The advantage of flat bar is hydros are cheap compared to drop bars brakes on account of all those zillions of Deore & XT equipped EMTBs and MTBs zooming around. Switching to drops is hideously expensive. Tektro, always reasonably priced, don't make any for drop bars (that I can see?) so you're left looking at something like 105 or GRX, great brakes but not cheap and then the gear ratios/pull are different so new derailleur needed. Or you can check out what ever gold plated hydros SRAM sells but same pull issues.
Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
RunForTheHills
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
A bigger issue with drop bars is the integrated shifters in the brake levers. I guess with electronic shifters/derailleur that problem goes away.
Last year, bored, I did try and work out the best (IE cheap) way to convert my Vado SL to drops. I didn't go through with it in the end, but it was more difference of geometry that made me hesitate, fearing I'd change my pretty comfortable riding position after all the expense. I seem to recall that as Tektro and Shimano are both mineral oil based there might be compatibility bewteen parts so was going to see if I kept the calipers and just bought new brifters (and derailleur) if that would work. Every step was complicated, like discovering that GRX rear mechs would not be compatible with my 11-46 (ten speed) cassette. Very annoying.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Sorry, not following how all of this applies to my flat bars.
If you have to chuck your rear caliper you have plenty of cheap replacements or upgrades available. It's not a big deal. Ebay is full of XT for instance.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
As I had a similar idea of the conversion a couple years ago -- now I am totally against making such a conversion -- I first discovered the handlebar remote couldn't be used on the drop bars...
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
To support the Ras' view on the difference between flat bar vs drop bar electronic drivetrain, let me just say the Wheeltop EDS for drop bars costs twice as much as the flat bar version (800 vs 400 bucks).
(Of course it is totally unrelated to the Jeremy's case).
(Of course it is totally unrelated to the Jeremy's case).
Kudos to your lbs for what would be extremely reasonable charge for the piston clean. No way that happens with any of the lbs around here. I would discount his magnetized steel piston theory tho. A wheel sensor magnet is not powerful enough to magnetize a piston that is so far way. I wouldn't prioritize an upgrade solely to get a non magnetic piston.
What I can see happening is that the magnet does attract a lot of metallic dust. Just took a pic of the sensor on my creo shown below. Get enough of that dust on the magnet and at high speed, wheel rotational centrifigal force will throw some of that dust off and some will find its way into the brakes.
Regardless of the wheel magnet, brake parts are open and constantly exposed to contamination. If the pistons/seals are indeed in good condition, it's likely that whatever conditions you are riding in contribute to the ongoing sticky piston issues you may be having.
Attachments
There are some tidy ways around this, but plenty of other headaches in the conversion. With Creo 1 second hand prices dropping all the time that's more what I'm thinking now.
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I'll give you retail price, because I don't pay retail. My Pinarello is set up just like your Specialized, with flat mount brakes front and rear. I wanted XTR levers, which meant switching to LV oil.
M9200 XTR XC levers $230
M9200 XTR post mount front caliper with metallic pads $170
TRP post mount adapter $16.00
BR-MT805 flat mount rear caliper with metallic pads $115.00
(2) BH90 hose kits $80
(2) RT-CL900 Dura-Ace 160mm rotors $200
Shimano 1L low viscosity oil $80, but you only would need 100ml-200ml if you're careful ($19 each or $55 for 500ml)
Total overkill, yes, but I wanted the XTR levers.
If I were you, I would go with GRX RX410 front and rear flat mount with your existing levers.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Not a divorce-level brake upgrade, but certainly good for a week on the sofa.
Thanks! Will definitely discuss that with my mechanic. I'm fine with the stock levers.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
What about the flat-mount Shimano GRX BR-RX820 gravel brakes with ceramic pistons and extra pad clearance? Still very affordable if all I need are the calipers.
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Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Ask the AI the following: "are tektro and shimano hydraulic lines the same"
If it only were that simple...
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
They're a bit more expensive. Both are in short supply from Shimano, with more stock due early next month.
You should be able to use your Tektro levers with the Shimano calipers if you use the smaller 5mm Shimano BH90 brake hose, barbs, and olives. Both use mineral oil. If you want to ensure 100% compatibility, the M8100 Deore XT (not the M8200) levers will work with either of those calipers, and were designed for the BH90 hose and fittings. They're about $65 each. This assumes that you have a clamp mount lever.
I suggest that you run this by your shop. See what they say. You certainly have had more than your share of issues with these brakes. Tektro/TRP make great products. I'm surprised that this has gone on this long.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Good point, but I think I'll ask my mechanic instead.Ask the AI the following: "are tektro and shimano hydraulic lines the same"
If it only were that simple...
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Excellent intel! Still affordable with those new levers. Will discuss all this with my mechanic today.
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Great. Let me know what he thinks.
BlackHand
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Western WA
I have the RX810's on my Bulls and they work well. The 820's appear to be largely the same basic design. Not sure they stop better/worse than the 4 piston Tektro's on my Haibike, but the pads are easy to change and the calipers easier to clean. Never needed to bleed them in 4k miles.
The Tektro's I bleed at least once a year and have to go in and work a sticky piston loose on the rear a couple times a year in 15k miles.
The Tektro's I bleed at least once a year and have to go in and work a sticky piston loose on the rear a couple times a year in 15k miles.
zbikeman
Member
- Region
- USA
After playing drop-the-wedge-in-the-seat-tube with my Sirrus X 5.0 (and now my Vado 4.0 SL) enough times, my workaround is to drop the bike on its side (on an old blanket to prevent scratching) whenever adjusting saddle height or changing saddles.
It's virtually impossible to drop the wedge down the seat tube this way. You almost have to be trying.
First time I did this, dropped on the floor with the bike and the missus asked, "What are you doing?" My answer: "Avoiding a lot of cussing."
It's virtually impossible to drop the wedge down the seat tube this way. You almost have to be trying.
First time I did this, dropped on the floor with the bike and the missus asked, "What are you doing?" My answer: "Avoiding a lot of cussing."
BioWheel
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Next time I pull the seatpost, I’m going to try using electrical tape -- just wrap it so only the screw head is exposed. That should do the trick. Last time I dropped the piece, I ended up taking off the wheels and chain, then flipping the frame over and shaking it out. There’s actually more space down by the motor than I expected, which surprised me.
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