Why Put 12 Speed Groups On Bafang Ultra Bikes?

Picture of your shifter please? You can control your dropper and shifters on the same buttons ?

Two buttons...

compare the buttons to the screenshots of the app
 

Attachments

  • CA5FEF90-45F6-43B6-A13F-B7130D535F41.jpeg
    CA5FEF90-45F6-43B6-A13F-B7130D535F41.jpeg
    521.8 KB · Views: 462
Maybe the last update on this thread but on topic I think...

My first ebike but as usual I am geeking out on customizing. Reading on the topic of drive line wear, specifically chain wear; a chain at $60ish only lasting a few hundred miles or even 600 miles represents a major COA expense. I am going to start a thread somewhere and track my driveline wear and costs. If not In this forum I will update yall.
 
My wallet may not like what you introduced me to today. What bag and drink holder on your Jones?


I hear you and don’t go here:


The bag is from Jones. The clamp for bottle is by problemsolvers. One source is Universal Cycles but maybe Amazon. There are two sizes so take note.
 
@kurt_s how do you like your Jones bar? More specifically, how comfortable is the bar's 45 degree angle?
I'm thinking of switching my drop bar on my gravel bike to a Jones bar.
 
@kurt_s how do you like your Jones bar? More specifically, how comfortable is the bar's 45 degree angle?
I'm thinking of switching my drop bar on my gravel bike to a Jones bar.

Getting off topic. Maybe DM

So I am an aging dirtbike guy moving into ebikes. Knew I wanted full suspension because of that background and I knew I wanted speed and utility to haul things. Camping up here in the PNW is great but I knew I would use a moto for most of that so I basically decided to build an ebike SUV instead of an offroader.

The 45°I think would be fine but maybe do like I did if you are going from drops to a more more upright. I bought a cheap adjustable stem from Amazon so I could experimentwith reach and height. Once I decided I bought the more ridged fixed solution.

Here is the OEM stem, the adjustable and the final on the bike.
 

Attachments

  • 457E3DFA-54EB-49EF-BDE5-33FF901F547D.jpeg
    457E3DFA-54EB-49EF-BDE5-33FF901F547D.jpeg
    302.8 KB · Views: 363
Back in 2014 I got a cheap fat bike. The bars and height sucked. I was looking for a reach and height solution for old wrists. SQ labs had a great trekking bar but not US available. Found the original Jones bars, but there was nothing that worked well enough to bring them up and closer until I found the Satori. As you say Satori makes quality products.
 
Update on driveline concerns, I got a chain wear tool and will use it to report chain wear in longer term. However, I decided to replace my original chain which was an SRAM even though it did not show any “stretch” at all. The chain cleaned and freshly lubed, I would occasionally get a slip and thud on re-engagement. I suspected the chain more than derailleur adjustment so I replaced the SRAM with a KMC DLC-12 chain. After 60 miles and no engagement events I believe the new chain is the reason for better performance.

I do not see or don’t think I see any damage or wear to the cassette (SRAM XG-1275) but this is my only 1x system and the teeth are not symetrical like I am familiar with so hard for me to say.

So with two great rides using all the cogs liberally, I plan to leave things as they be for now. With this new knowledge cleaning and lubing the chain every ride seems like a good idea in Seattle going into fall and winter.
 
Last edited:
Kurt_s, I've been using Rock N Roll chain lub and I like it. It cleans and lubs the chain. Great stuff and really easy to use.
 
I really should start a new thread but I have a WW motor not a bike...

I got ANTs in my eye. The gear selection, cadence, heart rate and speed go to this heads up display. Why? Because I can. Don’t judge heh :) The gear readout is cool because it is teaching me to anticipate being in the right gear.



@pushkar it would be fun to get human watt input and amp draw too but again this is just for giggles really.

The little red LED is on a remote to the heads up. To the left you see my thumb throttle and the AXS gear shifter.
 

Attachments

  • B3F6889B-941C-45D6-B894-0A5AC1CEEFA6.jpeg
    B3F6889B-941C-45D6-B894-0A5AC1CEEFA6.jpeg
    299.3 KB · Views: 306
  • D704F41B-4E4A-4E86-865E-153DBAC15500.jpeg
    D704F41B-4E4A-4E86-865E-153DBAC15500.jpeg
    215.6 KB · Views: 324
Last edited:
Wow. That’s pretty cool.

The controller reports motor temp, amp draw(watts), cadence, torque etc so that’s already on the Bafang bus if you can read it. The DPC 18 display is limited but the data is already being pushed through / on the primary cable. 😊
 
Wow. That’s pretty cool.

The controller reports motor temp, amp draw(watts), cadence, torque etc so that’s already on the Bafang bus if you can read it. The DPC 18 display is limited but the data is already being pushed through / on the primary cable. 😊
Yeah Lenovo has human watts via an ANT. So the Bafang torque on the BUS is just a function from the torque sensor not output from the motor?

Amp draw and gear would be the most useful in the heads up but human watts potentially from the spindle would let you use all the trainer programs.
 
Bafang BUS (the one you have) is UART. Just FYI.

1. The controller is not reporting torque explicitly but it can be exposed as a parameter. And yes, that is just from the torque sensor (not the output from the motor).
2. The motor torque will vary depending on the gear you are at and what the motor RPM is... I will check if the motor "RPM" (stator RPM) can be reported.
3. Amp draw is already available on DPC 18 (switch from watts to amps).


4. Reporting the gear - tell me more about that - the motor doesnt have any gearing that you can change .. the gear reduction is constant for the moment. What would be good to report here ?
 
1The torque from the sensor should work for a poor man’s watt meter. I was looking at pedals with sensors but they all the clip in style and even if you melded the parts with a non-clip peddle I am not sure the reading would be accurate enough.

2 & 4) The gear position is coming from the position of the derailleur. Which is fine because I don’t really care what the motor is outputting just me via the torque sensor on the spindle. As opposed to pedals sensor as I hypothesis above.

3) I don’t have an ANT interface signal of battery draw to go to Garmin or heads yet, only the 970c display in my case but it is desirable because you can see how much less you draw by keeping a higher cadence. Which relates back to why I told myself 12 gears and nifty shifting would pay dividends in range; but the $/range.added is penny wise pound foolish of course.

All the ANT+ feeds are captured in your ride profile on the Garmin so in theory your could use that data to analyze how effecient you are with battery management. Your range/speed etc.. I will email you some ride exports.
 
Last edited:
Late to this thread, but I also have a Luna Apollo with the 12-speed SRAM GX drivetrain. I love having a wide range of gears, since I ride on varied terrain, including steep hills and I use the motor to assist me, not to be the main propellent. There have been tests done on chains, and the SRAM X01 chains are among the strongest made, even compared to 10-speed chains.

I am considering the WW motor/controller upgrade. One thing stopping me is that I really like using the EggRider since it lets me use my phone as both bike display and GPS/map/direction display.
 
Back