This is not good, and its my fault

fooferdoggie said:
I had my front bike bag cause the back brake line to crack and the shop discovered it when they were replacing the shifting housing. I didn't to see any reface drop but the lever was creeping inward and it leaked. our tandem we battle glazing on the pads. e have serious steep hills we have to keep the speed down. one thats 18% grade got to keep the sped under 25mph. and then short ones where maybe 10mph or less that are even steeper. it usually only causes noise but can really impact breaking effectiveness.
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Curious... are you using a phone or tablet to post on here?
 
A Mac! That IS worse. Apple has the most unuserfriendly devices. The phone is ok, but everything else is trash (after 3 years). PC4LIFE
 
fooferdoggie said:
worse my Mac. plus my ADHD messes with my communication skills. Facebook is not great at spellchecking and my Mac can really put strange words in.
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Might I suggest a tablet... Much more user friendly than other devices.
The Lenovo and Samsung +/- $250 units work quite well for the internet.
Sometimes I think you're really a disgruntle Chinaman always bashing them and speaking Chinglish 🙃
 
Gionnirocket said:
Might I suggest a tablet... Much more user friendly than other devices.
The Lenovo and Samsung +/- $250 units work quite well for the internet.
Sometimes I think you're really a disgruntle Chinaman always bashing them and speaking Chinglish 🙃
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nothing helps. my hands are not great so I mistype and then the ADHD keeps me from checking. Hell sometimes when I go back and read what I wrote I don't know what I was trying to say I have already forgotten what I was trying to say. so I try to get it out before my mind goes somewhere else.
 
fooferdoggie said:
nothing helps. my hands are not great so I mistype and then the ADHD keeps me from checking. Hell sometimes when I go back and read what I wrote I don't know what I was trying to say I have already forgotten what I was trying to say. so I try to get it out before my mind goes somewhere else.
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No worries... I can decipher it most of the time.
 
fooferdoggie said:
Mac has been going since 2017 I think my iPad as long.
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Long time (30 year) MAC user here. Apple TV, iPod, iPad, MAC books(plural) iWatch, iPhone, and I find them to be the most user friendly devices.
Prior to Apple I built a dozen desktop and towers. I got tired of fixing stuff and just went Apple.
 
PDoz said:
You've just had a lucky escape - If you're riding at a level where you needed 203 mm rotors, perhaps it's time to take a good look at those forks and hubs ?

Do you really want the front wheel dropping out ? Or the lugs snapping off those forks? Or worse .

Start by checking what size rotors those forks are rated at . A quick check of my fleet - the bikes with suicide forks have 160 mm rotors. Anything with 180 mm or higher has through axles and more than 34 mm stanchions. In fact, the 32 mm fox factory forks on my daughters trance are only rated to 180 mm - in their time, they were top of the range competition suspension, yet that bike manages with 160 mm rotors and is still capable of serious braking ( admittedly it only has 26" wheels , and weighs 12 kg)

I recently upgraded the brakes on my levo sl to 4 pot xt's , at the time I considered replacing the stock 200 mm rotors with something bigger, but even my uprated fox 36 forks were only capable of running 203 mm - that's serious braking force!

That rotor you are using is the same as my sons giant reign advanced - he has fox 38 mm forks that retail for $2000 .
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Yes, I've decided to.put smaller rotors on, the braking I's more than enough with the Guide brake I've fitted, and smaller rotors are stronger and less likely to be damaged.
 
tomjasz said:
Long time (30 year) MAC user here. Apple TV, iPod, iPad, MAC books(plural) iWatch, iPhone, and I find them to be the most user friendly devices.
Prior to Apple I built a dozen desktop and towers. I got tired of fixing stuff and just went Apple.
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And you don't own a Specialized?!?! 🙃
 
Chargeride said:
Yes, I've decided to.put smaller rotors on, the braking I's more than enough with the Guide brake I've fitted, and smaller rotors are stronger and less likely to be damaged.
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Maybe save the money and put it towards upgrading the hubs ( and forks) ?

BTW , when it's time to replace pads in the guide brakes, take the originals to the shop and be sure you know WHICH guide brakes you have. Some use code pads, overs use smaller ones that can be really hard to source. It's not fun to find that out at the top of a mountain when you go to fit the spare pads.....
 
PDoz said:
Maybe save the money and put it towards upgrading the hubs ( and forks) ?

BTW , when it's time to replace pads in the guide brakes, take the originals to the shop and be sure you know WHICH guide brakes you have. Some use code pads, overs use smaller ones that can be really hard to source. It's not fun to find that out at the top of a mountain when you go to fit the spare pads.....
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Yes, I got them off a friend and he had a box of spares, took us half an hour rooting about to get the exact pads.
 
Chargeride said:
20 quid, but the back one has been disconnected to pull it through the frame and he's lost the olive, oh and no bar brackets.
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I guess if he paid you 20 quid that's fair.

But now you've tweaked my curiosity - I wonder if he used those bar clamps on a shimano conversion so he could retain the sram shifter / dropper post connection ? It's too hot outside to go look in the shed and see if my old guide clamps fit the new xt's, I'll check tonight.
 
They were the originals on his specialised emtb,he upgraded, tbh I don't like the way the reservoir sticks forward so much, looks a bit weird and hanging out there to get bashed.
 
Chargeride said:
They were the originals on his specialised emtb,he upgraded, tbh I don't like the way the reservoir sticks forward so much, looks a bit weird and hanging out there to get bashed.
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Yes, they were stock on my specialized levo sl , which is why I know about replacing them / boiling brakes / max disc sizes for different forks etc etc.
 
PDoz said:
Yes, they were stock on my specialized levo sl , which is why I know about replacing them / boiling brakes / max disc sizes for different forks etc etc.
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Questions of curiosity, @PDoz:
1. How does it feel when the glycol based brake fluid starts boiling? What are the phenomena you are observing?
2. How do you actually stop the e-bike when that happens?
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Questions of curiosity, @PDoz:
1. How does it feel when the glycol based brake fluid starts boiling? What are the phenomena you are observing?
2. How do you actually stop the e-bike when that happens?
Click to expand...

When it boils, it happens suddenly - and you lose all braking. Usually you only lose one brake, so after a few minutes of terror you can plan B and stop with the other, or if conditions allow just keep riding with just 1 brake. Sometimes, when things cool down you have some braking left but it's like having air in the system - a spongy lever . Do it twice without a bleed and the lever comes into the bars .

Most of the time, we get brake fade before boiling - they progressively become more spongey and you get a chance to pull over / ride more conservatively to let things cool down before boiling the fluid. Unfortunately this can glaze the pads / discs so they're a bit less effective for a while .

On a recent trip we were hitting a trail with only 560 m descending, but it started with a 39 degree rocky trail for the first 100 m drop. By the end of that, my rear was getting a bit spongy and I SHOULD have stopped, but my son was just warming up and starting to jump off the rocks ....which is great fun to watch - so I'd keep riding but try not to touch the brakes. Do that for a day, and eventually the bike teaches you a lesson.

On one of those runs, my daughter was riding my lsl and boiled the rear , she kept going and started getting fade in the front . By the time they regrouped, she had lost her nerve so my son rode the lsl down whilst she rode his reign. With just a front brake he was still quicker than I can do that trail!
 
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