This is not good, and its my fault

I think I boiled my cheap brakes on a ride last year, exact same experience.
I was going to throw them away, but probably just new pads and a bleed.

It was a massive descent, they are four pot, but an unbranded make
 
I think I boiled my cheap brakes on a ride last year, exact same experience.
I was going to throw them away, but probably just new pads and a bleed.

It was a massive descent, they are four pot, but an unbranded make

Seriously, throw them away and start getting ready to throw your guides away if / when you upgrade the hub / forks. Big pads + heat shedding technology in a decent sized disk makes a huge difference
 
Thank you, PDoz! My all brakes are mineral oil but my brother has got a bike with SRAM (glycol). While he would be riding on the flat most of the year, he sometimes goes for high mountain rides, so I will make him aware of the phenomenon!
 
Thank you, PDoz! My all brakes are mineral oil but my brother has got a bike with SRAM (glycol). While he would be riding on the flat most of the year, he sometimes goes for high mountain rides, so I will make him aware of the phenomenon!

sram aren't at fault, it's just that the cheaper sram guides have relatively small pads so struggle to cool off
 
Seriously, throw them away and start getting ready to throw your guides away if / when you upgrade the hub / forks. Big pads + heat shedding technology in a decent sized disk makes a huge difference
I'm seeing these vented discs and simply thicker discs being pushed on YouTube, to be honest, I'll be fine with the guides, they are 10X better than anything I've had
 
This thread got me paranoid about my brake system. I just replaced the pads on my brakes rotors I think are okay. I can't find my dial caliper to gauge it.
I'm gunna order new set for my next brake tune up.
You sure it's this thread and not the vado?
 
No issues with braking today 😊

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Oh, no, wrong thread! 🤣
 
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My bike is fast I have to stop at some point. No shoes will stop it.
I have magura and China brake pads installed.
And I ride a lot of hills at +20mph.
Relax.. I guarantee your brakes are just as good as before this thread was posted.
 
on our tandem on long decent I am pretty careful chasing from back to to front and if possible having my wife use the v brake. but still over time this can cause some overheat and made a brake bleed necessary. but what causes the most issues are short really steep 18 to 20% grades where I have o keep the speed way down like below 20 and often 10 or less. I tried thicker pads but that was actually worse and caused a lot of glazing. so I had go back to Shimano ice-tech rotors. they seem to to handle the fast intense heat better we build up. but they tend to not be super flat when you buy them. they usually have that tick tick sound and I have to center the caliper on that high spot. the front I had to do it manually to get it quiet.
 
Riding back, I revisited that old braking backup from my youth, jam your foot under the stanchion and run your shoe on the tyre.
I might need to upgrade my shoes though.
When I got my first driver's license at age 16, the brakes went out on my parents' '41 Pontiac one block from the police station (where I took my driver's test--small town, of course). Many of the cars I drove in those days ('30 Model A Ford, for example), had lousy brakes. On the Ford, the brakes were strictly mechanical, and after many miles the linkages and bushings would wear to the point that a full pedal push would barely move the brakes shoes. Henry was the last one to go to hydraulic brakes. So I learned to shift down and use compression braking. My high school buddy had an "A" also. If he parked on a street with a slight slope, his car would lurch forward in pulses as the pistons slowly moved up an down. He carried a piece of firewood as a parking brake. Another reason why I am not crazy about automatic transmissions, as they don't provide enough compression braking effect.
 
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Seriously on brakes
I installed new race pads but I don't have the tool to align the caliper.
Now the rear brake is dragging wearing down my rotor. I will buy the tool if I know what it is called.
You shouldn't need a tool.
Loosen both caliper bolts just enough so that it can be moved.
Squeeze the lever until the pads make contact (not overly hard ).
You can use velcro or zip tie to hold it in place if you want but not necessary.
Tighten the bolts each a little at a time so as not to make the caliper move.
Release the lever... The caliper should be perfectly centered.
ps... No mallet necessary. 🙃
 
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