Swap Como 4.0 48T chainring with Vado 4.0 40T chainring

How strange, Marcela, isn't it? One might think the rings should be made of steel...
 
Besides, the original Specialized chainring has reached Poland. To be delivered at my door on Monday :)
 
Aluminium is flexible, so Al bike frames have to be thick (that negates the low density of the material that might make Al frames more lightweight). Aluminium is corrosion resistant, which is a good thing. But why make a chainring from aluminium? In 11/12 speed cassettes only the largest cog is made of aluminum because it is rarely used...
 
Cost and weight distribution : Plus the chainring in aluminum once bolted down to the exact Factory torque specs. Falls in line with the rear steel cassette . Which is technically Control central of the Drive Train. I suppose aluminum cassettes could work. But they would be more prone to flex . An advantage for the chain Ring a disadvantage for the cassette. I can't stress enough how IMPORTENT getting the Torque specs on the front chain Ring is.
Each Bolt as close as humanly possible. Makes all the difference in the world. A Steel chainring would not only add unneeded weight. It would fight the guiding control of the cassette. Rather then conforming like Aluminum . So less chance of the chain jumping the track . Like it did in the Old days .

I'm sure many guys remember crunching the crossbar in our youth because the chain came off . ;)
 
Sure. You don't need "Deckas" bolts. 6,5mm length should fit.

They are available in various colours, even in the fasterest red:

Is the length of the bolt the 'unique' part of them? If I had Wolftooth 6mm single ring bolts should they be suitable?
 
I agree with BarryS that rigidity in the cassette cogs would be one reason to use steel. I would think durability would be another. Low tooth count in the smaller cogs leads to early wear out, even with steel. Frequent shifting adds additional stress that steel teeth can handle better. Even hyper weight sensitive riders like serious road racers use steel cassettes for these reasons. I suspect the complicated machining for the wide-narrow chainring, the lack of any wear from shifting, and the large number of teeth engaged at any one time influenced the decision to use aluminum over a more durable material for the chain rings in 1x setups, IMHO. Steel rings do become more common in 2x and 3x setups, esp for smaller tooth counts.
 
Several good quotes found on the Internet:
" A big chainring made of steel would be heavier and the difference would be easily perceptible while holding the crankset in hand, so the crankset with the aluminum big chainring would make the best buy among the two."

"Aluminum typically has less resistance against friction wear than steel. For example, if you had to file down a bump in an aluminium piece, you would do it with low effort, compared to the similar job on even mild steel. Added to this is the fact that a new chain in a new chainring engages several teeth with full roller-tooth contact, effectively spreading the load among each contact point. The small chainring can provide less contact points to spread the load, with means that each tooth is subjected to a bigger fraction of the total force applied by the rider and multiplied by the crank. That means that a tooth in the small chainring bears a much greater load than a tooth in the big chainring." (This explains why smaller chainrings in 2x and 3x systems are made of CrMo steel).

"Mainly, due to "lever arm" issues, far more force is applied to the teeth of the smallest ring, and they need to be the strongest. This is exacerbated by the fact that the force is spread over fewer teeth."

'So, in order to withstand the increased torque, the smallest chainring is typically made of the stronger material, oftentimes steel."
 
Is the length of the bolt the 'unique' part of them? If I had Wolftooth 6mm single ring bolts should they be suitable?
The brand won't matter, except for quality. Wolftooth makes top of the line gear. The length for standard chain ring bolts varies depending on the application; 1x bolts being shorter than 2x bolts. Specialized does use a custom bolt setup for their 1x rings where the rings are threaded to receive the bolts eliminating the need for the standard 2 piece bolt and making service a bit easier.
 
So should I look for a 3ed party steel chainring for my upcoming swap on my Como, perhaps? Specialized only offers aluminum and they don't seem to have a 44t, just the 40 on the Vado or the 48 on my Como. Yhat seem like a big jump.
 
I bought The Praxis 48 T Ring for My Vado 4. When I first installed it . I just tightened the bolts snug. Not just hit and miss either. Everything seemed to work fine on the work stand . I took it for a short test without the battery . My first shift the chain jumped partly off . When I tightened the bolts all identical with a Torque wrench it worked perfectly . I didn't need to adjust anything else. My original attempt was very close. But It wasn't exact torque on each bolt . So apparently even at low end 9-11 NM of torque . Having Two bolts 1 NM off . Makes a Big difference to the operation of the Chainring .
 
In the right circumstances the aluminum rings and cassette should be good from my experiences. In the winter I ride a Norco Fatbike. Through the application of stupid amounts of money I have brought it down to 28.5lbs. Carbon Raceface crank, very expensive SRAM 11 speed cassette, Whisky/DT Swiss carbon wheels that I built, etc. In the snow you want to float over it like a butterfly hence my chasing lightweight parts. We usually get a lot of snow here. And my regular riding trails include lots of very steep climbs with lots of pedal pressure. I am happy to say that after about 1500kms of riding and one new chain replacement, the cassette (which is steel and aluminum) and the chainring, which is aluminum, thankfully show almost no signs of wear.
I do share a Levo carbon Expert and a Levo SL carbon Comp with a high-mileage friend. The Levo has the original steel chain ring that is still in great shape even if paint is somewhat worn, and the mid-grade cassette too is original and still in good shape. We replace the chain fairly regularly on the Levo which is why I think the drivetrain components are in good condition. The torque from the regular Levo motor I feel is so much more, and constant, that I wouldn't spend the money on high end cassette or chain ring. The Levo SL that we recently purchased will deserve high end upgrades when the old stuff wears out. It is so much lighter and with it's less torquey motor should be much easier on the upgrade alu. components. Maybe can get it under 38lbs.
 
Is the length of the bolt the 'unique' part of them? If I had Wolftooth 6mm single ring bolts should they be suitable?
I was referring to the offer I had linked: 6.5mm for single ring and 8.5mm for double ring.
So it's not "unique" and you could be fine with 6mm length.
 
So your pedals are looking for repainting to match that colour? 😼
I would be forced to replace the blue RaceFace pedals with black Stamp 7...
Garbaruk has a chainring in matching (?) blue colour which you could add to your collection. :cool: :
And you could keep your pedals. :) It even has longer teeth.
But better check with them whether it fits.
 
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