ToSeven DM Series Mid Motors

IMPORTANT:
To prevent poor torque sensor performance, ensure the bike has COMPLETELY STOPPED and that your foot is not on the pedal before powering on THE DISPLAY. (From the 2,7 website.)

John,
I will swing by at 3:45 Sun. for the display video demo. It takes two hands. I can dial the angle of crank kick-in, its now at 3 degrees. Everything is so programable down to milliseconds, and each nano-voltage for each sensor of in-put. Visitors and fans are fully blown away to the state of total incredulity, a frenzy of disbelief. It is just too good. We will show them and followers will be assured by documenting it all live. These settings are not the Koran or Bible; cargo moms have different needs than rock garden dads. It is a gravel bike. That is how it is set. Others may vary and should. Dial your own bike to your own desirers. @Stephan might want a bike he controls to every aspect of his engineering preferences. Or maybe he really likes is off the rack at retail and wants to be a little female dog who is bossed and slapped on the butt with abuse and money taken. Mine is set to a max of 60 kph because that's when it totally spins out. His does 15.3 mph max and then it takes a big dump on the side of the road.

PedalUma
 
Last edited:
PedalUma said:
IMPORTANT:
To prevent poor torque sensor performance, ensure the bike has COMPLETELY STOPPED and that your foot is not on the pedal before powering on THE DISPLAY. (From the 2,7 website.)

John,
I will swing by at 3:45 Sun. for the display video demo. It takes two hands. I can dial the angle of crank kick-in, its now at 3 degrees. Everything is so programable down to milliseconds, and each nano-voltage for each sensor in-put. Visitors and fans are fully blown away to the state of total incredulity, a frenzy of disbelief. We will show them and will be assured by documenting it all live. These settings are not the Koran or Bible; cargo moms have different needs than rock garden dads. It is a gravel bike. That is how it is set. Others may vary and should.

PedalUma
Click to expand...
Dude... I'm glad you're excited and that it's working great for you.. But that's how the programming is done.
The programmable UART Bafangs allow you to dial in crank kick in and the Ultra with torque sensor allows for milli volt and milli second adjustments and all have been available for years.
It does sound perhaps that 2/7 does get a bit more granular... But the real question is... is the end result better?
So with no real instructions and end user decipher needed what you describe is nothing new.
If you have real usable info... Dump it.
 
Cool, so it worked. I tried to upload to the tube, but was hindered by my ignorance. The 80 kph value was a joke. A bike will spinout way before then and I placed top cadence at 110. That black Straggler has been a blast to ride. I never go above level 3 of 8 to climb single track. That is why it is dirty, it loves the dirt. You can also see how I moved the motor up against the downtube and higher than the chainring thwarting potential strikes.
 
JRA said:
Actually the run on feature is baked into their latest software upgrades at certain assist levels for certain motors, I've just seen it mentioned on several platforms.

Problem is that although I have alot of off road motorcycle riding experience I still use the left brakelever for my rear brake and pedal like I always have on a bicycle and so reaching for the throttle while maneuvering underway I don't take time to think about using it and just react with my feet instead. YMMV of course as I know many do depend on the throttle more than I do.

I used to bang my TSDZ2 on logs sometimes also and cringed every time. Only once did it effect me negatively and even then luckily it resolved itself and I was able to continue on my way. But a skid plate is a good idea especially if the motor hangs below the chainring.
Click to expand...
Being able to have a longer trailing assist would be useful at times.. Maybe an on the fly push button for getting through tight rocks where pedals strike?
 
Ken Shopken said:
The new software is fine? I read somewhere about using a phone to upgrade instead of a PC and cable, but I don't know if that is really a thing yet.
Click to expand...
For a premium some displays can be ordered as Bluetooth. I will take a step back for a second to explain something. When you program a display and hit save, it sends that to the controller for a reset. The controller is the size of your thumb tip to the first knuckle. I have not done this yet but once you dial in programing the way you like it, there are ways to then use that to program other controllers to the same specifications. I have the programing cables to do this. Bluetooth to Bluetooth could be fast and easy without cables. There is still so much I do not know.
 
Ken Shopken said:
Being able to have a longer trailing assist would be useful at times.. Maybe an on the fly push button for getting through tight rocks where pedals strike?
Click to expand...
Regularly on mountain bikes programed for rock gardens, kick-in response is immediate and there is no overrun. They are jumpy. To prevent a pedal strike you can repeatedly move a pedal 15 degrees from horizontal in a pumping motion. That is also were instant engagement hubs make a difference.
 
PedalUma said:
For a premium some displays can be ordered as Bluetooth. I will take a step back for a second to explain something. When you program a display and hit save, it sends that to the controller for a reset. The controller is the size of your thumb tip to the first knuckle. I have not done this yet but once you dial in programing the way you like it, there are ways to then use that to program other controllers to the same specifications. I have the programing cables to do this. Bluetooth to Bluetooth could be fast and easy without cables. There is still so much I do not know.
Click to expand...
Yeah, saving a programing file has been a Bafang feature for like... Forever.
PedalUma said:
Regularly on mountain bikes programed for rock gardens, kick-in response is immediate and there is no overrun. They are jumpy. To prevent a pedal strike you can repeatedly move a pedal 15 degrees from horizontal in a pumping motion. That is also were instant engagement hubs make a difference.
Click to expand...
Trying to do that on any type of incline is totally frustrating if not impossible. There's certain climbing situations in which a functional throttle is irreplaceable.
Ken Shopken said:
Being able to have a longer trailing assist would be useful at times.. Maybe an on the fly push button for getting through tight rocks where pedals strike?
Click to expand...
Yeah that push button is called a throttle. And you want a variable output throttle, not a push button as each occurrence can be very different and amount of assistance should be tailored to the situation.
 
Ken Shopken said:
Being able to have a longer trailing assist would be useful at times.. Maybe an on the fly push button for getting through tight rocks where pedals strike?
Click to expand...
Pedal management via ratcheting with instant engagement works better for me at least it always has even pre e? However the onboard throttle I have could do the job if I ever cared to use it for anything other than taking off and a walk assist.
 
Typically bikes with throttles and with cadence only switches, also have brake cut-out levers. With a mid-drive, torque sensor bike, one can feather the front brake to maneuver around logs and over curbs, while up out of the saddle power pedaling for the rear to go. The torque is immediately on tap at the pedal, not on passive standby.
 
While brake cut-outs do exist as you state, they can be easily disconnected.

I 'load up' the bike all the time as you state (on bikes with throttle and cadence only) for the exact reasons you state. Brake cutouts are useless IMHO
 
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