10 Different bike saddles, and still a sore ass

I've tried my fair share, but keep coming back to Cloud 9.
 
I have found that flat saddles - not curved downwards off the side - have provided best comfort and enable repositioning throughout a ride. I have 2 SQLabs saddles, one on the Vado (610) and the other (602) on my analog bike, and I can and have ridden them for up to 4 hrs with no discomfort whatsoever. (I don't use the padded shorts/liners, don't own a pair.) Some Ergon saddles are of the same profile. Thankfully I got these on closeout for a grand total of $63 for the 2 of them, but I'd pay full price now.

I still think you've completely munged the Vado riding position with the upright bars and other mods you made. I suspect you disagree, and that's fine, but just expect continued "fitting" and soreness problems having contorted an active bike to an upright position. Those saying a large fluffy padded Cloud 9 for you are likely not wrong for some mild relief.
 
After my OEM seat unk brand name, I couldn't stand for more than a mile or so,
I switched to the Cloud 9 and it was great for all my off road riding and what little pavement I do, but the Nut Cracker room was too high, on my Wart Hog MD750.

So I tried the Schwinn "No Nose" seat, it has been a very good seat also and I have finally found the perfect one for me. Gave me the 2-3" of extra room I needed and wanted, for safety both on road and off road.

 
I'd ask:
  • are you wearing padded cycling shorts, and
  • have you had a proper bike fitting done and discussed the saddle issues?
 
My legs are tired after an hour of riding, so if my Cloud 9 seat would give me agony 😬 after 3.5 hours, I doubt I'll ever find out. :p

I do want to point out that riding position has a great deal to do with rear end comfort, at least for me. A leaning-forward position is really painful on my hip bones, so I go for an upright position; I don't have to put any weight on my wrists and hands unless I want to. YMMV.
 
Two words: bike fit.

I'd suggest asking around at a sports medicine or physical therapy place to get a referral for a good bike fit. A competent bike fit consultation will likely cost much less than all of those saddles you have tried.

That brings up another point. It might not be you, the saddle, or your choice of clothing. It might be that the bike you are riding just doesn't work for your body proportions. That might be the wrong size or it might just be the wrong bike.

No padded shorts or saddle changes are going to "fix" a bike that is improperly adjusted for you or is just the wrong size.

Also: take multiple photos of the saddle position after you've got it dialed in from a proper bike fit. Then you can start experimenting with different saddles or padded shorts. You might need to make tiny (likely very tiny) adjustments from that original position but you should always start from the properly fitted position when you make adjustments.
 
Two words: bike fit.

I'd suggest asking around at a sports medicine or physical therapy place to get a referral for a good bike fit. A competent bike fit consultation will likely cost much less than all of those saddles you have tried.

That brings up another point. It might not be you, the saddle, or your choice of clothing. It might be that the bike you are riding just doesn't work for your body proportions. That might be the wrong size or it might just be the wrong bike.

No padded shorts or saddle changes are going to "fix" a bike that is improperly adjusted for you or is just the wrong size.

Also: take multiple photos of the saddle position after you've got it dialed in from a proper bike fit. Then you can start experimenting with different saddles or padded shorts. You might need to make tiny (likely very tiny) adjustments from that original position but you should always start from the properly fitted position when you make adjustments.
I did a bike "fit" and paid handsomely for it a year ago on 2 bikes.
I have chamois padded under garment(s).
I tried the Ergon saddle Stefan suggested today, OK for 10 miles, we'll see as it goes forward.
 
Guru, I had my share of pain on the longest ride weekend of mine, three days. That's because my Vado 6.0 does not allow the stem replacement for a longer reach (it is too integrated). The saddle angle is critical: it cannot stress your private parts (if this is sloped backwards) but it must not push you forward (it is sloped forward). Give your butt a rest. Try changing your butt position: sometimes sit on your buttocks, sometimes move your body forward and sit on the perineal area. Sit on a left buttock, then on the right one. Stand on the pedals while riding sometimes. All these things let me survive my extreme weekend.

Having said that: My Vado SL has a far better fit than the Vado 6.0. I could ride for 130 km on one day without any butt ache. Only the SL has too weak the motor for extreme rides...
 
I did a bike "fit" and paid handsomely for it a year ago on 2 bikes.
I have chamois padded under garment(s).
I tried the Ergon saddle Stefan suggested today, OK for 10 miles, we'll see as it goes forward.
Here’s hoping that the Ergon saddle works for you. By sheer coincidence, I ride with the same on my fat bike and it’s fine but then again, I don’t spend hours on it at a time.

You’ve already spent a fair amount of coin on a number of different saddles and still can’t find the Unicorn that eludes you. I’m not sure if all the additional advice that’s being provided to you with respect to Brand X,Y or Z is going to help you in the long run since every rider’s experience and body type is going to be diverse just like suits or t-shirts which come in varying sizes. One can’t help but to think it might have more to do than just the contact point that you’re sitting on as others have pointed out. By proper bike fit, can you elaborate? My better half also found herself in a similar situation and finally made an appt for a fitting with a physio/kinesiology team through a LBS. She also went through the same physical assessment that was shown in the video that @Mr. Coffee posted. The shop used the Retul system and trained techs to capture and analyze her motion on different planes via LEDs attached to specific body points as well as digital sit bone and footbed devices. Retul is not just exclusive to pro cyclists but for riders of all ages and experience levels who are in need of improving their comfort or performance on their bikes. In the end, they did replace the stock saddle with one that was more conducive to her anatomy as well as a shorter stem, trimmed the seat post, adjusted the handlebar angle as well as shorten the throw on her brake levers. Her data is kept on file and a digital map of her bike was created so that she can return if further tweaks are required. She now rides with very little to no discomfort at all. She does ride clipless but I’m sure the techs would have accommodated flat pedals as well.

IMG_20220430_1159403.jpg
 
Here’s hoping that the Ergon saddle works for you. By sheer coincidence, I ride with the same on my fat bike and it’s fine but then again, I don’t spend hours on it at a time.

You’ve already spent a fair amount of coin on a number of different saddles and still can’t find the Unicorn that eludes you. I’m not sure if all the additional advice that’s being provided to you with respect to Brand X,Y or Z is going to help you in the long run since every rider’s experience and body type is going to be diverse just like suits or t-shirts which come in varying sizes. One can’t help but to think it might have more to do than just the contact point that you’re sitting on as others have pointed out. By proper bike fit, can you elaborate? My better half also found herself in a similar situation and finally made an appt for a fitting with a physio/kinesiology team through a LBS. She also went through the same physical assessment that was shown in the video that @Mr. Coffee posted. The shop used the Retul system and trained techs to capture and analyze her motion on different planes via LEDs attached to specific body points as well as digital sit bone and footbed devices. Retul is not just exclusive to pro cyclists but for riders of all ages and experience levels who are in need of improving their comfort or performance on their bikes. In the end, they did replace the stock saddle with one that was more conducive to her anatomy as well as a shorter stem, trimmed the seat post, adjusted the handlebar angle as well as shorten the throw on her brake levers. Her data is kept on file and a digital map of her bike was created so that she can return if further tweaks are required. She now rides with very little to no discomfort at all. She does ride clipless but I’m sure the techs would have accommodated flat pedals as well.

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Thanks for you insight.
However, the purpose of my initial modification(s) to change the handlebars to a more swept back position was that I suffered tremendously with wrist pain and shoulder pain (with OEM handlebars + stem). I additionally raised the stem with the Kinekt Suspension Stem 100mm 30° rise and a Kinekt XR Seatpost. All of those mods made my riding much more comfortable, never giving thought to a saddle problem lurking because of those changes. Hopefully moving forward I'll be able to mix/match the chamois padded shorts, saddles, ButtaButt creams, and endure. Thinking out loud; I'm 5'11", always for the last few years (5-6) bought a LARGE bike frame. However, the Vado 5.0 I now have is a MEDIUM. I feel that the Medium size is a more agile, controllable feeling and more maneuverable. The Specialized chart shows that the 1" difference in my height puts me into a large. I'm sure that a discussion can go on for pages about the ways to make the choices of sizing dependent on body type, leg length, torso length, etc., but 1" between a medium and large should not make all that much difference? Or am I on to something?
The Specialized site tools tell me Large with a seat post height of 30.2". Maybe as I age, I'll shrink an inch :(
 
I have a couple of Fabric saddles (Fabric is the company's name) and love them. One of my Fabric saddles is on my acoustic carbon road bike and I can do a 70 km ride without any pain.
I tried mounting the saddle on my commuter ebike, with an upright riding position, thinking the saddle would be as comfortable, but boy, was I wrong. After 30 km I couldn't wait to get off the bike!
I learned a valuable lesson-what works on one style of bike doesn't necessarily work on another style.
 
Heath and energy can make a big difference. I have my bikes Dailed in and last year I the summer I averaged 230 miles a week in the summer lots of 40 and 50 mile rides on the weekends. but this winter wife and I were sick a lot. but eve now feeling much better 30 mile rides hurt. we did 40 yesterday and man my rear end was sore even though I averaged 30 miles a day most days.
 
... She does ride clipless but I’m sure the techs would have accommodated flat pedals as well.
A lot of people, in fact nearly everyone, on this forum rides with flats. Which brings up something interesting and important: most of us have the wrong foot position on a flat pedal, and that can mess up comfort and fit. So at least what I do now is if I start feeling some discomfort I check my foot position and get it back in place. You might also need to consider proper (or at least different) insoles on the shoes you ride with flats.

I had a tune-up for my bike fit on my new Co-Motion bike about three weeks ago. Made some tiny tweaks in the saddle position (Ergon Mountain saddle) that made a substantial difference.

A lot of people also tend to sit on their bikes asymmetrically and that won't be very comfortable over the long haul. Just something to look for and something that a trained bike fitter will notice and help you correct.

On padded shorts, I recommend not having brand loyalty and ideally have three or so different pairs with different levels and kinds of padding, just so you don't wear the same spots on your butt every day (assuming you change your shorts every day). Which brings up something else: consider changing to a different (and hopefully clean) pair of shorts on a longer ride. Just to see what happens.

There are an insane number of dials on the machine and you'll never get very far in making it all work, especially if you are having problems, by yourself. Find some competent help who can work with you face to face.
 
However, the purpose of my initial modification(s) to change the handlebars to a more swept back position was that I suffered tremendously with wrist pain and shoulder pain (with OEM handlebars + stem). I additionally raised the stem with the Kinekt Suspension Stem 100mm 30° rise and a Kinekt XR Seatpost. All of those mods made my riding much more comfortable,
Out of curiosity, did you make those changes before or after your bike fit?

Also, take a look at https://www.myvelofit.com/ and see if they can help. I think they start off with a free tier and it might give you some stuff to try.
 
Sheldon Brown was one of the most trusted authorities in cycling prior to his death. His advice still lives on through his original blog. There are now other contributors to the blog, but this one on saddles is nearly the same as it was when I was searching for the perfect saddle in 2014. I found mine in a Brooks B17 Imperial that now has tens of thousands of miles on it. Sheldon didn't promote that saddle, or any other over another. It was his advice that led me to my forever saddle.

With so many different styles of bikes, with so many different riding styles; along with sizes, shapes and weight of riders I don't know how to ask for a recommendation on brand and expect it to work out. I did have one friend that rode the kind of miles I did, a similar style of bike and was about the same age and fitness I was and he told me that my saddle was too large and soft to be comfortable. I also think anyone who infrequently rides will have some discomfort. Butts and saddles break in with time and miles.


Best of luck!
 
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