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[fooferdoggie]

I like the Milwaukee brand. I'm pretty sure it's a step up from my Ryobi tools.
I still don't get it??
I'm assuming that you are stapling planks and not your pants, but why would you use 300 staples then pull them all out?
I've found that staples are a lot easier to remove if you don't use them in the first place.
Are you gluing planks together to make bigger planks of wood?
Wouldn't clamps or screws be easier?

Yes better than ryobi. I liked the weight better than the Makita nailers. This gun I use to nail small parts down on my cnc router so they don’t come loose while I am cutting them.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. This gun I use to nail small parts down on my cnc router so they don’t come loose while I am cutting them.

I had been using my diagonal side cutters to pull nails and staples from wood and flooring.
I'd dig the tip in beside the nail to get to the head of the nail, but the jaws are big and aren't flush cut, so it takes out a big chunk of wood.
I'd just grip the nail and push down on the handles to lift the nail head high enough to grab it with a pliers.

I started using my Mini Nippers, and they worked better without digging such a big hole into the wood, but then I decided to try and just cut the head of the nail off below the surface and broke the tip off my Nippers.
So I put a new tip on the Nippers with my grinder.

Then I bought the Knipex Nippers.

The Knipex Nippers work great to get under a staple or nail, but I won't be trying to cut any nails with it.
Just grip the staple hard enough to lever the staple up,..

 

[fooferdoggie]

I got the long guys for leverage. It makes the nails come out easily. I must have removed 500 nails today. I used to use flush cutters, but having those long handles makes a huge difference. I was cutting them off, but it leaves a stub. The new tool is actually less work to pull them out than my other tools were to cut them. This is only some of the parts I nailed down, then removed the nails in the last two days.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. The new tool is actually less work to pull them out than my other tools were to cut them.

How do you get to the nail head to grip it?
Is it still above the surface, or do you have to dig for it?

 

[fooferdoggie]

How do you get to the nail head to grip it?
Is it still above the surface, or do you have to dig for it?

The nails hold the part in place while it is cut, but they lift up easily when done.. Then I can pull the nail out from the back, the nails don't have much head on them. There are a lot of them in that sawdust. I have a nail gun that shoots plastic nails that you can just break off. But they are not as strong and don't hold as well on smaller pieces unless I use 3 or 4 nails.

 

[6zfshdb]

I use stork beak pliers for pulling small flush driven nails.

Grip the nail head and rock the tool backward. The small tips of the tool do little surface damage.

 

[6zfshdb]

I saw this one at a yard sale and just had to have it:

I just love the looks on the faces of friends who see it hanging on my tool backboard. Most won't ask what it does for fear of looking stupid.

 

[PCeBiker]

Most won't ask what it does for fear of looking stupid.

OK,.. I'm going to hazard a guess,..

It's a fexible long reach screw driver.

I've dealt with something similar before.
It was a flexible extension for a socket set about 8" long.

It kinda worked, but not really.
If you put any torque on it, especially if it wasn't perfectly straight, it would twist up like a pretzel.
And if it's connected to your drill, it'll yank the drill out of your hand or you'll get your fingers caught in it when it turns into a pretzel.


I'm really liking your version.
You can fold a handle for your other hand to grab while you twist with the other hand.
That way you can see the pretzeling start to happen so you can try to countersteer the twist as it starts to fold up.

It's a bit like soaking a length of rope in hot wax then trying to use it like a stick.

 

[6zfshdb]

No stupidity involved. After I bought it, I had to do quite a search to find out it's purpose. The shaft doesn't bend and the handle spins freely.
It's called a "Dogleg Reamer"

Aircraft Tool Supply Dogleg Deburring Tool (10"): Deburring Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Aircraft Tool Supply Dogleg Deburring Tool (10"): Deburring Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

It's used mainly in aircraft construction to quickly deburr rivet holes in aircraft fuselages.
It looks awkward to use but a quick spin with the bit in the hole does the job. Comes in handy when you're doing thousands of holes and it won't enlarge the hole like an electric reamer could.

 

[PCeBiker]

No stupidity involved. After I bought it, I had to do quite a search to find out it's purpose. The shaft doesn't bend and the handle spins freely.
It's called a "Dogleg Reamer"

Well, That's Cool !!

Aircraft Tool Supply Dogleg Deburring Tool (10"): Deburring Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Aircraft Tool Supply Dogleg Deburring Tool (10"): Deburring Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Thirty bucks.
I want one.
Now all I need is an airplane to work on.
I've already got $100 worth of fancy airplane grease.

It looks awkward to use but a quick spin with the bit in the hole does the job.

It looks perfectly ergonomic to me !!

I made another eating utensil to go with my Spife.

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Sweet. It is a thing of beauty, creativity and ingenuity. The supports under the wall posts must be strong. I can now see that the tourists in the tour buses witnessed the entire process. I don't mind being expansive on this thread. I am inspired. 6x6 built in and well supported with heavy post...

forums.electricbikereview.com

It's got a perfect ergonomic fit for my hand with its bent handles.

I can eat a whole one bite at a time, so I don't even need the Spife.

I had to shorten the tong length because it's hard to feed myself with 18" BBQ tongs, and there wasn't enough torque to hold a 2 pound a foot from the fulcrum.
The handles would bend, and my hand started cramping.
I've got to make some adjustments and put full circle grippers on it.

I was holding a bone and it spun around and got flung onto the floor.

 

[PCeBiker]

I use stork beak pliers for pulling small flush driven nails.

I've tried that, but there isn't enough torque to hold the nail with THE LONG Storky Beak.

I need a more powerful Parrot Beak pliers,..

I'd snap a Storks' beak right off its head trying to pull a nail with it.

I'm going to get myself a pet Parrot and train it to pull nails.

They can last for over a hundred years too, just like a quality Knipex Tool.

Firstly though, I will teach it to swear like a sailor.
A pirate actually, they know even better swear words.

 

[spokewrench]

The nails hold the part in place while it is cut, but they lift up easily when done.. Then I can pull the nail out from the back, the nails don't have much head on them.

I passed on the Knipex because of reported quality problems. Then I found that Knipex designed them for a specific purpose: snipping the wires used to tie rebar at crossing points.

I bought a Bates version for $5. I discovered that it can't catch a nail as close to the surface as other types, and it's easy to cut a nail by accident. Fortunately, my order included a 10" cat paw and an 18" gooseneck wrecking bar. The gooseneck complements my 13" flat pry bar nicely.

The cat paw will grab very close to the surface, and the notches are acute enough to grasp the shaft of a headless nail. The design comes in several sizes.

Here's a nail puller that came in handy for several years. Headless? No problem. Furthermore, the handle is a slide hammer to grab nails below the surface.

 

[PCeBiker]

Here's a nail puller


View attachment 193726

That's The Coolest Nail Puller I've ever Seen !!!

I tried pulling pallets apart and wasn't having much luck without trashing the planks of wood.

I attached a drill to the wind up scissor jack from my car to press the planks off, but it kept breaking the boards at the nails instead of pushing the nails out.

I Was considering making one of these, but I Suck at welding.

 

[PCeBiker]

Here's a nail puller

It's got a proper Beak on it.

 

[spokewrench]

I tried pulling pallets apart and wasn't having much luck without trashing the planks of wood.

I attached a drill to the wind up scissor jack from my car to press the planks off, but it kept breaking the boards at the nails instead of pushing the nails out.

Me too! A flat pry bar might budge the boards, and a cat paw could be driven under flush heads, but is it worth it? Mostly, I've sawed off the short lengths of slats. They're good as shims, for example to keep a four-footed A ladder from rocking or to keep an extension ladder plumb.

I found out the hard way that pallets are made of wood that isn't good for much else. I salvaged a heavier board from a pallet and made it into a precise replacement for the threshold at the back door. I figured sealer and paint would preserve it. I was wrong.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I passed on the Knipex because of reported quality problems. Then I found that Knipex designed them for a specific purpose: snipping the wires used to tie rebar at crossing points.

I bought a Bates version for $5. I discovered that it can't catch a nail as close to the surface as other types, and it's easy to cut a nail by accident. Fortunately, my order included a 10" cat paw and an 18" gooseneck wrecking bar. The gooseneck complements my 13" flat pry bar nicely.

The cat paw will grab very close to the surface, and the notches are acute enough to grasp the shaft of a headless nail. The design comes in several sizes.

Here's a nail puller that came in handy for several years. Headless? No problem. Furthermore, the handle is a slide hammer to grab nails below the surface.


View attachment 193727

That would be like using vice grips to remove a tiny sliver for what I am doing. hell, its leverage is longer than the actual part.

 

[PCeBiker]

That would be like using vice grips to remove a tiny sliver for what I am doing. hell, its leverage is longer than the actual part.

Here ya go,..
It's specifically designed for pulling slivers.

Well,.. maybe just silver slivers.

 

[PCeBiker]

Me too! A flat pry bar might budge the boards, and a cat paw could be driven under flush heads, but is it worth it?

Well,.. I bought a cat paw.
There were $10 versions available, but I went with the Estwing brand because they at least used to make good tools.

I found this too,..

The slid-hammer nail puller was a bit too pricey.



Everything is junk nowadays though, so we'll see what I end up with.

I bought some anti-slip deck tape to get free shipping.
I'm going to stick it to my batteries so I don't drop the damage things.
They're too slippery and don't have a handle, plus you can only grab the 14 pound battery with one hand because you have to hold the spring-loaded key lock open with the other hand.
Stupid Fricken design,..

Mostly, I've sawed off the short lengths of slats. They're good as shims, for example to keep a four-footed A ladder from rocking or to keep an extension ladder plumb.

Yeah, ive done that too, but it'd be nice to have full length boards.

I found out the hard way that pallets are made of wood that isn't good for much else.

That's not 100% true.

The pallets that are painted blue are made from hardwood and are designed to be reused Many times.

 

[spokewrench]

The slid-hammer nail puller was a bit too pricey.

I bought some anti-slip deck tape to get free shipping.
I'm going to stick it to my batteries so I don't drop the damage things.
They're too slippery and don't have a handle, plus you can only grab the 14 pound battery with one hand because you have to hold the spring-loaded key lock open with the other hand.
Stupid Fricken design,..

Yeah, ive done that too, but it'd be nice to have full length boards.

That's not 100% true.

The pallets that are painted blue are made from hardwood and are designed to be reused Many times.

Walmart has the Crescent slide-hammer puller for $40 and $80, depending on the vender. Amazon has other brands, ranging from $37 to $97.

I wished my Radrunner battery had a handle. It was mounted between the seat tube and the back fender, so I couldn't use two hands. As I feared, I lost my grip once, dropping it 10" onto concrete. My Radmission battery is on the down tube, so I can use both hands. My Abound battery is especially heavy, but the plastic cover on one side allows a sure grip.

I got some full-length boards from a pallet like yours, but that kind of wood didn't seem good for much.

If I'd known the blue wood was better, I would have painted my threshold!

 

[spokewrench]

I bought this 64 ounce hammer 6 years ago to cut stumps flush with the ground. Using a framer's hatchet as a chisel was better than damaging a chain saw, but a claw hammer would have had to be swung faster, and a faster impact increases damage and danger.

Also, a heavier hammer is better at imparting energy to an object. The force of impact affects the hammer and the object. Kinetic energy is acceleration times distance, and acceleration is force divided by mass. Thus, with equally powerful impacts, a 4-pound hammer will bounce with only 1/4 as much energy as a 1-pound hammer.

My 4-pounder is often useful. When I climb a ladder to remove boards from the old shed, I'll take my 64-ounce blacksmith hammer and leave my 16-ounce claw hammer.

(All this time, I thought it was 22oz. I'm glad I checked. I am now in the market for a heavier claw hammer.)