WattWagons Ti CT Fattie

[Fast n' Furious]

Gumbo Does Archer Paddle Shifter

The box was 12" x 8" large for it's contents, but I liked what I saw.

I'm using a Magua Shiftmix. The $160 Question was will this clear my Domino Throttle housing? The apparent single option (one bolthole) was not encouraging (need 2 - 3 mm lower for optimum placement), but the materials were nice.

After charging, setting it up (using Archers app on my Galaxy) it was recognized and I proceeded w/ install.

Largely, clearance is ideal. ie: turning the throttle, the thumb knuckle clears and my thumb has complete control even while clenching the grip.

In the photo it looks clear, but (look closer. it's crooked. lol) when I went on a cruise I found (in my irrational exuberance) I'd tightened a bit cockeyed and it came loose - 6miles from base. An example of - a failed attempt of - the experimenter effecting the outcome.

So, The Bad

The only fault encountered is the angle of the Archer control module itself (see last photo, using a shiftmix).
Even Archers own mount forces brake levers to be mounted at inappropriate angles.
It lack correct geometric dimensions clearing typical high-end brake levers.
Careful adjustment of the mounting screws and a thin washer between the bottom clamp hole - causing it to sit slightly oblique - produced 'barely enough' lever clearance - but that's a coarse threaded screw (more WTF) requiring every mm of bite. I know better than to crank it down. I tried WolfTooth's Magura facia Leftie shift mount. Same story, but worse.
Nothing to do with having a throttle. The angle of the module body needs to be altered about 5 degrees.
-
The Different
The off/ on switch is as (mil-spec) ornery as ever was, but now located on the back it's actually usable, and I notice I can't simply press the paddle to turn back on after a 'pause shutdown' - as I could with the Legacy Module.
This could be a 'user malfunction', overlooking a setting in the app.

The Improved
The size, of course, but from the outset, testing I noticed the 'whirring' noise on the shifter module start and stop faster.
Riding it feels as though it does engage more quickly than my D1x with legacy button shifter or my other D1x.
Shifting to bigger gears is smoother. The other direction takes less care on 11 and 12T as previously.
I find the paddle ergonomically superior to the buttons.

On to the next tinkering.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

You feel it, huh ?
38miles / 48v = 35% remaining. 0.5846miles = 1% and I have 10% left before I charge.
43miles on 75% of total. Eco L1 felt a but sluggish. L2 still great for uphill. (Inadvertently), I hit L3 and pulled a 6" wheelie on take off.
Do I need a Satiator to keep these cells fit? Using the range from 80% down to 25% charge should provide a real 20miles with plenty of power.

FnF.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Blundered and posted pics w/o explanations.
These are shots of the damage to the MT7e's lever and Archer after a few miles use with the Magura Shiftmix unifier.
(Below) shows the clearance. The shiftmix' angle is fixed resulting in damage to the brake lever and the Archer Module's corner.

The Archer clamp worked fine but had to be mounted furthest from the throttle.
So there I am +%$#@& at Archer not making compatible parts and I notice some bright wear on the adapter. Inspecting closely the casting on the barrel appears deformed, with a bump higher on one side, forcing the bushing to sit off-seat.

So, I filed it round - a bit had to come off. That shots halfway through - when it hit my to document it - it's so damn crazy.
When finished the bushing fit pretty flush, I installed and major clearance. I even put my 'boots' back on and it's clear by over 0.50" fully closed - as in the shot with the lever tied shut.

Tried it over 6miles. Works great. Now to do the fine filing and finish work.
-
From a full charge I've traveled 41miles and I'm @ 47.2volts. That's 0.5857 miles per %.
Looks like +25miles charging to 80%. Even on this lower voltage at 30% charge the bikes blazing fast and seems to be consuming power at virtually the same rate.
I stoked!
Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Hey Rome ... Did a quick run de-anodizing those titanium wire bottle-cages and a couple turned out 'Gold'.
I'd tried them on 'rainbowed'. Ugh. No way ugly. Just as you said, 'not Gumbo'. I almost scrubbed the project - but it's raining out and the chems I needed came in, so why not?
One is perfect raw ti color (on the bike). Two are is a 'straw' color (not perfect), look like raw Gold. One (real SOB to remove) is has some purple.

View attachment 143611

Unfortunately, the one that turned grey has a 'rough' stamping I'll have to sand down. You can see the 'plate mount type on the other side.
It's sold ti wire. Bottles fit great.
It's really raining tomorrow. So, maybe I'll go at it again.

View attachment 143617



Cheers and Happy New Year !!!

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Hey Rome ... Did a quick run de-anodizing those titanium wire bottle-cages and a couple turned out 'Gold'.
I'd tried them on 'rainbowed'. Ugh. No way ugly. Just as you said, 'not Gumbo'. I almost scrubbed the project - but it's raining out and the chems I needed came in, so why not?
One is perfect raw ti color (on the bike). Two are is a 'straw' color (not perfect), look like raw Gold. One (real SOB to remove) is has some purple.

View attachment 143609 View attachment 143611 View attachment 143614
Unfortunately, the one that turned grey has a 'rough' stamping I'll have to sand down. You can see the 'plate mount type on the other side.
It's sold ti wire. Bottles fit great.
It's really raining tomorrow. So, maybe I'll go at it again.
View attachment 143615 View attachment 143616 View attachment 143617



Cheers and Happy New Year !!!

Fn'F

Here's the golden cage and the other two

 

[Deacon Blues]

Paul, is there any chance your handlebar will make contact with the bottle/cage on a sharp turn?
I just noticed that my UC Pro has the same bolts for a bottle holder.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Tried three different types and none whatsoever with cages, but all will hit the 24oz bottles.
Bars are clear until to 9:30 (or 2:30). Keep in mind, my stem's an 'inverted' 80mm and yours is a 60mm pointing up. A shorter stem would slightly lessen the distance before contact.
You can't go to or past those angles riding.
It crossed my mind that a soft bottle in the right side mount actually acts as a bumper, eliminating unintended fork swing and 'wire stretch' issues.

 

[scrambler]

“The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge”.

Lot of that on the internet these days

 

[Fast n' Furious]

A few improvements arrived
I'm forgoing ti bars that add weight over my alloy's and sticking to ti that reduces weight.
This 164gm saving was a natural.

The B17 Imperial weight 574gms. The B17 Special 410gms.

Impressions:
The saddle feels significantly more broken in right out of the box than the Imperial.
The workmanship on the large rivets is not as exact.
The hide has a few diagonal lines - it's not the best cut.
Well whatever. A ti frame actually costs more than a new seat - and you still have to buy the ti nose plate, and it's $24 shipping for each piece - from Italy.
-
What I really want is a honey Imperial hide with the 'man-hole' cut out on a ti frame. This is a logical first step ... if I ever get around to it.
I've only located two companies that do this sort of craft as a business, specializing in Brooks, in the USA. One in Philly and one in Seattle.
-
Rain lets up tomorrow, then it's back on Saturday. A dry Friday suits me for a 15miler.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Very nicely clean up all tidied up, tolerance are tight.
FnF thanks for posting tourqe values.

You like titanium. These ti ring-gear bolts just arrived.

12 days wait from eBay here in several colors - you like gold?
Also, for low to med torque fasteners, ti washers are available here, on Alibaba. A dab of grease and no corrosion from steel washers.
You need frame/ bottle/ accessory attachments on a CF frame ? Click here for 'P-Clamps and bolt it on cleanly.
You peep the YBN SLA211 chains ? 116 links of ti rollers ... but my chain's 124 links, plus 10 more = 134 links.
So I'd need two chains just to ante up in the game.
YBN's other models come in 136 links outta the box. Hmmmmmmmmmm.
Buy 2 Chains, to create 1 chain and have 98 spare links?
I'm still hoping WattWagons hooks up a Rohloff and my 'belt drive' dream materializes.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Yes. Rod holder on right side of 41mm fork tube. Using p-clamps and standard type, ABS marine rod holder - except this one is a shorty and weighs half normal. Not the shiny, junky types, a matt finish. The real shnitzle. Liked it so much, I ordered 3 more.
Mounting parts on the way. About 3oz total. Not the ugly stuff you see being marketed. It looks classy.
-
It's rain for a few days and I'll be installing Hexlox on the non-magnetic saddle clamp (Ti) and post (Alloy) bolts.
It's the tube clamp - $600 in parts - that's most vulnerable. One Allen key and 10 seconds, it's gone. That party's over.

Details, details, details. Both God and the Devil. Like replacing all zip-ties with clips and shims.
(You want some, I have a ton. Black, Silver and Blue. PM me w/ an address, I'll drop you a set).

Alloy type are a bit of a pain to 'off and on', and I get freaky about 'scratches' while pressing or prying w/ steel tools.

Wiring's all set for 'wrapping' bar areas I grip and parts arrive soon for my 'custom fender clips' - formed to the Mastodon fork's crown, w/ rubber isolation backing. That zip-tie tangle's got-to-go.
Totally eliminating buzzing/ rattling - that vibrating fenders produce from direct contact with fork/ frame, I'm contact cementing a neoprene diving suit rubber gasket - over those ugly, useless holes - on the SKS Fender.
I should market my clip design.
The song I hear is 'Time out of mind'. "It's perfection and grace. It's the smile on your face ...'
Don't scoff too much that she's being set up to fish. Gumbo will always be elegant toting my custom carbon, glass matrix Rainshadow stick, built with titanium guides, exactly to my specs - and the fully tricked-out Van Stall Reel that rides her.

WTF'd you think Rome? A plastic milk crate and duct-taped-on $100 Penn Surf Rod/ Reel combo ???
Maybe some zip-tied and bungeed trash bags ?.
WattWagons created my canvas. Now I create my art, not commit aesthetic nihilism.
-
Current ride Impressions
The 'Special' Saddle must have come 'broken in'. It feels distinctly different from the Imperial - which is still 'as new' (stiff as a board) after 200 miles. My 'seat-bones' imprinted on the Imperial after 18 miles.
Shifting through the gears - in 'Economy Mode Level 1' - the bike's simply too fast.
My take is an even larger ring gear (52T) and lower ratio low gears (the bigger cogs) might be helpful.
Not top speed, it's about shifting twice as much - and drivetrain wear - when it's useless overkill.
-
Loving it.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm reaching out for 'pannier' advice.
I've my own attachment paraphernalia that's perfectly suits my Axiom Fat Rack , but need the right bags.
Grey - possibly w/ black accents.
Bike's theme dictates no bright color`s. Somber.
Not for the excess weight, I'd create them in Leather. Light as possible tops the list'.

Any input appreciated.

Fn'F

 

[Foxhound68]

I'm reaching out for 'pannier' advice.
I've my own attachment paraphernalia that's perfectly suits my Axiom Fat Rack , but need the right bags.
Grey - possibly w/ black accents.
Bike's theme dictates no bright color`s. Somber.
Not for the excess weight, I'd create them in Leather. Light as possible tops the list'.

Any input appreciated.

Fn'F

I quite like Ortlieb stuff ! Not sure if they have your colors but there stuff is solid AF it clips on very nicely and securely

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Good morning Brah!
Just placed my order for Titanium bolts for my chain ring. Gold I like.
Wtf $20 bling why not. @Fast n' Furious .
I'm looking at Brooks saddles for my next upgrade. I hear from many members that it has to be broken in for that luxury feel on the sit bone.

I erred, hope you don't. The set I ordered are 5mm depth. My ring gear uses the 3.5mm.
I think the 5mm are for using a bash plate. So I ordered a correct set here, on eBay.

A must have is one of these chainring nut (5mm Hex drive) sockets. Other 'slotted blade' type tools (Parktool, etc) damage the bolts.
That company - MUQZI - also make excellent clips/ buckles. shims.
Didn't Hydra's have a problem with the display fitting (some) bars?
Or was it just that these display's clamp blows out so easy? I used longer (M3 20mm) bolts with washers and 2 piece plastic 22.2 to 31.8mm shims.
No, I'm not drilling or shaping the washer seats. The area sustaining the force has been increased 3 x - and it's metal, not plastic (that blows out at - 1nm torque) lol. 'Two-fingers' tight is correct, but what a shitty poorly engineered fail point - on such an otherwise fabulous device?

We can mount the display (in my case being farsighted, out front) on 22mm section of bars perfectly - or 31.8 - or 25's.
-
The RSK Stem Cap only exist because it's a parasite on in the bikes neck.
The 'expansion plug' design's quite nice, but being doomed to that cap's a deal breaker.

That's a nice port to run stuff outta (Ala BMX style) and through the bottom of the fork, that's being wasted.
I'm thinkin' a light system (LED Beam attached to top fork crown), w/ 3 x (USB port charged) 5000Ma 21700's in the tube and control buttons in bar ends - one non-latching for mode. One latching on/ off.
I've already created a harness through my h-bars.
The drawback's toting around a couple pounds of fixed extra weight I only use on rare occasions.
-
Obvious, it's rain all day, so considering failure is always a possibility and I'd have to install a Star Nut, this is a good day to 'hack'!
Sawwed off the threaded chunk (on the right in vice), so I could use the compression fitting mechanism with my titanium cap (or any standard cap)/ tension bolt.

Once shortened (+ a little file work) and Hot Damn. It works !!! Best of both worlds.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Good morning Brah!
Just placed my order for Titanium bolts for my chain ring. Gold I like.
Wtf $20 bling why not. @Fast n' Furious .
I'm looking at Brooks saddles for my next upgrade. I hear from many members that it has to be broken in for that luxury feel on the sit bone.

Looking good w/ Gold and Black.
The Brooks Imperial that came with my bike is not broken in a bit I can see. The Special is much softer.
Both are a value.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

New YBN arrived. Did you pre-treat your chain?
Check this video out. Tons of good stuff. Look how clean his chain remains !
Mineral Spirits and Denatured alcohol are fairly cheap. PTFE and Paraffin too.
I've always changed my vehicles oil, do my own maintenance, assess and come to ken the parts.
It keeps me at the mercy of one honest idiot I believe in. No need for nagging suspicions when you know you broke something.

These chains are from Taiwan, not PRC.
I can't speak to their 'chains', but Taiwanese Lian li PC cases are a '10' in every category. I still have two PC's I built using them, and created seven more for friends. Here, look yourself. This and me, kickin' it in the Herman Miller chair.
Buying (100% unobtainable stuff in the USA) somewhat 'special' Japanese lures and rod building parts (ti, again. lol) through various Taiwanese shops, they were all reliable, communicate great/ promptly, and did 'good business' - during this pandemic.
-
About ready to chop Gumbo's tail a bit.
Reality: First thing to make rear contact's the fender.
Me: All messed up; total clutz unendingly backing into stuff; unrepetitive, certainly beyond rehabilitation; demanding the tire makes 'first contact'.
Fender: (Reminds me of employees espousing how required they are! I call it 'you need me bitch' syndrome and it's always a prelude to them being fired).
First, I need to find a correct 'stay to frame' clip for a single rear stay.
I'd use Jones' stays, but it appears they mount on the fender's inside. Also, the black alloy may need to be shortened and the cut will be ugly bright metal. His silver color, adjustable stays are $70 ea. + $20 shipping (and tax) and a rear fender is $185 + $20 ship and tax.
So, yeah. $300 for a complete rear fender - I have to cut, drill and fit, and that may not provide correct clearance, attached on the inside.
He does show a 'snow-bike' with the stays on the outside (but those looks like 3" tires) and he says 'May need bending and drilling for best fit ?
You try and 'bend' that arch on his alloy stays - good luck. It has FOUR 'hard bends' that will snap - in my experience.
The final deal breaker came when the weight isn't listed, nor the stay shown on a 'measurable' grid background usable to ascertain fitment.
Lack of transparency and offering a product (that must be customized) without an accurate blueprint to assess dimensions are major red flags screaming 'train wreck ahead'.
Adding grossly overbuilt alloy parts that may weigh more than steel, or having to return items that 'couldn't possibly fit' - all because it's exact size wasn't provided ... for products that are 50% overpriced from the git-go, made me tuck tail and run.
-
I can speak up for the Hexlox people, though perhaps if they dropped 50% of their (over)service, and reduced prices by 50%, customers'd be much more satisfied, regardless 100 'extraneous appendages' were laid off. Pricing within sane reasoning is a big selling point.
First I 'Hexed' (I know. Woo-hoo its 'hexed' - I'm still asking where the Bagels are for the 'lox'?) my post clamp.
Being titanium, it's the non-magnetic type and instructions are not included. Online search video shows the obvious - and a couple things less so.
I'd just say "Remove round mag Disc (photo of item in fingers).
To attach, waive hexlox insert in it's key (photo) over Disc.
Remove RED plastic over adhesive (photo)
Insert (photo inserting item in 6mm hex hole) and hold in place firmly for a moment.
ALLOW ADHESIVE TO SET for at least 10 minutes before using.
-
The glue (cement) on the thin steel plate insert is outstanding stuff - now.
That indicates urethanes - which become brittle over time.
In a pinch, contact cement would work well - if you know how to use it and follow instructions.
-
Ti nuts not arrived yet, I replaced the steel Saddle Clamp bolts with ti's to check the fit - and discovered the stock, steel bolts are actually 5mm too long. Ordered proper, 25mm M6 round heads w/ washer types in ti.
It's not just losing 12gms. More like an anal 'titanium puritanism' psychosis - because it costs so little I can get away with it.
Saddle to KINEKT titanium cost is <>2% $0.80gm. $363.00lb. Reasonable to me. lol.
Into my third year with 'bikes', I'm coming to understand what I thought was 'insanity' long term users suffer from.
-
Hey Rome. Most torqueing we deal with is 6nm - 5nm's even better for ti., but 6 is 'correct' for SS.
5nm 'T'-Handle' (about $19 HERE) torque wrenches make it easy and teaches me which fastener application is which by doing it.
300mile check of torque on entire bike's 5nm parts (90% of our fasteners) takes 5mins.

Ride on

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Well now. Did everyone get the email from WW, re; Innotrace & New Hydra ?
'Gen II' Snakehead's are bangin'.
BIG Seller. Soot. lol. but @ 68lbs?
Say it ain't so? OUCH. And I know WW does the best, so that's 'Big Boy's' bike, already at prize-fighter weight.
It 'tows 200lbs' ? Must be a joke. In SP3 (with tires fat enough) it'll tow a Prius - easily.
-
(Patiently) waiting for my programming cable, no way I bother the company (are we there yet; are we there yet - ad nauseum).
They get them, I'll get them.
-
My experience, the care WattWagons took healing my problems - waaay above normal - got me riding in October - and it's heaven.
So yeah, I'm still giddy.
-
Coming too close to nothingness, too many times for it to be 'cat' genes, I'm anal about specs and check the machine at least weekly.
This bike, every part I alter or check is/ was torqued precisely.
Humbled by this craftsmanship, so enthusiastic of anticipated enhancements, I'm waiting with baited breath for the programming cable.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

You like titanium. These ti ring-gear bolts just arrived.

View attachment 144521 View attachment 144522
12 days wait from eBay here in several colors - you like gold?
Also, for low to med torque fasteners, ti washers are available here, on Alibaba. A dab of grease and no corrosion from steel washers.
You need frame/ bottle/ accessory attachments on a CF frame ? Click here for 'P-Clamps and bolt it on cleanly.
You peep the YBN SLA211 chains ? 116 links of ti rollers ... but my chain's 124 links, plus 10 more = 134 links.
So I'd need two chains just to ante up in the game.
YBN's other models come in 136 links outta the box. Hmmmmmmmmmm.
Buy 2 Chains, to create 1 chain and have 98 spare links?
I'm still hoping WattWagons hooks up a Rohloff and my 'belt drive' dream materializes.

But alas, they're too long. The 3.5mm's I then ordered and installed 'work', but a better option - I'll go with when installing the 52t - is a bash plate.
The saddle awaits the (ordered) perfect length (25mm) ti bolts. The M6 ti nuts have arrived, so it's all titanium from the KINEKT up to the Hide on the Brooks.
I'm ready to wrap my bars, ordering distressed Buffalo Hide in 'honey' flavor from Leh - GO USA !!!.
Now I'll be able to show off the wiring with three grip positions on the bars - forward; medium and upright.
The parts came in to make these fenders proper. I didn't like

This. ................ So I went with WT's plastic 40mm's and switched - in the front. Now, as you can see Mastodon's beautiful reflection, cast into the fork shines - and I lost 30gms from the stainless.
Next week I'm tearing down the rear fender and lopping 10" off.
Already measured 50 times. Parts are in.
No more bashing fender (and re-re-readjusting) after backing up when fat-arse tire boinks first.
This entails eliminating the Axiom rack's entire lower bracket; using one stay, instead of the stock two stay set-up; dumping the (heavy) curved, steel adapters. Bet I'll lose 1/4lb of junk ?
My 70th birthday in March, I turn to fishing and FTW.
Bike will perform into September - only being cleaned, torque checked and oiled after each use.
Lets see if this fat-bob WW Cross Tour Hardtail, Heavy-Metal Girl can 'love me long time', put up with me and stay the course.
-
Having located and obtained (the ultimate) rack clips, I'm creating my own panniers - in colors I prefer.
I can fail ten times and come in under cost buying something close. What are the odds I succeed? lol
-
Hoping to nail another +45lb Halibut this year - though I give it all away. Such a bland fish.
I'd like to film and publish the whole thing, but this is an El Nino and I may well be busy w/ fishing, or moving down 100miles of Cali Coast.
Public trans Rail won't let me take her w/ me? Guess I'll charge her in a Motel - nothing ever changes, eh?
-
Anyone with real experience using GPS, I'd like some advice on 'offroad' types - for marking waypoints.
-
My Toolkits fit in a Bottle cage and clears, upper and lower ( thank you Deacon Blue for enlightening me)

after a bit of experiments, I've decided on the WT Morse as best for H2O Bottles (hey Deacon, you with me?) My stem's upside down.
My bars are lower than yours. Moloko's and whatever fork will clear easily.
Take care

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm with you in spirt, but I've got to say my pennies, as I'm seriously looking at ANOTHER ebike.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm with you in spirt, but I've got to say my pennies, as I'm seriously looking at ANOTHER ebike.

I'm anticipating the value of money will decrease a great deal to accommodate the present mean between $14.00 hr and $140.00 hr middle class earnings range and (USA) midrange, middle class wages will settle @ $53.00 hr.
So, Labor costs - agricultural too - will double.
For me, I moved deep city and dumped the car. Gumbo get's the $$$ a vehicle would cost me.
Now, that's over. Parts have gone sky high and I often have to buy more of the same from blunders in fitment estimates or application.
It was a 'cheap date' to fast-track my education.
The West's de-coupling from PRC is expanding - and in all honesty, the PRC's ti tubing is a Russian product. lol
You have a wealth of experience. Look how you spotted the flaw in the cage placement.
I'm sure you have a special machine in mind and I'll follow that thread for sure.
Perhaps I'm incorrect and somewhat I am half the time, but I predict that UC you have will be quite valuable ... when the dust settles - unless it's radioactive. LOL
Something that hit me. I noticed after changing up (from 46t) to a 50t, the additional tension created made the 11t cog surer (best word I can describe). Makes sense in my feeble mind. Tighter chain tension favors lower toothed gears and disfavors larger cogs.
Slop is the big deal with timing chains on IC engines - my only touchstone.
I invite you to read this link.

Best regards - always,

Fn'F