This is not good, and its my fault
- Thread starter Chargeride
- Start date
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
No idea. Is it the 6-bolt system?
Chargeride
Well-Known Member
Yes, to the flange, but that part is threaded onto the hub, I thought it was just a cheap setup on my bike, but lots of hubs thread on the rotor holder.
It just stripped and let go, probably because I fitted a 203mm rotor.
Bit concerning to be honest, I might leave one bolt in when I get the new part.
It just stripped and let go, probably because I fitted a 203mm rotor.
Bit concerning to be honest, I might leave one bolt in when I get the new part.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
My brother tells me cheap Chinese hubs are made that way. It is intrinsically unsafe. Quality hubs for disk brakes are never made this way.
Chargeride
Well-Known Member
This is the part that stripped, I pretty sure it's a bad idea to mix aluminium and steel anyway.
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Those adapters are meant to do a disk conversion on a flip-flop hub. Thats a pretty esoteric need, which has been exploited by Far Eastern cheap hub builders to serve a very different purpose.
I know its easy for me to spend your money, but I would run in the other direction of a hub like that. Its not about putting a 203 on it. Its just inherently badbadbad and you found out why the hard way.
EDIT: The aluminum+steel thing is easy to deal with using something everyone in the automotive world understands out of the gate, and seems to be almost unknown to most shade tree bicycle mechanics: Put anti-seize on the threads. This lubricates the threads as well which is something the aforementioned shade tree bike mechanics will gasp at with horror because they think thread locker is supposed to be a good thing and can't conceive of why the opposite is the right thing to do almost always. Park Tool sells an overpriced anti-seize but the simple cheap silver anti-seize at the local neighborhood auto parts shop is all you need.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
Count your blessings that it did not happen when you were riding downhill or riding behind a truck or car!
Chargeride
Well-Known Member
I said it was my fault, because I've ridden the bike in salt water, and it's unlikely power washing got the salt back out.
I guess it eroded the alloy thread, you live and learn.
I won't show you my botch fix to ride the bike the next day
I guess it eroded the alloy thread, you live and learn.
I won't show you my botch fix to ride the bike the next day
Chargeride
Well-Known Member
OK I will, but dont judge, I only had the next day to ride and wasnt going to get the parts that quick.
I drilled right through the hub flange with six long bolts to hold it all together, worked very well.
Thats going nowhere.
bit out of focus, the thread was completely gone, I had no idea it was a separate piece., what a ludicrously fragile bit of alloy to take full braking power from
my weight and an ebike, quite clearly the force is in the wrong direction for the strength a thread supplies, it just kept overtightening it till it stripped.
Solid hub on order
I drilled right through the hub flange with six long bolts to hold it all together, worked very well.
Thats going nowhere.
bit out of focus, the thread was completely gone, I had no idea it was a separate piece., what a ludicrously fragile bit of alloy to take full braking power from
my weight and an ebike, quite clearly the force is in the wrong direction for the strength a thread supplies, it just kept overtightening it till it stripped.
Solid hub on order
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
Anti_seize is often a good idea even on threaded aluminum to aluminum. Prevents oxidation binding and makes disassembly much easier.
Sometimes it's like Franks Hot Sauce.... I put that sh*t on everything!
Glad you're all right.
I had a brake failure recently so I know well the scare it can give. Seems the "bike mechanic" didn't torque the compression nut at the rear lever properly and the seal blew out during an aggressive braking. But he did remember to slide the plastic boot over the compression nut to conceal his error
You've just had a lucky escape - If you're riding at a level where you needed 203 mm rotors, perhaps it's time to take a good look at those forks and hubs ?
Do you really want the front wheel dropping out ? Or the lugs snapping off those forks? Or worse .
Start by checking what size rotors those forks are rated at . A quick check of my fleet - the bikes with suicide forks have 160 mm rotors. Anything with 180 mm or higher has through axles and more than 34 mm stanchions. In fact, the 32 mm fox factory forks on my daughters trance are only rated to 180 mm - in their time, they were top of the range competition suspension, yet that bike manages with 160 mm rotors and is still capable of serious braking ( admittedly it only has 26" wheels , and weighs 12 kg)
I recently upgraded the brakes on my levo sl to 4 pot xt's , at the time I considered replacing the stock 200 mm rotors with something bigger, but even my uprated fox 36 forks were only capable of running 203 mm - that's serious braking force!
That rotor you are using is the same as my sons giant reign advanced - he has fox 38 mm forks that retail for $2000 .
Do you really want the front wheel dropping out ? Or the lugs snapping off those forks? Or worse .
Start by checking what size rotors those forks are rated at . A quick check of my fleet - the bikes with suicide forks have 160 mm rotors. Anything with 180 mm or higher has through axles and more than 34 mm stanchions. In fact, the 32 mm fox factory forks on my daughters trance are only rated to 180 mm - in their time, they were top of the range competition suspension, yet that bike manages with 160 mm rotors and is still capable of serious braking ( admittedly it only has 26" wheels , and weighs 12 kg)
I recently upgraded the brakes on my levo sl to 4 pot xt's , at the time I considered replacing the stock 200 mm rotors with something bigger, but even my uprated fox 36 forks were only capable of running 203 mm - that's serious braking force!
That rotor you are using is the same as my sons giant reign advanced - he has fox 38 mm forks that retail for $2000 .
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
Exactly why I’m my own bike mechanic. Well, that and I like to learn and work with my hands.Anti_seize is often a good idea even on threaded aluminum to aluminum. Prevents oxidation binding and makes disassembly much easier.
Sometimes it's like Franks Hot Sauce.... I put that sh*t on everything!
Glad you're all right.
I had a brake failure recently so I know well the scare it can give. Seems the "bike mechanic" didn't torque the compression nut at the rear lever properly and the seal blew out during an aggressive braking. But he did remember to slide the plastic boot over the compression nut to conceal his error
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
I concur... Sometimes things are out of your hands and you have no choice.Exactly why I’m my own bike mechanic. Well, that and I like to learn and work with my hands.
But as soon as they're in my hands... They stay there!
nah, he means get it stolen or pay to take it to the tip
Yeah, brake fade was one of the reason I upgraded the levo sl brakes.. The stock 4 pot srams would over heat and either fade or boil depending on when I last changed the fluid. Only when I was doing silly things - but that's exactly when you NEED reliable brakes.
I've moved to xt's with finned pads and a 203 mm rear disk, so far it's working well. I did contemplate a larger front rotor, but my fox 36 forks are only rated to 203 mm.
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
It wasn't the bolts that failed it was a hub that didn't have integral disc mount and a threaded adapter added..
The adapter mounting threads failed.
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
Dont forget a nice bubble bath and mallet treatment.
Yes... That how it is typically.
I didn't even know such an adapter thing existed.
Probably ok if done with a better quality part, possibly stainless steel on a non e light bike. Obviously not the case here...
This is a case of cutting corners to the extreme.
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
It's 43f here
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
I had my front bike bag cause the back brake line to crack and the shop discovered it when they were replacing the shifting housing. I didn't to see any performance drop but the lever was creeping inward and it leaked. our tandem we battle glazing on the pads. We have serious steep hills we have to keep the speed down. one thats 18% grade got to keep the speed under 25mph. and then short ones where maybe 10mph or less that are even steeper. it usually only causes noise but can really impact breaking effectiveness.
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