I have just bought a Delite GX Rohloff bike and would like to keep an eye on the chain tension (standard chain tensioner). Is there a quick way of assessing the tension of the chain? I know on my motorcycle I can use a ruler to measure the tension but there is no such guidance on the Delite. Does anyone have any tips? Thanks.
Delite GX Rohloff chain tension
- Thread starter djsb
- Start date
Dmitri
Active Member
Hold on... I thought only Delite Mountain Rohloff has a tensioner, Delite GX Rohloff doesn't. At least my model doesn't. Maybe things have changed in 2018, but the photo on the website still shows a Rohloff w/o a tensioner.
As far as bikes go, you typically want to measure not the tension but chain wear, and there are simple tools for that to help you figure out how much a chain has stretched. It is this measurement that you should be using in order to determine when it's time to throw away the chain.
As far as bikes go, you typically want to measure not the tension but chain wear, and there are simple tools for that to help you figure out how much a chain has stretched. It is this measurement that you should be using in order to determine when it's time to throw away the chain.
Dmitri
Active Member
If your bike is the same is mine, the 'default' tension should be such that the top line of the chain is a straight line from front sprocket to back sprocket. As your chain wears out, pressing on this will create an arch in the chain. As the chain reaches critical levels, you will simply start dropping the chain, at which point it's time for the chain to be replaced.
In other words, tension per se is a byproduct of chain stretch. The little roller wheel does little apart from reorient the chain and does not appear to affect chain tension. It's definitely a must-have part if you want a belt drive (see the Delite NuVinci), but sadly this also requires tensioned dropouts, which R&M does not make (and I'm not quite sure I can engineer them either).
Here's something you might find interesting: I recently asked my dealer to order me a set of extra dropouts for my bike and guess what, I got a dropout with a hanger... so now theoretically I can buy a Rohloff tensioner and attach that, if I wanted to. Someone on Pedelecforum did exactly this, and R&M now uses a tensioner on their Delite Mountain.
In other words, tension per se is a byproduct of chain stretch. The little roller wheel does little apart from reorient the chain and does not appear to affect chain tension. It's definitely a must-have part if you want a belt drive (see the Delite NuVinci), but sadly this also requires tensioned dropouts, which R&M does not make (and I'm not quite sure I can engineer them either).
Here's something you might find interesting: I recently asked my dealer to order me a set of extra dropouts for my bike and guess what, I got a dropout with a hanger... so now theoretically I can buy a Rohloff tensioner and attach that, if I wanted to. Someone on Pedelecforum did exactly this, and R&M now uses a tensioner on their Delite Mountain.
I'm curious to see my experiences with chain tension. Part of me says buy the new dropout and tensioner from the get go. The other side of me remembers my motorcycles only needed minor adjustments. I guess time will tell with this fancy new ebike! Either way can't wait to start riding it!
GillBoyNewn
New Member
My R&M Delite GX Rohloff definitely DOES have a chain tensioner, which works just like dsjb describes.
Dmitri
Active Member
This could actually be a fun experiment to do. I found the pulley wheel itself sold here (if you were to go for the same model), and then there's the proprietary screw (large flange) that may or may not be compatible with the Delite.
But looking at the sprocket I think it might be too large. Not sure though.
So I've just had a go at adjusting the tension. Here is what I did.
1/ Turned the bike upside down.
2/ Measured the distance between the dropout slider edge and the frame edge on both sides. This serves as a reference to see if the slider is actually moving.
3/ There is a small square hole at the rear of each slider. A 3mm Allen wrench can be inserted here. The Allen screw is turned to the left (effectively unscrewed) to move the slider backwards.
4/ As the screw moves backward (is unscrewed) resistance can be felt. If the screw is turned to the right (screwed in) it allows the slider to move forward. Applying downward pressure on the chain will actually move the slider forwards again.
5/ On the non chain side the action is the same apart from there being no chain to help move the slider forwards so a tap with a large piece of wood to the dropout does the trick.
6/ So adjustment just consists of doing the above until you are satisfied with the tension. Keep checking on the wheel alignment by making sure the centre of the tyre lines up with the mudgaurd bolt on the frame. Double check with a vernier caliper and listen/feel for any roughness in the transmission and readjust accordingly.
I've been a bit over cautious this time and have decided to check and readjust regularly until I get used to the adjustment method. Bit worried about tightening the chain too much in case the hub or motor bearings get damaged.
1/ Turned the bike upside down.
2/ Measured the distance between the dropout slider edge and the frame edge on both sides. This serves as a reference to see if the slider is actually moving.
3/ There is a small square hole at the rear of each slider. A 3mm Allen wrench can be inserted here. The Allen screw is turned to the left (effectively unscrewed) to move the slider backwards.
4/ As the screw moves backward (is unscrewed) resistance can be felt. If the screw is turned to the right (screwed in) it allows the slider to move forward. Applying downward pressure on the chain will actually move the slider forwards again.
5/ On the non chain side the action is the same apart from there being no chain to help move the slider forwards so a tap with a large piece of wood to the dropout does the trick.
6/ So adjustment just consists of doing the above until you are satisfied with the tension. Keep checking on the wheel alignment by making sure the centre of the tyre lines up with the mudgaurd bolt on the frame. Double check with a vernier caliper and listen/feel for any roughness in the transmission and readjust accordingly.
I've been a bit over cautious this time and have decided to check and readjust regularly until I get used to the adjustment method. Bit worried about tightening the chain too much in case the hub or motor bearings get damaged.
What is the pivot? I have a plastic covered ball bearing that the chain runs over (a chain roller is maybe what it's called) but I don't know what the pivot is. Also I spoke to R&M about fitting the same chain tensioner as on the mountain Rohloff.
They replied that
Now that I know how easy the chain tensioning is to do I may not bother.
They replied that
Now that I know how easy the chain tensioning is to do I may not bother.
Dmitri
Active Member
When I mentioned the pivot, I meant Haibike's way of tensioning dual-suspension bikes, i.e.:
![Haibike-SDURO-FullSeven-LT-7-2018-004-1140x760[1].jpg](https://forums.electricbikereview.com/data/attachments/26/26961-7fe02dc2eda08caec67f232a8fc0739c.jpg "Haibike-SDURO-FullSeven-LT-7-2018-004-1140x760[1].jpg")
I don't know if it's even compatible with R&M Delite. There's no dedicated point on the pivot arm where to attach it.
As far as the Slider, I think the correct term is removable dropout, I don't know why they call it a Slider, German mistranslation maybe?
Anyways, I own such a dropout. I actually bought a set (left+right+screws), cost about €100.
It's the solution R&M is using right now to get tension reasonable. Recommended bolt tightness is 15Nm. You only get the bolts, no hardware for what the bolts screw into. Just saying.
R&M uses a standard Rohloff tensioner though I suspect it doesn't matter unless you use the Wipperman Connex 7E8 or something equally thick in which case you might be in trouble and need to double-check.
