WattWagons Ti CT Fattie

[Deacon Blues]

I've seen a couple of photos of the new Helios and (surprisingly) it now has an aluminum frame.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

All clowning aside. Years ago I googled "wirecare" and I found https://www.wirecare.com.
Never bothered with other sources since then.
You can jump to the 'split-tube' by clicking here.
By the way. In my experience, that spiral wrap is terrible stuff that can damage wiring.
The illusion of it 'protecting' often leads hard edges cutting right between the spirals. Like in a frame entry point.
I must say - with some experience - the wiring WW is using is top quality. My other machine is lesser grade and more susceptible to stretching.
Installing and removing spiral is brutal on the wires. A lot of stretch involved as wires wrap around each other when spiral is wound.
But that's not what's the big problem. It's wasted productivity/ time and frustration, repetitively doing, undoing and redoing a manual job.
Spiral is the wrong material. We require split weave. This is my favorite for the task.
F6 Woven Wrap
has been a favorite of mine for longer than eBikes have. Easy access to wiring, it zips right off and takes a couple minutes to zip back on - perfectly. 20 times in the time it takes to just remove a spiral once. I'm using 3/8's to cover shifter cable, rear brake line and eight 22awg wires.
3/16ths will cover most stuff.


https://www.wirecare.com/interest/a...neral-wire-protection-finishing/f6-woven-wrap

 

[Deacon Blues]

F&F, what diameter to you recommend?
Ron

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Out for a 10miler. Bike is amazing. I feel like a kid again. Staying in Eco L1. I stand up and crank up a major two-block hill ! Second childhood - no doubt. The most fun and best eBike workout I can remember. Yes, that good.
Transitioning through tight 'S' turns, I feel the tire carcass shift, front and rear - not quite at the same time.
Bike bumps, then locks right in, tracking down the new angle.
Oversteer transition? Weak sidewalls? Are my tires are too low pressure?
I went down to 15lbs to check out the 'comfort effect'. Boing, boing. Getting confused about contrary infor for Vee MC 4.0's.
20lbs seemed hard, but I didn't test on 'slalom course'.

Wiring is fine for the moment. Pretty much finished replacing bolts with ti. titanium Waterbottle Cage.
I have a couple sets in Black and in Rainbow. Also, I'm changing the head set bolts to black.
Anyone know what's up with those two large screw holes in the headtube?

I was mistaken. The shifter placement is off, one notch outboard (since corrected).

In person, the lines are quite swoopy. Kickstand/ bottom Rack Bracket are still (appropriately) SS bolts.
I'm no fan of that mirror. Need small round type.

I using one of Domino's soft grips on my left, and the Daytona on the throttle.

I installed the adjuster and custom spring-set. KINEKT's dialed in. Ti clamps and small stuff, like black ti bolts on rack extender arms.

Okay. Yes I'm having fun! I wanted a bike that would push me hard - and I'd like it.
-
Right now I'm seeking input on changing out the ring gear - from My present 46t, to a 50t - and info on the best chain.
I see it has two connector links - and eight (or 16, depending how you count them) links of chain between them.
If I do require another link (most likely), do I remove the eight and substituting a nine link section? Do I have to buy a new chain ?
It's a Shimano CN HG701. On very close inspection, it appears to already have damage. Not a good sign for durability. My shifts are pretty tight.
I'd prefer to take no chances. KMC; Shimano Dura Ace or Integra ?
You're folks that know. Any info appreciated.
-
Ride on !!!

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

F&F, what diameter to you recommend?
Ron

For sure, I like the 3/8" for these wire sets. Ability to get fat enough where needed.

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Out for a 10miler. Bike is amazing. I feel like a kid again. Staying in Eco L1. I stand up and crank up a major two-block hill ! Second childhood - no doubt. The most fun and best eBike workout I can remember. Yes, that good.
Transitioning through tight 'S' turns, I feel the tire carcass shift, front and rear - not quite at the same time.
Bike bumps, then locks right in, tracking down the new angle.
Oversteer transition? Weak sidewalls? Are my tires are too low pressure?
I went down to 15lbs to check out the 'comfort effect'. Boing, boing. Getting confused about contrary infor for Vee MC 4.0's.
20lbs seemed hard, but I didn't test on 'slalom course'.

View attachment 140793 View attachment 140804
View attachment 140795 View attachment 140796
Wiring is fine for the moment. Pretty much finished replacing bolts with ti. titanium Waterbottle Cage.
I have a couple sets in Black and in Rainbow. Also, I'm changing the head set bolts to black.
Anyone know what's up with those two large screw holes in the headtube?

View attachment 140797
I was mistaken. The shifter placement is off, one notch outboard (since corrected).
View attachment 140798 View attachment 140801
In person, the lines are quite swoopy. Kickstand/ bottom Rack Bracket are still (appropriately) SS bolts.
I'm no fan of that mirror. Need small round type.
View attachment 140802

I using one of Domino's soft grips on my left, and the Daytona on the throttle.
View attachment 140803
I installed the adjuster and custom spring-set. KINEKT's dialed in. Ti clamps and small stuff, like black ti bolts on rack extender arms.

Okay. Yes I'm having fun! I wanted a bike that would push me hard - and I'd like it.
-
Right now I'm seeking input on changing out the ring gear - from My present 46t, to a 50t - and info on the best chain.
I see it has two connector links - and eight (or 16, depending how you count them) links of chain between them.
If I do require another link (most likely), do I remove the eight and substituting a nine link section? Do I have to buy a new chain ?
It's a Shimano CN HG701. On very close inspection, it appears to already have damage. Not a good sign for durability. My shifts are pretty tight.
I'd prefer to take no chances. KMC; Shimano Dura Ace or Integra ?
You're folks that know. Any info appreciated.
-
Ride on !!!

Fn'F

Did you see this? New paddle shifter from Archer Components.

Paddle Remote

Brand New for 2022 - Paddle Remote for MTB! Fully compatible with the D1x Trail shifter Micro-adjust enabled for on the fly adjustments Fully sealed against the elements Amazing ergonomics with haptic shift response Durable, hydrophobic Cerakote surface finish MicroUSB rechargeable battery and...

archercomponents.com

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Did you see this? New paddle shifter from Archer Components.

Paddle Remote

Brand New for 2022 - Paddle Remote for MTB! Fully compatible with the D1x Trail shifter Micro-adjust enabled for on the fly adjustments Fully sealed against the elements Amazing ergonomics with haptic shift response Durable, hydrophobic Cerakote surface finish MicroUSB rechargeable battery and...

archercomponents.com

I like it. I wish I could try the shifter and see if it fits. I've been through three matchmakers. The Magura shiftfix is the best I found, meaning it fits 'okay', placement still 1 - 2mm too high.
When installing a twist throttle there must be slight clearance between throttle body and any other clamp-on parts.
The pressure (esp if you tightened down the throttle first) of a clamp that's touching increases ever so slightly when you lock it down and it deforms the throttle body - best I can figure. More than once, I violated that rule, fired up the bike and the throttle was 'full on'. I tried hand engaging an disengaging to no avail.
Happened on more than one brand throttle and soon as I took the pressure off the body, throttle worked normally.
No idea if it would be a problem with the Domino.
-
Having the broken Domino, apart and seeing everything in there), much of the body is extraneous; useless housing; bumps cast into the body. If it was for 'more strength, they failed because the plastic is too thin in other areas.
Albeit the 'flying battery' may have hit it (possibly cracked it) the whole front blew out. My thumbnail will dig right into the thin plastic.
I won't go into the engineering fails, but if Domino really wants a place in the eBike market, I suggest they (1) completely redesign that housing for a slimmer fit (2) use a thinner cut off switch, and (3) eliminating all 'outer ring' bolt through areas (using a slotted, twist-lock interface instead, to join the two halves) - where it can be mounted with wires up, or down and fit as many matchmakers/ shifters as possible - dump all the humps and use the ONE screw next to the gear housing on the side where the wires exit (last photo, left retaining screw).

Destructive testing reveals a lot. The casting of the one half that sheared is thinner (1.2mm thick) than the other (1.5 -1.8mm thick), larger half.
Contacted Domino about a new plate. Could happen. If not I've got some cool spare parts. lol

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Here is screenshot of it.

I see all good things about that bike.

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Here is screenshot of it.

Buy it, you know you want it. Seriously, I do a lot of regular bike builds and make some decent pocket money doing it.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Did you see this? New paddle shifter from Archer Components.

Paddle Remote

Brand New for 2022 - Paddle Remote for MTB! Fully compatible with the D1x Trail shifter Micro-adjust enabled for on the fly adjustments Fully sealed against the elements Amazing ergonomics with haptic shift response Durable, hydrophobic Cerakote surface finish MicroUSB rechargeable battery and...

archercomponents.com

Thanks for the alert. If the 20% sale stays on for another week, may have to buy one.

I'm a sucker for downsized components and the more I look at it, the better it look.

Fn'F

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Thanks for the alert. If the 20% sale stays on for another week, may have to buy one.
View attachment 140913
I'm a sucker for downsized components and the more I look at it, the better it look.

Fn'F

I‘m tempted to get two for my bikes that have the D1X. Love the smaller footprint.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Looks like you living da dream!
Da Gumbo' Wattwagons Titanium bike knock off 20 years off your age?

You knew I would.
Went out of an 8miler night ride this eve.
Cold tires were no problem in my slalom test. No collapse of sidewall noted now. I must be a couple pounds light of air for warmer tires.
Came home beat. Beyond pumped, noodle legs.

Happy Thanksgiving !!!

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Looks like you living da dream!
Da Gumbo' Wattwagons Titanium bike knock off 20 years off your age?

You knew I would.
Went out of an 8miler night ride this eve.
Cold tires were no problem in my slalom test. No collapse of sidewall noted now. I must be a couple pounds light of air for warmer tires.
Came home beat. Beyond pumped, noodle legs.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

It's a 26" wheel frame. Not a fan of it.
Happy Thanksgiving Cuz.
Happy Thanksgiving you all!!!!!

Might make a nice rear hub drive ?

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I like this.
With Petaluma water bottle battery.
For riding the neighborhood.

It was my first choice - until WW didn't go forward with it.
The Gates and IGH could be tensioned to work - and the belt meant a lot to me.
The problem was lack of utility or fat tires for FS bikes.

View attachment 140000

Recommend these, Vee Tire Speedsters, 26X3.5 so not as wide as you have now. Still decently wide on an 80mm rim. Still need to run these at higher pressures, I run 20 psi front and 22 psi rear. Your other choice would be Vee Tire Zig Zags, 26X4.0. Can’t comment on the performance of the Zig Zags as I’ve never tried them. Jumbo Jim’s are also a nice fast rolling all around tire.

I confess, fat tires have been quite a study. Still in my 'formative years', the din lauding 650b was overwhelming. Contrarians were all posts from 2016 - until I looked deeper and see the math:

"27.5” may seem like the next thing for fat bikes, but reality is, if you want the best rollover, lowest possible PSI, the best traction, the best efficiency and the best selection of tires and wheels available for fat biking, then 26” wins hands down over 27.5”."
See: Singletrackmac Jan 2021.

The 3.5 Speedsters are enticing (that means on my short list).
-
Perhaps you can tell me why replacing the 46t with a 50t ring (both being 'WolfTooth Drop-Stop B 130BCD') would cause a problem ?
My understanding is (given the frame/ tire clearance)...

... even if I didn't add any links, at worst it'd be the largest cassette cog (the 40t) that'd be unable to access as the derailleur stretched too tight, not #11.
Am I missing something important?
Second question: Which (I believe you said, (edit) or was it Scrambler?) KMC (was your choice) chain would you run for this application?
My chain is 67 half links -134 links total - with 10 half links - 20 links - separated by quick-links).
My assumption's I need a 138 link chain. I read the KMC 138e is too thick to shift into 11t.
Got any suggestions?

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Recharged last night. Now after 16miles I'm @ 54.2v/ roughly 27% used. I think I'll see a 40 - 45mile range.
-
That pannier contains an 8lb spiral ham; 8lbs of beer; 5lbs of Jasmine rice and 2lbs of fresh Ahi - I'll sear to perfection.
Tires now set at 19lbs, turning either way and nada hint of handling problems. For me (23lbs) that's 'medium' shopping.
A bike that won't work should not eat get a charge.

(Edit) It turned out 43 miles when I hit around 46.5V. Next, I'm testing from 55.5V (80%).

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Cool yeah. Cockpit management is up there too in importance. I deleted throttle on mine. I named it Da Ridiculous Bike after sharing pictures with my daughters living on The Mainland, their reply was "That's ridiculous". So it stuck.
I got Titanium bolts from Acer Racing it's in the bag. I'm gonna cut it open with my Strider after a couple Russian martini.
I should not have to remove wheels to change out rotor bolts.

Be sure and use loctite. I use the 242 (24200) Blue. Say's it's 'High Temp' - 300f - and thinking 'Rotor's get hot', that worried me - until I checked and the 542 Brown Magura uses has the same 300f rating.
Looking into bicycle disc brakes temps, it came out that 'hot' means 180f. Huh?
But, but, but - those glowing rotors? Yes, nice visuals, but the brake fluid would be boiling off if the rotor was glowing. lol.
That may not be for mad-dogging down-hill on a 65lb 'bicycle', but 300f is a long way from 180f - and the MDR P rotors by design, separate the contact area from the body of the disc creating a heat sink. You judge it.
542 Brown's for hydraulics, pipes and fittings - not fasteners.
Why all the Magura rotor bolts I've seen come with 542 Brown on the threads, I just can's say.
Brown's supposed to be assembled immediately, not cured-dry on a bolt and assembled some other day. Yet the Magura rotor bolts come with Brown coated bolts, fully cured some time in the past ?
To 'glue' a bolt and nut together requires the loctite to dry while in contact with both parts. lol.
Brown get's quite brittle, so upon delayed assembly, the threads will just crunch it off and it'll leave some residue in between.
That's not how loctite works. lol.
The Blue, you can wait several hours after application to a fastener to install. But Brown fully cures in 6 minutes to 6 hours, depending on the fastener materials. For steel, it's 15 minutes.
My solution's to do-it-myself.
-
At the other spectrum end, I use Finish Line Ti Prep anti-seize for bottle cage, clamps - most stuff.
If you're installing ti on steel or alloy (likely since most washers are steel or alloy), it works well - and prevents electrolysis corrosion.
-
Don't believe Acer's hype.
By weight, ti is stronger than SS, but for the same volume, Ti is not as strong as higher end SS.
Pound for pound, alloyed titanium is the strongest metal on earth.
The frame on Gumbo is pretty massive. A 1.75" downtube. I wish I had all the 'schedule' data
Tito also use Gr5 6AL/4V Titanium

Like these sweet bottle cage bolts @ $1.36 ea.

Lot's of good stuff penciled in for December. The 100ohm resistors are in and the 470's'll be here tomorrow, so my throttle experiment's about to get interesting. My object's wider control of the power, not subverting the firmware and increasing access over 90nm - which it does anyway in Sports mode, I assure you.
I swear, we need a fluid drive tranny where the motor powers a pump, not a chain and you lose 6% of power - but gain everything.
You lose at least 4% with the present systems and have a bunch of parts that are doomed to 1000mile deaths, and/ or pay a gazillion and (since we're running too much torque output) ride with IGH's rated for "130nm" (Rohloff)/ "160nm" (Kindernay) with a voided warranty and cheer 'Yay !!!' when it breaks.
USA has breakthrough motor's, now we need (choke, gasp) 'breakthrough' (1960's) drivetrains !!!
Let us pray the Big 3 don't step in - be a 3 year Warranty (with mandatory factory service).
I think transmissions will be the next thing coming. But I'm a dreamer.
Go antique tech USA !!! We can do this !!!

Happy Holidaze - it's gonna be a Hairy New Year, so 'pray for peace' !!!

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Da Ridiculous Bike handlebars and rotors are bolted with Acer Racing Titanium bolts. I was going to put red loktite but tech that works on my Bulls advice against it. As you said I need blue. I will get around to it this weekend.
These ones in the bag are for Da Bull.
They not shiny it's more satin. Yes they are expensive but gives me peace of mind.

Very Nice stuff. I prefer 'satin', 'bead-blasted' or 'raw'.
The Blue LT comes in a Red bottle. Just get 'Loctite 242' - no color confusion. The liquid's Blue.
Torque?
I rely on this table - more or less. For ti a bit less torque than steel.

Bottom Bracket​
Bottom bracket cups		300-360 lb/in (32.9-40.7 Nm)
Tandem eccentric		75-100 lb/in (8.5-11.3 Nm)
Single-speed eccentric		75-100 lb/in (8.5-11.3 Nm)
Brakes​
Pad fixing bolts	cantilever, direct-pull, U-brake	70-80 lb/in (7.9-9 Nm)
Pad fixing bolts	road calipers	40-60 lb/in (4.5-6.8 Nm)
Arm fixing bolts	cantilever, direct-pull, U-brake	70-85 lb/in (7.9-9.6 Nm)
Caliper fixing bolts	on metal seatstays	70-85 lb/in (7.9-9.6 Nm)
Caliper fixing bolts	on 'curved' carbon fiber seatstays	55-60 lb/in (6.2-6.8 Nm)
Disc brake mounting bolts		100-110 lb/in (11.3-12.4 Nm)
Disc brake adapter mounting bolts	using a 5mm allen wrench	100-110 lb/in (11.3-12.4 Nm)
Disc brake adapter mounting bolts	using 4mm allen wrench	60-65 lb/in (6.8-7.3 Nm)-
Disc attachment	bolts	45-55 lb/in (5-6.2 Nm)
Disc attachment	Centerlock attachment	350 lb/in (40.2 Nm)
Cable clamp bolt		50-70 lb/in (5.7-7.9 Nm)
Cassette​
Lockring		261-434 lb/in (30-50 Nm)
Crankset​
Crank bolts	Bontrager
	Sport cranks with a single M8 bolt on each arm	336-372 lb/in (38- 42 Nm)
	Big Earl cranks with a single M12 bolt on each arm	384-420 lb/in (43.4-47.4 Nm)
	Race X Lite ATB cranks with a single M15 bolt on each arm	384-480 lb/in (42.4-47.4 Nm)
	Race XXX Lite road	600 lb/in (67.5 Nm)
	all other Bontrager cranks with a single M15 bolt on each arm	420-480 lb/in (47.5-54.2 Nm)
	Shimano
	Shimano cranks with double pinch bolts on each arm	106-132 lb/in (12-15 Nm)
		With double pinch-bolts, gradually loosen or tighten, alternating between bolts as you do so
	Other
	with a single 6 or 8mm bolt on each arm	350-435 lb/in (39.5- 49.2 Nm)
Chainring bolts	steel	106-124 lb/in (12-14 Nm)
Chainring bolts	aluminum	71-79 lb/in (8-9 Nm)
Derailleurs​
Front derailleur	band clamp bolt	25-35 lb/in (2.8-4 Nm)
Front derailleur	braze-on mounting bolt	44-60 lb/in (4.9-6.8 Nm)
Rear derailleur mounting bolt		70-85 lb/in (7.9-9.6 Nm)
Cable clamp bolt		35-52 lb/in (3.5-5.9 Nm)
Forks​
Rack or fender strut bolt		20-25 lb/in (2.3-2.9 Nm)
Frame​
Water bottle bolt		20-25 lb/in (2.3-2.9 Nm)
Rack or fender strut bolt		20-25 lb/in (2.3-2.9 Nm)
Rear derailleur hanger bolt		50-70 lb/in (5.7-8.0 Nm)
Handlebar​
Aerobars	extension clamp bolts	60 lb/in (6.8 Nm)
Aerobars	elbow pad mounting bolts	45 lb/in (5 Nm)
Bar-end clamp bolts		40-60 lb/in (4.5-6.8 Nm)
Kickstand​
Kickstand		160-200 lb/in (18-23 Nm)
Pedals​
Pedal axle		350-380 lb/in (40.2-42.9 Nm)
Rear suspension​
HiFi	shock mounting bolts	85 lb/in (9.6 Nm)
HiFi	lower linkage pivot bolt	85 lb/in (9.6 Nm)
HiFi	dropout pivot bolts	85 lb/in (9.6 Nm)
HiFi	pivot axle bolt	275 lb/in (31.0 Nm)
Fuel EX / Top Fuel	shock mounting bolts	133-164 lb/in (15.0-18.5 Nm)
Fuel EX / Top Fuel	pivot axle bolts	95-115 lb/in (10.7-13.0 Nm)
Fuel EX / Top Fuel	rocker bridge bolts	50-75 lb/in (5.7-8.5 Nm)
Remedy	shock mounting bolts	125-200 lb/in (14.1-22.6 Nm)
Remedy	pivot bolts	125-200 lb/in (14.1-22.6 Nm)
Remedy	dropout pivot bolts	125-150 lb/in (14.1-16.9 Nm)
Remedy	bearing pinch bolts	65-105 lb/in (7.3-11.8 Nm)
Seatpost​
Saddle clamp bolts	Bontrager seatpost with bolt across the seatpost head	120-130 lb/in (13.6-14.7 Nm)
	single bolt using a 6 mm allen wrench	65-125 lb/in (7.3-11.3 Nm)
	double bolt using a 5 mm allen wrench	125-200 lb/in (14.1-22.6 Nm)
	double bolt using a 4 mm allen wrench	45-60 lb/in (5-6.8 Nm)
	New Madone saddle clamp bolts	125-140 lb/in (14-16 Nm)
	For seat fixing bolts using a 13 or 14 mm open end wrench		180-220 lb/in (20.3-24.9 Nm)
Seatpost binder​
Binder bolt	aluminum seatpost	85-125 lb/in (9.6-14.1 Nm)
	carbon fiber seatpost	65-80 lb/in (7.3-9 Nm)
	new Madone seatmast clamp bolts	44-61- lb/in (5-7 Nm)
	Equinox hidden binder	65-80 lb/in (7.3-9 Nm)
Shift levers and brake levers​
Brake lever clamp	mountain or road style	53-69 lb/in (6.0-7.8 Nm)
	mid-bar lever	20-30 lb/in (2.3-3.3 Nm)
	Hayes hydraulic	25-35 lb/in (2.8-4 Nm)
Stem​
Stem expander		100-120 lb/in (11.3-13.6 Nm)
Handlebar clamp	welded stems	100-120 lb/in (11.3-13.6 Nm)
Handlebar clamp	forged stems	150-180 lb/in (17-20.3 Nm)
Handlebar clamp	with carbon fiber handlebar	100 lb/in (11.3 Nm)
Steerer clamp		100-120 lb/in (11.3-13.6 Nm)
Stem angle adjustment		150-170 lb/in (17-20.3 Nm)
Tandem stoker stem	extension adjustment	120-140 lb/in (13.6-15.8 Nm)
Tandem stoker stem	seatpost clamp	100-120 lb/in (11.3-13.6 Nm)
Wheels​
Axle nuts	front	180-240 lb/in (20.3-27.1 Nm)
Axle nuts	rear	240-300 lb/in (27.1-33.9 Nm)
Fixed-gear hub	lockring	250-300 lb/in (28.2-33.9 Nm)
Disc brake	Disc mounting bolts	45-55 lb/in (5-6.2 Nm)
Thru-axle	Manitou forks pinch bolts	45-55 lb/in (5.1-6.2 Nm)
Tricycle	front wheel pinch bolts	150-280 lb/in (17-20.3 Nm)
Tricycle	split rear rim joining bolts	180-220 lb/in (20.3-24.9 Nm)

Hope this helps !!!

Fn'f

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Buy it, you know you want it. Seriously, I do a lot of regular bike builds and make some decent pocket money doing it.

Well, I hope you get a finders commission for the link! I used it and still got the 20% off - once did that with a 3-year-old offer 'link' and paid 1/10 the going rate price for unlimited multi-line 888 phone service - that I sold to another company for 50 x what I paid. lol
So, $175 all inclusive wasn't so bad.
I wonder if the paddle colors are interchangeable?
It appears to use the same bar-mount, so the Magura plate I have should work for me (and my throttle. lol)

If not, I created a 3mm shim - that can be filed a bit and be 2mm.
BTW. The stock placement looks like a real Pain In The Thumb Knuckle.
The compromise/ trade-off between brake lever placement and shifter fails dismally.
It'd need 'reach-around' levers for the paddles to be correct - for me.
I dumped the 'extra' clamp for 'brake faceplate'/ mixmatch/ matchmaker types, but not impressed with WolfTooths.
Magura's works better - for Magura levers, one'd hope so, right?

Again, thanks for the tip,

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Very nicely clean up all tidied up, tolerance are tight.
FnF thanks for posting tourqe values.

Of course. Always happy to share accurate info.
Replacing Gumbo's 46T was an eye-opener. The derailleur wasn't over-tensioned by a 50T, so I switched; went through the gears several times (cool I can tilt the bike on the kickstand); seemed fine; hit the road and stopped in at LBS for him to check out. First question was 'so, what's wrong'? A: Nothing. I didn't lengthen the chain, but it works great.
After going through the adjustments and running through the shifting several times, he agreed 'it works great'.

27miles later (I'm at 50.4V), my verdict is: The 50t (w/ 11 x 40) is a perfect match.
Shifts are faster, noticeably improved. I can double-click the Archer and smoothly shift two gears in L2.
11t is the tricky cog to be on before power starts yanking the chain.
Soon, WW will have our programming cables and (if the parameter's are available), I'll stretch the input latency to 1/3 turn. Now: 1/4 turn of ring = just engaging the 3rd of 3 teeth on 11t cog, and 3 teeth on the 12t.
A longer pause might be helpful. Then: 1/3 turn = just engaging the 4th of 4 teeth on 11t cog, and completely engaged with 4 teeth on the 12t

Peace on earth, good will to men

Seasons Greetings to all !!!

Fn'F