Thoughts on CrossCurrent Air?

Out of curiosity, did you order through your LBS or from juiced directly?
Through a local store in order to get a rebate from the city. I'm a bit bummed out because the Juiced website said last week they were going to begin shipping backorders right away but as of yesterday they haven't even shipped yet.
 
Ok thanks for the response. I ordered direct from them today and supposedly it would ship out by the end of the week so I'll update as it goes along. Out of curiosity again, what other ebikes were you looking at? I was about to get a Motiv stash but I was hesitant about the price, also the Voltbike Urban. Yes I was looking at folding bikes for a 4 mile commute but the CC with the upgrades sold me. That and Juiced email respsonses were pretty quick.
 
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Ok thanks for the response. I ordered direct from them today and supposedly it would ship out by the end of the week so I'll update as it goes along. Out of curiosity again, what other ebikes were you looking at? I was about to get a Motiv stash but I was hesitant about the price, also the Voltbike Urban. Yes I was looking at folding bikes for a 2 mile commute but the CC with the upgrades sold me. That and Juiced email respsonses were pretty quick.
Man there were so many I looked at I can hardly remember them all but the main companies I considered were Rad Power Bikes, Easy Motion, and Giant. Nothing seemed to come close to the price per features of the Juiced bikes. I test rode an original CrossCurrent and decided to add the torque sensor to my AIR order. It feels so much more fluid than the cadence sensor only.
 
Through a local store in order to get a rebate from the city. I'm a bit bummed out because the Juiced website said last week they were going to begin shipping backorders right away but as of yesterday they haven't even shipped yet.
 
Got the CrossCurrent Air today! Put it together and took it for a test ride and it's neat (as a first ebike). I'm getting rid of my Honda CBR (commuter) and think this is perfect. I have to admit, it's heavier than I expected but I should be able to shave some weight by losing the kick stand, swapping the saddle for a road saddle (I also ride cyclocross), swapping the seatpost for a carbon fiber one, and using spd pedals instead of platforms. I'll try and do a write up later if I get some more time on the saddle.
 
Got the CrossCurrent Air today! Put it together and took it for a test ride and it's neat (as a first ebike). I'm getting rid of my Honda CBR (commuter) and think this is perfect. I have to admit, it's heavier than I expected but I should be able to shave some weight by losing the kick stand, swapping the saddle for a road saddle (I also ride cyclocross), swapping the seatpost for a carbon fiber one, and using spd pedals instead of platforms. I'll try and do a write up later if I get some more time on the saddle.
The extra weight doesn't matter that much because you have the electric motor. Professional road cyclists put out about 300-450 watts of power, so it's kind of like Chris Froome is peddling at the same time you are. If you use to commute I would get some puncture resistant tires and have a get home kit. I have a trunk bag with a spare inner-tube, wrench to take off the back wheel, Allen wrenches, puncture repair kit and a hand pump. All of that adds weight but you will be thankful for it when you get a puncture. Especially if you are on your way to work. I'd also get a bike computer, as this will no doubt be the faster you have ever ridden a bicycle. Its easy to misjudge your speed when making turns and can be dangerous. I thought i was going slower than I actually was. After I added a bike computer I was surprised to see I was hitting speeds of around 30 mph at times on my commute.
 
The extra weight doesn't matter that much because you have the electric motor. Professional road cyclists put out about 300-450 watts of power, so it's kind of like Chris Froome is peddling at the same time you are. If you use to commute I would get some puncture resistant tires and have a get home kit. I have a trunk bag with a spare inner-tube, wrench to take off the back wheel, Allen wrenches, puncture repair kit and a hand pump. All of that adds weight but you will be thankful for it when you get a puncture. Especially if you are on your way to work. I'd also get a bike computer, as this will no doubt be the faster you have ever ridden a bicycle. Its easy to misjudge your speed when making turns and can be dangerous. I thought i was going slower than I actually was. After I added a bike computer I was surprised to see I was hitting speeds of around 30 mph at times on my commute.
I commute mainly on a Honda CBR motorcycle, but a couple times a month I use a Fuji Tread or a Torker U District (fixed gear). When I commute on my Tread/U District, I carry patches, extra tube, CO2, mini pump, chain tool, Allen keys, and Surly Jethro Tool (as the Torker does not use quick releases).

At any rate, I'm not fooling myself to think I'd shave a lot of weight with the stand, seatpost, pedals; it's more what I'm used to riding with. I'm gonna commute tomorrow on the Air and will have a better idea of how it handles. I have to say it was a chore to put the battery in the down tube, but figured it out. I hope it's not a big deal when I park tomorrow at the office.
 
I commute mainly on a Honda CBR motorcycle, but a couple times a month I use a Fuji Tread or a Torker U District (fixed gear). When I commute on my Tread/U District, I carry patches, extra tube, CO2, mini pump, chain tool, Allen keys, and Surly Jethro Tool (as the Torker does not use quick releases).

At any rate, I'm not fooling myself to think I'd shave a lot of weight with the stand, seatpost, pedals; it's more what I'm used to riding with. I'm gonna commute tomorrow on the Air and will have a better idea of how it handles. I have to say it was a chore to put the battery in the down tube, but figured it out. I hope it's not a big deal when I park tomorrow at the office.

Please let me know how to put the battery in the down tube, I cannot seem to figure it out and I feel so stupid :(
 
I'd also get a bike computer, as this will no doubt be the faster you have ever ridden a bicycle. Its easy to misjudge your speed when making turns and can be dangerous. I thought i was going slower than I actually was. After I added a bike computer I was surprised to see I was hitting speeds of around 30 mph at times on my commute.
I was planning on using an iphone speedometer app, does anyone have experience with these and know how accurate they are?
 
At any rate, I'm not fooling myself to think I'd shave a lot of weight with the stand, seatpost, pedals
The biggest improvement to weight for me will hopefully be the few extra pounds I hope to shave off of myself after biking to work for a while! Not that I'm much overweight but just turned 40 and metabolism is definitely slowing down, haha!
 
Please let me know how to put the battery in the down tube, I cannot seem to figure it out and I feel so stupid :([/QU
I had exactly the same problem. The battery is hard to get in, but with practice it will get easier. I think they made it a tight fit because sometimes those type of battery tend to rattle if they are not really tight. Also, the little handle on the side is good for nothing.
 
How easy is it to take off the rear wheel? Is it just a matter of unplugging the motor and loosening the bolts and removing chain?
 
Commute was a breeze today. I'll get in to that later as I need more saddle time.

So I'm dialing it in to the ergonomics I like so I've done a little work swapping parts, trimming stuff. Almost 11.5 ounces alone are the kickstand. The next biggest loss of weight was the saddle; I like road saddles not the cushioned stock one losing another 5 ounces. It's an Origm8 saddle (not the lightest) but I like the simplicity of it. Trimmed the seatpost, swapped the platform pedals for SPDs and totaled a little over 22 ounces.

Next I'm gonna shorten the width or swap out the handlebars cause they're waaaayyyy too wide. I'm also going to slam the stem so I'm gonna trim the fork steerer tube, lose the spacers cause I like a little more forward leaning versus upright. I have a longish carbon stem so I might try that to cut down the buzz from the rigid forks. Maybe.

I do have to admit the ride was great today. Mainly flat with one 300 yard incline. I had all the stock stuff on so it wasn't as comfy as I liked so I'll have to give it a whirl tomorrow with my little mods.
 
How easy is it to take off the rear wheel? Is it just a matter of unplugging the motor and loosening the bolts and removing chain?
If it's anything like removing a Shimano Nexus internal hub, then it's a pain if you're out and about. But I THINK if you look at the schematics on the juiced website it would be relatively easy (at home with the right tools and ability to control where parts roll around). When I take that apart, I have to remember to take a picture of every step of the way so I can go backwards in putting the wheel back on.
 
So it sounds like some of you have had trouble installing the battery on the new Air shipment? My bike is currently at the dealer where I bought it from and the guy there is having trouble too and thinks there is a twist in the down tube. Do you think he's just experiencing the same trouble? I'm hoping to hell that I don't have to wait for a new bike to ship!
 
The battery was not installed in the bike, right? The first time was a little difficult as I wasn't sure if the battery had been installed before (which I'm guessing wasn't). It took a few minutes to figure out how to slap it in to snap it ("slap it to snap it"...i should trademark that).

I've taken off the battery 3x since I got the bike (once to reset the ecu when it wouldn't turn on).

I would think juiced would throw a video up of installing the battery as they've got tons of other videos available.
 
The CC Airs on this production run have a little more snug fit of the battery. We adjusted it so it does not jiggle around like on some other bikes that use this platform. It is a little tight on the first couple of installs, but then it works fine. Several customers reported this and after showing them this video every one got it in with out much issue. All the bikes have been tested before leaving the factory and the packs fit. You might have to "put your back into it" though.


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How easy is it to take off the rear wheel? Is it just a matter of unplugging the motor and loosening the bolts and removing chain?
It's not difficult but it's not something you want to do very often if you can help it. That's why puncture resistant tires are good. After you unscrew the bolts, there is also a washer held on in by a small bolt. Have the chain so its on the smallest cog. Lift the derailleur with your left hand and carefully remove the wheel with your right hand. Getting it back on is a little more tricky, but gets easier with practice.
 
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