Anyone have experience with SRAM Eagle Transmission on any Specialized e-bike?

To muddy the waters, I have a Tero X 6 (which I also ride on the road, on gravel, and rarely on single track). I wish I had bought a Creo 2 when they were available (since I have had a good experience with Specialized!) and that is now leading me to consider a Grizl:ON CF 9. I'm mainly wanting a different riding position option, a slightly smaller bike that fits in more traditional bike places, and a better match for road riding in cases where I'm not going offroad at all.

Unfortunately, the CF Trail doesn’t exist here with it’s X0 transmission
Yeah, it's tough that reviews are mostly of a set of 4 European SKUs, while in the US the CF9 and the CF7 don't quite correspond. And certain interesting things (fenders, the size-matched frame bag, etc) don't seem to be available in the US at all.
 
To muddy the waters, I have a Tero X 6 (which I also ride on the road, on gravel, and rarely on single track). I wish I had bought a Creo 2 when they were available (since I have had a good experience with Specialized!) and that is now leading me to consider a Grizl:ON CF 9. I'm mainly wanting a different riding position option, a slightly smaller bike that fits in more traditional bike places, and a better match for road riding in cases where I'm not going offroad at all.


Yeah, it's tough that reviews are mostly of a set of 4 European SKUs, while in the US the CF9 and the CF7 don't quite correspond. And certain interesting things (fenders, the size-matched frame bag, etc) don't seem to be available in the US at all.
I'm planning to buy a Creo 2 in aluminum when available, primarily for road riding only. I considered a Roubaix, still might get one, but I do like my electric assist when needed.
 
I'm planning to buy a Creo 2 in aluminum when available
I talked to Specialized yesterday and they said the current model lineup is discontinued. So either there will be a Creo 3 or just a new mix of specs for new Creo 2s. No timeline, unfortunately. The whole Creo 2 release was kind of odd: They barely promoted it (I don't think they sent any to reviewers) and they sold out quickly.

Similar to you, I've considered the Crux, since everyone seems to love it, but I'm still leaning toward an ebike.
 
I talked to Specialized yesterday and they said the current model lineup is discontinued. So either there will be a Creo 3 or just a new mix of specs for new Creo 2s. No timeline, unfortunately. The whole Creo 2 release was kind of odd: They barely promoted it (I don't think they sent any to reviewers) and they sold out quickly.

Similar to you, I've considered the Crux, since everyone seems to love it, but I'm still leaning toward an ebike.
That’s weird. On their site Specialized is saying the aluminum Creo will be available in August. I didn’t any of the aluminum Creo’s have been released yet, but I could be wrong.
 
I got some clarification on requirements for class 4 roads around here. The consensus was 100mm+ front suspension. Rear is not “required” but helps.

Fuel exe, here I come. :)
 
I got some clarification on requirements for class 4 roads around here. The consensus was 100mm+ front suspension. Rear is not “required” but helps.

Fuel exe, here I come. :)
The price point of the Spectral and significant savings that you would reap make it hard to ignore. That being said, you'll have the backing and support of a dealer network which will provide you with peace of mind.
 
The price point of the Spectral and significant savings that you would reap make it hard to ignore. That being said, you'll have the backing and support of a dealer network which will provide you with peace of mind.
Yep, but I found a really good deal on the aluminum fuel exe. So, it’s competitive currently. Doing another test ride tomorrow. I will try some aluminum vs carbon bikes to see if I care. The thing I like about the spectral:eek:n is the huge battery. If it were bosch, I might have gone for it. But the ep801 just isn’t selling me on it. Not sure why. I do wish I had a shot at trying the scott lumen eride.

Carbon vs aluminum really is the question. If I end up wanting carbon, the norco fluid is likely. I have a really good deal available for that one as well. Of course, I might throw caution to the wind and go fuel exe carbon.

But I think I will be committing to a bike tomorrow. *fingers crossed*
 
Sounds like you've done your homework and hope that whatever you end up with will live up to your expectations.
 
Care to elaborate?
Eh. ;)

The difference between some of these bikes is pretty amazing. I road one up a trail for all of like 300 feet before I turned around and brought it back. Some of that might have been sizing, but the motor just felt wrong on it. Even if I stood up and pedaled, I simply couldn’t get power out of the bike. I felt like I was constantly fighting the motor. That was a trek marlin 8+. The shop was trying to convince me that it was a better option. Ironically, the brakes on that one were far superior. This was a hardtail, and as much as I hated the motor, it was immediately apparent why one might choose hardtail or full-suspension.

I tested the norco fluid vlt (again). This time I went on a 10 minute trail ride (around a mile of trail that represents far worse than I typically deal with). This thing wanted to go fast. And the bosch sx motor accommodated. For better or worse, this bike begged to be in turbo mode. It very much created that shuttle feeling from a full power e-bike. This also had transmission, and again, that is a ridiculous difference. For myself, I can’t imagine someone taking this on a trail ride like what I did, back to back with a traditional XT or other whatever transmission and not being blown away. It allowed a level of precise control I simply can’t get out of other chain bikes. And that upped the ”fun” factor exponentially. In fact, right here, is quite likely why I never got sucked into trail riding. I like speed. I like trying things. I like taking possibly questionable lines to see if I can do it (within reason). I get stuck. I stop. I go back and try it again. The transmission gets out of the way. The motor lets me start in some god awful high gear and transmission lets me switch it *as soon* as power is coming on. It’s night and day for me.

I road two several trek exe. The reason: one was too big. I quickly got pretty numb hands. We just assumed sizing was most of the issue. The larger one, however, was trail ready. So I took it for the exact same ride as above. It confirmed all the transmission advantages. This bike wants to go fast in a very different way. On all these bikes I was constantly shifting gears but also constantly shifting power. Power, largely because I had to stop and start in said awful gear. Nothing different about that on the trek. It had better power in every way than whatever that marlin 8+ thing was doing (that bike just didn’t make sense to my brain). Vs the norco sx it has more refined power, but clearly less of it. There is basically no way to get that shuttle feeling out of this motor. There is also no simple way to turn off assistance. I say simple, because pushing the down arrow when in eco does not move to a “no-power” setting as both bosch bikes do. There is supposedly a way to do that by holding the down button. I didn’t figure that out until much later and was unable to actually try it. Here’s the thing: on this bike, without that shuttle feeling, I never wanted to use the higher power settings unless I needed them. Need was typically “I’m stuck” as mentioned above. Which means, this was the only bike I road nearly the entire short loop on all grades with eco mode. Now, the second exe. It was straight up brand new and not a demo bike specifically. The problem is the brakes were not bedded in yet and it simply didn’t have the stopping power to bring me + bike to a halt on steep nasty trail. But, it was a medium so it was worth riding. This shop has lots of relatively flat space immediately around it. So I zoomed around that for a bit to see if it worked well. And I was literally trying (and succeeding) to get air. I felt like a kid on a bmx dirt bike. Super fun! This bike was also a different trim level, but due to the brakes not being up to par, I couldn’t really determine any difference.

Unfortunately, they had no demo bike, in my size, available in both carbon and aluminum models for test riding. So, I still have zero idea as to whether one is better than the other. The marlin was an aluminum hard tail. But, I obviously didn’t spend much time with it. And I am not sure any observations between a lower cost aluminum hard tail and a 3x the price full suspension carbon model are valid in a carbon vs aluminum comparison. the primary reason for me to consider carbon is comfort. Also, I don’t think any of the wheels were carbon, just frames, handlebars and maybe cranks.

I plan to go back and try a few more things, and I also plan to rent, before my bike is ready for pickup. ;)
 
Unfortunately,
Forgot the second unfortunately. None of these bikes lived up to my past braking experiences. Particularly as compared to my former blade 2.0. No matter the bike, I am likely upgrading the brakes on day one. The blade could stop a 35lb heavier me ( than I am now) on a 30lb heavier bike with some amount of gear, faster and harder than any of these bikes could. I could skid that bike if I over used did it while braking. The top candidate is currently hope 4 tech v4 as quite possibly the most powerful brakes on the market. I am also likely swapping the tires for something that leans a bit more toward gravel/pavement with some trail use. Tires to be determined. But XC race tires that are designed to cover all terrain and all conditions are likely for my 3 season tire. Maybe vittoria mezcal model or similar. Haven’t ridden anything like that. Top priority is noise reduction on pavement while still being able to reasonably handle my wide range of terrains and conditions. 3-season, winter will get studded tires.

I am going to be posting a spec sheet comparison later. I just want some feedback on the other trims. Likely with specific goals of mine attached to specific items ( like which suspension setup provides the lowest vibration / highest comfort as the top priority. Handling big hits or whatever else is all secondary ). I *think* I have figured that out, but crowdsourcing is good.
 
You'd think brake performance would entirely depend on the brake pad composition. Unless something is seriously wrong with the hand lever setup and the master cylinder to brake caliper piston size ratio, and it's hard to imagine how a bike manufacturer could screw that up, except by willfully pairing parts not made to go with each other. Well, as they say in the old country, sometimes you even see horses throw up.
Here is an interesting post on the subject matter, but for motorbikes.
 
Forgot the second unfortunately. None of these bikes lived up to my past braking experiences. Particularly as compared to my former blade 2.0. No matter the bike, I am likely upgrading the brakes on day one. The blade could stop a 35lb heavier me ( than I am now) on a 30lb heavier bike with some amount of gear, faster and harder than any of these bikes could. I could skid that bike if I over used did it while braking. The top candidate is currently hope 4 tech v4 as quite possibly the most powerful brakes on the market. I am also likely swapping the tires for something that leans a bit more toward gravel/pavement with some trail use. Tires to be determined. But XC race tires that are designed to cover all terrain and all conditions are likely for my 3 season tire. Maybe vittoria mezcal model or similar. Haven’t ridden anything like that. Top priority is noise reduction on pavement while still being able to reasonably handle my wide range of terrains and conditions. 3-season, winter will get studded tires.

I am going to be posting a spec sheet comparison later. I just want some feedback on the other trims. Likely with specific goals of mine attached to specific items ( like which suspension setup provides the lowest vibration / highest comfort as the top priority. Handling big hits or whatever else is all secondary ). I *think* I have figured that out, but crowdsourcing is good.
are you saying you couldn’t break traction with the brakes on these bikes, on any surface? of course knobby tires will have a lot more grip but if you’re riding on dirt, very hard to imagine being underbraked with those bikes. something else going on. something wrong with the bike, or maybe way over the system weight limit, which would be surprising and unlikely.
 
are you saying you couldn’t break traction with the brakes on these bikes, on any surface?
No, well, yes to the non-bedded in one. But the others either did or likely could. But *not on pavement*. What I am saying is none of these bikes come close to what my blade 2.0 could do.

As a practical example, I tested some pavement downhill where I bombed down at 35-40 mph following a car. And I realized if that car stopped relatively quickly, there is no chance I could stop that bike at the same rate. On my blade 2.0, the downside was I had to be a bit careful about over-braking. The plus side is I could always stop that bike faster than any previous bike I have ridden.

I think what I am “used to” is *always* being able to break loose. what that means is you have reached your absolute limit in stopping power given the context of the situation. But, my concern, is I need to haul *near* the bike limit to a halt from 40mph on pavement fairly quickly. Think, not hitting a deer. That actually almost happened on the trail the first day. It’s kind of a regular event around here. See the attached photo from the trail rides on thursday. this is just as common on roads.

If these were demo bikes (especially if new) it's likely they weren't bedded in at all (or properly).
As mentioned, one of them was not bedded in. I only road that one around the parking lot. All other bikes were part of the rental fleet. I do suspect one of them was nearing the end of the pad life.

You'd think brake performance would entirely depend on the brake pad composition.
Nope. There are a lot of factors. Check this out: https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

Yesterday I spent most of the day riding a different rented fuel exe. 2 of the 5 bikes I have ridden had the SLX which I didn’t know at the time. Those are the two I pointed at with the best braking performance. I didn’t know what brakes they had, just from my ride feel. (Actually, 3 do, but 1 of the three was the non-bedded one, which happens to be the one I am likely to buy with modifications). I do like the feel of the slx brakes.

Yes, the brakes are “sufficient” for all but the fastest pavement downhill purely from my past experience.

Bombing downhill on this bike is incredible. The stability is awesome. I can’t wait to put XC race or other faster rolling tires on it. The ability to mostly ignore common road imperfections actually creates greater safety. I would choose to go to harder to deal with surfaces to avoid issues/people/idiot drivers on the main line. I was on a road with traffic pulling up behind cars, and I realized the shoulder was essentially a flat trail and just bypassed about a quarter mile of traffic. Was I supposed to? Probably not, but man, the bike can just go wherever. I even started ignoring curbs (at least going down, haven’t done any up curb hopping yet).

I assume this speed stability is coming from the wheelbase primarily. And obviously the suspension and knobby tires allows me to just go on most surfaces. But there was a cost. I did a few windy bits on the local paved bike trail. And I simply wasn’t getting comfortable with the hardness of turns at 20mph. In fact, the garmin was warning me about them and I started taking it seriously. I assume this is partly due to the agility lost from that same wheelbase. I feel like I would have blown through these on my sirrus X.

The bike was awesome. I took 5 separate rides for a total of 18 miles during the day. Technically, 4 rides, but garmin massively messed up on navigation due to its utter incompetence with maps around here so I biked an extra few miles on that which actually had to become a separate trip to get the garmin to unfuck itself. I am getting massive numbness in the hands and will have to focus on fit. The bike had just enough power for me to go up a mile of 8-12% grade without dying (I think it averaged 9% which is fundamentally similar to hills around me). And, in reality, I probably had more in me, as I never hit the dreaded “you are in the lowest gear do nothing” gear change attempt. I genuinely have no idea where I was on it. I maxed the highest gear routinely, but that wasn’t an issue for me. For all that riding, I used less than 20% of the battery (didn’t actually check). I turned off the assist (by holding the down button) for a lot of the riding. None of the milder stuff needs any assistance. And since there is no shuttle effect, using the higher motor power has zero thrill value. Making me prefer to use the minimum necessary (which again, on anything less than 5-6% grades for short time is none).

The reach is quite long. But at the same time, I have never felt my legs be in such a good power position. I was routinely pushing 300-500 watts according to the bike (which I am a bit skeptical about). Granted, I’ve been lifting and biking since my last bike that had a power meter. So maybe this was natural gains? Who knows. Whatever it was felt great. *AND* I am starting to love a dropper seat. Gotta figure out how to get the radar on this bike.

I am looking at whether sizing down to a small makes sense this is the medium sirrus X vs medium fuel exe: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?ge...e8ea8f0805001baaeb1a,66ad7eb527d9fa001ad14d63,

Note: you have to swap the tire size from mm to inches in the editor for the tire size to get it to look right

All I can say is the vibration through the handlebars and the position on both road and trail leaves my hands numb very very quickly. Since the stem is already pretty short on the fuel, it seems like sizing down to small may make sense?

This bike shop is weirdly a bike shop and restaurant. And, man did I appreciate that. After the first two rides I had chicken fingers and a local beer. And no one cares that everyone is sweaty off a bike.

If I solve fit, this is my future bike. :)
 

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No, well, yes to the non-bedded in one. But the others either did or likely could. But *not on pavement*. What I am saying is none of these bikes come close to what my blade 2.0 could do.

As a practical example, I tested some pavement downhill where I bombed down at 35-40 mph following a car. And I realized if that car stopped relatively quickly, there is no chance I could stop that bike at the same rate. On my blade 2.0, the downside was I had to be a bit careful about over-braking. The plus side is I could always stop that bike faster than any previous bike I have ridden.

I think what I am “used to” is *always* being able to break loose. what that means is you have reached your absolute limit in stopping power given the context of the situation. But, my concern, is I need to haul *near* the bike limit to a halt from 40mph on pavement fairly quickly. Think, not hitting a deer. That actually almost happened on the trail the first day. It’s kind of a regular event around here. See the attached photo from the trail rides on thursday. this is just as common on roads.


As mentioned, one of them was not bedded in. I only road that one around the parking lot. All other bikes were part of the rental fleet. I do suspect one of them was nearing the end of the pad life.


Nope. There are a lot of factors. Check this out: https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/
My bad. I had assumed all brakes put sufficient torque on the wheel to skid. Apparently quite a few do not. Why does the Hayes win that test when the Hope has the faster braking performance? 1.6s vs 2.4s can make the difference between hitting that deer, or missing ;-)
To slow down from 30 km/h to 0 in 1.6s you need a deceleration of 30km/h / 1.6s = 5.2 m/s^2, which means a friction coefficient of 5.2/9.8 = 0.52 (assuming you are braking on earth). That should be achievable on pavement. Motorbikes typically achieve close to 1, which means 1g deceleration.
Maybe the problem with the test is that they used a fixed lever force of 40N, which might be insufficient for all the brakes in the test to make them skid!
 
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Why does the Hayes win that test when the Hope has the faster braking performance?

I asked that exact question as well. It’s also quite a bit more money. If you read the full reviews, it’s because the hope has longer weird levers and a soft bite. So the hayes wins.

It should also be noted that the shimano slx won best value because it does all those things well while being less money. They also noted that On-trail testing the slx bested its bigger siblings. But lab testing did not. They also don’t have sintered pad results for it which made a huge difference on other shimano brakes. I am actually leaning XT/XTR with sintered pads instead of hope since I genuinely like the brake feel of the SLX. Or possibly just sintered pads on the SLX Since it brings XT/XTR nearly up to hope performance. Maybe it will do the same with SLX.

In the lab tests they certainly didn’t use sufficient force to do that. But the point was to test relative braking at the same force. If you read each brakes review, they do talk about risk of breaking loose on various models. And that *is* a complaint of some of them if you aren’t careful. The hope has a soft bite and behaves linearly which translates into less force needed and less time spent braking. Their on trail tests don’t appear to be listed anywhere just mentioned in each review, but what they did is took each bike through the same course a bunch of times and then evaluated the braking periods. The hope spent less time braking than other models. So the power translated into real world application.

All I can say, is I could treat my blade 2.0 like a BMX dirt bike in terms of getting controlled skids on pavement. And, thinking about it, maybe all that extra weight helped? So the fact that I am 70-80+ lbs lighter on the fuel exe might actually mean there isn’t sufficient pressure to skid. On top of that, I am on a rear suspension that has some kind of braking contraption that controls things so the rear stays planted. Vs a hardtail. Maybe all that, you know, actually works? And I am not supposed to be able to skid this bike? And it’s a bad metric?

Anyway, I am not unhappy with SLX braking actually on the bike. The skidding observation makes me think it’s not as effective. Which may simply be wrong. My brakes are in that list (mt5 pro) and they produced the 4th worst performance. The slx sits just ahead of the mt5 pro.

Also, if I have to swap to an ordered bike, not the one at the store, it would be SRAM brakes which just didn’t do well in these tests. :(
 
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