Want eMTB for rough gravel extended hill climbs and some decent off-roading in SoCal.

[highrisedrifter]

Hi all.

I'm based in Los Angeles and I just joined the forums to do my due diligence research on an ebike. I've been building mountain bikes and BMXes for years and currently have three mountain bikes (Trek, Giant and GT) and twenty four BMXes, but no ebikes of my own yet, although I did build an Etrike for my wife. I only have one BMX and one MTB out here in SoCal though; everything else is back at my house in the UK.

However, I am about to rectify my 'ebike-lessness'. I'm an older guy who suffered damage to my left leg after a motorbike accident (thanks to the drunk driver who hit me) but still want to ride the mountain trails near my house. My closest trail is 12 miles long and pretty much all uphill rough gravel (about 2600' of elevation), barring a few level areas. My bikes will hardly be used on-road at all.

So my research into hub drives versus mid drives, torque sensors, cadence sensors, fat tires vs normal MTB tires, and all manner of other related things brought me here. It's good to be here and I hope I can become a useful member of the community.

Currently i've narrowed my bike choices down to four brands and a price ceiling of about $2750 USD:

Radpower RadRover 6
Aventon Aventure
Biktrix Juggernaut Classic 9 (Cadence sensor), or potentially Ultra 2 (Torque sensor)
Rize RX or RX Pro (both with torque sensors)

The Biktrix and Rize bikes seem to have the highest torque (120nm/160Nm vs 80nm for the Aventon and 68nm for the Radpower), and best mid drive motors (versus hub motors in the Aventon and Radpower), which I feel would allow better extended off-road hill climbing without overheating, but Aventon have a good local dealer network that would mean any maintenance that I couldn't do could be done easily by them. The Radpower seems to be well liked but is of a similar power and weight as the Aventure, with a Cadence sensor too, but suffers from no local dealer network that I can find. These two bikes are currently at the bottom of my four bike list purely for those reasons.

As I mentioned, i've built MTBs from scratch, so I know how to setup and maintain gear systems, derailleurs and hydraulic brakes myself. Hell, I can even punch and replace a bottom bracket or headset too if needs be, but I can't do any work on the electrical systems, especially if any calibration or maintenance needs to be done.

While I have two Aventon dealers within five miles, does anyone know of any bike shops in the Los Angeles area that would work on Radpower, Rize or Biktrix bikes please?

Also, i'm really leaning towards the Rize RX or RX Pro. Anyone with any insight into those or any of my other suggested rides please? It might be that 80nm in a hub drive with a cadence sensor is plenty enough for what I need it for, but i'm 6ft and 200 lbs and will be climbing hills on this bike almost constantly for a long while in the hot southern California sun.

Any help gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I dont think your going to want a hub drive with that much hill climbing.

 

[highrisedrifter]

I dont think your going to want a hub drive with that much hill climbing.

Yeah the more I dig into it, the more I agree.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Yeah the more I dig into it, the more I agree.

A giant Trance or equivalent might be the ticket.

 

[indianajo]

Rise of over 1000' in an hour can burn a geared hub motor. Mac said so years ago. None of the bikes listed have mid-drives, which cool better. Plus, you are going to want a suspension for rough gravel.
See the mtb category under bikes by type for discussion of different options. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/emtb-options-for-2021-2023.32057/unread
I think most of these will exceed your budget.
To convert an existing bike, see the bafang conversion threads under diykits category. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/diy/

 

[highrisedrifter]

Rise of over 1000' in an hour can burn a geared hub motor. Mac said so years ago. None of the bikes listed have mid-drives, which cool better. Plus, you are going to want a suspension for rough gravel.
See the mtb category under bikes by type for discussion of different options. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/emtb-options-for-2021-2023.32057/unread
I think most of these will exceed your budget.
To convert an existing bike, see the bafang conversion threads under diykits category. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/diy/

Thanks. I thought both the Rize RX and Biktrix Juggernaut were Mid Drives. At least that's what their sites say. It's all new to me though so i'm still learning and most probably got it wrong. Thanks for the correction. My search continues.

 

[onlineaddy]

I think most of these will exceed your budget.
To convert an existing bike, see the bafang conversion threads under diykits category. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/diy/

+1 on the DIY suggestion. Any DIY mid-drive kit with torque sensing people recommend? I don't have personal experience.

 

[linklemming]

Rise of over 1000' in an hour can burn a geared hub motor. Mac said so years ago. None of the bikes listed have mid-drives, which cool better. Plus, you are going to want a suspension for rough gravel.
See the mtb category under bikes by type for discussion of different options. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/emtb-options-for-2021-2023.32057/unread
I think most of these will exceed your budget.
To convert an existing bike, see the bafang conversion threads under diykits category. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/diy/

I ride my GMAC 10t 3 times a week for over 8k miles with typical rides about 1.5 hours and 1.5k elevation gain without any issues. No signs of any overheating issues when opening up the motor.

I do run a Grin PhaseRunner and CA3 with temp control and push this system to the limit everytime I ride it (i.e 6% grade, 25mph+, 15mph+ headwind). Temp control starts at 90C at ending about 110C. In the hottest conditions I stay between 90c and 100C. Many other ride stats I can post but this seems the worst case (grade+speed+wind)

Here is a 1 hour, 1k elevation gain ride. FWIW, 18.9mph average is 'super fast' for this loop considering the typical wind (I typically average about 15-17mph)

I have a friend/neighbor which beats this by a SUBSTANTIAL margin on his GMAC equipped Juiced CCX but he is 70# lighter, highest motor temp he has ever seen is 75C (CA3 temp control starts at 90C). He has averaged 21mph for this loop which is completly insane IMHO.

 

[AHicks]

First, unless you're riding regularly in sugar sand or snow, my vote would be for a hard pass on the 4.0"+ tire widths. Without even getting into the extra rolling resistance, they add a big clumsy feel to the bike, with no real up side other than the high flotation ability.

I think the 2.4"-2.8" widths (plus sizes) are plenty wide, on road or off.

I have had a MAC 12t geared hub powered bike quite a while (nearly identical motor to the GMAC), and it does have an awful lot of power. They're conservatively rated at 1000w or more. However, when it comes to bigger loads/riders/steeper hills, it is not going to have the option to drop down into a wall climbing granny gear like the mid drive would offer. Could you get away with it on your rides? Your call....

I would want a mid drive for what you are describing, I think it may be the more versatile option here.....

Rize offers both hub and mid drive. They're unusual in that they offer both the 4" fat and more conventional size tires. The conventional size tires can be harder to find.....

 

[highrisedrifter]

First, unless you're riding regularly in sugar sand or snow, my vote would be for a hard pass on the 4.0"+ tire widths. Without even getting into the extra rolling resistance, they add a big clumsy feel to the bike, with no real up side other than the high flotation ability.

I think the 2.4"-2.8" widths (plus sizes) are plenty wide, on road or off.

I have had a MAC 12t geared hub powered bike quite a while (nearly identical motor to the GMAC), and it does have an awful lot of power. They're conservatively rated at 1000w or more. However, when it comes to bigger loads/riders/steeper hills, it is not going to have the option to drop down into a wall climbing granny gear like the mid drive would offer. Could you get away with it on your rides? Your call....

I would want a mid drive for what you are describing, I think it may be the more versatile option here.....

Rize offers both hub and mid drive. They're unusual in that they offer both the 4" fat and more conventional size tires. The conventional size tires can be harder to find.....

Thank you for the insight. I agree with you. I've noticed that there's a lot of bikes only offering fat tires. I've only ever had MTBs with 'normal' wheels and my gut instinct is telling me to go with 27.5x2.3. Biktrix say their Ultra Duo 2 can be specced with 27.5x3 but when going into the actual model, that option isn't available.

I think i'm set on either one of these bikes right at the moment and i'm just doing my due diligence on them to see where I want to land. The Rize seems to have better suspension forks on them too. I have some Suntours on my old GT and they've been rock solid (pun intended). RST are a new fork to me, having never used them before. The Suntours are lighter too. The Rize also has 180mm hydraulic brakes versus the 160mm of the Biktrix (Although to be fair, i'd probably swap either of them out for something better not far down the line anyway). The gear system looks like it's the same Shimano Alivio on both. And although the Alivio might be 'fine' for my use, I might swap that out for a four piston Deore or something similar, as i've used them for years, and Shimano themselves since the 80s on my BMXes, so trust them.

Everything else (tires/saddle) are irrelevant and are relatively cheap and easy to replace with something better.

 

[AHicks]

Thank you for the insight. I agree with you. I've noticed that there's a lot of bikes only offering fat tires. I've only ever had MTBs with 'normal' wheels and my gut instinct is telling me to go with 27.5x2.3. Biktrix say their Ultra Duo 2 can be specced with 27.5x3 but when going into the actual model, that option isn't available.

I think i'm set on either one of these bikes right at the moment and i'm just doing my due diligence on them to see where I want to land. The Rize seems to have better suspension forks on them too. I have some Suntours on my old GT and they've been rock solid (pun intended). RST are a new fork to me, having never used them before. The Suntours are lighter too. The Rize also has 180mm hydraulic brakes versus the 160mm of the Biktrix (Although to be fair, i'd probably swap either of them out for something better not far down the line anyway). The gear system looks like it's the same Shimano Alivio on both. And although the Alivio might be 'fine' for my use, I might swap that out for a four piston Deore or something similar, as i've used them for years, and Shimano themselves since the 80s on my BMXes, so trust them.

Everything else (tires/saddle) are irrelevant and are relatively cheap and easy to replace with something better.

Same thought here! On the tires, if you haven't already, check out the Schwalbe tires in the 2.3 - 2.8" range. Great from both a puncture proof stand point and low rolling resistance. I like them for my mostly on road/light trail play for their ride. They can be run right down into the 20-30psi range while maintaining their good rolling resistance.

Happy hunting (making yourself crazy!) -Al

 

[mschwett]

...Anyone with any insight into those or any of my other suggested rides please? It might be that 80nm in a hub drive with a cadence sensor is plenty enough for what I need it for, but i'm 6ft and 200 lbs and will be climbing hills on this bike almost constantly for a long while in the hot southern California sun.

Any help gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

i'm about the same size as you (6'2 185lb) and also surrounded by coastal california's hills - northern vs southern but very similar grades and conditions, other than being a bit cooler. i think you're definitely going to want a mid-drive with traditional MTB 1x gearing, which will let you go up pretty much anything. it sounds like you're mechanically competent and familiar with most things two wheeled, so i'd recommend something with as many standard bike components as possible and electronics that are supported by a good network of local shops. to me, that narrows it down to the big names in mountain bikes - trek, scott, specialized, giant, etc.

the big question (which will drive cost and other factors a lot) is whether you need/want full suspension or a hardtail. most people exclusively riding mountain trails here are riding full suspension; whereas gravel bikes are more common on fire roads, mixed terrain, longer rides, etc. i'd be kind of concerned that something like the rize rx, at 70lb with no rear suspension, is not going to be ideal for your stated use case.... but it depends a lot on the particular trails you're thinking of. if the extra $$ for a full squish bike that will go anywhere is worth it to you, consider the full power trail versions from any of the big manufacturers, which are all quite similar:

turbo levo alloy - $5,800, 90nm, sram nx 12 speed, 32t up front and 11-50 in the back, multiplying the torque by 1.56....
giant stance e+ - $4,699, 70nm, deore 10 speed, 36t up front and 11-46t in the back (1.28x)
scott strike - $5,499, 85nm, sram sx 12 speed, 34t up front and 11-50 in the back (1.47x)
trek rail 5 - $5,649, 85nm, deore 12 speed, 34t up front and 10-51 in the back (1.5x)

 

[highrisedrifter]

Same thought here! On the tires, if you haven't already, check out the Schwalbe tires in the 2.3 - 2.8" range. Great from both a puncture proof stand point and low rolling resistance. I like them for my mostly on road/light trail play for their ride. They can be run right down into the 20-30psi range while maintaining their good rolling resistance.

Happy hunting (making yourself crazy!) -Al

Yes! I replaced the Bontragers with Schwalbes on my Trek Fuel and I love them. They were my immediate go-to back in the UK for riding the trails there.

i'm about the same size as you (6'2 185lb) and also surrounded by coastal california's hills - northern vs southern but very similar grades and conditions, other than being a bit cooler. i think you're definitely going to want a mid-drive with traditional MTB 1x gearing, which will let you go up pretty much anything. it sounds like you're mechanically competent and familiar with most things two wheeled, so i'd recommend something with as many standard bike components as possible and electronics that are supported by a good network of local shops. to me, that narrows it down to the big names in mountain bikes - trek, scott, specialized, giant, etc.

the big question (which will drive cost and other factors a lot) is whether you need/want full suspension or a hardtail. most people exclusively riding mountain trails here are riding full suspension; whereas gravel bikes are more common on fire roads, mixed terrain, longer rides, etc. i'd be kind of concerned that something like the rize rx, at 70lb with no rear suspension, is not going to be ideal for your stated use case.... but it depends a lot on the particular trails you're thinking of. if the extra $$ for a full squish bike that will go anywhere is worth it to you, consider the full power trail versions from any of the big manufacturers, which are all quite similar:

turbo levo alloy - $5,800, 90nm, sram nx 12 speed, 32t up front and 11-50 in the back, multiplying the torque by 1.56....
giant stance e+ - $4,699, 70nm, deore 10 speed, 36t up front and 11-46t in the back (1.28x)
scott strike - $5,499, 85nm, sram sx 12 speed, 34t up front and 11-50 in the back (1.47x)
trek rail 5 - $5,649, 85nm, deore 12 speed, 34t up front and 10-51 in the back (1.5x)

I'd love a full sus eMTB but sadly it's out of the range of what i'm willing to pay at the moment. I have a Trek Fuel EX 8 back in the UK that I adore and that cost me a pretty penny back in the day (maybe ten years back or thereabouts), and it's been bulletproof over the years.

There's a lot of fire roads in the hills near me, so maybe I could just adjust my riding style for a few years until i'm willing/able to buy a good full-sus eMTB. A 70lbs mid-drive hardtail should be fine for climbing the fire roads like this one - https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail/us/california/chandler-motorway-to-verdugo-peak which has a 2600' elevation gain in 12 miles, with an 11% grade for the first mile and over 1000' of climb in the first hour. It should be kinder on a heavy hardtail than some of the other trails in the area i'd like to ride.

The other option is to look at a second hand full-sus eMTB for cheaper money from a recognized brand. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty replacing any mechanical components, as long as the electric system works ok, which is way outside of my comfort zone.

 

[mschwett]

Yes! I replaced the Bontragers with Schwalbes on my Trek Fuel and I love them. They were my immediate go-to back in the UK for riding the trails there.

I'd love a full sus eMTB but sadly it's out of the range of what i'm willing to pay at the moment. I have a Trek Fuel EX 8 back in the UK that I adore and that cost me a pretty penny back in the day (maybe ten years back or thereabouts), and it's been bulletproof over the years.

There's a lot of fire roads in the hills near me, so maybe I could just adjust my riding style for a few years until i'm willing/able to buy a good full-sus eMTB. A 70lbs mid-drive hardtail should be fine for climbing the fire roads like this one - https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail/us/california/chandler-motorway-to-verdugo-peak which has a 2600' elevation gain in 12 miles, with an 11% grade for the first mile and over 1000' of climb in the first hour. It should be kinder on a heavy hardtail than some of the other trails in the area i'd like to ride.

The other option is to look at a second hand full-sus eMTB for cheaper money from a recognized brand. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty replacing any mechanical components, as long as the electric system works ok, which is way outside of my comfort zone.

i think a hardtail mid drive will work well for fire roads and light singletrack like your link. a gravel bike would too probably, i ride stuff like that on my creo with 42mm knobby tires.

my experience with those types of routes in coastal ca is that they tend to have short sections of much steeper grades than advertised, with traction and gearing the limiting factors rather than motor power. i’d want a torque sensor bike so that the wheel/motor power can be instantly adjusted by simply pedaling harder - or easing off if you’re losing grip but holding speed.

on that front, the rize rx seems like the best of your above choices. fat tires are for me a no go on packed trails and gravel, just too much drag, too squishy in the corners, too slow. they shine in sand and snow and so on. is there a good shop nearby that will happily service it?

 

[highrisedrifter]

Thanks mate, yeah i'm leaning towards the Rize too. I just checked one bike shop nearby and they will service Bosch drives and all he said about a Bafang was "bring it in and we'll take a look at it and let you know." So, not ideal. There's a few more stores near me that might help. Failing that, it might be time to learn about how to fix mid drives.

 

[PDoz]

Yes! I replaced the Bontragers with Schwalbes on my Trek Fuel and I love them. They were my immediate go-to back in the UK for riding the trails there.

I'd love a full sus eMTB but sadly it's out of the range of what i'm willing to pay at the moment. I have a Trek Fuel EX 8 back in the UK that I adore and that cost me a pretty penny back in the day (maybe ten years back or thereabouts), and it's been bulletproof over the years.

There's a lot of fire roads in the hills near me, so maybe I could just adjust my riding style for a few years until i'm willing/able to buy a good full-sus eMTB. A 70lbs mid-drive hardtail should be fine for climbing the fire roads like this one - https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail/us/california/chandler-motorway-to-verdugo-peak which has a 2600' elevation gain in 12 miles, with an 11% grade for the first mile and over 1000' of climb in the first hour. It should be kinder on a heavy hardtail than some of the other trails in the area i'd like to ride.

The other option is to look at a second hand full-sus eMTB for cheaper money from a recognized brand. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty replacing any mechanical components, as long as the electric system works ok, which is way outside of my comfort zone.

Sorry if I'm pitching this wrong, there are mixed messages with your hopes / experience and budget.

It sounds like you're a mountain and bmx rider, looking at getting into ebikes but looking in the wrong spot - budget bikes for less enthusiastic riders.

Try thinking of what BIKE capabilities you need, because the electric part is less important than the bike part - ANY ebike assistance is going to feel fantastic on the first bike, then once hooked you can start spending silly $

Be honest with yourself - did that old trek fuel ex handle well enough, or would you prefer to sample modern geometry? How much travel do you really want ( and add 10-20 mm for the extra weight / speeds of an ebike)

Then sit down and consider the end price if you buy something below that and upgrade over time.

Ignore whatevers and manufacturer range claims - true bike performance has nothing to do with marketing bs .

Sit down, ignore the $ figure, and consider these options, then perhaps ask yourself if you really would be happy with the bikes you originally listed. If so, then have a good long think about converting a normal bike.

Budget with option of self build so you spec what you want ( and can fit used parts) , you're sacrificing some handling and weight for price / flexibility , eg https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/dengfu-e22-frame-thread.26880/

Budget ready to roll but old school geometry and lower spec running gear - something like a giant stance. Nb these have a less sophisticated rear linkage system than the trance so you will never really be ecstatic about the handling. They probably still handle as well as your old trek, but if you have bmx skills you will eventually regret one of these.

Light and almost normal bike handling but sit down before looking at the price.....I'm pretty sure you'd buy one of these if you ride one- so don't ride unless you are prepared for that. I think the old specialized levo sl is on special in the US at the moment because they are about to release a new version , or if you can handle the price trek make your fuel with a really subtle motor but not very subtle price.....

Then you have big brand full power - anything from giant trance up. Mainstream, they sell well because they are amazing. BUT , these bikes are heavier than your trek (24-27 kg , still a LOT lighter than the monsters you have mentioned) . People pay silly $ for these for good reason.

 

[highrisedrifter]

Sorry if I'm pitching this wrong, there are mixed messages with your hopes / experience and budget.

It sounds like you're a mountain and bmx rider, looking at getting into ebikes but looking in the wrong spot - budget bikes for less enthusiastic riders.

Try thinking of what BIKE capabilities you need, because the electric part is less important than the bike part - ANY ebike assistance is going to feel fantastic on the first bike, then once hooked you can start spending silly $

Be honest with yourself - did that old trek fuel ex handle well enough, or would you prefer to sample modern geometry? How much travel do you really want ( and add 10-20 mm for the extra weight / speeds of an ebike)

Then sit down and consider the end price if you buy something below that and upgrade over time.

Ignore whatevers and manufacturer range claims - true bike performance has nothing to do with marketing bs .

Sit down, ignore the $ figure, and consider these options, then perhaps ask yourself if you really would be happy with the bikes you originally listed. If so, then have a good long think about converting a normal bike.

Budget with option of self build so you spec what you want ( and can fit used parts) , you're sacrificing some handling and weight for price / flexibility , eg https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/dengfu-e22-frame-thread.26880/

Budget ready to roll but old school geometry and lower spec running gear - something like a giant stance. Nb these have a less sophisticated rear linkage system than the trance so you will never really be ecstatic about the handling. They probably still handle as well as your old trek, but if you have bmx skills you will eventually regret one of these.

Light and almost normal bike handling but sit down before looking at the price.....I'm pretty sure you'd buy one of these if you ride one- so don't ride unless you are prepared for that. I think the old specialized levo sl is on special in the US at the moment because they are about to release a new version , or if you can handle the price trek make your fuel with a really subtle motor but not very subtle price.....

Then you have big brand full power - anything from giant trance up. Mainstream, they sell well because they are amazing. BUT , these bikes are heavier than your trek (24-27 kg , still a LOT lighter than the monsters you have mentioned) . People pay silly $ for these for good reason.

Wonderful advice and a lot to think about. Thank you so much! Sorry for the mixed messages. All this new ebike stuff is unknown to me and I probably made some very obvious rookie errors. Apologies.

I've built bikes from scratch, getting a raw frame and forks and adding everything from the BB and headset upwards, even respraying them too, so building a mechanical bike isn't daunting in the least.

The addition of the electrics however is way, way out of my comfort zone. I daresay that adding electrics is something I could come to terms with, given some considerable study and time. Part of me would prefer to leave that to the experts and buy an off-the-shelf bike.

The new geometry is definitely something I want to explore. My Trek was a good bike in its time, but we've come a long way since then and I know I can get a better bike now.

The advantage of buying a complete bike is it comes with warranty and already set up to plug and play, all the things I change are for personal preference things like grips, saddle, forks and soon new schwalbe Eddy Current tires.

This is very true. And much like building computers (which I also do), building a bike from scratch will always be cheaper than buying an off-the-shelf one, with the added drawback that you don't have a complete warranty to fall back on,

 

[pmcdonald]

Sorry if I'm pitching this wrong, there are mixed messages with your hopes / experience and budget.

It sounds like you're a mountain and bmx rider, looking at getting into ebikes but looking in the wrong spot - budget bikes for less enthusiastic riders.

Try thinking of what BIKE capabilities you need, because the electric part is less important than the bike part - ANY ebike assistance is going to feel fantastic on the first bike, then once hooked you can start spending silly $

Be honest with yourself - did that old trek fuel ex handle well enough, or would you prefer to sample modern geometry? How much travel do you really want ( and add 10-20 mm for the extra weight / speeds of an ebike)

Then sit down and consider the end price if you buy something below that and upgrade over time.

Ignore whatevers and manufacturer range claims - true bike performance has nothing to do with marketing bs .

Sit down, ignore the $ figure, and consider these options, then perhaps ask yourself if you really would be happy with the bikes you originally listed. If so, then have a good long think about converting a normal bike.

Budget with option of self build so you spec what you want ( and can fit used parts) , you're sacrificing some handling and weight for price / flexibility , eg https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/dengfu-e22-frame-thread.26880/

Budget ready to roll but old school geometry and lower spec running gear - something like a giant stance. Nb these have a less sophisticated rear linkage system than the trance so you will never really be ecstatic about the handling. They probably still handle as well as your old trek, but if you have bmx skills you will eventually regret one of these.

Light and almost normal bike handling but sit down before looking at the price.....I'm pretty sure you'd buy one of these if you ride one- so don't ride unless you are prepared for that. I think the old specialized levo sl is on special in the US at the moment because they are about to release a new version , or if you can handle the price trek make your fuel with a really subtle motor but not very subtle price.....

Then you have big brand full power - anything from giant trance up. Mainstream, they sell well because they are amazing. BUT , these bikes are heavier than your trek (24-27 kg , still a LOT lighter than the monsters you have mentioned) . People pay silly $ for these for good reason.

Nice advice.

Budgets are critical to sticking within means and helpful to arrest runaway spending. But if you've got the financial buffer they can sometimes be a bit of a self-imposed trap. Talking from experience, if you stick to a budget and regret the purchase you'll forever wish you spent more. Conversely, blow the budget on a product you love and you won't regret a thing. I love my emtb to bits, I just wish I spent more on it

Not sure if any of that applies to @highrisedrifter's situation, but sounds like you've got some solid technical and trick skills behind you, shame to see you end up with a bike that'll hold you back.

 

[PDoz]

The addition of the electrics however is way, way out of my comfort zone. I daresay that adding electrics is something I could come to terms with, given some considerable study and time. Part of me would prefer to leave that to the experts and buy an off-the-shelf bike.

Think of most electrics like a plug and play component, in fact they're even easier than eg swapping a deralieur - you have limited options to stuff things up , and most of the time are stuck with black box syndrome - replace rather than repair. Perhaps take a look at the bearing man to get some idea of which motors are viable to repair mechanically ( aka stay away from shimano)

That's an oversimplification if you are heading DIY , so eg baffling motors open up cans of worms with software / controller compatibility etc - there's a lot of info out there which is both reassurance and warning

BTW , the electrics are still the weak point - even with big brand bikes . Do your due diligence on warranty support / transferability across owners / rolling warranty etc. You could save $ thousands.

 

[linklemming]

Lots of good advice being given here but the biggest issue I see is your budget of $2700ish.

For your desired climbing parameters, I dont see any reason why you should consider a hub drive (I have owned a few and still do). Its the last thing I would choose for a 12 mile 2600ft climb...its doable but just not the best tool for the job.

The Rize products have a good strong motor and what appears to be a stout frame although much of the other components are cheaper. Its hard to say how you would like this. That being said, it would handle your climbing parameters just fine.

A hardtail with bigger tires would suit your rides just fine. I have a Bulls Evo(old school geometry) 3 27.5+(2.8 tires) (Brose motor) and for typical fire road climbs (I rode in the SF and SoCal area for 10 years), it would be more than sufficient. That bike was $3600 back in 2018 with sales around $2800. Its an excellent all around bike.

DIY isnt all that hard with something like a Bafang BBSHD (I have one). Motor plus battery would be around $1k. The trouble seems to be finding a frame which supports the motor with minimal spacers which can cause chain alignment issues. Max chainring size is an issue with more modern 1x MTBs. You also have to consider mounting the battery to the frame and the loads imposed while going downhill at speed.

Sure modern geometry would be great to try but would not be feasible with your budget. I just acquired a 2022 specialized turbo levo(comp alloy) and am in love with the modern geometry although I am still getting used to it. This bike was $5700 (40% off).

FWIW, I build most of my bikes (including ebikes) from the frameset.

Given your budget, The Rize bikes or a DIY BBSHD seems like the best solution maybe a Luna X2 for $4200?