there are some things I need to have explained or adjusted more to my liking.

1. There’s a "sensitivity" setting of the PAS in the bike computer menu, with range 1-24. What exactly is it supposed to do?
2. The current limit is set as "13" in the menu even if the bike has a 30A controller. Would I get any advantage of increasing or descreasing that limit?
3. The computer allows to choose between three PAS level "granulations": 3 levels, 5 levels or 9 levels. But it feels like the 9 level setting doesn’t add any more "real" levels. 1 feels like 0, 3 feels like 2 etc. Should it be that way?
4. It feels like the actually defined PAS levels are limited by speed at which they fade out. Even level 1 feels needlesly strong and from level 2 on, it feels like it’s kicking on full power. From this discussion and others, I understand it is possible to adjust the voltage settings for each level to achieve more gradual assistance. Is that true?
5. If 4=YES, what‘s the best and easiest way to do it?

Thanks for any tips or advices.

Interesting issues. Unfortunately, the only way I'm going to be any help myself is to know what kind of controller you have, and what kind of display. A picture of each, showing model information might help as well. Identifying these specifically will often let you find a manual for the controller, and the display, which is usually used to set up the controller.

Wild guess on PAS sensitivity would have to do with how far the crank turns before engaging the PAS. From barely breathing on it (possibly leading to false starts), to 2-3 turns (which is a pain when starting out up hill for instance).

13 may have been chosen to help extend battery life, or possibly limit a tendency to wheelie out from under you, dropping your backside on the pavement....

5 levels of "granulation" is generally plenty. These may present themselves more clearly as you build time on the bike.

Speed based PAS levels not unusual. If there is a way of changing that to power based, most will prefer that big time. MANY complaints from people that say they have low speed issues with speed based PAS. -Al

 

[cerv]

Interesting issues. Unfortunately, the only way I'm going to be any help myself is to know what kind of controller you have, and what kind of display. A picture of each, showing model information might help as well. Identifying these specifically will often let you find a manual for the controller, and the display, which is usually used to set up the controller.

Wild guess on PAS sensitivity would have to do with how far the crank turns before engaging the PAS. From barely breathing on it (possibly leading to false starts), to 2-3 turns (which is a pain when starting out up hill for instance).

13 may have been chosen to help extend battery life, or possibly limit a tendency to wheelie out from under you, dropping your backside on the pavement....

5 levels of "granulation" is generally plenty. These may present themselves more clearly as you build time on the bike.

Speed based PAS levels not unusual. If there is a way of changing that to power based, most will prefer that big time. MANY complaints from people that say they have low speed issues with speed based PAS. -Al

Hello, the computer is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LANKELEISI-Multifunctional-Display-Computer-Electric/dp/B07WDPTG8K

I’m not sure about the controller (it’s buried in the frame, not easily accessible) but it should be 48V, 30A, 12 fet (whatever that means) for 750W hub motor.