Archon X1 Programming Thread (questions and experiences)

3000W/52V=60A. You need a battery with 60A BMS and cells packs can deliver 60A and thick enough wiring between the battery and the motor to feed 3000W to the 3000W motor. Almost all stock batteries on the market including 52V battries go with 30A BMS maximum. So the best battery you can buy can deliver only 52V*30A=1500w. The stock wiring and plug between the battery and the motor on most of the bikes on the market for Bafang m620 motor are also designed for 30A maximum. If the motor controller will reduce resistance to make 3000W it will overcome the BMS maximum amperage and BMS will shut the battery down. If the BMS is not smart enough or the battery does not have fuses then the battery, the BMS or the battery to motor wiring can start heating up and catch fire if the motor controller will reduce resistance to make 3000W out of 52V 30A battery.
 
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Absolutely need a specific battery for 3k output.
My buddy got the 2300w motor from WW a couple of years ago and I built up his pack.
Actually built up (2) battery’s for him. 34.5ahr (10) pack and a smaller 24ahr (7) pack
I used Sanyo GA cells rated for 3.45ah and 10a discharge.
Used a 50a BMS and had a minimum of (10) jumper connections ( 2mm x 7mm ) per cell group.
Used #8 stranded wire rated for 105*C for my load connections using a XT90 female connector and used some #14 wires for my charger using a XT60 connector on that.

We even demo’d the pos Anderson connectors coming from the motor and soldered on another XT90 male plug.

30a, 50a, 80a there all the same construction procedures but ya gotta use different materials to safely and efficiently carry the load.
You know the old saying… the weakest link…..

On a side note.
Went for a ride this am with the same friend I referenced above and come to find out he uses the “eco” mode 99% of the time as the “sport” level gets him into trouble and he ends up breaking parts.

He’s got an expensive White Industries rear hub but it will only take an alum free hub so he goes thru those pretty regularly Along with rear cassette, chain, and front chainring.

I use the Hope Pro4 hub with the steel free hub and it handles my max 1500w motor fine.

Sorry for the derail, back to the show.
 
My cable arrived from Amazon today and I was able to successfully flash it and quickly solder the two wires in the housing together. Took about 10 minutes to get the cable modified and was really easy. I then hooked it up to the bike and was able to connect and see all of the stock settings. I'm not really sure what I want to change yet, but I played around with the throttle settings and wrote the changes to the controller. It seems to work perfectly so far! I think I'm going to change it so that eco mode operates as a class 1, and then sport mode will be class 3 up to the last setting which I'll basically max out.

I'm open to suggestions for changes from anybody with some programming experience though.
 
I need a cable and the utility to check if Innotrace sent me the correct 3000W unit as I ordered. I expected this unit should pop the 40A fuse on my battery but it did not happen. It also struggles to pull over 30 mph which I believe should not be a problem even for standard 1500W Bafang m620 motor. Innotrace also forgot to attach 60A plug on the motor, but I ordered the motor with this option. Now I feel maybe they forgot to put the X1 controller in it also and just sent me a regular Bafang m620 motor with Innotrace cover on it.

I was gong to build 3000W battery for this motor but I need to see what is going on with this motor first.

By the way, Innotrace does not offer 3000W option anymore for some reason

1681873481458.png
 
Alright, the good news is the cable from Amazon with bypassed X1Tool utility work and it looks like I have Innotrace X1 controller (at least the X1 tool utility detects the motor). So thanks again to those guys who figured this out and shared this information.

The bad news is Innotrace sent me 260W motor. WTF!? I ordered 3000W motor and got 12 times less powerful motor! Now I see why it struggles to pull over 30 mph and feels just slightly more powerful than my other bike with 250W Yamaha PWX motor.

Innotrace screwed it. They charged me extra for 3000W option motor and for 60A plug and sent me 260W motor (52V 5A) with stock plug. WTF?

Now I can not set it higher than 5A. I need 60A motor, not 5A. Even regular Bafang m620 motor 5 times more powerful than this one I paid extra for.

I do not know if Innotrace is going to help me to resolve this issue. They do not respond emails anymore. I hope somebody can figure out how to hack the program so the amperage level can be set higher than this.

1681969432913.png
 
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TPEHAK said:
Alright, the good news is the cable from Amazon with bypassed X1Tool utility work and it looks like I have Innotrace X1 controller (at least the X1 tool utility detects the motor). So thanks again to those guys who figured this out and shared this information.

The bad news is Innotrace sent me 260W motor. WTF!? I ordered 3000W motor and got 12 times less powerful motor! Now I see why it struggles to pull over 30 mph and feels just slightly more powerful than my other bike with 250W Yamaha PWX motor.

Innotrace screwed it. They charged me extra for 3000W option motor and for 60A plug and sent me 260W motor (52V 5A) with stock plug. WTF?

Now I can not set it higher than 5A. I need 60A motor, not 5A. Even regular Bafang m620 motor 5 times more powerful than this one I paid extra for.

I do not know if Innotrace is going to help me to resolve this issue. They do not respond emails anymore. I hope somebody can figure out how to hack the program so the amperage level can be set higher than this.

View attachment 152018
Click to expand...
I don't have screenshots, but I know that mine showed 60A for power, so that's not right. I didn't know innotrace offered lower power controllers. I understand the 250w limit for some countries but why get a custom controller for that? Do you know if the controller is the same and it's simply a programming difference? I'll bet that extra tab that also unlocks the 100A option would allow you to get the extra power you paid for.

I also noticed that there is no serial numbers listed at the bottom of the program in your screenshot (just garbled text), mine showed the serial for both.
 
I do not know if there is a hardware difference between 3000W Innotrace X1 controller and lower power Innotrace X1 controllers or if it is just the programming settings.

Here is my order from Innotrace and the two marked things were not delivered for some reason. Maybe they prepared a few orders for different persons and sent me the wrong unit or maybe they just did nothing with it, just took a motor from the shelf without programming it and sent it. It is hard to figure out what is going on here because of they stopped responding on emails.

You can see they charged extra 50 euros for 3000W motor comparing with lower power motors which means maybe there is a hardware configuration involved to make it 3000W, maybe they have to solder thicker wires or additional components on the controller or something, not just programming?

1681975701832.png
 
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Good news, Krasnodar from Innotrace responded to me and he said he will support me. I hope they will set my motor to 60A. It would be ideal if Innotrace would just share the unlocked version of X1 Tool so I can just simply set the motor to 60A myself.
 
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TPEHAK said:
Good news, Krasnodar from Innotrace responded to me and he said he will support me. I hope they will set my motor to 60A. It would be ideal if Innotrace would just share the unlocked version of X1 Tool so I can just simply set the motor to 60A myself.
Click to expand...
Ask him about the X1 tool being unlocked again. Seems nobody else can get replies from them !
 
You mean the registrations and login? I said him that users can not register accounts and login with existing accounts. I also said him it would be nice to share the unlocked version of the X1 Tool program with advanced settings to change the motor amperage. Let's hope Innotrace will do this.

I'm not sure how this registration thing works. Maybe Innotrace needs to borrow a server for this perpose and pay for this server monthly and maybe they decided not to pay for this server anymore because of maybe there are not enough users used it or something.
 
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TPEHAK said:
You mean the registrations and login? I said him that users can not register accounts and login with existing accounts. I also said him it would be nice to share the unlocked version of the X1 Tool program with advanced settings to change the motor amperage. Let's hope Innotrace will do this.

I'm not sure how this registration thing works. Maybe Innotrace needs to borrow a server for this perpose and pay for this server monthly and maybe they decided not to pay for this server anymore because of maybe there are not enough users used it or something.
Click to expand...
Yes that's what I was meaning did he reply regarding those questions ? And if it is a server thing and they decided to pull the plug that's horrible customer service lol. Atleast we have a cracked version hopefully if they won't release the full tool someone can crack it open further !
 
Is anyone privy to what's going on here or just speculation? Sounds like the server the software connects to is down or possibly ransomed? Nobody can login, even innotrace, but some smart folks have figured out how to trick the software to think it is connecting to the server, and thus login and use the software, which means nobody has to pay for the software or a license going forward, unless they want to pay for re-lube?
 
TomD said:
Is anyone privy to what's going on here or just speculation? Sounds like the server the software connects to is down or possibly ransomed? Nobody can login, even innotrace, but some smart folks have figured out how to trick the software to think it is connecting to the server, and thus login and use the software, which means nobody has to pay for the software or a license going forward, unless they want to pay for re-lube?
Click to expand...
Exactly. You sum it up perfect.
It's a log-in bypass. In this case represented as a 'white hat' hack, but that too could be a ruse to 'open source' what many of us have paid for. Ethics vary.
I smell ransomware too and not so sure I want to access inno's server. If I was Pushkar, I'd protect my clients.
My WW, ordered w/ innotrace wide open came programmed that way.
How can one be involved aiding and abetting "smart folks" who's didn't?
Scruples change in the face of necessity, so complicating matters, a person or two who ordered a WW controller - perhaps a motor as well - is stuck dead in the water?
Solidarity in the community inspires empathy and it sounds good, but what's really requested is pretty near impossible.
In Sum: Admin's PW's required to access their account - where the sought level of programming is contained.
And, let's stop right there. These clearly are trade secrets folks pay money for, not scruples.
-
I'm glad someone's published a 'how-to use a common Bafang tuning cord and chip to tune the Innotrace controlled Ultra'.
It's little burden on WW.
If you paid for the program and without a doubt the cable itself, not yet delivered - it's your right; but machines not upgraded at factory level by admin's cannot access higher power levels regardless a tuning cable.
So it's equitable to all rightfully concerned parties who's contracts do not preclude accessing what was purchased, by any preferred means.
Sharing (distribution) is another matter.

Fn'F
 
Comments on this cable.
20230420_202648[1].jpg
20230421_102322[1].jpg
20230421_102027[1].jpg
20230421_102133[1].jpg

$16.00USD on Amazon Plastic case opens easy w/ sharp knife Internals are plain The Yellow/ Red wires are pre-clipped.
Start by taking a photo of which side is which. Stripping those short wires, twisting together and soldering is simple.
20230421_121534[1].jpg
20230421_122720[1].jpg


Nick the insulation with a sharp knife or razor - not too deep - insulation will pull off between fingernails.
I'm using a T-100 and Variable power supply. A small twist to unify and a drop of non-corrosive flux, my solder flows right on.

20230421_123513[1].jpg
20230421_123527[1].jpg

Solder joint is above circuit contact, so insulation's superfluous. Using your photo reference, the parts snap together perfectly.
When viewed from the side your ICU Board should be level and the ICU's should be visible on the Logo side of the housing.
Soldering can be done with a cheap soldering iron. Skill level 1.
Busy today, I took an hour off to do the job, put stuff away and post this.

Next up, as I find some time we'll see if it works on my HP i7 - dedicated to scientific programs and apparatus. Win 10 Pro, it should.
My machine came set up pretty nice so it's not a priority. I doubt I'll be making any intensive changes until winter comes.

Hope this helps others - and they post the results.

Fast n' Furious
 
evixone said:
Hi everyone, here is a modified version of the program that also passes the identification.

I don't know the programming but by decompiling the program I managed to skip the login.

At the beginning I was looking for a way to have access to the "unlocked" tab that only rico and wattwagons have to be able to increase the power to 100A like on the first versions of the controller but I couldn't find the solution.

Of course if someone more experienced can find this solution it would be incredible.

You have to run "X1TOOL" in the "release" folder.
Click to expand...
You used version 1.0.10 of the program to decompile. Did you try to de compile the version 1.0.12 from here ?

 
TDA78 said:
I have successfully made an X1 programming cable.

First you must start with a genuine FTDI FT232R USB to serial adapter. The counterfeit chips cannot be reprogrammed. I purchased this cable. You can also build your own with instructions found elsewhere on the Internet. SparkFun and Adafruit sell genuine FTDI adapter boards.

That Feanteek cable gets a 1 star review because it does not power on the motor. This is remedied by prying open the case and soldering the red and yellow wires together. Insulate the solder joint so it does not touch the circuit board. There is main battery voltage on that connection!
View attachment 151643

To reprogram the FTDI chip, download and install FT_PROG. Also, install the FTDI drivers if you haven't already.

1. Plug in the USB cable and launch FT_Prog
2. Press F5 to scan and read the device.
3. Click on USB String Descriptors and change the Product Description value to exactly x1Tool
4. Press Ctrl+P to program the change to the chip
5. Reboot the computer to release the COM port
6. Launch the x1Tool through evixone's login bypass or hopefully normally some day

You can cut the waterproof boot off the co
TPEHAK said:
Alright, the good news is the cable from Amazon with bypassed X1Tool utility work and it looks like I have Innotrace X1 controller (at least the X1 tool utility detects the motor). So thanks again to those guys who figured this out and shared this information.

The bad news is Innotrace sent me 260W motor. WTF!? I ordered 3000W motor and got 12 times less powerful motor! Now I see why it struggles to pull over 30 mph and feels just slightly more powerful than my other bike with 250W Yamaha PWX motor.

Innotrace screwed it. They charged me extra for 3000W option motor and for 60A plug and sent me 260W motor (52V 5A) with stock plug. WTF?

Now I can not set it higher than 5A. I need 60A motor, not 5A. Even regular Bafang m620 motor 5 times more powerful than this one I paid extra for.

I do not know if Innotrace is going to help me to resolve this issue. They do not respond emails anymore. I hope somebody can figure out how to hack the program so the amperage level can be set higher than this.

View attachment 152018
Click to expand...
nnector to make it easier to insert and remove. Innotrace does this with their programming cable.
View attachment 151645

If you need a programming cable and this is beyond your skills, send me a message. I will do a group buy of cables, modify, test, and ship them out. I will charge $50 USD + shipping which is less than what Innotrace charges.
Click to expand...
More hardware than software brained, that's an awesome explanation I should be able to stumble through.
Are these actually 'FTDI FT232RL USB to Higo (Bafang)', or "FTDI FT232R to serial adapter"?
A FTDI FT232RL USB to 'bare wire' with a 5 pole (green) Higo attached should work.
The case design of the Feanteek you post is far superior to others. Not available on Alibaba or express
I have another coming tomorrow.
-
FEANTEEK INFO:
The Programming cable plugs in place of the display.
1.Connect the battery to the motor.
2.If the battery has an On/Off switch, turn it on.
3.Plug the programming cable into the connector that the display was plugged into.
4.Plug the other end of the Programming cable into an USB port on your laptop.
5.Now start the Bafang Programming Tool (in our case the XTOOL)
Further driver and related support: https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
-
In keeping with established forum tradition (cherished by many), if it doesn't work I'll threaten to sue you buy one for sure !!!
Thank you for short-cutting me into the information. There are no problems, only solutions; no secrets, only ignorance.
A lot of energy in this issue. You made it positive.

Fn'F
 
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rcm_rx7 said:
My cable arrived from Amazon today and I was able to successfully flash it and quickly solder the two wires in the housing together. Took about 10 minutes to get the cable modified and was really easy. I then hooked it up to the bike and was able to connect and see all of the stock settings. I'm not really sure what I want to change yet, but I played around with the throttle settings and wrote the changes to the controller. It seems to work perfectly so far! I think I'm going to change it so that eco mode operates as a class 1, and then sport mode will be class 3 up to the last setting which I'll basically max out.

I'm open to suggestions for changes from anybody with some programming experience though.
Click to expand...
Research Barnboy's posts. He's running off-road, but got the program pretty down.
 
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