I've just purchased a Turbo Levo FSR and am wondering whats involved in installing a tuning device such as the Sx2 Dongle or PearTune MSO. Does anyone know:
- What steps are involved to get access to the motor to attach the cables for these devices? I've asked the electricbiketuning guys but haven't had a detailed response.
- Do i need to remove the pedals and the front cog? If so do i need a spider tool?
- Do i need to open the motor as well once i have access to it?
- Which is easiest to install?
An alternate option i have is the badassbox but I can't see how it would be installed on the new Turbo Levo FSR models as the magnet is right in behind the rear disc brakes.
Yes, i realize that i will be voiding the warranty however I really want to get higher speed assist on my bike and they guys over on the Haibike forum (
https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/help-deciding-on-which-dongle-to-buy.3534/) who have tuned their bikes absolutely love it.
Any help here would be appreciated.
I will not be allowing the software update to my bike, the current software allows for full motor power from any of the three (eco, trial, and turbo)
The new software lowers the output in each of the three power setting preventing full power unless your in turbo. Anyone who has ridden the bike knows that the power profiles have increasingly less control as the power output increases. If your riding technical trail sections restarting on a slope or worse yet trying to modulate your way through s tricky obstacle is nearly impossible in turbo the power is too hard to control. The mission control app can be adjusted to lower outputs between the three power levels to conserve battery life and I would guess motor life as well. But then there is the drive train issue. I spent $800 to "upgrade" to SRAM EX1 1 x 8 drive train after breaking the same chain twice in two weeks at about 900 miles, I changed the chain but ordered the new drive EX1.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
The EX1 has a couple of problems, the bike shop had to experiment with shims in order to get it to work, not a problem for me as the consumer. However after about 6 months the upper chain roller in the long cage tore itself out stripping the thread both the cage and retaining screw. I had to buy a new derailleur from England GOOD LUCK finding one state side. I'm going to try to get SRAM to warranty the part but have found my local bike shop claiming trail damage, true there are some scratches on the derailleur, however this is SRAM "tougher" drive system because the stock drive trains are self destructing, stay tuned for more on the warranty adventure.
Badass dongle or power boxes do not increase your power output they only remove the 20mph governor, the easier and safer way is my changing wheel circumference on the mission control app, blue light app is free however I lowered wheel circumference to 2000 mm and got another 4 miles an hours out of the bike, the reality is that on level ground the motor has almost no extra power above 20 miles an hours it just runs out of steam.
ALSO a shout out to the Garmen ALT+ handlebar mount power controller
https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/545795
Great device works as promised and very useful switching between eco (set at 30%) and turbo (set at %50) and motor current set at %100 percent. I experimented with the lower power setting that other people were using but when I am trying to mount a rock that failing to clear means falling backwards to earth I am going for the power. This effects my battery life depending on how technical the climbs are in turbo grind my way up and through rock and root hell I will get about 1 mile per indicator green light of charge level, on less demanding level double track about 2 miles per indicator light of charge level.
This is disappointing range but I am asking for a lot of battery in my settings.
Hopes this helps
Ruti