Road Dust Problem

[Rowena]

South Africa

 

[PCeBiker]

This is brilliant thank you!
I would like to do this if I can find this product

There's a bunch of hot waxes on Amazon, but they're kinda expensive.
This is what I bought a few years ago,..
It was $35 when I bought it in 2022.

I used a pot full of boiling water with the chain and wax in a heat resistant plastic container in the hot water.
That keeps the wax at a maximum 100°C

A slow cooker works too, and they aren't too expensive.

The most important part is getting your chain Completely Clean first with no trace of oil left.
It needs to be removed from inside the rollers.

Any oil left is like finger prints on your brake rotors, and the wax won't stick.


Here's some posts about my chain waxing,..

A pound of wax will do at least a dozen chain treatments.
You remelt and reuse the wax over and over.



Post in thread 'I just bought an ET.CYCLE T1000' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/i-just-bought-an-et-cycle-t1000.51230/post-577267


Post in thread 'I just bought an ET.CYCLE T1000' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/i-just-bought-an-et-cycle-t1000.51230/post-579169


Post in thread 'Oops,..' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/oops.57073/post-668415


Post in thread 'Lugging a Motor, Why it's Bad' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/lugging-a-motor-why-its-bad.57672/post-685790

 

[PedalUma]

if I can find this product

The easy way is to just use paraffin wax. I use a base of soy wax with some paraffin and a dash of Muc-Off dry lube. Straight soy is not corrosion resistant enough on its own. Paraffin is inexpensive.

 

[Gionnirocket]

What some are doing and I plan to try at the next chain change is pure paraffin and some dry Teflon powder.
Ratio 50:1 respectively.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Soy wax is not known for its lubrication properties and has a lower melting temp than paraffin which can be a real problem in warm climates.

That said, I don't expect it to last a year as others suggest... Or for it to totally repel contaminants, especially in warm weather.
One point @PCeBiker made that I think to be important is to fully remove the factory chain coating which is probably more for rust prevention.
Currently using Boeshield T9 which is paraffin Wax in a solvent and which has provided excellent lubrication but isn't totally dust repelling. But I also did not remove the factory lubrication which left the chain a bit messy at first but is less of an issue as time goes on.
I'll touch up the waxed chain with T9 as needed which I expect to be at near a regular interval.
ymmv

 

[PCeBiker]

That said, I don't expect it to last a year as others suggest...

Yeah, the guy in the video said every 300 miles, but I'm sure using the T9 every 300 miles is fine followed by a yearly deep clean and rewax.

Even the yearly cleaning is easier because there's no oils to remove from the chain.

It is kinda involved but I got a lot faster the second time around.
I had problems removing the quick link. (no problem installing it though)

A quick link tool was a must.

 

[PCeBiker]

What some are doing and I plan to try at the next chain change is pure paraffin and some dry Teflon powder.
Ratio 50:1 respectively.

Your links didn't work for me in Canada, so I just searched Amazon.ca and bought some wax and Teflon powder.

My original bike chain wax has Molybdenum Disulfide in it as well, but it's $67 now and 2 ounces of Molybdenum Disulfide powder is $37, so I just bought the wax and Teflon.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Your links didn't work for me in Canada, so I just searched Amazon.ca and bought some wax and Teflon powder.

My original bike chain wax has Molybdenum Disulfide in it as well, but it's $67 now and 2 ounces of Molybdenum Disulfide powder is $37, so I just bought the wax and Teflon.

It's a bike chain... I'm not going to gold plate it and then protect it with a coat of titanium
As for the paraffin wax treatment... I'm going to do it as an experiment but I doubt I'll start a 5 chain rotation or have a melt going on monthly.
4700mi on my current e8 chain using the T9. Still no "wear" near 0.75 stretch.
A few things to note are a very natural programming of the motor so no huge current spikes and I'm running a 1 to 1 chain sprockets with the IGH so there's no lateral forces either.
ymmv

 

[stompandgo]

Still no "wear" near 0.75 stretch.

I see what you did there

 

[PedalUma]

I am starting a pot of chain soup right now. It takes two for this huge steel Spanish cargo bike that carries two kids, because it is long. Why would anyone make such a mommy torture device without a motor? I am converting it. It has an IGH with a single speed chain.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I see what you did there

. . .

 

[Rowena]

So; apart from the hot wax solution (which probably lasts longer)… had anybody here tried the WD40 Specialist Dry Lube - sprayed onto a clean chain?
The so called theory about this option is that:
• Dust won’t stick to your chain, and will even just blow off.
• And it will entirely rinse off with a hosepipe leaving a clean/non greasy chain to start over - which is why it’s unfavourable in wet climates.

Your thoughts?

 

[6zfshdb]

So; apart from the hot wax solution (which probably lasts longer)… had anybody here tried the WD40 Specialist Dry Lube - sprayed onto a clean chain?
The so called theory about this option is that:
• Dust won’t stick to your chain, and will even just blow off.
• And it will entirely rinse off with a hosepipe leaving a clean/non greasy chain to start over - which is why it’s unfavourable in wet climates.

Your thoughts?

The WD 40 dry lube would probably work to keep dust from accumulating on most bike surfaces but IMO, it won't provide enough lubrication for the chain.
I've never tried it and others may disagree, but I would use another product specifically designed for chains.

 

[Gionnirocket]

My experience with dry lubes is that they don't last very long at all. If you read the description there's no mention for use in the outside environment and more for tools and bits used indoors. It may work but you'll probably have to apply it often.

 

[6zfshdb]

Keep in mind a chain is a wear item and will need to be replaced eventually. Sure, cleaning and lubing on a regular basis will definitely extend its life but how much time, effort and $$ are you willing to spend to get extra life out of it? Chains are relatively cheap and easy to replace so IMO, there is no reason to go overboard with maintenance.

I ride some very dusty & dirty trails and have never broken a chain in over 10K miles. I clean, lube and wear check them twice a season. I'll also wipe off visible crud with a rag after a particularly nasty ride. I buy good quality chains that need replacement every third season or so. Personally, I would rather spend the time riding than fussing over chain maintenance.

This is just my philosophy though, so YMMV.

 

[Rowena]

Keep in mind a chain is a wear item and will need to be replaced eventually. Sure, cleaning and lubing on a regular basis will definitely extend its life but how much time, effort and $$ are you willing to spend to get extra life out of it? Chains are relatively cheap and easy to replace so IMO, there is no reason to go overboard with maintenance.

I ride some very dusty & dirty trails and have never broken a chain in over 10K miles. I clean, lube and wear check them twice a season. I'll also wipe off visible crud with a rag after a particularly nasty ride. I buy good quality chains that need replacement every third season or so. Personally, I would rather spend the time riding than fussing over chain maintenance.

This is just my philosophy though, so YMMV.

You make a very good point regarding the chain. But I’d like to know your thoughts regarding other components such as the motor and gears - and whether these take strain (and work less smoothly) off a sticky grime filled chain?

 

[6zfshdb]

You make a very good point regarding the chain. But I’d like to know your thoughts regarding other components such as the motor and gears - and whether these take strain (and work less smoothly) off a sticky grime filled chain?

I think the answer depends on what type of bike you ride. Derailleur cogs, cassette gears, chain rings and motor sprockets do wear, but they're made of hardened steel and take much longer to wear out than a chain. Again, cleaning and lubing will extend their life, but I've never had to replace any in well over 10K miles by just doing a twice per year cleaning & lubing.

Internally geared hubs and chainless Gates belt drives are less susceptible to this kind of wear. Chain & cog wear is more important for mid drive bikes since a failure could strand you somewhere. Carrying a master link and chain tool would be good insurance and, in many cases, can be used to repair a broken chain on the road.

With rear hub drive bikes, you could always get home using a throttle or PAS should there be a drivetrain failure.

Don't misunderstand, I'm not saying chain & drivetrain maintenance isn't important. It just isn't something I worry about or spend a lot of time fussing over.

 

[Gionnirocket]

My experience with derailleurs and now the tensioner used with my IGH is that if the chain isn't relatively clean and lubricated every 100 to 400 miles... things still operate but are noticeably noisier and not as smooth with some added clunks. Winters seem to be more problematic and that's where I maintain every 100 - 200 miles. Summers I can typically extend that to 200 - 400 miles depending on where I'm riding/weather. The T9 instructions I believe recommends every 250mi.
So know your bike and know you'll never go wrong by keeping it clean... just don't get obsessive as it detracts from the fun.

 

[Hewholaughslast]

Speaking of dirt, I ride on the paved roads and paved trails between my house and the park but still pick up a lot of dirt/dust on my bike chain. Mainly from those little piles of dirt and sand at intersections and dirt that I can't see on the road. It has been bone dry for a few months so no big storm has come along to wash the roads. I've been using some silicone spray, with Cerflon, very slippery stuff, but it still collects dirt. Would different tires (smoother tread) cut down on this issue or different chain lube or is it just a common issue we live with?

 

[PedalUma]

different chain lube

You will need to clean that chain. If it has a quick link, take off the chain. The easy non-chemical way to clean it is to put it with Dawn water in a clean peanut butter jar and shake it. Latin music help with this process. Rinse, dry, and use Muc-Off bio-wax dry lube. It does not attract grit.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. with Dawn water in a clean peanut butter jar and shake it.

Use a plastic plastic

I don’t know if they have glass peanut butter jars or not, but you don't want to shake a chain in a glass jar.