Archon X1 Programming Thread (questions and experiences)
- Thread starter scrambler
- Start date
I feel like they use different advanced version of the program with that tab. We just need to ask Pushkar (Watt Wagon) to share the program he uses and then you can decompile that version of the program the same way you did for the basic version of the program to skip the login procedure.
evixone
New Member
- Region
- Europe
They use the same program as us, just with a master login, I know this because Rico from innotrace has already taken control of my computer remotely to switch my motor from 60A to 80A.
I saw the action live and he launched the normal x1tool that I had on my desktop and just entered his email and password, and then the program had the tab in addition to the one we already have.
I don't think pushkar would agree to share his login, but even if he did it wouldn't work since apparently since February the servers at innotrace are not working anymore.
He probably doesn't have access to x1tool at the moment like we do.
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- San Diego
I remember reading - from a credible source - that you have to return the controller/ motor/ bike (choose one) to upgrade.
I'd ask WattWagons.
They're marketing a product that cost them a ton of cash. Doesn't 'giving out the program make it - as a commodity - worthless ?
Who absorbs that loss?
Do People that ordered 'wide open 3000watts' get a refund?
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- San Diego
Good news. No return required.
Yes, 'sharing' could violate all kinds of agreements.
Are you saying there's no hope in innotrace getting up?
Fn'F
I have successfully made an X1 programming cable.
First you must start with a genuine FTDI FT232R USB to serial adapter. The counterfeit chips cannot be reprogrammed. I purchased this cable. You can also build your own with instructions found elsewhere on the Internet. SparkFun and Adafruit sell genuine FTDI adapter boards.
That Feanteek cable gets a 1 star review because it does not power on the motor. This is remedied by prying open the case and soldering the red and yellow wires together. Insulate the solder joint so it does not touch the circuit board. There is main battery voltage on that connection!
To reprogram the FTDI chip, download and install FT_PROG. Also, install the FTDI drivers if you haven't already.
1. Plug in the USB cable and launch FT_Prog
2. Press F5 to scan and read the device.
3. Click on USB String Descriptors and change the Product Description value to exactly x1Tool
4. Press Ctrl+P to program the change to the chip
5. Reboot the computer to release the COM port
6. Launch the x1Tool through evixone's login bypass or hopefully normally some day
You can cut the waterproof boot off the connector to make it easier to insert and remove. Innotrace does this with their programming cable.
If you need a programming cable and this is beyond your skills, send me a message. I will do a group buy of cables, modify, test, and ship them out. I will charge $50 USD + shipping which is less than what Innotrace charges.
First you must start with a genuine FTDI FT232R USB to serial adapter. The counterfeit chips cannot be reprogrammed. I purchased this cable. You can also build your own with instructions found elsewhere on the Internet. SparkFun and Adafruit sell genuine FTDI adapter boards.
That Feanteek cable gets a 1 star review because it does not power on the motor. This is remedied by prying open the case and soldering the red and yellow wires together. Insulate the solder joint so it does not touch the circuit board. There is main battery voltage on that connection!
To reprogram the FTDI chip, download and install FT_PROG. Also, install the FTDI drivers if you haven't already.
1. Plug in the USB cable and launch FT_Prog
2. Press F5 to scan and read the device.
3. Click on USB String Descriptors and change the Product Description value to exactly x1Tool
4. Press Ctrl+P to program the change to the chip
5. Reboot the computer to release the COM port
6. Launch the x1Tool through evixone's login bypass or hopefully normally some day
You can cut the waterproof boot off the connector to make it easier to insert and remove. Innotrace does this with their programming cable.
If you need a programming cable and this is beyond your skills, send me a message. I will do a group buy of cables, modify, test, and ship them out. I will charge $50 USD + shipping which is less than what Innotrace charges.
Wow, thank you! So the guy from other forum who told me that I can use Bafang programming cable for Innotrace X1 was right. I did not pay attention what he told me because of saw an information that X1 cable is unique but he probably meant this procedure.
Now we need the last piece of the puzzle, the way to open 100A power.
Just want to confirm. You soldered the yellow wire and the red wire together like this?
Now we need the last piece of the puzzle, the way to open 100A power.
Just want to confirm. You soldered the yellow wire and the red wire together like this?
Last edited:
Yes, I just stripped those wires, twisted them together and soldered. These are the P+ (Power positive) and PL (Power Lock) pins which must be connected to enable the controller.
rcm_rx7
New Member
- Region
- USA
This is awesome, ordered up the cable you linked, seems dead simple to modify and flash. Im excited to start tuning things on the X1. Thanks for your work on this, and thanks to evixone for the bypass.
I'm guessing people are seeing this as there were 15 cables available when I ordered a few hours ago and now only 7 left!
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Could someone give me a step-by-step instructions how to use this bypass crack?
I'm old and have no idea what I'm doing with this bypass.
Thanks ahead of time
Ron
rcm_rx7
New Member
- Region
- USA
Download the zip in evixone's post and extract (unzip) it. There are two exe files in the extracted folder, one is the bypass version, and the other requires you to login. Just run the bypass version and you're good to go.
The bypass doesn’t work for me. I have a cable and the original software. When I run the bypass the login page with my existing sign in info comes up and an error pops up just like before. Do I need to delete the original software? There was only one exe after unzipped as well not two that was mentioned above. Any help would be appreciated. Thx
There should be two exe files. Maybe your antivirus deleted one? XTOOL.exe will launch x1Tool_1_0_10.exe and jump past the login. They need to be in the same folder.
rcm_rx7
New Member
- Region
- USA
Make sure you download the .zip file from this post:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...d-questions-and-experiences.40034/post-596912
You shouldn't need the original software, it looks to all be included in that zip file. You want to run the xtool.exe as mentioned in the above post.
Here's a quick screen cap of the process if that helps.
Foxhound68
Active Member
- Region
- Canada
Definitely clicking the wrong application in the folder
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- San Diego
They have Plenty on Amazon - both the old and new type.
The ad says the drivers are available up to Win 10. No Win 11 OS listed.
Really nice work there, TDA78. Not one complaint. No problems, just solutions and requests for information.
Fn'F
The ad says the drivers are available up to Win 10. No Win 11 OS listed.
Really nice work there, TDA78. Not one complaint. No problems, just solutions and requests for information.
Fn'F
Have you made sure your motor is found by the software? That the bottom of the window is green and not yellow? I made this mistake at the first try. I simply forgort to turn the battery on. Your motor needs energy to be active and be found by the software. Also in case you close the software and then try to re-open it, make sure to first go to Task Manager and look for X1TOOL (32bit) and close it manually. Then re-open it.
You also need a battery can deliver such power. Your battery is likely not capable to deliver 3000W. 3000W battery for a particular frame is not something you can buy, you have to build it. You also need to redo the battery to motor wiring and plugs and integrate appropriate fuses for safety to make it capable to handle bigger amperage and not to burn you bike to the ground.
Last edited:
