WattWagons Ti CT Fattie

[Fast n' Furious]

Thanks Deacon. I was ready to risk it, but WW said 'no-go for the Fatso' w/ the IGH.
My wiring is a 'ten'. No compromises, no excuses.
Race cars, Aircraft, Boats, Computers, Scientific apparatus. Esthetics mandatory. Now, a new challenge: E-bikes.
Haven't clipped my zip-ties, but

looking tight.
I love mixing organic swoops with hard lines. In my element, a kid in a candy store, but I have the world's most terrible critic to face. ME.
Also, all the help I can give. I like others to be better than me. Only one foot in a Club's door, but even an apprentice, I come with skills.
-
Gumbo had 'first vehicle contact' today. Four lane one way with two left lanes turning left. I'm in right-most turn lane (both are labeled bicycle lanes).
Light changes, I start my turn he races up on my left and turns right, into me, then (he's looking left) drives me into the next lane over.
It was like being chased down. Slamming on the MT 7's, I kicked the car just as my pedal scraped across his fender and he jerked his wheel the other way - me yelling in his open window "what the f**k is wrong with you?"
Inspected Gumbo 4 times. A little scuff and rolled up paint/ plastic on the pedal. That's it.
I swear, I may be old but my reactions continue to save my miserable hide.
I'm so lucky I don't trust any automobile.
So, after clowning the clownable and being clowned-on by blood brother friends (all claiming pre-nuptial rights to name the child), Her official plate arrived (and the usurpers now vanquished to my wall).

It's not over 'till the fat lady sings, so I'm replacing all (appropriate) fasteners w/ ti. My upgraded MDR-P Discs included.

I sure wish Jones would come up w/ some 660's in ti.
Also, I need the perfect compression plug that allows me to use my titanium cap.
Suggestions?

I demand 'safe', a machine able to grind to a smooth screeching halt.
The Magura7's braking is PERFECT. WattWagons even burned-in the pads !!!
Mi Vida Loca w/ Rally Racing in the Big Boy's Seat, you'd near bleed from your eyes and certainly see stars at the stopping gee's.
Can't wrap my head around people saying extreme brakes are 'too much'. User controls the input. Impossible to have 'too much' stopping power.
I've only really tested after converting to the MDR-P's, but these M7's modulate great and are really nice from merely dragging, to hard braking..
Another thing. Even @my 140lbs, the machines geometry provides real control. NO surprises in emergency situations.
FLASHBACK: That guy's fender tagged my tire twice for sure. Bike jumped and went right back tracking on a straight path. No loss of control whatsoever playing 'bumper-cars', bouncing off a blind, 3000lb projectile (kabonk, kabonk) fleeing to the right across two lanes and all in.
Love the plastic types, but not dumping those metal pedals. Saved my bacon when it dragged on that plastic fender and it made that drunk look up.
Maybe some Pedals with spikes, like - belligerent - Semis

????
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Using Archer. Shifting sequence 'w/o crunching ever' in Level Eco L3 is: Stop pedaling. Press button. Pedal 1/8 turn, pause 1 sec. and pedal on.
Hydras in Sport Mode tearing up the off-road must be insane and for athletes waaaay above my pay grade.
Like Master Blaster in Thunderdome. Unstoppable in assuring Methane production.
Just I need a gas-mask. I learn so much from researching that guys input. Great imagination. Write a 'B grade' Script and get one star with no problem.
Me? I want to cruise at 25mph, so I'm leaning heavily towards installing a 52t ring - and three links.
Reasons to the contrary appreciated, seems correct for the city with this much power and long haul.
I'm about ready to add 'storage'. Rear rack top first. Suggestions?

Blundering on,

Fn'F

 

[Flannel Guy]

For Sport mode to be useful off road you either need to climb some seriously sick stuff, have some wide open carriage paths that run mostly straight or have access to a motocross track. No good on single track trails without bouncing off trees. I did a pretty decent rocky, rooty climb that I needed eco3 the other day which allowed me to go slow enough to control the bike but gave me a quick boost whenever my legs made the demand. Either eco1 or 2 otherwise. Don't really need Sport mode to be honest, but it's nice to go up the last hill to my house at 20mph by just spinning the pedals at the end of a ride.

 

[Ebiker33]

It's alive !!! View attachment 137434
More as I have it.

Fn'F

You just can't go wrong with a Titanium frame, they look great, and you know they will last a really long time. Ebike looks great.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

A lot of good things coming to light.
Hunting down where the air went, the LBS 'fiddled' with my all three external fork settings.
He's a good bicycle guy, always been willing to teach me and I've learned a lot from him over the last year.
I just wanted him to maintain the ancillary stuff, was being lazy. Now after having tasted WattWagon's basic settings and been spoiled, educating myself how to get them back on this machine I was now feeling every bump became a big priority.
Lacking experience as a touchstone the Mastodon manual's language baffled me.
My thinking is the knobs are like a faucet. To the right is off.
I wish Loamoaf would give me more game. Resources I can read.

Yea the front looks super clean. Big benefit of those Magura e-levers and the electronic shifter is the wire is thin and flexible - way more than a shifter cable housing so you can wrap them together right up to the handle. Is the wrap easy enought to remove if you need to get in there? Mine is all held together by a silly amount of Jagwire clips but they are at least held together in 2 groups. I could get them wrapped in 2 clean lines like this + the front brake to the fork but I worry about ease of fiddling... and I wouldn't be able to wrap them as closely together at the handles. I did manage to find the right size 2 and 3 cable grommets for my E06 frame from GiantBikeSpares so I was able to preserve that clean part of the look at least and not have to try and punch a hole through the single cable grommet that shipped with the frame. They actually fit the rear stay pass throughs (same as the Hydra's) as well so I think I may pop one in on the brake side and run my speed sensor through there so it's no longer external - would probably work on the drive side with the 2 hydraulic lines for the Kindernay too! 1472-PLUGIN-712 is the part, and as far as I can tell 1346-PLUGAA-806 is the same and about $1.24 each. One thing I notice is WW doesn't reorient the banjo bolt on the rear calipers for a more straight run to the pass through - I don't blame them as the oil is a PITA to clean but if you've gotta undo the line to run it any way, why not go for it?

Even with the external wiring on the downtube it still looks super clean with that wrap though. This makes me want an HT fatty for my second motor, but between the smoke and the incoming rain it looks like summer's truly over and I don't know when I'll be able to go ride again...

I've never seen anything like those grips on your brake levers - kinda cool. The bars look like they could take some Spirgrips if you like that kind of riding position - I almost exclusively ride on my SQLab horns now but the Spirgrips are basically the same deal but a hinged clamp so you could actually fit them on the front of your bars where it straightens out.

Lumintop is selling the new USB-C version of their B01 bike light + a 5000mAh cell for $30 shipped on AlieExpress through the 21st, great bike light, excellent run time. Your bar has so much real estate on the front it reminded me I used an AE and a store coupon and ordered 4 of those lights... I already know they're great since I have an older microUSB version with some miles on it. Black felt tape on the flat bottom face in the reflector dish eliminates the glare that's bounced up

I just want my lever's tips prevented. They didn't fit the function. Using red tips now.
Jones' has the titanium bars in. Ugh. 'You spent your bike allowance - but hell with it (I argue with myself)'.
The experience difference between me at 139lbs and Me + 40lbs is crazy !!!
I went 'full pannier, shopping' + ABUS Monster lock, my estimate: 47 - 50lbs added.
I (literally) Feel Ya - guys - weighing over 190lbs. I was running at 48v, but the difference going light and coming back heavy (4.5mi total) was remarkable. Regardless that though, the ride is far superior compared to my other bike.
-
Jones has some nice fenders blanks in stock again (finally).
Go USA !!! 100% American Made from American owned molds to American standards by Americans and I'm sure there's even American oil in this, somewhere !!!
I understand not wanting to plot, plan and template; precisely measure, cut, drill/ sand/ chamfer edges and polish the flash off properly, so these're virtually unique, in that they won't turn much of a profit and won't last long. E-X-C-L-U-S-I-V-E is a given.
Jones is a real fanatic; a hands-on genius. Watching his vids of him 'hopping around' on his ti frames you get a sense of it.
I also sensed that with Pushkar, Amit and Co. and consider myself a very lucky man to experience any of their creations (esp a titanium frame). Working art - but we can pull the hairs out of Mona Lisa's (slightly visible) mustache if we like, without desecration.
Been a rough road for these guys, but they have Vision.
I'm definitely buying a set for my ti Cross Tour - if they'll fit.
I'm running 4.0's and (maybe) anticipate 4.8's for sand duty. I want to replace the SKS fenders
Too edgy. Nothing on 'Gumbo' has angular transitions; everything's rounded, organic shapes - but for a triangle center. Not to my taste.
-
Should I go with the 4.0's ($80.00 ea.), or plan ahead and buy the ($160.00 ea.) 4.8's? Any suggestions regarding fit with Vee Mission Command 4.0 tires? Any advice as to pitfalls. Any sources for (exotic) hardware? These are 'blanks' and the CT does not have a lower bracket hole.
I envision using a 2 piece, 3D printed clamp, top and bottom over and under the titanium chain-stay with the fender directly bolted to it via an 'L' adapter. But if the fender is long enough, I could drill a hole horizontally - one part being deeper than the other - and run my bolt through that. Is there a better way?
I'm buying tomorrow. Rear first.

Fn'F


View attachment 139555 View attachment 139566

Width	Length Rear, Weight	Length Front, Weight
~ 3.8” / 95 mm	~ 47” / 1194 mm, 285 g	~ 36” / 920 mm, 240 g
~ 4.2” / 105 mm	~ 48” / 1220 mm, 335 g	~ 36” / 920 mm, 270 g
~ 4.8” / 123 mm	~ 47” / 1194 mm, 350 g	~ 35.5” / 900 mm, 284 g

• The 3.8” fit 27.5” Plus / 27.5” x 2.4” - 3” and 29 Plus / 29” x 2.4” - 3”
• The 4.2” will fit up to 29 Plus / 29” x 3.25”
• The 4.8” will fit 26” fat tires and 27.5” x 3.25” and 29” x 2.6”. It’s not a good fit for 29” x 3.25” but could be stretched a little bit to make it fit

 

[tomjasz]

Any updates on your Wattwagon Titanium bike?
I'm posting here because I read your thread on Titanium bolts. But I can't find it
on EBR searches. My bolts are showing rust on my Biktrix Monte Capro.
When you get chance can you please link me to where I can purchase Titanium bolts? Thanks.
Rome.

Um, Google titanium hardware? Hopefully you have a fat bank account.

Titanium Screws | Aerospace Grade 6AL4V Titanium Bolts & Titanium Nuts

Our titanium screws RC are made of premium grade 6AL4V titanium that is both ultra-light and ultra-strong. As an added bonus, we also offer our titanium screws RC with their respective wrenches, so you dont have to go buy one separately.

www.acerracing.com

Boeshield and ACF50 were my choice living in the Caribbean on St. Croix USVI.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

You just can't go wrong with a Titanium frame, they look great, and you know they will last a really long time. Ebike looks great.

Thank you. I so agree about ti. In a fire it changes color. Dragon breath proof. It bends and rebounds like a drunk kangaroo - with no damage.
Plotting this mission 2 1/2 years ago, the goals were: No. 1) Titanium frame. No. 2) Ultra Power. No. 3) Under 65lbs, and it's accomplished.
But credit where it's due, it was accomplished by Pushkar, Amit, the entire crew of WattWagons Artists.
The more I ride, the more I appreciate the machine and the minds behind it.
So, a big Thank You to the WattWagons Crew for all their creations !!!
Total respect.

I'm starting to think you were wise to go with a derailleur setup instead of the Kindernay hub.

As you probably read in the Kindernay thread I recently took the wheel/hub off my Hydra for it's 250km flush/oil change and found out that all of the fluid had leaked out of the hub.
I did a flush with Kindernay fluid and mineral oil and refilled the hub and installed it on my bike today.
Now I'm into 'watch out a leak' mode.
If the hub is leaking that will mean it has to go back to WW, who will probably have to send it back to Kindernay, which is located in Europe. The nice thing about a derailleur setup is if I can't fix/adjust it properly my local bike shop can.....the same day.

Once I got things dialled in on my UC Pro the derailleur has worked fine....as long as I don't use the smallest cog.
Also, the wide motor combined with a fat bike spider gear and wide crank arms give the bike a horrendous Q factor. I've gone back to flat pedals, from clip-less, because the angle of my foot , when clipped in, was causing some hip and knee pain.

I like the way you're dealing with all your wires. Well done F&F.

The only wire to splice were the throttle's, eliminating the adapter to the huge plug (and spaghetti) in between, using the Julet end of the adapter soldered directly to the throttle wires. There was a small-shop company that did this.
Buy some of the 0.5" clips - I guess jagwire sells them, or get them for dirt on aliexpress - to snap bike cables/ hoses together. Each end turns 360.
Remove the spiral. Now, over the next month clip, tape (using thin cut pieces of electrical tape, no less than 6" apart) and create your loom.
Fix errors in 'wire lay'; double smaller wires back and tape to reduce slack.
3/8ths 'split weave' literally zips on and off. Disassembly and reassembly is a breeze. The only clips I have on now are (1) to eliminate wire 'slap' when I hit rough terrain and (3) used to create a locked points between two wire groups.

Any updates on your Wattwagon Titanium bike?
I'm posting here because I read your thread on Titanium bolts. But I can't find it
on EBR searches. My bolts are showing rust on my Biktrix Monte Capro.
When you get chance can you please link me to where I can purchase Titanium bolts? Thanks.
Rome.

Hi Rome !
First, your last question, re: Ti bolts.
Finishing up Gumbo with ti fasteners, I'm waiting for a shipment now from these people on aliexpress.
Pricewise, I spent $35.00 for (8) M5x12mmm (black color), (8) M5x12mm (ti color) and all (7) complete headset bolts (ti color).
23 bolts total, 6AL/4V Titanium Alloy (Gr5). Many past delivery's: 2 - 3 weeks.

Replaced fasteners w/ titanium, like (above) disc bolts, but not the (6) large flat-heads interfacing the two parts of the MDR P's.

Replaced Salsa 60mm, alloy bar-clamp with an 80mm titanium (and ti spacers), to fit for geometry of Jones H-Bars; titanium spacers and I'm still looking for the right compression plug to accommodate my titanium bolt and cap ??? May simply use star-nuts.
I'm budgeting in titanium Jones 710mm Loop Bars

Worked out the wiring a bit. Playing with stem height variations.
Can't stand 'bar clutter' and shifter could be better placed.
Ordered this (left) Magura Shiftmix.

The present arrangement

.
Hoping to position the Archer >10 - 20mm right, eliminating it's clamp, I anticipate moving the brake lever more inboard to accommodate the curved lower bolt housing support.
They make a Left, and a Right but no Center . Sounds like American politics these days .
Creating a 5mm spacer looks doable, so I also ordered a Wolftooth MMX Mag.
Between the two, my vice, drill files and a piece of metal...
Extreme fun, my 46t ring's low geared. Probably perfect for bad weather, snow or unimproved roads and my surf fishing - on hard/ soft sand for miles, but I have the beach covered on throttle w/ the 40t cog. So, I'm considering a 50 or 52t ring, not to increase top end, for cruising at 20-25mph.
The Domino's nice, but needs ( I knew it would) that 100ohm resistor (I'm waiting for the package) between 5v circuit and 'signal', to increase throttle range. Otherwise, the first 20-30% of throw range is dead .
Of course 'full range' means if you accidentally blip the throttle you better have a grip - and turn your right hand upward, not downward increasing the problem or . Easy in Eco L1 or L2.
Everybody's 'mentioned' Sports Mode being more of a death trap novelty than any sane person would use a steady diet.
Now I'm a true believer.
Installed an off/ on (latching) switch in the bar's end, under the grip's end cap. So, I can turn my throttle off at will.
Like this one, the the left side (uninstalled).

Wiring, fished through a 3mm hole on the bar's underside connects to the domino between 5v.
These'd be even better on the steel Moloko's where drilling a well placed hole is of no real consequence.
-
To unleash 'full range' power on the Domino, a 470 - 560ohm resistor is soldered into the '5v' line.
While this may be fine and dandy in Eco modes,

it allows the throttle the same power range the TS/ PA is allowed. A fun toy to go warp speed down a long stretch, it cannot be turned off, back to 'normal' unless the resistor's removed, or the throttle disconnected.
-
The innotrace firmware is throttle priority over pedal input - and throttle is limited to (what feels like) 750ish watts.
So a couple things. It's 100% CA Legal.
When using throttle, this is a CA Class II eBike - w/ No pedal assist, 20mph limit.
When you let off throttle, it morphs right back to a CA Class III eBike, w/ pedal assist up to 28mph.
If you engage throttle while pedaling, it reverts to a CA Class II eBike, throttle only, no pedal assist, 20mph limit.
-
The bike's a dream ride, exceeding my expectations.
The motor's just (100miles) starting to sound broken in; the Archer's fabulous, but easy to space out and forget to turn on; the M7's do exactly what I input and the bully Mastodon fork dances a flamenco on City bumps, while slam-dancing larger stuff and landing the bike with the poise of a ballerina.
Well worth it's weight in performance.
The combo of KINEKT (springs tuned correctly), the fat meats (even @ 20lbs) and that fork (set up 'pretty' correctly) with the titanium frame, meld to create a ride I never imagined possible on a hardtail - compliant but solid- road chatter a distant thrumming.
The handling is predicable and balanced
So, what would I change from how the bike comes? About nothing. Well, I'd order the 220 (f) and 203 (r) MDR P's from the git go and I have my bar preferences, but the Moloko's are cool too. Since the theme turned out oldie, a B17 in Honey color would fit nicely
Oh, I know: Ship the battery separate or wrap in thick foam, wedging in the box where they can't move and expecting UPS to drop the package (repeatedly), upside down and on it's ends from 6' high.
-
Not as much riding as I'd like. New battery came October 15th and I was out of town for a few days. First contact w/ tarmac was on the 20th. Then So-Cal got smashed by 10 days of hot (for us that's over 95) weather; 3 days of rain and again another 3 days of pouring rain.
So muck everywhere and I'm not feeling amphibious.
Planning a couple 10milers, next few days. Try and post some photos.
You could probably buy one of these frames retail (but not for long), from PRC and have WW build the machine.
Well worth the cost.

Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

F&F, I'm glad you're enjoying your new ride. Your bike looks awesome, and that titanium handlebar look very tempting, but man-oh-man it's pricey!

Having two WW bikes and a Cannondale e-gravel bike has really spoiled me. When I go for a ride my biggest decision is which bike to take.
Any shopping and I take the Pro, with its rack and two large pannier bags.
Any off-roading and I take the Hydra, but the way I've set the bike up it's really good as a commuter too, and because of the gearing (and that I can't use the smallest cog on the UC Pro) the Hydra actually has a higher top end.
The Hydra is super smooth on the trails or pavement.
My poor Cannondale Topstone Neo Lefty 3 e-gravel bike often collects dust it the corner of my shop. I need more riding time, but the weather has been less than favourable for bike riding (hey, I live in Canada).

 

[Rome]

Thanks for the link Fn'F. I ordered ordered 4 sets for my two bikes.
Thanks to @tomjasz I'm a sucker for anything 'racing applications' 'aircraft grade'..
This may sound like a dumb question but what size are these 4 bolts that clamps the handlebars are they standard size for most bikes? Those bolts is what got my attention to look into Titanium bolts.

 

[Foxhound68]

Reading these posts has me so excited for my WW Hydra. Legit can't wait! Been a rough 3 weeks since being hit by a drunk driver and I've rewarded myself by investing in a Hydra but all these posts have me so hyped! Set for shipping Monday ! Hopefully WW to Washington is speedy even though I can't ride it for awhile

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Thanks for the link Fn'F. I ordered ordered 4 sets for my two bikes.
Thanks to @tomjasz I'm a sucker for anything 'racing applications' 'aircraft grade'..
This may sound like a dumb question but what size are these 4 bolts that clamps the handlebars are they standard size for most bikes? Those bolts is what got my attention to look into Titanium bolts.

A: Four M5 16mm (front, bar side of clamp), Two M5 16mm (rear, fork side clamp).
Pretty much standard size in my (limited) experience.
-
Keep in mind, the colored ti (rainbow, gold, black, blue) are a by-product of heating that further reduces titanium's rated reuse (under torque) to about 75% the reuse rate of steel fasteners - in general.
To me that means don't torque down unnecessarily.
If I know I'll be trying different bars, I stick with steel bolts. When I find what I like, I install with ti under torque using Loctite.
I've never had a ti bolt shear and you don't want to. Difficult to tap, quickly dulling a carbide bit.
Titanium Grade 5 - 6% Aluminum and 4% Vanadium - often used in maritime and Aerospace applications, on a weight per unit basis is anywhere from two to four times stronger than typical 'Stainless Steel' fasteners by weight. By area - and mass - some high grade steel fasteners are more than 100% stronger in some respects.
Using ti in applications over 400F is fine, but will change the color and the hotter the more so the change.
In PRC they're still using heat to alter colors. In Europe and USA we use anodizing - less energy consumptive but an inferior finish.
Soon, the PRC will take austerity measures that will price 'heat treated ti' out of the market and no more will be forthcoming.
You want heat-treated, color changed fasteners? Better buy now, because 'Anodized' is far inferior in every respect.
-
I forgot to mention the MASSIVE titanium tubes on this frame. The Downtube is 1.75" fat.
Me a bit shy of 4.8" 'Snowshoes' (in San Diego CA), so Amit suggested the 4.0" gum-walls and I liked the idea.
I'm thinking of these (Click here >>> Vee Tire Co. Apache Fatty Slick Tire - 26 x 4.5, Folding) meats

for a City Tire.
I never ride in, so never turn in the wet. Why not?
Should I go with Tannus or what type inserts?
Any pro's that know, I'd like some advice.

Fn'F

 

[Cuz Vinny]

A: Four M5 16mm (front, bar side of clamp), Two M5 16mm (rear, fork side clamp).
Pretty much standard size in my (limited) experience.
-
Keep in mind, the colored ti (rainbow, gold, black, blue) are a by-product of heating that further reduces titanium's rated reuse (under torque) to about 75% the reuse rate of steel fasteners - in general.
To me that means don't torque down unnecessarily.
If I know I'll be trying different bars, I stick with steel bolts. When I find what I like, I install with ti under torque using Loctite.
I've never had a ti bolt shear and you don't want to. Difficult to tap, quickly dulling a carbide bit.
Titanium Grade 5 - 6% Aluminum and 4% Vanadium - often used in maritime and Aerospace applications, on a weight per unit basis is anywhere from two to four times stronger than typical 'Stainless Steel' fasteners by weight. By area - and mass - some high grade steel fasteners are more than 100% stronger in some respects.
Using ti in applications over 400F is fine, but will change the color and the hotter the more so the change.
In PRC they're still using heat to alter colors. In Europe and USA we use anodizing - less energy consumptive but an inferior finish.
Soon, the PRC will take austerity measures that will price 'heat treated ti' out of the market and no more will be forthcoming.
You want heat-treated, color changed fasteners? Better buy now, because 'Anodized' is far inferior in every respect.
-
I forgot to mention the MASSIVE titanium tubes on this frame. The Downtube is 1.75" fat.
Me a bit shy of 4.8" 'Snowshoes' (in San Diego CA), so Amit suggested the 4.0" gum-walls and I liked the idea.
I'm thinking of these (Click here >>> Vee Tire Co. Apache Fatty Slick Tire - 26 x 4.5, Folding) meats

View attachment 139989 for a City Tire.
I never ride in, so never turn in the wet. Why not?
Should I go with Tannus or what type inserts?
Any pro's that know, I'd like some advice.

Fn'F

I had them on my bike before. Not a fan. Could never get them to seat properly and despite being a slick they pick up stones and stuff. I also found that unless run at high pressure they don’t run smoothly.

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Recommend these, Vee Tire Speedsters, 26X3.5 so not as wide as you have now. Still decently wide on an 80mm rim. Still need to run these at higher pressures, I run 20 psi front and 22 psi rear. Your other choice would be Vee Tire Zig Zags, 26X4.0. Can’t comment on the performance of the Zig Zags as I’ve never tried them. Jumbo Jim’s are also a nice fast rolling all around tire.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

F&F, I'm glad you're enjoying your new ride. Your bike looks awesome, and that titanium handlebar look very tempting, but man-oh-man it's pricey!

Having two WW bikes and a Cannondale e-gravel bike has really spoiled me. When I go for a ride my biggest decision is which bike to take.
Any shopping and I take the Pro, with its rack and two large pannier bags.
Any off-roading and I take the Hydra, but the way I've set the bike up it's really good as a commuter too, and because of the gearing (and that I can't use the smallest cog on the UC Pro) the Hydra actually has a higher top end.
The Hydra is super smooth on the trails or pavement.
My poor Cannondale Topstone Neo Lefty 3 e-gravel bike often collects dust it the corner of my shop. I need more riding time, but the weather has been less than favourable for bike riding (hey, I live in Canada).

"... less than favorable weather"? You Canadians are a tough crew. Must be a blizzard.
Probably why we got an inch of rain and 50 degree temps down here. Freeeezing, I assure you. I almost had to shut my windows at night.
I've been musing about your UC from the outset of the '11t cog fail'. You've heard me, all over the map. It's just not normal.
The day you announce 'that's it, it's fixed', I'll feel a kindred form of closure, hard to describe. It Friggen' bugs me.
I'm on #3. Look how much further the offset is to get there, and I have no issues in #1, 11t.

You have the resource and talent to solve the riddle. I know you can.
It was difficult to comment without peeping the mechanics, but I see where ...

... the adjusters - on one or both sides - may be set incorrectly. Is your tire aligned evenly with the frame on both sides ?
Yes? Then it could be a defective cog or even a chain link.
PIA I'm sure, cog-set; chain and readjust, centering the wheel. But thing is, I'm not sure I'd really trust anyone but WW, or an owner to get it correct and admittedly being baffled, I just start replacing the likely suspects.
You have too many toys - lol. If you had one machine, perhaps more time?
No, but really I certainly envy you in an admirable way. You bought the hydra - WW's most sought after (available) and sorted out machine.
Commuting in heavy weather, or just anywhere when you can, must be a special experience.-
Did you get the fat version?

Reading these posts has me so excited for my WW Hydra. Legit can't wait! Been a rough 3 weeks since being hit by a drunk driver and I've rewarded myself by investing in a Hydra but all these posts have me so hyped! Set for shipping Monday ! Hopefully WW to Washington is speedy even though I can't ride it for awhile

Sorry about the accident. Drunk or sober, a lot of angry people on the road - just like the last recession.
For years I drove over 120 miles 5 days a week servicing clients. Full loop of my county. I got a feel for the economy by the traffic.
Not just gas prices, worried about money and the entire tangled web. A lot of frustration and anger.
I live near a stadium. Thousands of people not so happy they can't find free parking for two miles in any direction and it's a virtual free-for-all with traffic laws. Aggressive drivers, but at least it's gridlock. I can go around them.
I've had two incidents where a car cut me off recently.
I read a published study that showed silver is the least visible color to drivers and silver autos the most prone to having cars turning into them. I'm not kidding. It was used in insurance tables.
Congrats on the Hydra !!! Can't wait to see it.
Heal well and soon.

View attachment 140000

Recommend these, Vee Tire Speedsters, 26X3.5 so not as wide as you have now. Still decently wide on an 80mm rim. Still need to run these at higher pressures, I run 20 psi front and 22 psi rear. Your other choice would be Vee Tire Zig Zags, 26X4.0. Can’t comment on the performance of the Zig Zags as I’ve never tried them. Jumbo Jim’s are also a nice fast rolling all around tire.

Had my eye on the Speedsters. They look proper on that Mayor - w/ same 80mm rims on Gumbo. Back and forth on forums, lots of opinions predicting problems w/ 3.5' on 80mm. Appears to be plenty of sidewall to me. Beautiful tire. that fits well. Jumbo Jim's may well be it for my Surf Fishing forays- 20miles road and 15 sand. Thanks. Love the geometry of that bike..

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Now we are getting someplace !!! The Magura Faceplate (left biased) adapter works.
The WoffToot (right biased) failed miserably (I don't post photo's of fails unless humorous).

Here's the beef, the (current) Domino throttle fit w/ Archer D1x shifter.
Push-button shifting control is now perfectly placed and the brake lever, at the correct slant for me, is adequate ...

For me (big knuckles) any more >>>left, I find my distal phalanx and I like the MT7's levers adjust make for easy two-fingered use.
proximal phalanx interphalangeal (bwahahaha) joint makes contact The MT7's levers adjust make for easy two-fingered use.
with any shifter and chaps the hide off - not so funny. These brakes are 'awesome'. Only word for it. Quiet as a mouse.
Grinding to a halt, even sideways, producing consistently predictable control, modulating smoothly.

So much safer and capable, I can't imagine 'heavy' Ultra's - like Frey's - doing without them.
I run MT5e's on my 100Nm hubbed, 53lb Alloy Machine. 203mm MTR rotor in front.
Way better than the Tektro single pots - I'd tuned and 'padded' to perfect, that in turn were way better than stock.
The MT7's are head and shoulders above the 5's - even running 12 - 13lbs heavier.
So now I await the resistors to finish the 'Domino Throttle project'

... and to think it all started with a burning desire for quality, interchangeable - NOT overpriced, heavier, less comfortable and rather ugly bicycle - grips. Can't beat real rubber, motorcycle grade, from a race proven company that's been doing it right for 75 years with powered bikes - for less $$$.
-
A Topeak slider/ lock for gear on the rack is on the way. I'm hooked on the idea of slide-on [Since arrived and useless].

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Hey Rome. The ti fasteners came in.
And Deacon. My 50t Ring is here. Now I'll find out if longer chain is an issue.
I'm currently a 46t. As I remember, you're a 48t?
Heeey. Those are alloy Jones-bars. I was ready to go w/ 660's. He ran out. My advisor guy bullied me into 710's. Okay.
Then Jones' has the 660's back in stock and 710's are out.
So I wait for 710's until a week ago, then spend Gumbo's budget on other available stuff.
Two days later, he's got the 710's in again (arrrgh !!!)
Story of my existence. Every time he has the size I want in stock, fail.
Yes: Price. Now nearly $500.00USD, taxed and shipped. I see http://www.defianceframeworks.com is finished and have no idea how Jones pulls it off. Definitely a small shop on the other end.
If he still has 710 ti's, it's next month for me. If not, I want a ti frame for the Brooks - in Honey, to accomidate the raw metal/ earthy color theme.

Hey Anyone. Knowledgeable tips on how many links should be added to my chain?

FnF

 

[Deacon Blues]

Rome, the Q factor is the distance between the two pedals on a bike. On an ebike the closer the pedals are to each other the better.
On my UC Pro the Q factor is huge, with the addition of Bafang Fat bike dished spider and crank arms.
I was using clip-less pedals (Shimano), but the wide Q factor was causing knee and hip pain, so I've gone back to flat pedals, which work just fine.

F&F, I did go with the 48t front ring, because Pushkar advised against going larger. I would have preferred a 50t ring, though. Let us know how the 50t works out for you.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Cool yeah. Cockpit management is up there too in importance. I deleted throttle on mine. I named it Da Ridiculous Bike after sharing pictures with my daughters living on The Mainland, their reply was "That's ridiculous". So it stuck.
I got Titanium bolts from Acer Racing it's in the bag. I'm gonna cut it open with my Strider after a couple Russian martini.
I should not have to remove wheels to change out rotor bolts.

Nice !!!

'-P' rotors (f) and (r) bring to a stop, sooo sweet.
MT 5e's on other my machine are plenty and Gumbo's 7e's are 'Circus Performance' (w/ my light tail on that Mare), not 'overkill'. I feel a BIG difference and 'more is good' when I compare the two.
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No need to remove anything but bolts. As I remember 'Torque disc to 3.8 Nm'. Don't add washers, just LOCKTITE - best applied to bolts the night before installation. But really? Yes. It's safe procedure.
Some defect could arise and injure you. If you don't do it right, you are at least part liable.
Locktite's cheap, must-have insurance. I pretreat everything on final install and sometimes on mock-up installations I'm testing.
-
I love your 'lift' !!!! I'm planning a 25kilo piece of plate w/ 3 feet of square tubing flanged to bolt on (vertical), 4 feet of 'inner' square tubing w/ holes every 6" and a pin to set the height. It's 'in the works' - if the %@#*^ ParkTool clamp doesn't go to $500.00.

FnF

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Rome, the Q factor is the distance between the two pedals on a bike. On an ebike the closer the pedals are to each other the better.
On my UC Pro the Q factor is huge, with the addition of Bafang Fat bike dished spider and crank arms.
I was using clip-less pedals (Shimano), but the wide Q factor was causing knee and hip pain, so I've gone back to flat pedals, which work just fine.

F&F, I did go with the 48t front ring, because Pushkar advised against going larger. I would have preferred a 50t ring, though. Let us know how the 50t works out for you.

Will a 50t clear your frame's chain-stay? I have room for a 52t. Was that was the factor Pushkar was referencing?

 

[Deacon Blues]

Will a 50t clear your frame's chain-stay? I have room for a 52t. Was that was the factor Pushkar was referencing?
View attachment 140659

Pushkar's thoughts are that anything bigger than a 48T has an impact on how the chain lines up with the rear sprockets.
I know that when I went from a 44 or 46 (can't remember which the bike came with) to a 48 the chain skipping in the smallest cog increased. Note that this was on my bike, which is one of his old (and weird) frame, so the same may not apply to yours.
If I end up keeping my UC Pro I may go with a LinkGlide 10 speed cassette/derailleur and put my Archer unit back on. I still may be sending the bike back if/when the Helios comes out.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Pushkar's thoughts are that anything bigger than a 48T has an impact on how the chain lines up with the rear sprockets.
I know that when I went from a 44 or 46 (can't remember which the bike came with) to a 48 the chain skipping in the smallest cog increased. Note that this was on my bike, which is one of his old (and weird) frame, so the same may not apply to yours.
If I end up keeping my UC Pro I may go with a LinkGlide 10 speed cassette/derailleur and put my Archer unit back on. I still may be sending the bike back if/when the Helios comes out.

I'm remembering "44", but memory's clouded as well - a reason I ordered 46t. As a Master 'Crash Dummy', I respect my brethren's dedicated work.
A Union, Brotherhood; related on some level !!! Distant family.
I hear ya that, 'the same may not apply to [min]e's'. Fer one thing a med. is a longer frame.
As a kindred spirit, I can only lay down what I see. Sometimes a new outlook helps.
But HEY ???
You dump ti and go with soot fiber, all bets are off Uncle Deacon.
lol

FnF