Throttle problem

Well that settles it for all. You guys with problems are all crazy. So is Domino and FastBikes, Sur Ron and the rest. All nuts.
I wonder why that page is dated 2022? What with these all coming great right out of the box ?
I'm the only one that found huge dicrepancies in throttles. They're all the same now. Thumbers too.
This is for "NEW STUFF". 2022 Domino in fact.
See: https://fasterbikes.eu/en/accessories/throttles/203/domino-premium-full-twist-grip-throttle
"Some controllers have problems with the full voltage of the poti - a 470/560 Ohm resistor is recommended".
"You have to connect a 470 Ohm resistor between Bafang RED and Domino BLUE - otherwise the error 04 is shown very quick (less throttle ramp). If you add the second 100 Ohm resistor between the BLUE/BLACK and RED/BLUE wires, then you can use the full throttle range. This will make the throttle react earlier. If you don´t want this behavior, you can simply remove the second resistor (100 Ohm). You can find the Bafang throttle wiring (same as CYC throttle wiring) in our download area."
"© 2022 FasterBikes.eu - All Rights Reserved. Design by TC-Innovations GmbH"
Thanks for setting us straight!

Slow down FnF... No need to repeat the same information over and over as it was understood the first time and it was a disagreement, not a lack of understanding. Perhaps you could benefit from a few 100 ohm resistors yourself 🙃
So now... are you saying that this problem is with all new 2022 UART Bafangs? Or just those with the Intorance/X1 controller? Or are we talking CANBUS as well. It's hard to glean that just from the date of the post.

As far as I can tell... this throttle issue is only seen on the WW forum.
.... and we still haven't seen anything from them on the subject... wut up wit dat?
 
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I recently discussed the throttle problem with Pushkar and he said WW has yet to come up with a better throttle.

He'll need to find one when the Cross Tours finally get into the hands of the people who have ordered one. I suspect that UC Pro and Hydra riders don't use the throttle a lot, but people riding the Cross Tour will be using the throttle most of the time, and if the same throttle ends up on their ebikes Pushkar is going to have a lot of unhappy Cross Tour customers.

I wonder if the throttle works better on the non X1 controller bikes?
 
So if there are some on here posting about their success with throttles of several different kinds, and in fact one was offered to you at the beginning of the year and you refused it, and Pushkar claims that there are no better throttles available then what WW says is gospel? Feel free to put me on ignore as I have most of the WW faithful at this point.
 
The only time I use the throttle on my UC Pro is to get started from a stop. Yesterday, on the way back home from a ride, I tried riding without pedalling and only using the throttle, just to see what it felt like.
When starting from a stop the power output is smooth, but at a constant speed the power output was really jerky.
It felt like I was riding a gas powered motorcycle with ignition issues.

When I fully depress the throttle lever the power delivery is smooth, but when I try to hold a constant speed the power delivery is really jerky.

Any ideas on what's wrong?

Ron
This is an old thread but did you figure this out?
The thumb throttle at full power can tend to be jerky because the power band is so short.
Any slight movement of the thumb will cause the jerky movement you experience, plus it will set up what's called PIO, pilot induced oscillation. Essentially a feed back loop causing greater and greater jerky movements.

The solution is to have precise and steady thumb inputs.

I find it helps tremendously, to press the thumb against the body of the throttle , to keep a steady pace.
 
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Look, I was just trying to help. I could give a damn if you want to use a pot type throttle for some weird reason that you don't feel like sharing.

If you're having trouble with the throttle mode speed vs. current, you've had 2 different people suggest that they like the "current" selection better. That seems to have gone in one ear and out the other and tagged bad information on it's way.

So go for it mister. Be as pissy as you want with others trying to lend a hand, because you just lost any interest I might have in helping.

Have a good day....
I know. I just can't help but call bs when I see it being published.
Why didn't you just say you are guessing and don't have a clue? I wouldn't even care. Please stay out of the Space Program.

(BTW) Neither "Current" nor "Speed" settings for throttle are available in innotrace - my focus.

The number one complaint(s) about throttles is the 'I can't keep any pace'. 'It's either accelerating or decelerating'.
A throttle set to rely on 'CURRENT' input is an on and off switch.
Let me explain this differently to you. It's either on or off. Easy huh?
You can't have 'part of the power" on. Get it?
It's like only hot or only cold from the showerhead.

You must constantly fiddle to try and keep it balanced as it jerks you around - off, then on, then off and then on again - responding to each input. Bike feels like it has Parkinson's. Get it?

I don't care if you ride like Mel Gibson on that donkey in 'Thunderdome'.
You're right for you and I'm sure you'll get exactly what you deserve.
BTW. My throttles work great. All of them have. You're either drunk, mis-read or both.
I hope both.
Happy baloney day,

Sobbing in pain at the loss of loyal friendship and public rejection,

Fn'F
 
I know. I just can't help but call bs when I see it being published.
Why didn't you just say you are guessing and don't have a clue? I wouldn't even care. Please stay out of the Space Program.

(BTW) Neither "Current" nor "Speed" settings for throttle are available in innotrace - my focus.

The number one complaint(s) about throttles is the 'I can't keep any pace'. 'It's either accelerating or decelerating'.
A throttle set to rely on 'CURRENT' input is an on and off switch.
Let me explain this differently to you. It's either on or off. Easy huh?
You can't have 'part of the power" on. Get it?
It's like only hot or only cold from the showerhead.

You must constantly fiddle to try and keep it balanced as it jerks you around - off, then on, then off and then on again - responding to each input. Bike feels like it has Parkinson's. Get it?

I don't care if you ride like Mel Gibson on that donkey in 'Thunderdome'.
You're right for you and I'm sure you'll get exactly what you deserve.
BTW. My throttles work great. All of them have. You're either drunk, mis-read or both.
I hope both.
Happy baloney day,

Sobbing in pain at the loss of loyal friendship and public rejection,

Fn'F
You are correct.
It's not a speed vs current setting, it's PAS or no PAS throttle settings.

In other words you can choose to adjust the amount of throttle along with the PAS setting for the pedal, or not.
Example, if the PAS is set to 1 you get the least amount of throttle response, you will go the slowest top speed with throttle. Set the PAS to highest, you get maximum throttle speed. The option is to have this relationship ..or not.

I don't know if this option is available for your controller, but it is standard on KT controllers, of course they have a confusing Chinese / English name for it.




Al and I had this conversation several time before. Apparently he doesn't understand my explanation.
 
You are correct.
It's not a speed vs current setting, it's PAS or no PAS throttle settings.

In other words you can choose to adjust the amount of throttle along with the PAS setting for the pedal, or not.
Example, if the PAS is set to 1 you get the least amount of throttle response, you will go the slowest top speed with throttle. Set the PAS to highest, you get maximum throttle speed. The option is to have this relationship ..or not.

I don't know if this option is available for your controller, but it is standard on KT controllers, of course they have a confusing Chinese / English name for it.




Al and I had this conversation several time before. Apparently he doesn't understand my explanation.
I may be mistaken, but I think this conversation is regarding a Bafang mid drive controller. Some KT concepts may be in play (speed based vs. power based PAS for instance), but unless you are familiar with both, KT settings pretty useless here...

KT's "imitation torque control" is chinglish for speed based PAS.....
 
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This is an old thread but did you figure this out?
The thumb throttle at full power can tend to be jerky because the power band is so short.
Any slight movement of the thumb will cause the jerky movement you experience, plus it will set up what's called PIO, pilot induced oscillation. Essentially a feed back loop causing greater and greater jerky movements.

The solution is to have precise and steady thumb inputs.

I find it helps tremendously, to press the thumb against the body of the throttle , to keep a steady pace.
With my UC Pro the initial start-off is okay and the power delivery is smooth at full throttle. What I can't do is use the throttle to keep the bike travelling at a constant speed. It surges.
Interestingly, I took my new Hydra for a short ride today and, out of curiosity I tried the throttle. Compared to my UC Pro the throttle response was better and I was able to keep the bike at a constant speed.
I'll do some more testing on tomorrow's ride.
 
@Fast n' Furious I think you are mistaken - as far as documentation & video shows there is no option in the X1 software to set the throttle signals range like in the Bafang stock software as was being discussed. There is just throttle power, which is as described in the Innotrace documentation. JRA posted what the throttle tab looks like in the stock Bafang software, and nobody with an X1 and an account & programming dongle has chimed in to say this is not the case.

1659517474443.png


To reiterate the values you describe here are not doing what you posit they are doing... this is setting the max current for the throttle, as described in the above snip from Innotrace documentation. You are thinking of the settings in the stock Bafang software to set the signal range to expect.
1659604799596.png


Also would like to add, As per Domino's OE page they make both hall effect & potentiometric throttles and it should be noted hall sensors can be made waterproof and are non-contact meaning there is no wear. A potentiometer will eventually fail, and you're not guaranteed a 0V output when it fails. To quote someone in the E-S thread you linked 'they are both just variable resistors, one uses a magnet and the hall effect, the other uses a potentiometer' - all you are doing is taking an input voltage, and giving an output voltage (signal) for the controller to read. The controller's software is telling it what voltage values to use for signal range of 0-1 to interpolate between 0-100% output power. The potentiometer has the benefit of having its own friction/damping as a result of how the switch functions (mechanical), which no doubt lends to the smoother feeling by helping combat PIO that Jes mentioned and providing some resistance the user can feel. The lack of damping/friction in a hall sensor throttle can be compensated for either mechanically in the design of the throttle (as is probably the case in the Domino hall sensor version) and/or in the software via smoothing - but the latter comes at the cost of responsiveness unless the software distinguishes larger jumps in input from what would be assumed to be PIO.

Let's do a little exercise here, assuming you have a throttle that outputs 1.5-4.5V through its range. Keep in mind this is an oversimplification for illustrative purposes, there may or may not be functions in there to handle backing off the power at speed as well - but judging from Deacon's experience probably not.

when throttle output = 1.5, throttle_input = 0; when throttle output = 4.5V, throttle_input = 1 (this is not how it would be written in the software but this is how the software would interpret these values)

throttle_power = 30 (this is set by the user, to be 30A - try not to get bogged down be semantics, when we talk power in amps we're referring to power output at that current at whatever battery pack voltage is supplied)
max_throttle_speed = 40 (this is set by the user, to be 40kmh)

Current setting: while current_speed<max_throttle_speed, throttle_input*throttle_power=power_output (so if the throttle uses a linear variable resistor, at 25% of the throw on the throttle by the user, we would see 0.25*30=7.5A value for power_output, as long as the bike is below the max_throttle_speed)

Speed setting: if throttle_input/max_throttle_speed>current_speed then power_output=throttle_power (so if the throttle uses a linear variable resistor, at 25% of the throw the power_output will be 30A until the bike reaches 10kmh)

I have a feeling the jerkiness when tryin to maintain a constant speed is due to the on/off power application when using throttle position to determine speed, versus power output. Using it to determine power output directly could potentially still result in jerkiness but only once the rider has achieved max speed, and then how dramatic the effect would be would depend on a few factors like throttle power and max speed settings.

I feel bad for Deacon, it's a recurring theme for his threads to get cluttered up with a lot of 'tangentially related discussion' but I guess that's what he gets for being active and asking the hard questions, or... asking the wrong people?

I for one would like to see a parallel feature to the Bafang Throttle tab in the X1 tuning software. I think between that and using linear sensors - even in the meh stock throttle housing options - would give users all they need to get the smoothness and response they want. I think the best WW can do here is be an advocate for Innotrace to expose these parameters to the user, and depending on how many people are actually mentioning the throttle response to them maybe spend the $50 it would cost to get a lot of 500 SS49E's and mod them into the stock throttles they get from Bafang.
 
@Fast n' Furious,
You f*ck with Gentlemen @AHicks... you're fuckiń with me.
So you say that Neither "Current" nor "Speed" settings for throttle are available in innotrace - my focus"... So why do you keep mentioning them?
You spend a great deal of effort explaining ON/OFF when Current is used yet you can't change the setting?
If you found some work around for the X1 controller... Great.
But be clear about it then because you couldn't be more wrong when talking about the Bafang controller and its available settings and what works best for the desired results wanted here.

@JES2020
As usually, nothing relevant. This is big boy/big brain mid drive talk here of which you claim are beyond your capabilities... best keep it that way.


@Deacon Blues
It is what it is.... Either go for this hack to get around the X1 short comings when it comes to the throttle or put a stock Bafang controller on and have multiple easy to set and use throttles that work as you want. No one is going to mass produce a throttle for such a small market.

@loamoaf
Thank you.
 
@Fast n' Furious I think you are mistaken - as far as documentation & video shows there is no option in the X1 software to set the throttle signals range like in the Bafang stock software as was being discussed. There is just throttle power, which is as described in the Innotrace documentation. JRA posted what the throttle tab looks like in the stock Bafang software, and nobody with an X1 and an account & programming dongle has chimed in to say this is not the case.

View attachment 131073

To reiterate the values you describe here are not doing what you posit they are doing... this is setting the max current for the throttle, as described in the above snip from Innotrace documentation. You are thinking of the settings in the stock Bafang software to set the signal range to expect.
View attachment 131134

Also would like to add, As per Domino's OE page they make both hall effect & potentiometric throttles and it should be noted hall sensors can be made waterproof and are non-contact meaning there is no wear. A potentiometer will eventually fail, and you're not guaranteed a 0V output when it fails. To quote someone in the E-S thread you linked 'they are both just variable resistors, one uses a magnet and the hall effect, the other uses a potentiometer' - all you are doing is taking an input voltage, and giving an output voltage (signal) for the controller to read. The controller's software is telling it what voltage values to use for signal range of 0-1 to interpolate between 0-100% output power. The potentiometer has the benefit of having its own friction/damping as a result of how the switch functions (mechanical), which no doubt lends to the smoother feeling by helping combat PIO that Jes mentioned and providing some resistance the user can feel. The lack of damping/friction in a hall sensor throttle can be compensated for either mechanically in the design of the throttle (as is probably the case in the Domino hall sensor version) and/or in the software via smoothing - but the latter comes at the cost of responsiveness unless the software distinguishes larger jumps in input from what would be assumed to be PIO.

Let's do a little exercise here, assuming you have a throttle that outputs 1.5-4.5V through its range. Keep in mind this is an oversimplification for illustrative purposes, there may or may not be functions in there to handle backing off the power at speed as well - but judging from Deacon's experience probably not.

when throttle output = 1.5, throttle_input = 0; when throttle output = 4.5V, throttle_input = 1 (this is not how it would be written in the software but this is how the software would interpret these values)

throttle_power = 30 (this is set by the user, to be 30A - try not to get bogged down be semantics, when we talk power in amps we're referring to power output at that current at whatever battery pack voltage is supplied)
max_throttle_speed = 40 (this is set by the user, to be 40kmh)

Current setting: while current_speed<max_throttle_speed, throttle_input*throttle_power=power_output (so if the throttle uses a linear variable resistor, at 25% of the throw on the throttle by the user, we would see 0.25*30=7.5A value for power_output, as long as the bike is below the max_throttle_speed)

Speed setting: if throttle_input/max_throttle_speed>current_speed then power_output=throttle_power (so if the throttle uses a linear variable resistor, at 25% of the throw the power_output will be 30A until the bike reaches 10kmh)

I have a feeling the jerkiness when tryin to maintain a constant speed is due to the on/off power application when using throttle position to determine speed, versus power output. Using it to determine power output directly could potentially still result in jerkiness but only once the rider has achieved max speed, and then how dramatic the effect would be would depend on a few factors like throttle power and max speed settings.

I feel bad for Deacon, it's a recurring theme for his threads to get cluttered up with a lot of 'tangentially related discussion' but I guess that's what he gets for being active and asking the hard questions, or... asking the wrong people?

I for one would like to see a parallel feature to the Bafang Throttle tab in the X1 tuning software. I think between that and using linear sensors - even in the meh stock throttle housing options - would give users all they need to get the smoothness and response they want. I think the best WW can do here is be an advocate for Innotrace to expose these parameters to the user, and depending on how many people are actually mentioning the throttle response to them maybe spend the $50 it would cost to get a lot of 500 SS49E's and mod them into the stock throttles they get from Bafang.
You're right Bro. I checked w/ BB on that and certain parameters are unavailable
But that nobody with an X1 and an account & programming dongle has chimed in to say this is not the case" re: JRA's post is incorrect.
JRA say's himself that this is not for innotrace/ WW etc. He was just being helpful, a good guy and showing what worked for him. That's no a WW and not and Ultra G510.
It was pretty cool he went to the trouble of repeating himself, but he stated the caveat, not wanting but giving. 'Ol bigmouth (here) had to go and say "those settings are incorrect". Maybe he will try 49V and it will help him.
His bikes programming parameters are slick, with proper permissions. Best I've seen
But no matter. 4.0V is still the wrong setting (there he goes again) across the entire Bafang range (ouch, he's worse) and I posted Austrian, FastBikes as a ref showing the correct ones from Domino.
Unless it's a 36V, JRA's motor can barely gasp along @ 40V. But his throttle is set to top out at that 'barely gasping' 40V ?

You even ride your bike down to 40V, I pity your batteries - soon to be deceased.
Your BMS signals 'low voltage' on weakest cell while trying to balance. When 'Low V' threshold is exceeded (in one rat cell), the BMS will refuse to charge the rest. The differences in V between the cells keeps up a power drain even when parked, while the BMS seeks equilibrium.
2.8V is well within published 'Dead' threshold specs used in BMS programs for some Samsung 18650's I have.
That's 40V in a 14S4P 48V pack. I'm at 50V right now. 44 - 46V I'm on the charger.
I never risk one 'needy' cell killing my pack. That's another topic - well described Gospel by our (MIA) resident electrician from San Diego East.
49V on top is published as correct.
You misunderstand me. There is no "X1" software. It's 'innotrace' software.
We're saying the same thing just using different nomenclature. Epistemology misfunction.
I've discussed the matter with WW and have had the Domino planned from the outset.
When I get my bike, I'll have the rights to ask innotrace and will. Until then, I've been fishing for info, and that's the old stuff in settings.
BB has published the new version too. The setting is still absent as well.
From listening to the behavior WW owners describe, innotrace can could be set to either to "Speed' or "Current", or it could set itself to the correct setting with a poti throttle.
That level of programming is there, but unavailable to users unless you have 'admin' privilege's.
Most likely, innotrace default is "Speed" and the rest is that thumb throttle are simply garbage.
I say that because my present bike denies access to those paremiters and thumb throttles all failed, while the grip twist types work well.
The massively powerful TS and Cadence assist masked this WW fault to some degree, as many of those trying to simply cruise on throttle have now discovered.
The big symptom you are running on "current" sensing seems to be the same symptom of ALL thumb throttles I've tried.
ALL, not some. I too once thought it was my thumb twitching. Uh uh. It's the throttle is incorrect. One of a half dozen twist grip types I've had suffered issues. The rest worked great.
I've heard (from a super reliable source I'm not at liberty to disclose) innotrace has known issues that will not be addressed until 2023. WW must wait on innotrace who is way behind.
-
Rest assured, if a Domino 0 - 5ohm will work correctly on my forthcoming WW, I'm determined to find out how, program and install it.
My MXUS powered 100Nm machine's throttle is great. I reduce throttle input it slows to that value and cruises right there.
It will back down if I'm running 960watts throttle and full Torque Sensor input at 31.5mph, but I could ride just throttle all day long if I preferred, or had to and it's smooth as a baby's bottom.

Ride On !

Fn'F
 
Throttle News.
I'm in the process of finishing up a Domino 0 - 5ohm, ip67 throttle installation on my 1000watt, MXUS rear hub bik , but it's only part of the projects upgrades that include Magura MT5e's and MDRP's rotors and, Archer D1x wireless shifting and a new cassette and Box derailleur.
Blew it again too. My math was impeccable, so I purchased a 220mm MDRP disc and correct adapter.
No fittie 😵‍💫? The mount on my new fork is 160mm, not 180mm.
I saved it for my (soon, soon, soon) WattWagon's and ordered a 203mm.
It appears the WattWagon will also have a Domino.
I'm three cables, one's 1.5 x fatter - to hide the three wire throttle cable and five wire display cable. Mounted on the bars it does resemble a motorcycle's.
My method of figuring out the wiring's simple.
A VOM. Three (relevant) throttle wires. Three Controller wires.
Bike on: At controller end (VOM @ 20v) one wire tests 4.9>, the other two (ground and signal) test like grounds.
Bike off: Connect the 5v (4.9>) to Domino's Blue wire. Connect the Domino's Black to another wire and the White wire to the remaining wire from the controller.
Turn bike on - rear wheel off the ground: Test the throttle. If the throttle works perfectly, it's correct w/ Black and White wires.
If the throttle takes off uncontrollably, I shut bike off; reverse the two wires ; retest - and works perfect.
If I get them wrong I'm applying 'ground' to 'signal'. No biggie. It's just 'on'. Normally, the potentiometer does the same thing, in metered amounts - per your input. Wired wrong, you can stop it with your brakes, let off it'll start right back up.

The Domino throttle

It's 155mm (total body/grip length) BIG. A long, 123mm grip and 32mm body.
Lot's of variations in mounting, with (depending where you rotate it) flat areas providing clearance for wireless things and brakes. Not for my old Shimano shifter though. Needs a real 'matchmaker'. The Archer's mount has clearance that allows fitting the shifter buttons 18mm under the body - exactly where my thumb goes, but space gained by most placements assure the wires are more prominent - rather than say, under the brake lever.
The Magura levers play nice. Fit's great.
Another warning: No 'twist grip' throttle body should make contact with any other accessories controls. Tightening down while touching can/ will lead to a very slight 'warping' effect and intermittent cut-out/ run-away throttle effects.
Domino's return action (1/4 turn) is fast, strong and sure. It takes some force to twist. If you notice any play, it's not tightened down correctly.
Unlike other twisties I've tried that actually require you push them on tightly to interface the throttle firmly with the bars, you can push the Domino on too far and creating drag on the grip's. They're soft and you can feel when the bar's ends are poking the rubber. Bars ends/ Rubber should not touch.
It's well made (but has Phillips Head bolts I'm sure I'll change out) and the grips are super comfortable rubber, easily replaced.
The domino's 22awg wire is easily soldered to my 22awg wires w/ 3 pin JST's fittings (eBay, readymade for LED's).
My controller has 24awg.
The Higo's are 28awg ?
I'm not alone in noticing that using 22awg from throttle to controller 'feels like' a noticeable performance increase over the 28awg.
.................................
I'll post some photos and the results of my resistance check/ the resistors, should I install any.

It's Frankenbike right now. Still have to finish the Archer set up and I need a longer cable.
The Domino will be real sweet on my titanium WattWagon's Ultra, with the ti Jones H bars I have planned. Quite similar to this set-up.
An Archer D1x will likely end up on the WW too. It's just more realistic to replace a reasonably priced derailleur/ cassette and have separate electronic shifting than to go with fancy Sram or Shimano on parts that will certainly wear out - quickly.

Ride on

Fn'F
 
@Fast n' Furious,
You f*ck with Gentlemen @AHicks... you're fuckiń with me.
So you say that Neither "Current" nor "Speed" settings for throttle are available in innotrace - my focus"... So why do you keep mentioning them?
You spend a great deal of effort explaining ON/OFF when Current is used yet you can't change the setting?
If you found some work around for the X1 controller... Great.
But be clear about it then because you couldn't be more wrong when talking about the Bafang controller and its available settings and what works best for the desired results wanted here.

@JES2020
As usually, nothing relevant. This is big boy/big brain mid drive talk here of which you claim are beyond your capabilities... best keep it that way.


@Deacon Blues
It is what it is.... Either go for this hack to get around the X1 short comings when it comes to the throttle or put a stock Bafang controller on and have multiple easy to set and use throttles that work as you want. No one is going to mass produce a throttle for such a small market.

@loamoaf
Thank you.
But you don't own these things or understand them and never have? Zero qualifications to even peep about throttles, but lots of recommendations. You just guess huh?
There are no "X1 Short comings [sic]". It's your lack of comprehension and experience.
-
We'll take your advice 🦧and "hack" 🪓our "X1" Controlled WW machines "to stock bafang" controllers.
Except that won't even work - and I'm not taking time to explain the obvious to you so you'll keep talking crazy and 'remove all doubt' to the initiated.

"No one is going to mass produce a throttle for such a small market" ?????

😂🤣😉 I disagree.

Domino does - as I've ordered/ is now confirmed and is scheduled to come on my 2500watt WattWagons with the X1.
Also, I just installed one on another 1000watt machine.
Magura and numerous companies produce e-bike, twist grip throttles.
Lots of critical. No cites. No reasoning. No-nothing about throttles, innotrace, electronics or any aspect of the topic.
Incogent reasoning. Factually inaccurate.
So yeah. What a pile.

I'm just getting back, 10 weeks laid up from a wreck.
A little grumpy after kicking the pain meds, my mental acuity's returned to 100% so a bit short 'suffering fools'.
Nothing I like less than advice given by people that don't know what the hell they're talking about.

Fn'F
 
Slow down FnF... No need to repeat the same information over and over as it was understood the first time and it was a disagreement, not a lack of understanding. Perhaps you could benefit from a few 100 ohm resistors yourself 🙃
So now... are you saying that this problem is with all new 2022 UART Bafangs? Or just those with the Intorance/X1 controller? Or are we talking CANBUS as well. It's hard to glean that just from the date of the post.

As far as I can tell... this throttle issue is only seen on the WW forum.
.... and we still haven't seen anything from them on the subject... wut up wit dat?
The throttle issue is across the spectrum, not just (lol) WW or X1, or innotrace.
It's like putting a one-barrel Solex on a 6.9 Hemi. Dumptruck throttles won't grow Lambo performance with a better a machine.
Incessant badmouthing products they don't own one ? Well, let's not go there. We all guess through life for the most part.
A $9.95 throttle on a $10K machine is real the problem - often complicated by a morbid fear of wires, sometimes extending to wrenches.
Gist is: My X1's tuned to 2500watts, so I need a throttle that will handle 1500watts.
With a resistor, I can change that to 2000watts, but not my goal.
Another resistor provides 'instant on' - nah, not my (experienced) thing either.
Now mind you, this is ALL ebikes, not just (if that's even the case) WattWagons.
One thing is clear. A quality throttle goes with and $10k WW machine.
I'm using one a $2K bike - I've upgraded a bit.
20220922_143047[1].jpg
20220922_142915[1].jpg
Bars are a bit busy.
Installing by testing as I've described, the now soldered 22awg's w/ JST connectors work perfectly.
Missing the first time, I tried just switching the wires, but (as I thought from past experiences) had to reboot after the wrong signal/ ground.

Thanks,

F'nF u2
 
You're right Bro. I checked w/ BB on that and certain parameters are unavailable
But that nobody with an X1 and an account & programming dongle has chimed in to say this is not the case" re: JRA's post is incorrect.
JRA say's himself that this is not for innotrace/ WW etc. He was just being helpful, a good guy and showing what worked for him. That's no a WW and not and Ultra G510.
It was pretty cool he went to the trouble of repeating himself, but he stated the caveat, not wanting but giving. 'Ol bigmouth (here) had to go and say "those settings are incorrect". Maybe he will try 49V and it will help him.
His bikes programming parameters are slick, with proper permissions. Best I've seen
But no matter. 4.0V is still the wrong setting (there he goes again) across the entire Bafang range (ouch, he's worse) and I posted Austrian, FastBikes as a ref showing the correct ones from Domino.
Unless it's a 36V, JRA's motor can barely gasp along @ 40V. But his throttle is set to top out at that 'barely gasping' 40V ?

You even ride your bike down to 40V, I pity your batteries - soon to be deceased.
Your BMS signals 'low voltage' on weakest cell while trying to balance. When 'Low V' threshold is exceeded (in one rat cell), the BMS will refuse to charge the rest. The differences in V between the cells keeps up a power drain even when parked, while the BMS seeks equilibrium.
2.8V is well within published 'Dead' threshold specs used in BMS programs for some Samsung 18650's I have.
That's 40V in a 14S4P 48V pack. I'm at 50V right now. 44 - 46V I'm on the charger.
I never risk one 'needy' cell killing my pack. That's another topic - well described Gospel by our (MIA) resident electrician from San Diego East.
49V on top is published as correct.
You misunderstand me. There is no "X1" software. It's 'innotrace' software.
We're saying the same thing just using different nomenclature. Epistemology misfunction.
I've discussed the matter with WW and have had the Domino planned from the outset.
When I get my bike, I'll have the rights to ask innotrace and will. Until then, I've been fishing for info, and that's the old stuff in settings.
BB has published the new version too. The setting is still absent as well.
From listening to the behavior WW owners describe, innotrace can could be set to either to "Speed' or "Current", or it could set itself to the correct setting with a poti throttle.
That level of programming is there, but unavailable to users unless you have 'admin' privilege's.
Most likely, innotrace default is "Speed" and the rest is that thumb throttle are simply garbage.
I say that because my present bike denies access to those paremiters and thumb throttles all failed, while the grip twist types work well.
The massively powerful TS and Cadence assist masked this WW fault to some degree, as many of those trying to simply cruise on throttle have now discovered.
The big symptom you are running on "current" sensing seems to be the same symptom of ALL thumb throttles I've tried.
ALL, not some. I too once thought it was my thumb twitching. Uh uh. It's the throttle is incorrect. One of a half dozen twist grip types I've had suffered issues. The rest worked great.
I've heard (from a super reliable source I'm not at liberty to disclose) innotrace has known issues that will not be addressed until 2023. WW must wait on innotrace who is way behind.
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Rest assured, if a Domino 0 - 5ohm will work correctly on my forthcoming WW, I'm determined to find out how, program and install it.
My MXUS powered 100Nm machine's throttle is great. I reduce throttle input it slows to that value and cruises right there.
It will back down if I'm running 960watts throttle and full Torque Sensor input at 31.5mph, but I could ride just throttle all day long if I preferred, or had to and it's smooth as a baby's bottom.

Ride On !

Fn'F
@ loamoaf. "nobody with an X1 and an account & programming dongle has chimed in to say this is not the case."
Evidently WattWagons has 'chimed in'. At my request, they're installing a Domino on my UC.
My understanding is the resistor is not a general "problem". Appears to work great on my 1000watt bike without any. Big powered bikes may be different.
 
Throttle update:
As some of you may already know, I have a UC Pro and a Hydra and both, as far as I know, have the same Archon X1 controller, motor, and throttle.
The Throttle (as I've mentioned in this thread) on the UC Pro is terrible, but the throttle on my Hydra is excellent. o_O
I used the throttle on my last ride on the trails and on the pavement and it worked perfectly......go figure.
 
Throttle update:
As some of you may already know, I have a UC Pro and a Hydra and both, as far as I know, have the same Archon X1 controller, motor, and throttle.
The Throttle (as I've mentioned in this thread) on the UC Pro is terrible, but the throttle on my Hydra is excellent. o_O
I used the throttle on my last ride on the trails and on the pavement and it worked perfectly......go figure.
Wet?
 
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