WattWagons Ti CT Fattie

[Fast n' Furious]

It's alive !!!

More as I have it.

Fn'F

 

[Rockroy]

That's a very interesting way of mounting the axiom rack and using that tab for the rear fender support.

 

[Deacon Blues]

F&F, very nice bike! It looks awesome as a classic cruiser.
I had an Archer electric shifter on my Cannondale Lefty 3 e-gravel bike when the bike was set up with a flat handlebar, but I took it off when I switched back to a drop-bar setup.
I liked the Archer shifter, but 90% of the time I would take off on a ride and forget to turn it on.

Word of adivce: be very careful turning the device on and off. It is VERY easy to damage the on/off button (ask me how I know).
I ended up just turning the device on when I started a ride (after I remembered ) and when I finished my ride I didn't turn it off. Instead, I let it time itself out and turn off on its own. I figured the fewer times I touched the on/off button the better.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Thanks Deacon. You had an influence in the build. The entire D1x genesis started with you and (I believe) Scrambler discussing the Archer; leading to my installing one on my Lm'td to accommodate a Domino throttle.
So, when WW approved the throttle, I alerted Amit to 'possible' ('impossible' is a better term) clearance issues with Shimano shifters (and every other shifter I'd tried - except the D1x, but I didn't add that part). I was curious if they'd find, or knew of) something besides the Archer, but they came to the same conclusion. No dice.
Expectations tempered by bitter facts, I was stunned they found me a small frame. So on a roll, to expedite I made clear to Amit I'd compromise any unavailable parts.
My only change was omitting 4.8" Knobby tires for Vee MC 4" Gumwalls.

(Second) UPS Delivery date is tomorrow. Knowing UPS has (ahem, cough, choke, snort) difficulties, I designated a commercial address.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

That's a very interesting way of mounting the axiom rack and using that tab for the rear fender support.

You're right. You can see the UC on the WW website. This CrossTour has a difference in the frame geometry, or perhaps because it's a small frame, but they reversed the extender plate.
I'm using an Axiom rack, the model without the middle bar, but the same mounting plate >year now.
I've drilled and attached Torque Plates to a 100NM rear hub's axles; carried >80lbs for miles once a week or so. Even drilled holes in it to mount fenders and it stays solid. Glad they are using the extender 'tubes'.
(Edit) I've since eliminated the entire lower assembly.

And, after resizing and cutting the fenders, eliminated one stay, replaced the clips w/ Portland's; the frame 'stay clip' w/ a Honjo and isolated fenders from stays w/ 3mm, adhesive silicone strips, the Fenders are perfect for me, w/ the only vibration point at the Honjo, so much quieter.
Highly customizable.

 

[Deacon Blues]

is that the 48V 17.5Ah battery? Did you get one or two?

I wanted two batteries, but I didn't realize WW was going to mount the second battery on the top tube, which would make it impossible for me to step forward off the pedals, so I ended up taking off the battery and mounting plate.
With my bike/rear rack the mounting plate fits perfectly. It's almost like the rack was made so the mounting plate would fit. I plan, if I end up keeping the bike, to install the mounting plate on the rear rack, so I can carry the extra battery on the rack. It would even be locked in place.
So far I've only had one ride (110km) where I need more than one battery, but I'd like to do more longer rides in the future.

Presently, my Archer shifter is just sitting my bike parts drawer(s). I may put it on the UC Pro this winter.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Here's the build sheet.
Drivetrain
Frame Size: UC/CrossTour Small/Fat
Color: Ti
Motor: Bafang M620 52V X1 2300W
Battery: Jumbo Shark 52V 16ah
Throttle: Domino Twist Grip 0-5K Ohm Throttle, Standard Firmware Profile
Drivetrain: Shimano XT 11-speed, 46T Front Chainring, 11-40 Rear Cassette
Shifter: Archer D1x
Cranks: Bafang Aluminum 170mm
Wheels/Tires
Wheelset: SunRingle Mulefut 80 26”
Rims: Aluminum
Tires: Vee Snowshoe XL 26x4.8 Mission Command 26x4.0
Suspension
Front Suspension: Manitou Mastodon Pro
Brakes
Brakes: Magua MT7e
Rotors: Magura HC Storm 203mm (I have 220mm(F) and 203mm (R) MDR P's ready to install)
Cockpit
Handlebar: Surly Moloko (I'll be using my alloy Jones Butted H-Bar Loop's. If I like with this geometry, my plan was to get the titanium bars, but like the ti frames they've been 'out of stock', were expected in May 2022 and may be no more).
Stem: Salsa Guide 60mm (I have 10 degree, 60mm and 80mm Titanium stems to install)
Grips: Ergon GP1 (presently Black Domino rubber grips, switching to my Gum color)
Suspension Post: Kinekt 31.6
Saddle: Brooks B17 Carved Men's Black,
Axiom Rear Rack/ SKS Fat Fenders
Accessories
Chargers: 4A (Satiator out of stock at WW. I need more advice and study to find the best charger)
Firmware: Harness w/2-year SW Upgrades
Pedals: Crank Bros Stamp 1 Black

 

[Deacon Blues]

Is this frame from a new batch of frames that have recently been delivered to WW, or is it an 'old stock' frame, like my UC Pro frame?
I think the 26" wheels look better than the 27.5" wheels on my UC Pro. If I do end up keeping my Pro I may end up switching to a 26" wheel. I did mention this to Pushkar, but he thought I might have a problem with pedal strikes.

 

[Deacon Blues]

Is the 170mm crank arms a standard size for the UC Pro and UC Cross Tour, or is this a shorter crank?
I'm really interested in how your bike shifts (as in skipping in the smallest cog).

 

[Deacon Blues]

CRAP!

 

[loamoaf]

Nice bike! Glad you stuck it out and got it, sucks that the battery is roughed up. Lemme tell ya I went for my first ride this weekend with my custom pack and was crazy nervous! Had a little paracord insurance tied around the top in case the latch came undone (it didn't). For range expectation, I went 45km (28 miles) and my 52V18Ah pack went from 58V to 55V - this is with me relying on throttle only to get up a 16-17% grade for a little stretch into my neighborhood (and maybe through my neighborhood too, it was a tiring ride done mostly in PAS 1 for maximum work out) - so 30 miles on your pack is easily doable. I would think I should get at least 60 miles from a full charge before dipping below 50V on the 52V nominal pack.

Love a whole parts list, you made the right choice with the Mastodon Pro. If you want the best, you can get the IRT upgrade https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/mattoc-irt-upgrade-kit-fine-thread-2020-manitou.html and Dougal's high-flow damper valve for the ultimate Mastodon Pro - and adjust it to 140mm if that won't ruin your standover height. Motorex T4 5W-40 is the bath oil and 2,5wt Racing Fork Oil for the damper, Slickoleum for the seals. Chaparral Motorsports has good price on the Motorex fluids in the US.

Love the tan walls, I have some 29x2.8 Speedsters with tanwalls on alloy Corvus/Fatback 50mm rims and then the beige Snowshoe 2XL's on 95mm Nextie 26's, and a pair of 4.8" Snow Avalanches in the beige PSC with hex tip studs from Bikestud for ice - I think I may just get a second alloy fat wheelset for those. Also have some 29x3" Vittoria Cannolis (discontinued, sad face) on some 29x46mm Nexties - those are a little taller than the Vee Speedsters at about 31" vs 30" but the Speedsters are considerably fatter. The Vees set up tubeless flawlessly and those Speedsters are stupidly quick on pavement at only ~28psi. My first time riding plus size (and tubeless!) and all that extra volume really helps smooth out little vibrations that the suspension won't. Crazy stable feeling too, I mean I hadn't ridden a bike for a while before hopping on my build this weekend and I was flying down my mountain road pretty confidently. The 220/203 f/r rotors are no joke - you pretty much need a big hill to be able to get them hot enough for a proper bed in otherwise they just stop too quickly - my MT7's have the one-finger levers (Grin Tripwire for brake switch) and I never needed more than one finger on either, even when my hands were up on the horns.

That front fender fits great. I've been having trouble finding the right fender for the reverse arch on the Mastodon so I think maybe I've found a winner. Have a Mucky Nutz rear I need to hit it with the heat gun to be able to bend to fit my wide seat stays, and I need some angled risers to keep it up off the tire but right now enjoying great (albeit smokey) weather and clear roads so haven't been pressed to put it on.

Honestly wild to see UPS bust your bike up that bad - FedEx are the real shitkickers in my experience - they never miss an opportunity to screw it up. In fact, I've got some custom suspension parts for my dog's trailer en route from Czechia and they were supposed to arrive tomorrow - FedEx didn't even get them out of Germany until today! Actually... they are in Memphis, TN now so we shall see how quickly they can get them to WA from there haha.

Definitely give us a ride report when you get your battery sorted! Those Mission Commands honestly don't look like they'd be that much worse than Speedsters on most surfaces.

 

[loamoaf]

Battery is a 14s4p made with Lishen LR2170SF's - theyre 4500mAh cells with 13.5A continuous discharge so the pack is 18Ah and good for 54A - but from bench marks I could find that tested the cells from down to 3.2V (so pack voltage 44.8V at empty) at 20A (~1000W) continuous from the pack I should be able to squeeze 750Wh out of it. The only time I hit 1000W from it was on throttle up that 16~17% grade - according to a cycling calculator a rider and bike my weight would be going just under 37mph on flat ground with 1000W of power. I saw elsewhere in the WW threads users who tracked their usage and range were reporting 12.8-17Wh/mi - the 17Wh/mi was from someone with a UC Pro and loaded panniers at 2300W. My ride I was bouncing around 40-155W or so, at 250W I would say more than 800Wh out of the pack which should give me 47mi on the low end (17Wh/mi) or 62.5mi on the high end (12.8Wh/mi). I got enough cells and printed the pieces to make 2 packs. I think next build I would do a smaller flush-fit 14s3p 15Ah with some BAK cells that test relatively well. If I were made of gold I'd go with Samsung 50S but those are more than double the price of contemporary cells for like 1Wh more per cell at 5A - not worth it. My cells & BMS never got above ambient temperatures on my ride, motor definitely got warm on that uphill climb - the Lishens had less self heating than other comparable models which was another factor in me selecting them.

For the brakes the pusher versions of the Tripwires are what you would use. They definitely aren't as elegant as the Magura e-levers but for whatever reason those only come in the ball-end 3 finger version - interesting that the sensor is in the actual lever that can be swapped out from the rest of the reservoir assembly. The Maguras were a nightmare to bleed and then the rotor not being absolutely perfectly true had me concerned but out riding it's as if there is no extra weight on the bike when stopping - if anything the heavy ebike stops better than any other bike I've owned (to be fair this is by far the nicest bike I've owned) - perfect for the mountains. If you have brake noise issues check Deacon's thread there's several pad suggestions in there and I'm eager to hear everyone's experience with them. I had no noise or performance issues with my 8.S green pads but variety is the spice of life and I only have one replacement set, so I may switch it up the next one. I'll probably just sell the 8.P pads that came with the brakes as I don't want them to chew up my rotors (I don't actually know if they will or not)

For the IRT just verify your IVA top cap on the left leg has a white dot on it, then that link with the '-K010' part number is the correct one (fine-thread 34mm)

My dog is now ~63lbs and turning 10 very soon, pit-pointer mix so not very big but it's all dense muscle (and thick skull...) - I was looking at some fancy Burley child trailers with suspension but I can't actually charge any child care items to my job's juicy child care benefit account until I have a child... so I got a Croozer Jokke trailer & DOGY Components Light suspension kit. I also snagged some 2.4" Schwalbe Super Moto-X's to replace the 1.75" CST's that come with the trailer and the dog bed insert for the trailer along with the quick-connect axle. Very well made trailer, the whole thing doubles as a kennel/tent - my dog loves it as a kennel and is way easier to get in and out of than the child trailer would have been. Has a hard plastic tub style bottom and folds flat with button release wheels, hand brake, reflective strips and exterior loops for hanging gear on. There's an internal roof compartment available for it too but was out of stock when I ordered - would be enough to carry all the necessary camping gear for a weekend away if you've got someone else towing the cooler/beer (or do dehydrated meals/inebriants)

I think with the exchange rate (waaaaay in our favor compared to 2-3 years ago) the Jokke + DOGY upgrade was the same price as their newer Mikke model that has some so-so closed-cell foam pad suspension type deal. DOGY also makes upgrades for Croozer's other sized models that don't have suspension standard as well as the Burley Tail Wagon if you've got a smaller dog. I know with the Croozers they widen the wheelbase and move the axle slightly forward and higher (part of the reason I snagged the Super Moto-X's, also they were like $14 each) so the trailer will be much more stable. I'm also pretty impressed with the range of motion on the hitch connector part - I don't think a BOB style connection would be any more articulated for tighter turns. FedEx texted me telling me they'll be here [now today] so as soon as I'm no longer sore we will put these puppies to the test. Here's a test video of the DOGY kit on a Croozer dog trailer and then here's a comparison of the Dogy kit against the foam Croozer suspension - in retrospect I should have spent the extra for the lime green ano instead of raw ano, because my trailer is green like the one in the second video and it'd match perfectly.

When I first adopted my dog she was around 11 months old, I got a bikejoring harness and she pulled me all over faster than I could pedal. While she can still knock out a 10+ mile hike she's not so much into the pulling these days so now it's time I return the favor. It's going to be a wild winter if I find a cheap set of used skis I can hack up and fix to the trailer wheels...

 

[Fast n' Furious]

My battery came loose in the box .
WattWagons advised my to check inside of box for damage, and yup. It can see where the battery crashed into the end of the box.
The UPS guy was end-over-ending the box. I heard a thump, something with some mass.
Every time it was end-over-ended, the battery crashed around. It tore off two right side fender braces, and the Bars are packed throttle side down (uh oh); throttle body is plastic (uh oh). Well, at least now I know what the insides look like. Nice gears. Cracked casing shattered when I tried it a few times.
It appears the deep scratches on the Shark Case (only on two sides and the rest of it looks new) were made by it hitting the crank.
Who can be certain. Battery was 'hanging up' wherever and whatever it could. I'm not even sure how it was packed.

In general, WW's packaging was great. No expense spared. I buy that foam they use for various projects. It ain't cheap.
Was the box, which says "This Side Up" dropped off a truck or loading dock on it's end while loading/ unloading?
One handle cut-out is torn. That's happened to me when a heavy file box got away from me and ripped right out of my hand.
This was about 100lbs and that cardboard is multi-layers thick, but that's the only grip point on each side and it tore out of somebody's grip.

I look at the bright side. It could easily have been a so much more serious if one of those cells shorted out.
WW got back immediately and is working with me.
If I can just get a battery, I'll cannibalize my other throttle and I'm set.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Battery is a 14s4p made with Lishen LR2170SF's - theyre 4500mAh cells with 13.5A continuous discharge so the pack is 18Ah and good for 54A - but from bench marks I could find that tested the cells from down to 3.2V (so pack voltage 44.8V at empty) at 20A (~1000W) continuous from the pack I should be able to squeeze 750Wh out of it. The only time I hit 1000W from it was on throttle up that 16~17% grade - according to a cycling calculator a rider and bike my weight would be going just under 37mph on flat ground with 1000W of power. I saw elsewhere in the WW threads users who tracked their usage and range were reporting 12.8-17Wh/mi - the 17Wh/mi was from someone with a UC Pro and loaded panniers at 2300W. My ride I was bouncing around 40-155W or so, at 250W I would say more than 800Wh out of the pack which should give me 47mi on the low end (17Wh/mi) or 62.5mi on the high end (12.8Wh/mi). I got enough cells and printed the pieces to make 2 packs. I think next build I would do a smaller flush-fit 14s3p 15Ah with some BAK cells that test relatively well. If I were made of gold I'd go with Samsung 50S but those are more than double the price of contemporary cells for like 1Wh more per cell at 5A - not worth it. My cells & BMS never got above ambient temperatures on my ride, motor definitely got warm on that uphill climb - the Lishens had less self heating than other comparable models which was another factor in me selecting them.

For the brakes the pusher versions of the Tripwires are what you would use. They definitely aren't as elegant as the Magura e-levers but for whatever reason those only come in the ball-end 3 finger version - interesting that the sensor is in the actual lever that can be swapped out from the rest of the reservoir assembly. The Maguras were a nightmare to bleed and then the rotor not being absolutely perfectly true had me concerned but out riding it's as if there is no extra weight on the bike when stopping - if anything the heavy ebike stops better than any other bike I've owned (to be fair this is by far the nicest bike I've owned) - perfect for the mountains. If you have brake noise issues check Deacon's thread there's several pad suggestions in there and I'm eager to hear everyone's experience with them. I had no noise or performance issues with my 8.S green pads but variety is the spice of life and I only have one replacement set, so I may switch it up the next one. I'll probably just sell the 8.P pads that came with the brakes as I don't want them to chew up my rotors (I don't actually know if they will or not)

For the IRT just verify your IVA top cap on the left leg has a white dot on it, then that link with the '-K010' part number is the correct one (fine-thread 34mm)

My dog is now ~63lbs and turning 10 very soon, pit-pointer mix so not very big but it's all dense muscle (and thick skull...) - I was looking at some fancy Burley child trailers with suspension but I can't actually charge any child care items to my job's juicy child care benefit account until I have a child... so I got a Croozer Jokke trailer & DOGY Components Light suspension kit. I also snagged some 2.4" Schwalbe Super Moto-X's to replace the 1.75" CST's that come with the trailer and the dog bed insert for the trailer along with the quick-connect axle. Very well made trailer, the whole thing doubles as a kennel/tent - my dog loves it as a kennel and is way easier to get in and out of than the child trailer would have been. Has a hard plastic tub style bottom and folds flat with button release wheels, hand brake, reflective strips and exterior loops for hanging gear on. There's an internal roof compartment available for it too but was out of stock when I ordered - would be enough to carry all the necessary camping gear for a weekend away if you've got someone else towing the cooler/beer (or do dehydrated meals/inebriants)

I think with the exchange rate (waaaaay in our favor compared to 2-3 years ago) the Jokke + DOGY upgrade was the same price as their newer Mikke model that has some so-so closed-cell foam pad suspension type deal. DOGY also makes upgrades for Croozer's other sized models that don't have suspension standard as well as the Burley Tail Wagon if you've got a smaller dog. I know with the Croozers they widen the wheelbase and move the axle slightly forward and higher (part of the reason I snagged the Super Moto-X's, also they were like $14 each) so the trailer will be much more stable. I'm also pretty impressed with the range of motion on the hitch connector part - I don't think a BOB style connection would be any more articulated for tighter turns. FedEx texted me telling me they'll be here [now today] so as soon as I'm no longer sore we will put these puppies to the test. Here's a test video of the DOGY kit on a Croozer dog trailer and then here's a comparison of the Dogy kit against the foam Croozer suspension - in retrospect I should have spent the extra for the lime green ano instead of raw ano, because my trailer is green like the one in the second video and it'd match perfectly.

When I first adopted my dog she was around 11 months old, I got a bikejoring harness and she pulled me all over faster than I could pedal. While she can still knock out a 10+ mile hike she's not so much into the pulling these days so now it's time I return the favor. It's going to be a wild winter if I find a cheap set of used skis I can hack up and fix to the trailer wheels...

Good stuff. I'm doing some of my planned mods now.
I've been plotting on a 14S3P Samsung 21700 INR21700-50E (50E) 'Sport Pack' but yes, a terrible ROI value.
The Lishen's rate highly. Specs I see, just as you say.
While I didn't research to any depth, there are reports of 'just throttle' using measurably less battery compared to a PAS and I see nothing to the contrary.
Yes, I have the white dot on the cap.
I love my Moto-X's. Do they ever wear out or just rot off after 5 years?
Hope to death these Vee's are as durable in the City.
Every dog has it's day. And a good dog has two. I'll be checking everything to find mine a rickshaw. That's my sidekick.
Thanks for such great leads!

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

A week delay - total - Feel that? - WattWagons on top of everything w/ instructions/ no delay. No Excuses. Five Star Service.
I'm all e-mail; convenient for everyone. Nothing impresses me that much - 'cept great food and idiocracy.
Searching for the cutting-edge custom builder, I found WattWagons. I don't want them being 'phone answerers'- like assigning Rembrandt to clean graffiti off sidewalks. "You happen to be luck enough to own one of their productions, you're blessed" has been my outlook, now realized.

I'm 'senior' grade. To 'Bike U' Grad, elder alumni 'at this a while' no biggie, but to me, the Archer D1x is magic.
I focus and my shifts are already perfect. WattWagons set it all up. It came fully operational. I go through gears easy.
Following the technique from BarnBoy, shifting is barely be detected.
Now 'Sports Mode', uh yeah fellas, I feel ya. Fork needs to be set up to absorb that lift.

Just starting the wiring harness. Have to go by my bud's for compressed air to blow that blk Domino grip off.

I'd heard Bafang's mount had 'clamp issues'. Sure enough, I stripped one side without much trying. Same as the (see below) fender-stay tabs. This time I used a flat head, longer bolts w/ washers.

Titanium, on titanium, spaced with titanium at the top. 220mm MDR P's midriff.
The Magura cut-outs as installed work perfecto.
I had an F and R fender stay loose. WW pointed out it could be more, like my Fender-Stay tabs damaged - by the 'flying battery'.
Right they were. My fix is simple. Use a longer bolt w/ a washer so it can't pull through the plastic.

WattWagons even tuned my Archer wireless shifting. Pressed two buttons, I'm live and shifting. They didn't plan for UPS Mayhem, Loki or Dionisius with a hangover, but rose to the task, getting me on the road like it was a 'race day' commitment.
Even tuned my Archer wireless shifting. Pressed two buttons, I'm live and shifting.

10miles today. Shakedown run. Effortlessly, I hit 28 in Eco Level 2.
Tried Sports Mode 1. YIKES !!! For me, fork needs to be a little stiffer rebound. Yes, bike lifts front end to the end of fork travel in a flash.
The ride, @20lbs PSI was so much more 'mature' than I'm used to, only later, going through my checklist I realized I hadn't even tuned the kinekt.

 

[Deacon Blues]

The wrapping of wires in the front is WAY better on your bike. Mine looks like a rat's nest compared to yours.

 

[loamoaf]

Yea the front looks super clean. Big benefit of those Magura e-levers and the electronic shifter is the wire is thin and flexible - way more than a shifter cable housing so you can wrap them together right up to the handle. Is the wrap easy enought to remove if you need to get in there? Mine is all held together by a silly amount of Jagwire clips but they are at least held together in 2 groups. I could get them wrapped in 2 clean lines like this + the front brake to the fork but I worry about ease of fiddling... and I wouldn't be able to wrap them as closely together at the handles. I did manage to find the right size 2 and 3 cable grommets for my E06 frame from GiantBikeSpares so I was able to preserve that clean part of the look at least and not have to try and punch a hole through the single cable grommet that shipped with the frame. They actually fit the rear stay pass throughs (same as the Hydra's) as well so I think I may pop one in on the brake side and run my speed sensor through there so it's no longer external - would probably work on the drive side with the 2 hydraulic lines for the Kindernay too! 1472-PLUGIN-712 is the part, and as far as I can tell 1346-PLUGAA-806 is the same and about $1.24 each. One thing I notice is WW doesn't reorient the banjo bolt on the rear calipers for a more straight run to the pass through - I don't blame them as the oil is a PITA to clean but if you've gotta undo the line to run it any way, why not go for it?

Even with the external wiring on the downtube it still looks super clean with that wrap though. This makes me want an HT fatty for my second motor, but between the smoke and the incoming rain it looks like summer's truly over and I don't know when I'll be able to go ride again...

I've never seen anything like those grips on your brake levers - kinda cool. The bars look like they could take some Spirgrips if you like that kind of riding position - I almost exclusively ride on my SQLab horns now but the Spirgrips are basically the same deal but a hinged clamp so you could actually fit them on the front of your bars where it straightens out.

Lumintop is selling the new USB-C version of their B01 bike light + a 5000mAh cell for $30 shipped on AlieExpress through the 21st, great bike light, excellent run time. Your bar has so much real estate on the front it reminded me I used an AE and a store coupon and ordered 4 of those lights... I already know they're great since I have an older microUSB version with some miles on it. Black felt tape on the flat bottom face in the reflector dish eliminates the glare that's bounced up

 

[Fast n' Furious]

That's my initial 'mock-up'. Still need a couple parts to finish my wiring loom. Wireless shifting and lighting helps reduce clutter.
Circuit pro's using butted Jones H-Bars are drilling holes to mount things. Hey, that's (sorta) my idea, but my interest is internal wiring.*

In my handle-bar ends I've installed latching, push-button on/ off switches, inset 1/8" beneath the flexible rubber grip's end.
One, I'm wiring to turn the throttle on or off. The other is a 'standby', wired and in place.
They're undetectable and I made them replaceable too. The throttle's set of 22awg wires exit a 0.04" hole on the underside of the bar's throttle side.
Both switches and insert adapters = 13gms + wires.
Moloko's weighed 709gms. My Jones' 525gms - Jones titanium's weigh 562gms - good luck finding a pair.
-
Impressions
The bike is light. Doesn't feel like 65lbs.
I went with a 46t, but find there's ample room to install a 48t Ring and a 50t looks doable too.
The chain-line is centered dead on (going from largest to smallest) the 6th cog.
The 220mm MDR P in front w/ MT7's is not excessive at all.
The Mastodon fork

*We have three problems. (1) Julets require a 10mm hole (0.39"). That's 'mostly' too large to work.
(2) The Display's control module is hardwired. Fresh out of ideas there - short of splicing.
(3) The shortest Julet extension adapter is 1meter - useless when we need 6" min, 1' max for the display's 'too short'' 5 Prong Julet. I may make one. I've spliced (soldered) in a longer 5-prong display cables before and they worked great. Hardest part was staggering the connections to keep it thin.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Yea the front looks super clean. Big benefit of those Magura e-levers and the electronic shifter is the wire is thin and flexible - way more than a shifter cable housing so you can wrap them together right up to the handle. Is the wrap easy enought to remove if you need to get in there? Mine is all held together by a silly amount of Jagwire clips but they are at least held together in 2 groups. I could get them wrapped in 2 clean lines like this + the front brake to the fork but I worry about ease of fiddling... and I wouldn't be able to wrap them as closely together at the handles. I did manage to find the right size 2 and 3 cable grommets for my E06 frame from GiantBikeSpares so I was able to preserve that clean part of the look at least and not have to try and punch a hole through the single cable grommet that shipped with the frame. They actually fit the rear stay pass throughs (same as the Hydra's) as well so I think I may pop one in on the brake side and run my speed sensor through there so it's no longer external - would probably work on the drive side with the 2 hydraulic lines for the Kindernay too! 1472-PLUGIN-712 is the part, and as far as I can tell 1346-PLUGAA-806 is the same and about $1.24 each. One thing I notice is WW doesn't reorient the banjo bolt on the rear calipers for a more straight run to the pass through - I don't blame them as the oil is a PITA to clean but if you've gotta undo the line to run it any way, why not go for it?

Even with the external wiring on the downtube it still looks super clean with that wrap though. This makes me want an HT fatty for my second motor, but between the smoke and the incoming rain it looks like summer's truly over and I don't know when I'll be able to go ride again...

I've never seen anything like those grips on your brake levers - kinda cool. The bars look like they could take some Spirgrips if you like that kind of riding position - I almost exclusively ride on my SQLab horns now but the Spirgrips are basically the same deal but a hinged clamp so you could actually fit them on the front of your bars where it straightens out.

Lumintop is selling the new USB-C version of their B01 bike light + a 5000mAh cell for $30 shipped on AlieExpress through the 21st, great bike light, excellent run time. Your bar has so much real estate on the front it reminded me I used an AE and a store coupon and ordered 4 of those lights... I already know they're great since I have an older microUSB version with some miles on it. Black felt tape on the flat bottom face in the reflector dish eliminates the glare that's bounced up

The Flexo F6 wrap is easy to remove, replace and work with

Many grades and types. I use self-wrapping, woven.
3/8th's will actually cover the 'splitters' in Higo wiring. Didn't like the hook and loop.
No wires from the Archer - just the short cable from shifter on the chain-stay.
The trade off is the 6 cut-off and 3 throttle wires. Only soldering required is 3 wires from the throttle to the Higo adapter.
Throttle > off/ on switch in the bars uses 2.2mm spade crimp-on connectors. The trade off is the 6 cut-off and 3 throttle wires.
Only soldering required is 3 wires from the throttle to the Higo adapter. Throttle > off/ on switch in the bars uses 2.2mm VW style spade crimp-on connectors.
WattWagons adjusted the Archer nicely. I click and pause pedaling, resume it shifts smooth and certain.
Once they had the parts - read: a titanium frame - holding up the show, they had the bike completed and shipped in a week. That includes the time they waited for the special order throttle.
Re rear Brake Banjo. Perhaps the hydraulics are disconnected at the lever, sealed off with a rubber cap and fed through going up. If done properly, very little leakage. Keeping both inlet and outlet the highest points, I've disconnected and reconnected hydraulics without bleeding.
Real PITA to loosen that Banjo end and I certainly agree clamp on portable lights are the way to go.
The Fork is the [LE] Pro version w/ Dorado air. 120mm.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm starting to think you were wise to go with a derailleur setup instead of the Kindernay hub.

As you probably read in the Kindernay thread I recently took the wheel/hub off my Hydra for it's 250km flush/oil change and found out that all of the fluid had leaked out of the hub.
I did a flush with Kindernay fluid and mineral oil and refilled the hub and installed it on my bike today.
Now I'm into 'watch out a leak' mode.
If the hub is leaking that will mean it has to go back to WW, who will probably have to send it back to Kindernay, which is located in Europe. The nice thing about a derailleur setup is if I can't fix/adjust it properly my local bike shop can.....the same day.

Once I got things dialled in on my UC Pro the derailleur has worked fine....as long as I don't use the smallest cog.
Also, the wide motor combined with a fat bike spider gear and wide crank arms give the bike a horrendous Q factor. I've gone back to flat pedals, from clip-less, because the angle of my foot , when clipped in, was causing some hip and knee pain.

I like the way you're dealing with all your wires. Well done F&F.