Anyone have experience with SRAM Eagle Transmission on any Specialized e-bike?

you’ll have to step up at least to the 9.8 to get the GX T-Type system and that entails a much higher price point than say a bike like the Trib
Correct, since the aluminum version is nowhere to be found. However, the gx transmission upgrade to the tributary is not going to be cheap (among other things). And for that not cheap total price, it still won’t be carbon or super light. To qualify, I am looking at total cost to equip “equally”. I don’t have a solid number from the bike shop on that yet. The fuel needs nothing added unless I want the battery extender (which I do). Until I know that delta, I can’t honestly put a value comparison on them. If it came in at 7k instead of 6k, that’s a big delta to the fuel (10k). Even gives me room to do onyx and carbon wheels if I want. I suspect it will be more than that. It will also be around 55 lbs once accessorized.

The dealer for the moots flat out told me it’s the wrong bike and can’t handle these roads. So that one is dropped (even with the suspension they would have added). Which is kind of impressive because it means I am not buying anything from them.

What I do know is a good hardtail IS enough. But not many transmission models from my authorized dealer brands. Though I will take another look.

But yeah, this stuff is why I posted this question. I need to go ride a full suspension e-bike.
 
I get the power transfer issue especially if you don’t have that brain suspension (or equivalent) or a lock out. But can’t you just lock out the rear to solve that when on a lot of smoother surfaces?

I don’t see aerodynamics as much of a problem vs my sirrus X? Against a drop bar road bike, sure. And, I certainly don’t understand why the riding position would compromise power vs the sirrus X. If both those apply less or not at all to the sirrus X, then I am not overly worried about it. Thus far, if I get my saddle in the same position relative to the crank center, I have not observed significant differences. But I am also not looking for them. They were massive before my fitting.

I do get the undulating squish feeling from the suspension post on some terrain. Of course, that doesn’t affect power transfer at all.

I will likely put hybrid tires on anyway. The point isn’t traction in mud or wet or even loose gravel. It’s potholes, frost heaves, road ruts, branches, giant turtles ( don’t ask about that one ), construction and any other obstacle that vermont is up to. Lately it has been flash floods washing out the shoulders/bike lane/trails/class 4 roads and creating small sink holes. And that’s on top of the utter lack of road maintenance to address any of that. So, very little fixing happens until a road is unusable for cars. On the Sirrus I have to pick my path and sometimes stop because I can’t be where the car traffic isn’t. I might record a ride sometime. And I hate slowing down so much for potholes. Takes some of the fun out of speed. With the blade 2.0, it was nice to pick a smoother path, but if conditions pushed me into pothole lane, I just had to avoid the real large holes.

On top of that, 80% of my longer rides tend to be dirt roads anyway. RWGPS has that info pretty accurately.
it all adds up. the biggest difference is the wheelbase. check out the wheelbase on a levo vs a diverge or sirrus. it’s like 20% (200mm or so) longer. the bottom bracket is super high, the bars are wider even than a sirrus, the front wheel is way out in front, etc.

it’s purpose made for super rough terrain at relatively low speeds. look at the gearing on the trek fuel, max 34t chainring, 10-51 in the back. 3.4:1. good luck pedaling downhill! at 28mph you’re already at about 100rpm!
 
in summary, seems like you need a flat bar gravel bike with a good suspension fork, UDH drivetrain, clearance for 2.25” tires, a full or mid power mid-drive motor, in aluminum or carbon but with good provisions for attaching racks, fenders, etc.
 
in summary, seems like you need a flat bar gravel bike with a good suspension fork, UDH drivetrain, clearance for 2.25” tires, a full or mid power mid-drive motor, in aluminum or carbon but with good provisions for attaching racks, fenders, etc.
Sooooo, the tributary. There are very few of what you just described.

Doesn’t the longer wheelbase also create stability downhill?

I have never had a bike that doesn’t spin out downhill. And I haven’t *needed* more gearing on flats. But I have been in the highest gear (not spinning out on flats). I have absolutely needed more gears going uphill.
 
Sooooo, the tributary. There are very few of what you just described.

Doesn’t the longer wheelbase also create stability downhill?

I have never had a bike that doesn’t spin out downhill. And I haven’t *needed* more gearing on flats. But I have been in the highest gear (not spinning out on flats). I have absolutely needed more gears going uphill.

does the tributary have UDH/transmission? if so, that's the ticket! i looked and didn't see immediately.

i understand that not everyone wants to pedal at 40mph downhill (i do, lol) but have you ever had a bike geared as short as a trail bike? as for the uphill part, well, it has a motor...
 
The Moots is a fantastic combination of power and wh for the weight. BUT, you are paying several thousand $$ for the name. Then on top of that you are looking at a full drivetrain swap and then adding a gravel sus fork? That might mean a new headset and stem given the internal cable routing the Moots has now.... Just seems like a lot of money for a bike that still needs a lot of changes to hopefully get what you are looking for.

Downsides to the Salsa are non-removable battery, extender is so far unobtainium (as mschwett would say), and Bosch's walled garden tends to have higher walls than the other options.
 
does the tributary have UDH/transmission? if so, that's the ticket! i looked and didn't see immediately.
Indeed it does! But it comes with apex.


i understand that not everyone wants to pedal at 40mph downhill (i do, lol) but have you ever had a bike geared as short as a trail bike? as for the uphill part, well, it has a motor...
On these hills I do 40mph without pedaling.
 
Then on top of that you are looking at a full drivetrain swap and then adding a gravel sus fork?
Yes, but they have some ability to do custom builds. So it’s not quite as bad as it seems. Doesn’t matter, isn’t happening.

Gonna do another check for hardtail transmissions.
 
I think the tributary is going to cross into 9K after upgrades to transmission due to needing the full drivetrain + some new axs shifters ( just using retail pricing for various options. Parts alone could be 2-3k depending on the models selected ). I don’t think I am ok with that vs a carbon bike at that cost. I can get a new levo SL for that price (9k) that needs no modifications.

Good news: I can likely test ride both a levo (not sure which) and a fuel exe today. Still looking for a tributary somewhere to ride. But, if full suspension doesn’t create problems for me from a ride feeling perspective, that will almost certainly be it. One of my goals was to *not* have to do modifications even if it cost more money. I don’t want to be doing custom bike building if I don’t need to.

Fuel eXe is still top of the list because my ultimate goal is to get away from electric. That is the least electric, electric bike available to me. If I could handle the hills, the gx transmission salsa cutthroat would have been the bike. Right now, that’s the goal bike as I get in better and better shape. Maybe in a few years. Hopefully the fuel eXe will enable me to do hard longer rides with just enough power and gearing.

Off to the full suspension testing. I suspect the ride quality full suspension provides on these garbage roads is going to trump absolute bike ride quality enabling me to fly over the rough stuff.

This is one of my favorite routes: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/41577903

1,713 feet of elevation over 16.1 miles. 71% is dirt road with 29% paved. A large portion of the paved parts was recently re-done (the road that descends into town) so this is among the smoothest routes I can do. I do variations of this loop when I have a good hour to ride. It can be expanded or shortened fairly easily in reasonable increments. And many of these roads are the most gorgeous views I have found within biking distance. But I rarely see bikers up on these roads. I am the only looney tune who rides them. Bikes show up en mass down in town and along the paved routes. I simply don’t do routes that involve more than about 30%-40% paved roads tops. The roads often have ruts from farm tractors left when it was wet, washboards, gravel areas (where they “fixed” the ruts) and best case, rough packed dirt (my sirrus would be ok on those sections).

Just wanted to put context on what this bike needs to deal with.
 


This is one of my favorite routes: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/41577903

1,713 feet of elevation over 16.1 miles. 71% is dirt road with 29% paved. A large portion of the paved parts was recently re-done (the road that descends into town) so this is among the smoothest routes I can do. I do variations of this loop when I have a good hour to ride. It can be expanded or shortened fairly easily in reasonable increments. And many of these roads are the most gorgeous views I have found within biking distance. But I rarely see bikers up on these roads. I am the only looney tune who rides them. Bikes show up en mass down in town and along the paved routes. I simply don’t do routes that involve more than about 30%-40% paved roads tops. The roads often have ruts from farm tractors left when it was wet, washboards, gravel areas (where they “fixed” the ruts) and best case, rough packed dirt (my sirrus would be ok on those sections).

Just wanted to put context on what this bike needs to deal with.

that’s a nice route! street views doesn’t have any coverage of course past the turnoff onto gould hill, but it does seem far more like what cyclists would call gravel than trail. but maybe it’s rougher than it seems like it would be.

the elevation profile is very similar to most of the hill rides out here, around 100’ per mile average overall (that’s kind of a universal road cycling benchmark for a “fairly hard” ride) and the grades are very similar as well, average 5-6% on the climb in the beginning with occasionally slightly steeper sections.

it’s definitely gravel bike terrain, not trail MTB. but there is no law that says you can’t ride a full suspension MTB on dirt/gravel roads or even real roads if that floats your boat :)
 
that’s a nice route! street views doesn’t have any coverage of course past the turnoff onto gould hill, but it does seem far more like what cyclists would call gravel than trail. but maybe it’s rougher than it seems like it would be.

the elevation profile is very similar to most of the hill rides out here, around 100’ per mile average overall (that’s kind of a universal road cycling benchmark for a “fairly hard” ride) and the grades are very similar as well, average 5-6% on the climb in the beginning with occasionally slightly steeper sections.

it’s definitely gravel bike terrain, not trail MTB. but there is no law that says you can’t ride a full suspension MTB on dirt/gravel roads or even real roads if that floats your boat :)

I agree, there is just a complete lack of transmission based electric “gravel” bikes. The tributary being the only one I can actually obtain.

Like I said, both my blade 2.0 and vado handled it “sufficiently”. The vado struggled in some more extreme scenarios, but that was largely a tire thing I think.

So I just road a fuel exe and a norco vlt (with bosch sx and transmission) and learned some critical things:

1) I want transmission. This just went into hard “no transmission no purchase” territory. The shifting is worlds better than other derailleurs. I loved it.

2) Bosch SX is fine. It had a massive amount more power than TQ and that is largely what made it feel less “natural” to me. 100 rpm is not necessary at all.

Both of these bikes didn’t instantly irritate my hands. Which is also good. I have no idea if carbon had anything to do with it. As to the natural feeling of the exe, it never has that shuttling feeling. Like ever in any power mode. But the power is clearly there. Does that matter to me? Honestly, I am not sure it does. The advantage here is weight savings on the bike. Which, again, may not be critical to me.

Honestly, if they had the aluminum gx transmission model, I might have taken it home. This is what I tested with transmission: https://www.norco.com/bikes/e-mountain/e-trail/fluid-vlt-carbon/2024-fluid-vlt-c2-140/

And, if it were purchase-able, it might be the answer. It was great. What I tried was a rental model.

Anyway! Transmission is imortant, which motor matters a lot less to me.
 
Tho it is unlikely to be available for purchase any time soon (or ever), the top flat bar Santa Cruz skitch specs have been upgrated to SRAM and now also includes a Rock Shox. Maybe by the time I'm ready to replace my Creo and -IF- Santa Cruz doesn't go under, it will be around for purchase. I did like the Fazua motor when I demo'd one earlier this year.
 
Tho it is unlikely to be available for purchase any time soon (or ever), the top flat bar Santa Cruz skitch specs have been upgrated to SRAM and now also includes a Rock Shox. Maybe by the time I'm ready to replace my Creo and -IF- Santa Cruz doesn't go under, it will be around for purchase. I did like the Fazua motor when I demo'd one earlier this year.

now THAT sounds like the ticket!
 
I think the Canyon Grizl:ON might be an option if Bosch is back on the table. I can't see anything about it being UDH, but the Trail spec sold in Europe comes with a X0 T-type derailleur which I think means Transmission?

I've been lusting after the CF9 with Force XPLR groupset, but if you are swapping the whole drivetrain the cheaper CF7 with GRX would might make more sense.

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but the Trail spec sold in Europe comes with a X0 T-type derailleur which I think means Transmission?
I don’t see any indication that the US model has UDH. IF it does, it’s a silent feature. Like the skitch comment below, short travel fork is an unknown.

now THAT sounds like the ticket!
Not so sure. I am concerned about short travel fork. It’s longer than future shock, but I have no way of knowing what travel is enough. Future shock is bad, and whatever is on the vado (80mm) is sufficient. I also haven’t seen any evidence that fazua has gotten over it’s reliability hurdles. Honestly, if that motor becomes a possibility, about a dozen bikes become viable. A lot of brands use it. I was eyeing an ari early on. They make a fazua based model and an ep801 based model (actually two).

But, I am re-reviewing like every bike I looked at. And I have two bike shops quoting a tributary (which is looking more and more likely). I called every salsa dealer in vermont and a few over borders to try and fine one. I didn’t. But some are willing to bring one in to try.
 
I don’t see any indication that the US model has UDH. IF it does, it’s a silent feature. Like the skitch comment below, short travel fork is an unknown.


Not so sure. I am concerned about short travel fork. It’s longer than future shock, but I have no way of knowing what travel is enough. Future shock is bad, and whatever is on the vado (80mm) is sufficient. I also haven’t seen any evidence that fazua has gotten over it’s reliability hurdles. Honestly, if that motor becomes a possibility, about a dozen bikes become viable. A lot of brands use it. I was eyeing an ari early on. They make a fazua based model and an ep801 based model (actually two).

But, I am re-reviewing like every bike I looked at. And I have two bike shops quoting a tributary (which is looking more and more likely). I called every salsa dealer in vermont and a few over borders to try and fine one. I didn’t. But some are willing to bring one in to try.
If things get a bit rough, a 40mm Rockshox on the Skitch might smooth out bumps and light washboard on gravel but isn’t designed to cope with anything more serious than that. I’m just speculating that it might be the same shock that’s found on the Canyon Grizl. The Trib’s 120mm travel is likely capable of managing far rougher terrain but falls short of the suspension found on a FS trail bike which typically can have up to 160mm or more of travel. Bottom line is you just need to ask yourself what type of riding are you going to be doing the majority of the time that might warrant beefier suspension. If your curious about travel, here’s DH footage that I shot while riding my Epic Evo which sports a Fox 34 (130mm). It might provide a clearer picture of what a shorter travel bike is capable of.

 
If your curious about travel, here’s DH footage that I shot while riding my Epic Evo which sports a Fox 34 (130mm). It might provide a clearer picture of what a shorter travel bike is capable of.
PERFECT! THANK YOU! That is exactly the context I needed. Definitely rules out the shorter travel.

That trail seems pretty nice and smooth compared to the trails I have done here. Having dirt stretches that aren’t covered in rocks, roots and mud would be a rarity. These are not speed trails. But that is *not* my primary riding location. And the vado with 80mm travel was a bit overwhelmed by that (obviously not the right bike) But still surprisingly fun. To me, going off on that stuff is just a fun bonus if the bike can handle it. I explicitly tried a few trails on the vado. Ironically, I never did any on the blade 2.0 but I did far worse roads. Once, rwgps mapped me onto what I thought was a road while riding the vado. Yeah, a road for ATVs. And it was a miserable rainy day with mud between the rocks and roots. I had such a grin on my face that day. One concern: The tributary really looks and acts like an e-bike. The fuel exe, if I accidentally go on some electric banned trails (don’t ask me how I know that), no one will know or care.

The difference between that video and what I typically ride is my surface has no consistency. My dirt roads are fairly similar except it’s not a narrow trail. And my paved roads will have 1/4 mile to 1/2 mile sections that will represent the worst of that trail, but then be smooth for a bit and Then back again. Often the transitions between those are the worst parts especially if construction related (you know, where they put those big orange “bump” signs for cars and have grooved/gravel/broken parts). Those sections are horrid on bikes.

Since the floods, the rail trail hasn’t been much better. When it was in good shape, I could scream through it. That is the only truly flat hard packed dirt trail I have seen that remains that way for more than 40% of the trail. I know it’s being worked on so I have been avoiding it. Plus, without a motor it’s too far. Have to take the bike there by car.

I think the 120 on the tributary will be more than enough. It won’t flatten the way the 160mm pike ultimate did, but it will also be a joy to ride. And I think the suspension seat post I already love will fill in for comfort (At the expense of losing the dropper, which is likely fairly useless to me anyway). However, I might do more trail riding if I had a bike that was genuinely fun and matched to it. And I could reach the trails from my house.

I also don’t see any real downsides to the full suspension on either the fuel exe or the norco I tried. I tested it on what was essentially a gravel trail (in reality, a driveway that had 4-6% grade). The norco is the “cheapest” bike that comes fully equipped with transmission that I have found locally. Unless REI pulls out some magic coupons, or hits a timely salsa sale, I suspect the tributary will be more money than that norco. That will be hard to swallow given carbon, full suspension and zero work to make the bike functional. They might even have stock of that bike.

This honestly may come down to the fact that I would like racks and fenders. And that puts the tributary ahead. I also don’t mind full power. That will open up the largest range of riding possibilities. I think I would be pretty happy with any of these 3 bikes or their various equivalents across the brands. The things I care most about are 1) shifting experience which transmission addresses 2) enough suspension to have the bike feel stable over these surfaces (stability *is* the issue mor than comfort). 3) not spend more time in the shop than on the road. Hopefully ditching enviolo helps on that front.

Ok, enough blabbing. Hopefully I have tributary quotes today or tomorrow and then buy something.
 
Looks like I could potentially buy and pickup a norco vlt c2 today if I want it. Tempting. Need to remain calm and rational. ;)
 
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