Do you file depth gauges on safety chain?

I went to work at a golf course in 1969. For greens we used walk-behind reel mowers. We used larger reel mowers for fairways. For brush we used little yellow aluminum 2-stroke Lawnboys. I loved them. I bought a 21-inch commercial 2-stroke Lawnboy to go into business in 1976. For the farmyard in 1982 I bought a 20" 2-stroke Lawnboy. In all those cases, lightness was my primary consideration.

Since 1981 I've used 4-stroke push mowers for the half-acre in town. It wasn't until 2013 that I got a 20-year-old riding mower. It got the open areas, but sometimes I'd do them with the push mower. In 2015, the widow next door asked me to do her half-acre. She had set up so many obstacles that I could ride for less than half. The other half was constant pushing, pulling, and turning. That's when you notice the weight of a mower. I'd have to take breaks to cool off.

My 4-stroke push mower weighs 61 pounds. I wouldn't want Milwaukee's battery mower at 85 pounds. B&D's corded 20" mower weighs only 43 pounds. I don't know how that compares to the Lawnboys I loved, but it sure beats my 4-stroke.

When I learned to sharpen with a belt sander, I found that my push mower and my riding mower engines were quieter. They could mow at idle volume because with sharper blades, governors didn't have to open throttles as much. Sharper blades could also keep an electric mower from bogging.

In the past I wouldn't consider a corded mower because I'd need 200 feet of cords. My LiFePO4 power station changed that. I could cart a mower, 25-foot cord, and power station wherever needed.
best push mower I ever had was a Lawnboy.
 
Another tip. In PCeBikers post above with the red and blue marks in the picture, if you look at the picture of the tooth(the red mark beside it) there is an etched line of the tooth towards the back. The etched line shows the correct angle to sharpen at plus when you hit the etched line from filing the tooth down, it’s time to throw the chain out. You can see how much wear you can get out of a chain.
if you "rock" one real good its time to discard
 
Rakers is a much better word.

I fixed the original post,.. 😁



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had a "Bushman" raker bucksaw,best one I ever had(it was left at a campsite) all this talk of sharpening,reminds me of a "self sharpening" excavator tooth( it works after a fashion) its shaped about like a cats claw and as it wears its shaped to wear to smaller dimension which is sorta less blunt then a solid tooth.And if you care to notice some quality knives are ''hollow ground" which makes them easier to sharpen,look at the profile of a chainsaw tooth,there's a lot of development there,the first thing you notice is the chisel edge on the cutter on some you notice the top angle different types of wood like a different engagement,35 Degrees for soft wood 30 degrees for frozen or hardwoods,the kerf( which allows for bar clearance) the "gullet" which helps the profile to develop and if you use a file too large and you make the gullet too deep the chain will chatter,I am sure there's more 50 years of using these things has taught me a thing or two.
 
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I don't use my gas chain saw that often. It depends on storm activity. I have no interest in learning how to sharpen chains, so I have two, and send one to Ace Hardware for sharpening, and keep it in the shed. Which reminds me, I need to send both of them out as the two trees I had to chop up from the last storm used them both up.

For kitchen knives, there's a guy down the road from me who has a business sharpening knives. He works out of a trailer and sharpens knives onsite for commercial users, i.e. barbers, hair salons, restaurants. I just email him and drop my knives off, Venmo the cash, and pick them up. His setup has over a dozen machines, grinders and vertical belt sanders, with various grits and jigs for cutting angle. In between sharpenings, I give them a few swipes on a diamond hone followed by a few swipes on a steel. I could never do as good a job as he does. Good knives are expensive.
 
For kitchen knives, there's a guy down the road from me who has a business sharpening knives.

I remember in the late 70's there was a guy in a truck driving slowly around the neighborhoods ringing his bell and sharpening knives and lawnmower blades.
Just like an ice-cream truck.
 
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reel mowers actually clip the grass that's way golf courses use them.

I thought you meant real, as opposed to a fake no-name mower. 😁

Then I remembered these,..


I went to work at a golf course in 1969. For greens we used walk-behind reel mowers.


Was it powered by an engine?

I remember those manual push reel mowers.
They were a lot of work, and I kept having to "wind" the thing up with a back and forth motion to get the reel spinning fast enough to cut.
 

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I thought you meant real, as opposed to a fake no-name mower. 😁

Then I remembered these,..





Was it powered by an engine?

I remember those manual push reel mowers.
They were a lot of work, and I kept having to "wind" the thing up with a back and forth motion to get the reel spinning fast enough to cut.
real exercise,Reo used to make a powered "reel" mower,most golf courses around here use "gang" mowers of the "reel" variety( my 6th grade teacher used to try to teach us the "Virginia Reel",she said other countries were jealous of this dance) really?
 
I remember in the late 70's there was a guy in a truck driving slowly around the neighborhoods ringing his bell and sharpening knives and lawnmower blades.
Just like an ice-cream truck.
"Foley-Belsaw" used to offer sharpening equipment and a course to set you in business.
I don't use my gas chain saw that often. It depends on storm activity. I have no interest in learning how to sharpen chains, so I have two, and send one to Ace Hardware for sharpening, and keep it in the shed. Which reminds me, I need to send both of them out as the two trees I had to chop up from the last storm used them both up.

For kitchen knives, there's a guy down the road from me who has a business sharpening knives. He works out of a trailer and sharpens knives onsite for commercial users, i.e. barbers, hair salons, restaurants. I just email him and drop my knives off, Venmo the cash, and pick them up. His setup has over a dozen machines, grinders and vertical belt sanders, with various grits and jigs for cutting angle. In between sharpenings, I give them a few swipes on a diamond hone followed by a few swipes on a steel. I could never do as good a job as he does. Good knives are expensive.
Had a chain "sharpened" by a grinder in a shop,it wouldn't cut hot butter,went back to sharpening by hand,keep the cutters the same length and keep the chisel profile close,it will cut straight.
 
Was it powered by an engine?

I remember those manual push reel mowers.
They were a lot of work, and I kept having to "wind" the thing up with a back and forth motion to get the reel spinning fast enough to cut.
My father used one until 1956. In 1968, the state employment agent told me there were lots of jobs, but none for veterans. I answered a want ad from the country club and got hired because they didn't ask questions. I found quick affinity with the greenskeeper because he'd been a Marine in WWII. I'd start each day by mowing each green twice at an inch or less (I've forgotten) with a motorized reel mower. A reel mower will cut cleaner and won't scalp. I'd go out at 8 and come in at 10, leaving the rest of the day to make improvements. One morning I did it fast for fun. I came in at 9. The greenskeeper started laughing. He said in more than 20 years, he'd never before had anyone at any course finish before noon. My speed allowed him to make improvements he'd always wanted. Because the club was getting such value from my labor, he said he'd asked the manager to give me a raise and been flatly turned down. College graduate, no doubt.

A few years later I used a manual reel mower for a relative who didn't have a rotary mower. After I honed the reel and adjusted the blade, it could do the job, but there were complications. A twig would jam it, and it could roll over weeds or tall grass without cutting. That accounts for the popularity of rotary mowers.
 
After I filed the depth gauges and it made little difference on stumps, I ordered a chrome-plated chain. I haven't used it. Before it arrived, I discovered that I hadn't gotten the old chain properly sharp. Near ground level, stump wood can be like steel. A wafer 1/8" thick can be incredibly heavy, stiff, and unbreakable. That old chain is incredible!

When I sharpen, I tie the trigger so the chain will turn. I usually used a shoestring. This time it was a black velcro strap. When I finished sharpening this time, I applied some oil to the bar, then plugged the saw in so I could spin the chain to distribute the oil. Whizzzzzzz! Yikes! I'd forgotten the strap on the trigger.

This time, the chain wasn't resting on anything. Another time, I might not be so lucky. Now I keep a piece of highly visible rope in my saw sharpening box. The leg I save might be my own!

 trigger rope.jpeg
 
Most of my Ryobi tools have a safety switch that has to be pushed before the trigger will work.
I taped the safety switch on my weed eater and grinder because I've been bit by those tools a few times, and it ain't that bad. Lol

My chainsaw and circular saw kinda freak me out though.
I ain't never been bitten by one, and I don't want to be. 😁
 
After I filed the depth gauges and it made little difference on stumps, I ordered a chrome-plated chain. I haven't used it. Before it arrived, I discovered that I hadn't gotten the old chain properly sharp. Near ground level, stump wood can be like steel. A wafer 1/8" thick can be incredibly heavy, stiff, and unbreakable. That old chain is incredible!

When I sharpen, I tie the trigger so the chain will turn. I usually used a shoestring. This time it was a black velcro strap. When I finished sharpening this time, I applied some oil to the bar, then plugged the saw in so I could spin the chain to distribute the oil. Whizzzzzzz! Yikes! I'd forgotten the strap on the trigger.

This time, the chain wasn't resting on anything. Another time, I might not be so lucky. Now I keep a piece of highly visible rope in my saw sharpening box. The leg I save might be my own!

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I have seen stumps petrify in various type of soil,usually the rain splash imbeds sand into the wood.
 
Most of my Ryobi tools have a safety switch that has to be pushed before the trigger will work.
I taped the safety switch on my weed eater and grinder because I've been bit by those tools a few times, and it ain't that bad. Lol
In 1968 I participated in an international tour with a gentleman named Davy Crockett. One morning we were sitting on the ground conversing with a 4-year-old villager. Crockett got up to speak with other tourists. A second later there was an explosion, and everybody knew he'd wasted a perfectly good rifle cartridge, which the government had kindly purchased for him. He was such a poor shot that he'd missed his foot by nearly an inch.

If you like to chamber a round and carry a rifle like that by the trigger, you're supposed to turn a lever on the side to prevent the trigger from being pulled. Secretly, I thought Crocket was the dumbest person in the world. Seventeen years later I found out, no, I was.

I was cutting trees and brush along a pasture to put up a boundary fence. I discovered a barbed-wire fence that might have been there 60 years. I'd have to cross it to make my next cut. Hanging the saw in my right hand, I stepped over the wire with my left leg. The handle slipped in my hand, and the trigger slid into the grasp of my index finger, and the chain spun alongside my right leg. I didn't have good control over the position of the bar, and if I tried to release the trigger, my grip would have been looser. I missed my leg by nearly an inch, so I was no more accurate with a chainsaw than Crockett was with a rifle.

My favorite feature of my electric saw is the button that keeps the trigger from being pulled accidentally, unless of course you are brilliant enough to put a strap on the trigger. :mad:
 
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Co-worker got this from a family member. It was his dad's (who passed awhile ago) and the saw "vanished" from the shed. It was found and recovered. It starts and runs but needs a serious tune up. Parts are on the way!
 

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I don't get it??

What the point of the hollow Hoola Hoop bar??

Does it cut circles? Or wiggly lines?
 
I use an Oregon bench grinder. Have to make sure it is centered when cutting the knives or they cut crooked. Cut the gauges however deep you want to make the cut, can go aggressive or easy. Always take two or three chains to the field, one starts to dull switch it out. Have to cut the knives slow or a burr will develop and use the correct width cutter.

On the lawn mower blades, I use a hand file unless the blade is really bad, the blades are soft metal and easy to sharpen with a good file. If an angle grinder is used the heat at the edge makes the edge really soft and they won't stay sharp very long. Haven't used a wet wheel but that would be ideal. And always balance the blades. I have a 25 yr old 48" walk behind with the same spindles as new.
 
I don't get it??

What the point of the hollow Hoola Hoop bar??

Does it cut circles? Or wiggly lines?
Used for smaller trees on the ground; easier on cutters back. I think this one is missing a guard.

 
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