Chargeride
Well-Known Member
Whichever one is working that day
Which brake first?
- Thread starter ThompsonRH
- Start date
GMA52
Active Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Dallas/Fort Worth Area
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
But when they both fail.... which one should you use first?Wait till they both fail then you won’t have to worry about hitting the brakes
GMA52
Active Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Dallas/Fort Worth Area
I am sure I would have a heart attack and not have to worry about it
edobici_forza
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- San Mateo, CA
It depends.
Steep downhill:
Yesterday, riding my Creo down a short, but steep, gravel road (range of 6% - 23%) with ruts...first time riding that trail, I had my dropper down, gripping the drops, and standing on pedals... Initially I slow with light rear braking, to see the looseness of the Category 3 gravel/dirt. then lighten up the rear a bit and add front brake to control my speed (max 12mph) to navigate the ruts crossing the trail. some of the loosest steep stuff I've ridden on the Creo so far. Then I modulated front and rear, as needed.
Mild downhill: Usually I tap the rear brake first, then add the front, modulating it as needed.
Flat: First light rear braking, then finish with the the front brake.
Here is that steep loose section (thanks to Garmin + Strava):
- - - -
I was paying extra attention on the loose gravel, since I slid out on loose dirt, over hardpack dirt on a downhill off-camber turn, riding my MTB, two days prior.
Steep downhill:
Yesterday, riding my Creo down a short, but steep, gravel road (range of 6% - 23%) with ruts...first time riding that trail, I had my dropper down, gripping the drops, and standing on pedals... Initially I slow with light rear braking, to see the looseness of the Category 3 gravel/dirt. then lighten up the rear a bit and add front brake to control my speed (max 12mph) to navigate the ruts crossing the trail. some of the loosest steep stuff I've ridden on the Creo so far. Then I modulated front and rear, as needed.
Mild downhill: Usually I tap the rear brake first, then add the front, modulating it as needed.
Flat: First light rear braking, then finish with the the front brake.
Here is that steep loose section (thanks to Garmin + Strava):
- - - -
I was paying extra attention on the loose gravel, since I slid out on loose dirt, over hardpack dirt on a downhill off-camber turn, riding my MTB, two days prior.
Last edited:
On dry pavement the front brake does most of the stopping, because weight transfers forward under braking. So for a quick stop you generally want both brakes, with a smooth squeeze on the front and the rear used to stabilize.
I don’t really think in terms of “which first” — I feather the rear, then progressively load the front. In low traction (wet/gravel) you use less front and keep everything smooth to avoid lockups. Rear-first as a habit can mean longer stopping distances, but grabbing front too hard is what sends people over the bars.
Rule of thumb: both brakes, smooth + progressive, adjust front/rear bias to conditions.
I don’t really think in terms of “which first” — I feather the rear, then progressively load the front. In low traction (wet/gravel) you use less front and keep everything smooth to avoid lockups. Rear-first as a habit can mean longer stopping distances, but grabbing front too hard is what sends people over the bars.
Rule of thumb: both brakes, smooth + progressive, adjust front/rear bias to conditions.
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