The Big Day or, Exploring Jizera Mts (Czech Republic & Poland)
Area-wise, France is smaller than Texas, Germany is smaller than Montana, and Poland is a tad smaller than New Mexico
That is to explain the distance from central Mazovia to Jelenia Góra of some 460 km (285 mi) meant "driving through half of Poland" and it took a professional driver (my brother Jacek) as many as 6 hours. (I'll cover our last Friday's and Sunday's exploits in separate posts). Now, right to the essence: The Jizera Mts ride!
Sudety Mts, the mountains essential to Lower Silesia and to at least three Czech regions are divided into many different ranges (I've already been to the Table and Owl Mts). The highest range in Sudety are Karkonosze Mts, which are proper for hiking and expert-level mountain biking. The Jizera Mts (German: Groß Iser, Polish: Góry Izerskie, Czech: Jizerské hory) are located westwards of Karkonosze, and still are "true" mountains albeit these are more forgiving to a cyclist, especially to a road one. Not that these are
too easy, oh no.
Jacek and I drove to Jakuszyce on Saturday morning. I was trying to recollect with what I could associate that location name. Right! A cross-country skiing area! And the Polish-Czech border pass. Of course!
View attachment 61784
Crossing the Czech border. Except of the covid lockdown time, crossing borders in EU is like going to another American state or a Canadian province.
We had a
fabulous descent to Harrachov. It was very steep, and I was keeping at 50 km/h (30 mph) on my Vado (as I feel there are slight ride stability issues above 45 km/h or 28 mph on that e-bike), while Jacek was happily riding at some 61 km/h (38 mph) on the Giant Trance E+. No time to take pictures...
View attachment 61785
Well-known ski-jumping hills (Large & Normal) named Certak in Harrachov, CZ. Ski-jumping is an extremely popular discipline in German-speaking and Nordic countries as well as in Poland, Czech Republic and Slovenia. (No Slovak competitors though!) The hills do not look impressive in the summer. They shine in the winter!
View attachment 61786
We realised there would be some climbing when we met the first switchbacks. Soon, we got to the location of Korenov, where we took a very short rest opposite a train station. A couple of young people rode up on Polish Kross mid-drive e-bikes. And I made a blunder. I greeted them with "Dzień dobry!" in Polish, and it was met with a silence. Oops! "Dobry den!" I tried better. They smiled and returned the greeting. (I simply forgot in what country I was). Later, I was greeting people with the simple "Ahoy!", which is the Czech informal and popular greeting (equivalent to "Hi!"). How came a land-locked nation chose that nautical term is unclear but it tells you a lot about the exceptional Czech sense of humour
View attachment 61788
We were constantly ascending. Here, in the village of Polubny.
View attachment 61789
A statue of the patron of Lower Silesia, St. John Nepomucene, a Bohemian saint. The statue was erected here in 1824. At that time, Bohemia was a part of the Austrian Empire, and the village was known as Paloun.
View attachment 61790
Finally, our ascent came to the end, and we could see (together with many other people) the Souš, an artificial lake created in 1915 by constructing a stone dam. The lake is a potable water reservoir and is protected against intrusion.
The Magnificent Descent
Unfortunately, I was not able to take any pictures from the most magnificent part of our ride. After relatively short and mild ascent, we passed the foot of the Jizera Mt, the tallest peak of the range to find out we were facing a 12 km (7.5 mi) downhill ride with the elevation loss of some 500 m (1640 ft) solely via switchbacks! Oh my! I was controlling my speed at 45 km/h (28 mph) and had to brake at sharp turns even more. The descent was so long I felt dazed! I only soberly thought to myself at one moment: "If there is such a dramatic descent, expect even more dramatic ascent afterwards..."
View attachment 61791
The descent continued through the village of Bily potok (White Creek)...
View attachment 61792
...until we stopped here, at the 40th kilometre, at the lowest point of the whole route. An inn called "The Workers House" (Delnicky Dum) in a small town of Hejnice.
View attachment 61793
Jacek ordered two glasses of Kozel beer instantly. A dollar a half-litre glass makes beer the cheapest beverage of the Republic. No Coke or Pepsi accepted by the Czech, and there was no sugar-free drink except of water there. I promised to have a glass of beer and I had it, although I despise Pilsner or Lager (which essentially are the same).
View attachment 61794
Yes, Czech Republic is a land-locked country but it has plethora of extremely clean mountain creeks, rivers, lakes, and ponds. Fresh fish is easily available there. So Jacek had a fresh trout. The meal was inexpensive (because the Czech charge per meal, not by fish weight as we Poles do), the fish was fresh, and the meal was delicious, Jacek said.
View attachment 61795
The staple Czech food: Potato dumplings filled with smoked pork, and served with fried cabbage. I loved it!
View attachment 61796
There are three sacred elements of Czech lifestyle:
- Beer (pivo)
- Lunch (oběd)
- Bicycle (kolo), the latter meaning "the wheel".
The lunchtime means all inns, restaurants, bars, hotels etc. are serving their meal of the day called "menu". If you arrive exactly during the lunch time, you'll only be served the "menu". Which is very cheap, by the way (say, four dollar). Czech often come to lunch on their bikes. See two Haibikes. Czech people (unlike the Polish) are very practical: If you live in a mountainous country, you would buy an e-bike if you only can afford it. No Czech talks about "cheating". E-bike is a normal and desired thing there, only expensive. (Poles talk a lot about "cheating").
View attachment 61797
I asked Jacek to take this picture so I could discuss the matter of the word "hostinec" with a Czech friend of mine. "Hostinec" means exactly "an inn", and "hostinsky" is an "inn-keeper". Archaic but frequently used word because it sounds just right
View attachment 61798
Hejnice is a town even if its population is 2736. I don't laugh; two smallest Polish towns sport their population below 2000. Hejnice can be proud of their Basilica Minor...
View attachment 61800
...they have a hotel, and even "scooter" rental!
View attachment 61801
I haven't seen such a scooter before. The owner of the scooter rental carries several such scooters to the foot of the Jizera Mt, and the person who rented such a vehicle is expected to ride the aforementioned 12 + 1 km dramatic descent and deliver the scooter back to the rental office. Ouch.
View attachment 61803
Nothing was easy beyond Hejnice. Them ascents never look dramatic in photos. We both were working hard. Jacek was surprising me all the time. To ensure long enough battery range, he rode the Trance with the pedalling-assistance OFF, and was using only 0.5x leg power amplification on ascents such as this one... So the motor was giving him only 75 W of support for his 150 W leg input here!
View attachment 61807
Czech Republic: Beautiful country, gorgeous mountains.
View attachment 61809
Suddenly: Back to Poland! The worst was just awaiting us.
View attachment 61810
Meet our new friend, Marcin, a road cyclist. Can you see the pain on his face?
We had just cleared a murderous 14% grade climb and stopped to be able to breathe again. I rode in the granny gear and full Turbo mode. Jacek switched to 1.25x assistance. We met the road cyclist Marcin taking his own rest there. It turned out Marcin make almost the same route as we did, only he started his ride earlier. The steep street was named Farmer's Road.
-- They should name it the "Butcher Road"! -- exclaimed Marcin. He showed us his Garmin cycle computer indicating even worse was to come very soon...
We restarted riding. When Marcin reached the 16% grade, he stopped and started walking his bike. We, e-bikers, just clenched our teeth and mashed more. Finally, we two reached a flat parking lot. I took the camera out of my pocket and went to take pictures of Marcin climbing.
View attachment 61812
He was such a good sport, that Marcin. Sometimes Jacek and I were overtaking him, always smiles on both sides, sometimes we had to stop to replace the battery and Marcin was riding far forward, sometimes we were meeting again to consult a map, and really only parted in Szklarska Poręba, which was Marcin's destination.
View attachment 61815
We three rode together through Świeradów-Zdrój, a spa. My Vado's brakes were screaming at a STOP sign!
View attachment 61816
The Bend of Death. You might actually get killed by a car there, as you never know what's behind the rock...
View attachment 61817
Luckily, the only victim of the Bend of Death were Jacek's cycling sunglasses (too a long story to tell it here).
View attachment 61819
A selfie. (The main reason the bend is Of Death were numerous car crashes ending with car rolling down the precipice).
View attachment 61821
Jacek had as much as 72% battery left in Szklarska Poręba, 7 km to Jakuszyce. So he switched to the POWER mode and started overtaking cars... When we finished our ride and packed into the car, we went back to the Bend of Death to reclaim his lost sunglasses. We found them. Dead.
View attachment 61823
Afternoon traffic chaos in Szklarska Poręba, another spa.
View attachment 61824
Refuelling with the EE fuel at Mercure Jelenia Góra hotel.
View attachment 61825
I was so tired we took a cab to the American restaurant in Jelenia Góra Main Square.
View attachment 61827
After having eaten the sausage and chips. I regained some strength, and we walked to the hotel uphill. Here, a picturesque Fire Brigade (state-run) building. Upon reaching the hotel, I fell dead asleep at 9:27 pm. To wake up 2:42 am
View attachment 61828
Ride map & stats.