Very pleased with new Como 4.0 650b

[kahn]

Two possible arrangements depending on the manufacturer:

View attachment 108125
Praxis "Wave" chainring.

With Narrow-Wide chainrings, the outer link should be placed on the wider chainring tooth when looking from the top. (The wide and narrow teeth alternate). There is a diagram at the back of of the chainring showing where the outer chain link should be placed.

That's it. Thanks. I now have at least one copy but where's the other one? (g)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

. I now have at least one copy but where's the other one? (g)

I have added the missing diagram

 

[Super Dave]

Man, the published Como specs are freaking wrong on the size of the chainring. The specs state 40 teeth. The actual chainring is 48. My new chainring is 38. Way too big of a jump down. Awww man, that was a waste.

 

[mschwett]

Man, the published Como specs are freaking wrong on the size of the chainring. The specs state 40 teeth. The actual chainring is 48. My new chainring is 38. Way too big of a jump down. Awww man, that was a waste.

that’s frustrating! specialized changes stuff all the time … the 2022 version has a 48t up front per the spec. maybe they ran out of the 40t and already had the 48 and started using them. of course the 2022 is also an SRAM 11-speed …. they’ve switched a lot of shimano drivetrains to SRAM for whatever reason, probably availability at least in part.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Man, the published Como specs are freaking wrong on the size of the chainring. The specs state 40 teeth. The actual chainring is 48. My new chainring is 38. Way too big of a jump down. Awww man, that was a waste.

Dave: Como has always come with a 48T chainring. Don't despair: Riding steep hills? You'd love the jump from 48 to 38 teeth. That was exactly the swap I did to my full power Vado! I could clear very steep hills during my vacations (and I had the 46T largest cassette cog!) Now, in the flatland, I actually keep the 38T chainring, as it gives me tremendous acceleration. My cadence is very good, and actually I don't ride at top speed in the Winter...

 

[Allan47.7339]

https://electricbikereview.com/forums/attachments/chainring-jpeg.108541/

That's also a good picture of the chain "inner tooth" alignment mark. I used a silver marker to put an alignment line on the outside of the chainring since you can't easily see the diagram on the roadside after you've dropped a chain.

 

[kahn]

That's also a good picture of the chain "inner tooth" alignment mark. I used a silver marker to put an alignment line on the outside of the chainring since you can't easily see the diagram on the roadside after you've dropped a chain.

Yes, they make that diagram almost absolutely useless by tucking it on the inside. I'm pretty certain that's the reason for one of my de-chain incidents - misalignment.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Yes, they make that diagram almost absolutely useless by tucking it on the inside.

The outside of the chainring is covered with a chainguard, so no use for the diagram on the outside, either. With some practice, the user can easily see the proper alignment by looking at the chainring from the top.

 

[kahn]

The outside of the chainring is covered with a chainguard, so no use for the diagram on the outside, either. With some practice, the user can easily see the proper alignment by looking at the chainring from the top.

My Creo does not have a chainguard.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My Creo does not have a chainguard.

Yes but Como does

 

[kahn]

Yes but Como does

They should emboss that diagram on BOTH sides of the chainring. On the Creo, it would show.

 

[Super Dave]

I ordered a 44 tooth chainring and that will get me the gear ratios I wanted.

the 2022 version has a 48t up front per the spec. maybe they ran out of the 40t and already had the 48 and started using them. of course the 2022 is also an SRAM 11-speed

Any idea what the largest and smallest cogs are on the SRAM 11 speed?

Also, the bike shop said my chain was too short for the 48 tooth chainring and that's why it could have been jumping off.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Also, the bike shop said my chain was too short for the 48 tooth chainring and that's why it could have been jumping off.

That's quite possible.

 

[mschwett]

I ordered a 44 tooth chainring and that will get me the gear ratios I wanted.



Any idea what the largest and smallest cogs are on the SRAM 11 speed?

Also, the bike shop said my chain was too short for the 48 tooth chainring and that's why it could have been jumping off.

Thanks,
Dave

Specs say it’s the PG-1130 11-42t cassette, which is a very common one on SRAM 1x setups. For a new bike, with SRAM, it’s unlikely they’d substitute anything.

 

[Super Dave]

Thanks for the info. I find it interesting that they made such a big change in the chainring and basically have the same gearing as on my Como. I guess I should check my cassette to confirm it's really an 11-42.

 

[Super Dave]

Hi, it's been an unusually rainy winter over here.
I've been able to get a few rides in with the Jones bar and the new 44 tooth chainwheel. I like both very much. The increased rise of the bar is good. I really like how there's a lot more space for lights, phone, bell, etc... I finally have the bike dialed in to my liking.

I think I need to replace the pads on my rear brake. Any suggestions for pads and replacement rotors? Thanks

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I think I need to replace the pads on my rear brake. Any suggestions for pads and replacement rotors? Thanks

Dave:
It is very very strange. While front brake pads can wear fast (especially if you brake a lot on descents), the rear pads should wear very slowly, as the load on the rear brake is only 30% of the stopping power. What makes you think the rear brake pads are worn? Do you brake with both brakes (properly) or only with the rear brake? Shouldn't you see your LBS for brake diagnosis and service?

Basically, you replace the pads with the same type as the originals. And you should not replace the rotor, as it is the part that wears extremely slowly. Again, talk with your LBS!

P.S. How many miles ridden on the original brake pads? (It could be many reasons your rear brake works poorly).

 

[Super Dave]

Unfortunately the rear brake was off center for quite a while and rubbing for quite a while. I thought the rotor was bent because it would start to rub badly when heated up. I recentered it and although not rubbing it doesn't sound right when braking. The front brake doesn't make an unusual noise when braking but the rear brake makes more of a metal on metal noise. Unfortunately the shop didn't address it the last time it was in for service. I'm assuming the rear pads had extra wear with all the rubbing in the past. I have about a thousand miles on the bike. I do brake with both brakes... Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Electrified]

We are looking for some bars that have a higher rise but are not interested in spending the $$ for H bars. Any other good options out there?

 

[Mike Moore]

Hi, it's been an unusually rainy winter over here.
I've been able to get a few rides in with the Jones bar and the new 44 tooth chainwheel. I like both very much. The increased rise of the bar is good. I really like how there's a lot more space for lights, phone, bell, etc... I finally have the bike dialed in to my liking.

I think I need to replace the pads on my rear brake. Any suggestions for pads and replacement rotors? Thanks

View attachment 111089

Did the stock cabling provide enough room to accommodate the Jones bar or did you have to have new cables installed?