Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Thanks! Gives me hope that an affordable upgrade might be possible.
The advantage of flat bar is hydros are cheap compared to drop bars brakes on account of all those zillions of Deore & XT equipped EMTBs and MTBs zooming around. Switching to drops is hideously expensive. Tektro, always reasonably priced, don't make any for drop bars (that I can see?) so you're left looking at something like 105 or GRX, great brakes but not cheap and then the gear ratios/pull are different so new derailleur needed. Or you can check out what ever gold plated hydros SRAM sells but same pull issues.
 
The advantage of flat bar is hydros are cheap compared to drop bars brakes on account of all those zillions of Deore & XT equipped EMTBs and MTBs zooming around. Switching to drops is hideously expensive. Tektro, always reasonably priced, don't make any for drop bars (that I can see?) so you're left looking at something like 105 or GRX, great brakes but not cheap and then the gear ratios/pull are different so new derailleur needed. Or you can check out what ever gold plated hydros SRAM sells but same pull issues.
A bigger issue with drop bars is the integrated shifters in the brake levers. I guess with electronic shifters/derailleur that problem goes away.
 
A bigger issue with drop bars is the integrated shifters in the brake levers. I guess with electronic shifters/derailleur that problem goes away.
Last year, bored, I did try and work out the best (IE cheap) way to convert my Vado SL to drops. I didn't go through with it in the end, but it was more difference of geometry that made me hesitate, fearing I'd change my pretty comfortable riding position after all the expense. I seem to recall that as Tektro and Shimano are both mineral oil based there might be compatibility bewteen parts so was going to see if I kept the calipers and just bought new brifters (and derailleur) if that would work. Every step was complicated, like discovering that GRX rear mechs would not be compatible with my 11-46 (ten speed) cassette. Very annoying.
 
The advantage of flat bar is hydros are cheap compared to drop bars brakes on account of all those zillions of Deore & XT equipped EMTBs and MTBs zooming around. Switching to drops is hideously expensive. Tektro, always reasonably priced, don't make any for drop bars (that I can see?) so you're left looking at something like 105 or GRX, great brakes but not cheap and then the gear ratios/pull are different so new derailleur needed. Or you can check out what ever gold plated hydros SRAM sells but same pull issues.
Sorry, not following how all of this applies to my flat bars.
 
Every step was complicated, like discovering that GRX rear mechs would not be compatible with my 11-46 (ten speed) cassette.
As I had a similar idea of the conversion a couple years ago -- now I am totally against making such a conversion -- I first discovered the handlebar remote couldn't be used on the drop bars...
 
To support the Ras' view on the difference between flat bar vs drop bar electronic drivetrain, let me just say the Wheeltop EDS for drop bars costs twice as much as the flat bar version (800 vs 400 bucks).
(Of course it is totally unrelated to the Jeremy's case).
 
As for the rear brake
No defective (or damaged) parts found, so no basis for a warranty claim with Tektro. The mechanic's seen one other SL 1 with the same recurring rear brake problem (one piston sticking against the rotor).

He's thinking now that the magnetic rear wheel sensor has magnetized one of the steel pistons, causing metallic brake dust to cake on it and eventually block its retraction. Our many steep hills, my tendency to favor the rear brake, and my frequent riding on sandy hard pack probably aren't helping.

He's working up some options for a middle-tier brake upgrade without steel pistons. The SL 1's combo of flat bars and flat rear caliper mount limits the possibilities.
Kudos to your lbs for what would be extremely reasonable charge for the piston clean. No way that happens with any of the lbs around here. I would discount his magnetized steel piston theory tho. A wheel sensor magnet is not powerful enough to magnetize a piston that is so far way. I wouldn't prioritize an upgrade solely to get a non magnetic piston.

What I can see happening is that the magnet does attract a lot of metallic dust. Just took a pic of the sensor on my creo shown below. Get enough of that dust on the magnet and at high speed, wheel rotational centrifigal force will throw some of that dust off and some will find its way into the brakes.

Regardless of the wheel magnet, brake parts are open and constantly exposed to contamination. If the pistons/seals are indeed in good condition, it's likely that whatever conditions you are riding in contribute to the ongoing sticky piston issues you may be having.
 

Attachments

  • creo magnet.jpg
    creo magnet.jpg
    203.3 KB · Views: 3
As I had a similar idea of the conversion a couple years ago -- now I am totally against making such a conversion -- I first discovered the handlebar remote couldn't be used on the drop bars...
There are some tidy ways around this, but plenty of other headaches in the conversion. With Creo 1 second hand prices dropping all the time that's more what I'm thinking now.
 
Back