(#7) [M2S] (updated Feb 15, 2020) YaHoo!! My 2018 KUSH at day 551 and mile 10,000..

Sic Puppy

Active Member
(Jan 2021 update: I am attaching the following link to my posting(s) located over at the BikTrix ebike companys' EBReview forum site:
As of today, Jan 5th, it is a work-in-progress. It should make current M2S ebike owners really appreciate their very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ is no small investment. You be the judge.)
ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).
Well, I have finally made it to the 10,000 mile marker on my mighty 2018 M2S KUSH dual-suspension 750 watt rear hub beast and, after 551 interesting days, I am still absolutely smitten with this wonderful toy. As I was standing there taking photo's of the computer data display cluster (photo's are shown at the end of this post), I realized just how rock solid and utterly dependable this KUSH has been. Oh sure, there have been a few “situations” along the way, but they were remedied, so onward and upward was the most excellent result.

I always listen to music when doing my long 40+ mile bike rides. Occasionally, the battery in the stereo speaker or the MP3 player runs out of juice. I am then treated to a VERY quiet and “tight” bike ride for the duration. The lack of sound thus brings home to me just how well built this beast is.

Today I did a 55 miler just so I could crack that 10g barrier. It was 23 degrees out when I left and 38 degrees 4+ hours later. Yesterday I did a 63 miler. It was even colder-- high of 33.. I was reminded (once again) how adversely low air temps affect the distance available from the ebike battery. What is 50 miles during the summer is suddenly 30-35 miles in the cold weather. Just so ya know..
You would think that after a certain number of miles ridden, there would be nothing left to inform you viewers about. However, updates are a part of the game. So, here goes:

Over the past 10,000 miles, my mighty KUSH has been relatively maintenance-free. The greasing of the rear shifter cable, the re-greasing of the front wheel bearings (18 loose balls), fixing the snapped seat tube, replacing the disc brake pads, and finally overcoming the fiasco known as the Fat Tire Flat Tire Escapade are the only issues/problems I have had with this marvelous beast.

At the 5,000 mile point I replaced the original ceramic disc brake pads with these rascals:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHP55IY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. They have performed flawlessly during the past 5,000 miles and I will soon be replacing them with another set. I figure that every 5,000 miles is a good maintenance mark.
After my initial (back in mid-2018) doubts about them being over-kill, I have become very appreciative of the Tektro hydraulic disc brake installed on the KUSH. They are pretty much maintenance-free. I do highly recommend that you purchase the oil kit for just in case. I have used it a few times for various situations and it pays for itself the very first time you need it:https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Tektro-Service-Kit-Am/dp/B004589OQ4/ref=pd_cp_468_1?pd... A few very important items contained in this packet are the small gray o-rings. They are handy to have for if/when you lose the ebikes' original black ones. Also, the brake levers contain the reservoir for the pink fluid. You will see 3 screws on the top plate of each lever. The large screw is NOT a hex/allen head-- it is some type of "star" head (it is also the screw to use). DO NOT even bother with the 2 outer (smaller) screws. They go to the same place as the one larger screw. Underneath those 2 smaller screws is a delicate black diaphragm. Should you remove those screws/the diaphragm, when you do re-attach the items, if you use too little tightening pressure on the 2 screws, the diaphragm will leak.. If you use too much pressure, the diaphragm will crimp and leak. It will drive you nuts, too, trying to figure out where the “leak” is at. Just go with the one big screw.
Sometimes when you think you have a oil leakage problem, it may just be that the small hex head adjustment screw, located in the cusp of each brake lever, has backed itself out. This gives the illusion of oil loss. Just tighten it a little and see if that remedies the situation. I had that happen twice to me. Lesson learned.

Another disc brake item that may interest you:
In my other threads regarding my KUSH ebike, I have made mention of unscrewing/removing the rear disc brake housing to facilitate an easier re-installing of the (complicated) rear hub rear wheel assembly. I always dealt with the 2 allen head screws which held the housing to the bracket (usually black). The bracket, in turn, has 2 allen screws that affix it to the frame. The disc housing-from-bracket method entails the re-alignment of the housing (for brake pad alignment to the disc plate) every time. However, if you instead (as I discovered) remove the 2 allen screws that attach the bracket to the bike frame, the pad/plate alignment will be the exact same as before you removed the bracket. Just don't over-torque the 2 screws.. Also, if the disc plate is out of alignment during the re-install, check to see that the torque washers and regular washer(s) located on the wheel axle are in correct order. They are each the thickness of a nickel (5 cents). Also, see if the chain has slipped off the smallest rear cassette cog (you should always have the rear cassette on the smallest cog when removing the rear wheel. That way there is no guessing as to which cog the chain should be resting on during the re-install).
[[[[ Addendum on Feb 15, 2020:
My 2018 KUSH now has 11,200 miles. The other day I noticed that my rear hydraulic brake lever had extra "stroke" required when applying it. After squeezing it 2 or 3 times, it would return to normal-- for awhile. My 1st thought was that the cold weather of late (7 degree to 25 degree 4-hour rides) was the culprit. Then, I thought that the hydraulic system had developed a leak. Then, I thought the small hex screw on the brake lever had backed out. Then, I thought about how the current set of brake pads (the link above) now had more than 6,000 miles of usage and maybe, just maybe, I was being told that it was time for another replacement. Since they are so very easy to deal with (especially when compared to a hydraulic liquid situation), I did the evil deed. A 10 minute operation. A piece of cake. And, it remedied the problem 100%. So, what I'm relaying to you readers is that your mighty beast will indeed let you know when "it is time".
Since I'm doing this addendum, I also want you to know that I am still using all the original components/equipment that were on the Beast: chain,, rear cassette cogs,, rear derailleur and cable,, front fork/rear air shock (both completely dependable).. I wanted you to be aware of this factor because, in my perusing of various site "threads", I have noticed that, on some mid-drive ebikes, owners are having to replace rear derailleurs/rear cassettes/chain/ front chainring as often as every 1,000 miles due to the severe torque/strain that the mid-drive motor setup applies to the drivetrain. In my case, that would have meant 14 times (in a total of almost 15,000 miles-- 11,200 on KUSH and 3,400 on WhiteyFord). I can't even comprehend that kind of upkeep on any bike..
My KUSH just keeps on keeping on. By the way, the white 2019 R750 (WhiteyFord) now has 3,400 miles. ]]]]

Another item to check on a regular basis: The 2 kickstand-to-frame bolts. I discovered one to be missing on WhiteyFord. Fortunately. I had bolts of the correct size. Also, the kickstand has an adjustment (up/down) screw located on the underside. Have someone hold the bike up while you adjust the kickstand length. If you use 3" tire to replace the 4" knobby tires, this will be of great benefit to your sanity.

I have used the following tire combo on the KUSH since mile 2,500:
26”x3” tire: http://store.ruff-cycles.com/ruff-cycles-ruffer-tire-v2-26x3-cream.html .. Yes, I had to send all the way to Germany for these sucka's (the website has some very interesting 3” fat tire options).They were installed at mileage 8,100. Their tread seems to be very long lasting. Prior to these puppies, I had the very efficient,and ultra-longlasting (more than 5,000 miles and still going), blue 3” Duro (brand) tires mounted up.

26”x2.5” tire:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Maxxis-Hookworm-26-x-2-50-Tire-Steel-60tpi-Single-Compound/283145507309?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


inner tube:https://www.walmart.com/ip/LOT-OF-3...Schrader-Valve-Bike-Inner-Tubes-NEW/649278540 inflated to 17psi..

This “10,000 mile” thread would have been posted a few months earlier if it were not for the following:
My Newest ebike toy: The 2019 M2S(brand) R750 (model) 750 watt rear hub, white frame (color), size Medium -- aka WhiteyFord.. Delivery date: July 11, 2019 (114 days ago) – current mileage is 1,904..
Oh, it's true, it's true. I just had to buy another varmit. If you have read some of my other threads, you know that, in May of 2019, I came within a hair of buying a 2019 R750 StepThru model. The factor that canceled the deal was the 24” tires used on StepThru models. I wanted 100% compatibility of ALL components of both M2S ebikes for possible use in the future just in case parts—especially electronic parts-- became “scarce”. Lets face it, once you begin adding up the cost of individual components, it doesn't take long to realize that just going ahead and buying the “whole cow” (while it is still available) is the logical way to go.
I had the Joneses for about 30 days afterward when that StepThru deal went down the tubes. I then decided that, what the hell, I'll spring for the white frame R750, hereafter referred to as WhiteyFord (because of the white frame). Readers of a certain age+ will know who Whitey Ford is.
I had a 40 day waiting period as the newest beast sailed the mighty Pacific ocean. So, to pass the time, I got on the internet and started ordering “stuff”: carbon fiber handlebar, blue anodized stem/seatpost clamp/hand grips, gold seatpost clamp/hand grips, gold and white 45tooth crankset, white seatpost, white Charge (brand) saddle, blue/gold/black pedals, and halographic decorative duct tape (used inside the rims to replace the stock red tape), https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074SB8YCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1: I use Silver on WhiteyFord and Orange or Purple on the KUSH rims.. I even bought a 30.4mm x 400mm seat post to be decapitated/sacrificed down into the seat tube to fend off a possible tube breakage (like the KUSH had) in the future.
I already had a carbon fiber aero seatpost, carbon fiber saddle, blue/black carbon fiber stem, long bar ends, handcuffs, new blue Duro 3” beach cruiser tires (I am REALLY sold on those puppies-- the tread lasts forever and a day).
When the large box finally arrived at my condo on July 11, 2019, I was very pleasantly surprised to discover the the rear rack was already installed AND that the rear taillight was actually wired into the rest of the electronics-- no need for AA batteries, etc. here.. The rack is very impressive. Its construction is first-rate. As an added bonus, during shipment in the box, the rack acts as a bumper/protector for the entire back section of the frame. Naturally, I am not a rack user so, off it goes ( I now have, in my parts bin, unused rear racks from 3 ebikes).. As for the tail lights 3 feet of wiring, I was able to cram it all up into the big fat downtube (where the battery is mounted) instead of cutting it off.
There are also a very nice set of fenders included. They are easy as pie to attach, too. I attached the rear fender onto the KUSH (with 3” of tire clearance) and took it for a 50 mile ride.. Works like a champ. I already have two plastic rear bobber fenders (actually made for a Harley motorcycle) that I adapted to my Kush. One fender is black, the other one is white. So, they will each have a fat tire bike rear tire to cover now..

This newest bike, the white framed 2019 R750 (WhiteyFord), has taught me a very interesting lesson. This is the type of realization which ONLY comes when you have more than one of the same product.
When I bought the ($1,800) 2018 KUSH, it was in direct comparison to my ($1,500) 2018 Xtreme (brand) Sedona (model) dual suspension 500 watt rear hub ebike. Naturally, the KUSH was so far above and beyond the Sedona in every sense of the word that I look upon the KUSH as my $3,300 lesson learned ($ 1,800 + the $1,500 Sedona boo boo). Everything about the KUSH simply blew away the 2 other ebike(s) I already owned (both Xtreme brand). It accelerates like a rocket and handles very well for its size/fat tires.
So, when I replicated the KUSH with WhiteyFord, I became aware of something: these 750watt rear hub BaFang motors LOVE to power on down the road. Kind of like a hyper dog tugging at his leash. With the KUSH, I was fixated on maximum mileage per battery charge -- 60 miles was not unusual. But, to attain that high of a number, I never went above PAS 2. If anything extra was needed, I just pressed the thumb throttle for the few seconds that “turbo” power might be needed. And so this procedure continued for 8,000 miles. Then I bought WhiteyFord.
Whenever I took WhiteyFord out for a ride, it always seemed to “lag”. Its power was sub-par to the KUSHs. It seemed like I was dragging a small boat anchor behind me. Whazzup here?? It was at that time (the 200 mile mark) I decided to increase the PAS on WhiteyFord up to 4 just because I figured that the extra oomph would erase the “drag”. Sure the mileage would decrease, but I now had TWO 16ah batteries (plus the 10.4ah battery for the SEDONA-- it fits the M2S ebikes with a slight modification) so I would just carry another 11 pound battery in my hydration backpack and still be able to do 50+ mile rides. And so it was.
It was from this little episode that I discovered that these 750watt BaFang rear hub motors just LOVE to Get It On Down The Road. Holy dooty!! I ran WhiteyFord at PAS4 for the next 200 miles. Seldom was mr. thumb throttle even needed. At PAS4, WhiteyFord cruised along at 17-19mph forever with just the slightest pedaling movement. I could almost hear that little motor just singing with joy at finally being released from the confines of Slow Speed, More Miles mindset. Now I mix it up on each ride with 50% PAS4 and the rest with PAS3/PAS2. I can actually “feel” the difference in the motor itself as a result of this experience.. Much looser.. Spins very freely.. And, the mileage penalty is negligible.
So, all of you rascals with new ebike toys using the BAFang 750w rear hub, just let 'er rip for the first 200 or so miles. The long term reward will be immense. I can even tell the difference in the KUSH at 8,000+ miles. It makes for a very happy BaFang beast.. A higher PAS setting is actually better than lower PAS/thumb throttle in a regular usage situation. Again, you would only become aware of the aforementioned item(s) if you had an apples-to-apples type of situation (like mine has been).

By the way, I am getting the following PAS//mileage data:
In regards to the “combo” below: I begin with a 100%/ 5-bar charge. When the first 3 bars finally disappear, I make a note of the miles traveled and also go up one PAS setting and remain on it until the battery shuts down (0 bars showing), thus giving me the total mileage.
Kush @ PAS3//38miles (15mph).. @PAS4//30miles (17mph).. combo PAS2//27 + PAS3//13= 40 total miles.

WhiteyFord @PAS3//46miles (16mph).. @PAS4//40miles (18mph).. combo PAS2//38 +PAS3//15= 53 total miles.

As for the M2S battery:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...1.0&pvid=df70be09-2466-4f34-b41d-d9219b0e4b81

Also, on the photo at the end of this post, you will see a small panel displaying "41%" (of battery power remaining).. That is the Battery Capacity Indicator monitor. It will also display the "volts" if you touch the small orange center button. By doing so, what I discovered is the following: Your 48 volt 16ah battery is actually a variable between 53.4 volts (at 100% charge) down to 43.5 volts (at 5% charge). That is a 20% downward power source as you use up your battery power. Thus, at 100% charge, your ebike feels like it is turbocharged.. At 5% charge, it is very lethargic and is noticeably losing giddy up-go.
That is the reason for you to go up one PAS as your battery power/bars start disappearing-- you are actually giving the less powerful energy source a kick in the bootie to continue with adequate oomph..
Apparently, a 21ah 48v battery will fit the frame of M2S fat tire ebikes. Food for thought..
Also, for some reason, the Xtreme Sedona 10.4ah battery “fools” the M2S's ebike computer display unit and, at 2 bars still remaining (@21-26 total miles ridden), the ebike just shuts down-- no warning at all-- just goes to blank screen “off” mode.

The 2019 WhiteyFord ebike has the following multi-tire combo setup:

26”x3” tire: https://www.ebay.com/itm/191813190529 .. My blue tires were purchased as a set of 2 plus 2 inner tubes for $60.00, but that sale has apparently ended. The tire in the link is the same brand, except for being black..

26”x2.5” tire:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Maxxis-Hookworm-26-x-2-50-Tire-Steel-60tpi-Single-Compound/283145507309?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


inner tube:https://www.walmart.com/ip/LOT-OF-3...Schrader-Valve-Bike-Inner-Tubes-NEW/649278540 inflated to 17psi..

By the way, these DURO tires last a LONG time. I had another blue pair installed on my blue KUSH and they had over 5,000 miles on them with a lot of tread still showing. I stumbled across the (now-mounted on the KUSH) 3” crème colored tires and decided that it was time for a change in “flavor”. As for the 2019 WhiteyFord, I just went ahead and installed brand new Duro blue tires on it since it was brand new, too.

One last note about the 3-tire combo:
I have, between both M2S ebikes, a grand total of 9,404 miles [KUSH since mile # 2,500 + WhiteyFords' 1,904 total miles] on this unique set-up so far.. My 3-tire combo has continued to perform flawlessly without ANY air loss/flat tire issues. Not even a gradual reduction in tire pressure. I used to check it weekly; now I'm not checking it at all. I just squeeze each wheel/tire. All is well. To be able to go on my daily rides and not have to carry a spare inner tube, patch kit, multiple 16oz CO2 cartridges and inflater, tire levers, etc. is a godsend. Of course, now I always carry an extra 7 pound(10.4ah) or 11 pound (16ah) 48v battery on every long (40+ mile) bike ride. Just goes to show ya that it's always gonna be something.

Another major difference between the KUSH and WhiteyFord:
The KUSH is dual suspension.. WhiteyFord is a hardtail (front suspension only).. With all the miles (8,100) ridden on the KUSH prior to the arrival of the new toy, I had forgotten just how plush a dual suspension bike really was. When you factor in the 60+ pound weight of the KUSH, any bump should be noticed-- but not with the KUSH. When I first began riding WhiteyFord, it just amazed me how “non-plush” it was. Being front suspension only, I always got “push” on the fork, whereas the KUSHs rear suspension would even out/cancel out that same effect. But, now I have progressed to the point that most of my WhiteyFord rides are done with the front fork locked out, thus making it a “rigid” bike. My standard tire pressure for both ebikes is 17psi. The routes I ride nowadays are not really all that bumpy anyway-- the purchasing of the KUSH because of its dual suspension was just a force of habit from my off-road mountain biking days. However, now that I have WhiteyFord, I am more inclined to be a little “looser” with the KUSH and will take it to riding destinations that I wouldn't have considered pre-WhiteyFord. Too much fun.. For those of you having to deal with less than smooth riding surfaces: Go ahead and buy the KUSH.. You will also need to buy a high pressure shock pump--This is the pump I use; https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...-bleed-valve-300psi?nosto=productpage-nosto-3.. My “in-my-birthday suit” weight is 180 lbs.. My fully loaded out-the-door cycling weight is 200 pounds. I use 200psi in my rear air shock. It has always worked like a charm for my riding style.

I wish I could be able to ride each bike while blindfolded. I swear that the only way I'd be able to tell the difference, even with an 8,000 mile advantage of the (10,000 mile) 2018 KUSH, would be the soft ride of the dual-suspension ebike. They both have the same gitty up go. Quiet.. Smooth.. Effortless.. Birds of a quality feather, fer sure.

Another shout-out to M2S bike company in regards to their spec'ing the included 48v/5ah battery charger with a built-in cooling fan. The unit that came with the 2018 KUSH is the same orange trimmed charger also available separately for $99. The charger included with the 2019 R750 (WhiteyFord) is solid black. Both units remain absolutely cool to the touch. I use both chargers on both bikes.
As for going from “battery 0%” to 100% charge, for some reason, the KUSH battery always take 4 hours and 30 minutes, no matter which charger is used. The WhiteyFord battery always takes 5 hours and 30 minutes using either charger. Same battery (48v/16ah) for both bikes, too, but always 1 hour longer for the newer (WhiteyFord) ebike. Oh well..
For comparison, the 2018 Xtreme (brand) Sedona (model), also a 48v battery ebike, uses a 2ah battery charger (no cooling fan) which is always “warm” by the time a full charge (green light) is attained. Again, 4hours and 30 minutes is the norm for its 10.4ah battery. The 2018 Xtreme TrailMaster Elite (piece of chit), a 24v/9.6ah battery ebike, uses a charger box which is always so hot by the time the 100% charge is attained, that I have to put it on little blocks and aim a house fan at it to help keep it cooler. Kinda disconcerting to grasp a charger which gets THAT hot.

Well, I guess that about does it. I believe that, after almost 12,000 miles (both M2S ebikes combined), enough is enough. This should be my final posting. I know that I am always over-the-top in my posts and that some of them include redundant data/information (and for that I apologize). However, if you, the reader, get just one good/positive bit of info from those many,many words, then my task was worth it. I know first hand how frustrating it is to be naive on this ebike stuff, or any other new, unknown endeavor. I have invested many, many hours worth of effort, experimentation, frustration, $$$ spent, AND miles ridden, in attaining “mission accomplished”. Thus, those are my own rewards. My lil' peanut brain was nearly relegated to “meltdown” mode on numerous occasions before The Light Came On and I formed a solution to whatever the current obstacle was. I have always felt that my lessons learned can be at least a little bit beneficial to other ebikers.

As for Mountains to Sea(M2S) Bicycles, the company, I have only inter-acted with them via e-mail on half a dozen occasions. After the first few less-than-acceptable responses from them back in early 2018, I have since been VERY impressed with their business modus operandi AND their diligence in being rapidly responsive (usually the very same day) via email. I guess their positive growth speaks for itself. Also, the instructional videos on their website are always well made. I find their wonderful (and very dependable) ebike products to be absolutely outstanding in every sense of the word.

I just visited the M2S website for "accessories" (under "SHOP"). They have a greatly expanded assortment of goodies now available. Something not exactly common with most website ebike companies. Definitely worth a look-see.

In closing, I am very flattered, and somewhat bewildered, by the large number of “views” that each of my individual thread posts have generated.
Ride It Like Ya Stole It.
Sic Puppy..
Bye bye..
409834098440985[Regarding the photo's: thebig silver SINOBAND thingie is the stereo speaker I use with my MP3 player. I actually use it mounted on the top of my hydration/CameBak backpack. I just set it on top of the ebike computer display unit for these pic's..
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Thank you for sharing your experience! I'll admit it's a lot of information in one post, but great information nonetheless. Thanks for your contribution :)
Hi Angela,
Thanks for the kind words. Since I have arrived at the 10g mile marker, I have commenced Getting My Ducks in a Row in regards to replacement parts. That being the case, I will post any such info on this post instead of beginning a new one. So, here goes:

Some additional parts info for your KUSH/R750 rear hub ebike-- you're going to need these items sooner or later..

Rear wheel hub spacing: 175mm .
Some fat tire ebikes use 190mm.. Some (M2S ebikes) use 175mm.. Just in case you decide to buy another rear wheel unit..
Bottom Bracket: If you peruse the internet looking for a bottom bracket, you will see they are all 68mm or 73mm; that measurement concerns the overall width of the bottom bracket within the frame. If you measure your Kush/R750, you will find that it is 4 inches, or 100mm. So, when seeking out a new bottom bracket unit, factor in that measurement..
M2S Bottom bracket/axle width: 100mm x 164mm English thread with square taper (not ISIS) axles. I located, and purchased, this unit:
Email from M2S:
You will want to order the 100mm shell with the 164mm axle width.
Headset:M2S has a unique type of unit that uses one size for the top bearing(P03..41x6.5x45m) and another for the bottom bearing (P16..52x7x45mm).
Here Is the website that I bought mine from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/41-41-8-52mm-General-Bicycle-Headset-Bearings-/283644875336?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=584973614609
Email from M2S:
On 11/7/19, M2S Bikes Support <
[email protected]

> wrote:
> Hey xxxxx,
> The upper headset bearing is a vp-p03 (41x6.5x45) our apologies for not clarifying that with you earlier.

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE REGARDING THE HEADSET BEARINGS (posted on Jan. 10, 2020): Soon after arriving at the 10,000 mile point, I became aware of a metallic "clicking" whenever I turned the front wheel. This could ONLY be heard when the bike was stationary, never when actually out riding. I deduced that the headset bearings were the culprit so I went about replacing them with the above-mentioned set. Boy, was I in for a surprise-- those rascals are pressed into the frame and would require special bicycle tools to remove/replace. Either that, or go to a local bike shop to have them perform the evil deed. It was also obvious that they were high quality bearings, too. With a very limited bearing cup area to actually get a "visual" on, it was still easy to see that "grease" was no where to be seen. I decided to just retain those original bearing cup units and just pack the heck out of them (both the upper cup and the lower cup) with my super heavy duty boat axle grease (from WalMart). So, the deed was done -- you do not have to completely remove the fork from the main frame, just drop it down about 1" to allow access the lower bearing cup area (it is hidden up in the bottom of the frame-- just get a flat blade screwdriver to use as a grease packer). Cram the grease up into it, lower the frame onto the fork, pack the easy-to-access top bearing cup unit, refit the conical protective cover, the stem, etc., and you will be good to go. Just remove the extra grease that will ooze out as a result of re-assembly. You should be good for 1,000's of miles. And, if need be, do the procedure again when you hear that metallic "clicking" (if you ever do). It's an easier option than the total bearing cup(s) replacement goat-rope method.

As you will discover, there are many questions which have to be addressed/answered when dealing with internet-only products and/or companies. Sometimes you must really dig in to find what you need to know. There's nothing worse than wanting to order a part only to discover too late that the required sizing information is elusive. Sic Puppy
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Thanks Sic Puppy.

Can you clarify the 'lag' in WhiteyFord vs the KUSH. Also did it fix itself after 200 miles? I'm not sure I understand your observations. Is the top speed the same for both?

"Whenever I took WhiteyFord out for a ride, it always seemed to “lag”. Its power was sub-par to the KUSHs. It seemed like I was dragging a small boat anchor behind me. Whazzup here?? "
Hi Klein Rider,
I apologize for the delay in responding to your question. First off, the top speed of both bikes is the same: 28mph at "throttle only".
As for the lag: Now I'm not sure that WhiteyFord was actually doing it. Having only one of a "toy" (Kush) means that you have nothing to compare it to. However, if a 2nd toy(WF) is introduced, there comes the inevitable comparison.
Differences may be real, or they may be imagined. Either way, upon increasing PAS from 2 to 3, or even 4,on a regular basis seemed to address the situation and nowadays, both beasts are performing awesomely-- even though there is an 8,000 mile difference on the odometers. It still continuously amazes me just how "tight" the entire Kush beast still is. No shakes.. no rattles.. no motor noise, except on "throttle only" and even then, just a low hummm.. Music to my elder ears..