Ugh… Tongsheng fail

[Gionnirocket]

Good. See if a brass pin or two is bent in the connector to the display. Straighten carefully using a tooth pick. If this is not the problem, you will need to open the other side of the motor housing and double check the connections to the controller.
QC issues: It is not just physical stuff. A factory is like an Orchestra. They may be fine individually, but need constant practice working together. What about Spring Training? You can't just pickup where you left off.
View attachment 117235

QC issues are one thing.
But production lines are typically set up with check lists and sequences. If someone calls in sick or production is interrupted for any reason... Workforce can be shifted and line work adapted to facilitate. Just think about having multiple shifts...
Now if everyone goes out for a liquid lunch... That's when the qc hits the fan.

 

[Ducky77]

Good. See if a brass pin or two is bent in the connector to the display. Straighten carefully using a tooth pick. If this is not the problem, you will need to open the other side of the motor housing and double check the connections to the controller.
QC issues: It is not just physical stuff. A factory is like an Orchestra. They may be fine individually, but need constant practice working together. What about Spring Training? You can't just pickup where you left off.
View attachment 117235

Thanks! He already checked all the gold pins, springs etc. . He has the whole damn motor open right now

 

[PedalUma]

QC issues are one thing.
But production lines are typically set up with check lists and sequences. If someone calls in sick or production is interrupted for any reason... Workforce can be shifted and line work adapted to facilitate. Just think about having multiple shifts...
Now if everyone goes out for a liquid lunch... That's when the qc hits the fan.

That is why they used to say Buy a Wednesday Mercedes. Monday morning is no good. Friday afternoon sucks.

 

[Ducky77]

battery now reading 54V
checked continuity of all the wires in the motor and they checked out fine.
no 5 volt reference on red on the motherboard.
on the controller- only 3 of the pins have voltage.

 

[Gionnirocket]

battery now reading 54V
checked continuity of all the wires in the motor and they checked out fine.
no 5 volt reference on red on the motherboard.
on the controller- only 3 of the pins have voltage.

Do you know what you're supposed to have?

Hey @PedalUma... I see 2 QC stickers! PASS
What's the typical weak point on these... Motor? Controller? Display?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Time to check Post #8 again

 

[Ducky77]

Do you know what you're supposed to have?

Hey @PedalUma... I see 2 QC stickers! PASS

Time to check Post #8 again

I am done with this crap. I am just gonna ride this thing without a motor. It will be good for me anyways... More exercise. HAHA

 

[Gionnirocket]

Its an 8 pin... I got confused because there are 6 plugs in the back of the controller. I am done with this crap. I am just gonna ride this thing without a motor. It will be good for me anyways... More exercise. HAHA

I suggest that you just take a time_out.
I know my tired limit and when it's best to let it go for another day. You'll often figure it out in 30 minutes compared to never by continuing on now.

 

[harryS]

Sorry Ducky, I know nothing about the TSDZ2. Suggest you make sure it's a 48V controller. I heard the older 36V models would reject anything over 44 volts. I have a 48V kit, still in box for years. I had planned to work on it this winter, but it's Spring on Monday. Guess it remains low priority.

 

[tomjasz]

Sorry Ducky, I know nothing about the TSDZ2. Suggest you make sure it's a 48V controller. I heard the older 36V models would reject anything over 44 volts. I have a 48V kit, still in box for years. I had planned to work on it this winter, but it's Spring on Monday. Guess it remains low priority.

I‘d one up you...
But I’m too embarrassed to share the list of project motors on the shelf here. Still have an unfinished 26” kick bike and GBC 110mm GM. But I’ll move on that so as not to shelf kill a bottle battery.
i keep saying I’ll do a forum rummage sale. Battery cases, misc black XT90/XT60, and misc battery packs components. Enough new cells for a 23Ah pack that are probably aged out. Arthritic hands have ended extended wrenching sessions. Maybe an electric impact wrench will get me moving again.

 

[vincent]

Hope you get this figured out, sorry it has been so aggravating
Keep us up to date

 

[AHicks]

battery now reading 54V
checked continuity of all the wires in the motor and they checked out fine.
no 5 volt reference on red on the motherboard.
on the controller- only 3 of the pins have voltage.

If I might be allowed to do so, I would suggest that just because it's red doesn't mean it's going to/should have voltage. Unless you have an intimate knowledge of what it's SUPPOSED to read, go ahead and look for cold solder joints or loose wires not connected to anything. Beyond that, thinking poking around in there likely to do more harm than good.

BTW, PSWpower are good people, have been around a while, and have a pretty decent reputation. I've dealt with them several times without issue. I did have an issue with a controller once and they just sent a new one, realizing full well the cost to send it back was more than it was worth. If you can identify a bad part, beyond any doubt, try working with them.

 

[ruffruff]

I really don't want to muddy the waters, but a lot of the weak points can actually be the components on the controller board.
Bad capacitor, mosfet, cold solder point etc. When that's the problem they can be tough to isolate if not impossible.

You can pull your hair out until you just decide to replace the whole controller.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I really don't want to muddy the waters, but a lot of the weak points can actually be the components on the controller board.
Bad capacitor, mosfet, cold solder point etc. When that's the problem they can be tough to isolate if not impossible.

You can pull your hair out until you just decide to replace the whole controller.

As it's a new install.. What ever the issues it should be covered under warranty

 

[Ducky77]

Thanks everyone for all of your support and feedback. My husband is a very determined (stubborn) guy and tends to not stop until the issue has been resolved. Obviously he is not a bike mechanic and this is his first time opening up a Tongsheng motor. His expertise is cars, not bikes. Shipping the motor back to China isn’t cost effective. We will reach out to PSW and see if they can assist with trouble shooting. Perhaps we can replace the controller board… but i don’t want to go down the path of blindly replacing components. If all else fails, lesson learned… I’ll buy another motor , this time from a US source. PSW came highly recommended, but I knew I was taking a chance. I was smart enough to buy a quality battery ( I hope) from a local source… as I was most concerned with battery quality!

 

[Ducky77]

If I might be allowed to do so, I would suggest that just because it's red doesn't mean it's going to/should have voltage. Unless you have an intimate knowledge of what it's SUPPOSED to read, go ahead and look for cold solder joints or loose wires not connected to anything. Beyond that, thinking poking around in there likely to do more harm than good.

BTW, PSWpower are good people, have been around a while, and have a pretty decent reputation. I've dealt with them several times without issue. I did have an issue with a controller once and they just sent a new one, realizing full well the cost to send it back was more than it was worth. If you can identify a bad part, beyond any doubt, try working with them.

Yeah, nothing obvious on the controller board…

 

[EMGX]

I can only say what I would do which may not be the best things.
- check continuity of the power cable to the controller, seems unlikely but easy to check
- only plug in the display cable and leave off any accessory cables that you might have like throttle, speed sensor, brake cut offs
- be absolutely certain that the plug connections to the battery and display are intact and fully plugged in. On my wife's hub drive bike I had similar problem when the main cable wasn't fully plugged in even though firmly plugged and the difference between fully plugged in to not working was miniscule.

As you know the controller is potted so there isn't much you can check on the main board

If that failed and if PSW won't send a replacement controller I'd buy a 6 pin version (and ditch the throttle) from eco-ebike for $60 plus shipping and a C3 display. The C3 has a real time voltage display rather than the pretty worthless battery indicator bars. That way you can at least be aware of basic battery function like voltage sag. The C3 also has 5 levels of assist instead of 4, not a big deal but I've found it overall nice to split up the power levels a bit more.

 

[PedalUma]

Please report back on how well your provider handles the problem. As @tomjasz says, local support from a local provider who has skin in the game is important. Customer service for someone else's stuff from half a world away does not make sense. Common advice is different.

 

[EMGX]

Sorry Ducky, I know nothing about the TSDZ2. Suggest you make sure it's a 48V controller. I heard the older 36V models would reject anything over 44 volts. I have a 48V kit, still in box for years. I had planned to work on it this winter, but it's Spring on Monday. Guess it remains low priority.

why don't you just sell it....to me...just kidding...sort of.

 

[Ducky77]

PSW has been great… very responsive to my emails. They are sending us a new controller and display. I’ll let you all know how that goes!