Stunner LT - Cant remove rear tire

Arcticgypsy

New Member
Bike: Stunner LT
Issue: Cannot seem to get the rear tire off to change a flat.

So hubby had a run in with a nail, and we have to change the rear tire. Seems like a simple thing. Followed several videos. No matter what we do, can't seem to get that thing to budge at all.

- unplugged the power to the hub
- loosened the bolts on both sides of the axle
- you'd think you should just have to pull back the Derailleur, and pop it out...but no. and no matter how much force there is no movement on either side.

Photos:
Can anyone see anything we might be missing?
 

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Chain looks messed up on the first picture. Always easier to work with rear wheel when the chain is on the smallest diameter gear. Give that chain and gears a good cleaning when you do get it apart! Sometimes the slots in the frame are snug because of thick paint or powder coating.
 
Chain looks messed up on the first picture. Always easier to work with rear wheel when the chain is on the smallest diameter gear. Give that chain and gears a good cleaning when you do get it apart! Sometimes the slots in the frame are snug because of thick paint or powder coating.
The chain has been pulled off. It's loose. Actually just moved it aside to get my phone in place to take photos. And yeah we usually give it a good clean when he's been on messy rides like that. Just trying to fix the problem at hand first.

So guessing we just got to give it more force. I know I have seen some videos where there was sort of a safety bolt locking things in place. I do see the 2 bolts under the axle on the Derailleur side, but guessing that's holding the Derailleur in place, and not a wheel lock of sorts. I feel like such a noob. Neither of us have been into biking for 20yrs or more, so have a lot to relearn.
 
The chain has been pulled off. It's loose. Actually just moved it aside to get my phone in place to take photos. And yeah we usually give it a good clean when he's been on messy rides like that. Just trying to fix the problem at hand first.

So guessing we just got to give it more force. I know I have seen some videos where there was sort of a safety bolt locking things in place. I do see the 2 bolts under the axle on the Derailleur side, but guessing that's holding the Derailleur in place, and not a wheel lock of sorts. I feel like such a noob. Neither of us have been into biking for 20yrs or more, so have a lot to relearn.
Use a flathead between the axle and the frame to slowly pull the motor off the frame..
 
So guessing we just got to give it more force.
Probably. The first time I took the rear wheel off of my Rad Rover it was really tough. I might have used a screwdriver more or less as a chisel and whacked it with a hammer a few times, down on that big washer in the forks. If you do that please be careful and use some common sense. Maybe put a block of wood over the axle bolt and hit that with a hammer.

Once I got my wheel out it went back in and out of the forks again without issue. I suspect the problem may have to do with the interval between wheel removal, so do what I say, not what I do, and remove the wheel every now and then whether you need to our not.

In addition to care and common sense, start softly and increase the force of the hammer blows gradually.

And when I say "down", I mean from the perspective of a right side up bike. I think your pictures have the bike inverted.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

TT
 
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Having never had normal strength in the arms, I frequently have to resort to the 29" channel-lock pliers. Looks like grainger doesn't have them. I saw them in stock at orscheln farm supply last fall.
 
Removing a wheel is trivial as with a regular non-ebike.

Experience is king here.

If you are having this much of an issue, my recommendation is to seek a Local Bike Shop.
Going to an LBS may be a good idea, but on a good day removing a rear wheel on an electric hub bike isn't quite as trivial as on an analog bike. There have been several reports on the forum of people having a hard time getting the wheel out of the forks, at least the first time. As stated, it's happened to me. You do everything you should, right up to the point that the wheel ought to lift (or fall) right out, but it doesn't. And it doesn't pull out with any normal amount of effort.

I've been taking wheels off bikes for over half a century and I know what removing a wheel is supposed to be like.

TT
 
Thanks for all the great responses. Suddenly I'm not feeling so stupid. It's going into the local bike shop tomorrow.

I was getting so frustrated with it. I know it's been a while since either of us have had to change a tire, but we never had this issue in the past. I'm guessing it has a lot to do with the fact these bikes are factory shipped with the rear wheel already in place. Betting there's paint and gunk holding it in place. Kind of like trying to open a window that's been painted shut.

We're both getting older, arthritis, chronic back pain, and just not equipped to deal with it on our own. Hopefully once it's done this 1st time, we'll be able to manage it on our own.
 
When I did my own conversion, the Huffy Savannah I had to open up the fork slot with an auto body grinder. To fit the shaft on the hub motor. Use safety glasses with power tools. A factory in a 2nd world country may just replace workers/serfs until they find one that can force the parts together.
In fact, after the bike shop changes the tire, you better check the work to see if you can get the wheel off. If gorilla man just forces it apart & back together again, you are left with a bike that you can't change a tube on the road. After removal the slot may need opening up to make it elder compatible. If you don't want to buy an auto body grinder, buy a flat file to open the slot a little. A nicholson, not that imitation trash they sell at Harbor Freight & copiers.
 
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You do everything you should, right up to the point that the wheel ought to lift (or fall) right out, but it doesn't. And it doesn't pull out with any normal amount of effort.
That's because bikes are made with rather soft metals, where frame bolts nuts anything can eat into each other. Experience tells you that it comes out exactly only one way, and it always does with safe and proper brute force.

I've seen bikes where inexperienced owners have used prybars and severely deformed frames, stays, chiseled open cassettes, whatever, and a visit to their LBS will save their bike from more self-damage.
 
I was going to try to explain how to do it but, this video explains it better than I could. the part about turning the axel with wrench is the most important thing. The torque of motor can cause the axel to bind in drop out.
That's a very good short video that probably totally explains stuck wheels on electric bikes with hub motors.

For what it's worth, I have never encountered this problem with an analog bike and it seems highly unlikely one ever would. Meaning there can be a significant difference in removing wheels from ebikes and non-ebikes.

TT
 
after the bike shop changes the tire, you better check the work to see if you can get the wheel off. If gorilla man just forces it apart & back together again, you are left with a bike that you can't change a tube on the road.
Good point. It's going in for a full tuneup and some miner part replacements later. (waiting on parts to come in...whenever that is!! ) If we find we can't take the wheel off on our own after today, we'll get them to do something to sort it out. The shop we deal with is pretty good.
 
W/o going into the obvious details such as unplugging the cables/chain in smallest cog/power OFF , this r the PRO TIPS:

U would put some wd-40 on each side and on outside/inside of the axle/frame junction, wait 10-15sec. , while holding with one hand on to the rear frame preferabbly the chain stays give the rear wheel a good LATERAL push either from left to right or right to left ; usually u'd PUSH IT LATERALLY it at the 12/3 or 9 o' clock position ; that will disloged it from the frame. Not it will be easy, just pull the wheel up if ebike is upside down.
I have yet to watch the vid, but is prob. A Similar tehnique.

Update: a bit amateurish the vid ! U always tilt the ebike upside down or put it on the stand. But since most of us don't use a bike stand just turn it upside down.

There is also a technique here in order to do it easily !

The wrench helps but most of the time it's the rear triangle or the seat stays/chain stays holding the rear wheel tightly.They r designed for that. When we give it a lateral push we r releasing that pressure and can xtract the wheel now.

If u just remove the rear wheel with the ebike standing , u'd have to leave it on it's side or worst leaving it standing on the rear derailleur , potentially damaging it .

In the vid, the guy is holding the ebike with 1 hand and the wheel with another . But in reality we need to protect our investment and actually place it in a secure position😉.

When it's upside down , remove the display or tilt it it's not removAble so that is totaly out of the way when the handlebar is inverted and place a small towel to protect the seat; that's all that's needed;
Now , on the road , for flat repair when ebike is upside down , the grips will get a little debris but that's easy to clean and u'd have the ebike in a proper position to work on. It's much easier to take the rear wheel out put it back in like that. Just do not press the rear brake while the wheel is off. That's a NO-NO.

A small can of wd-40 is a must to carry on for ebike repairs/flats while out and about.
And that's the Pro Tips for ebike rear wheel removing.
If i remember tmrw., i'll make the 60-90 seconds clip to illustrate what i've just said in the whole post.
 
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