Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

I'm jealous! The Microtune would be a perfect feature for myself on group rides. Depending on the conditions, my buddies can ride pretty fast or slower. The Microtune would allow me riding at exactly the same speed as they, which is not easy for me with the preset assistance levels.

Some users could handle that on older Turbo e-bikes using BLEvo and O-Sync remote: The point is O-Sync is not to be bought here nowadays.
another good reason to leave your phone mounted to the bars. a few taps in mission control ;)
 
another good reason to leave your phone mounted to the bars. a few taps in mission control ;)
How can you Tune your e-bike when you already are in the Let's Ride mode? Care to explain?

Secondly, having a smartphone on the bars does not quite agree with the gravel-cycling where you often ride as rough terrain as the singletrack.
 
I should have known… more money! I still haven’t gotten around to the Road Remotes yet, but they are certainly on the menu. I am finding I may not even need a range extender for the Creo… I ride it a lot of the time unassisted, and when riding at Eco and watching the pedal stroke, you can keep the drain way down. Big climb comes, all bets are off, but all things considered, with my usual rides being under 40 miles, I don’t think I need one.

We do have a 50 mile Tour de Cure coming up, but a friend sags us around that anyway, and we can always stop at a convenience store and plug into the car for a few quick electrons if things are getting low.
It all depends on how much assistance you request. On my way to and from work (12-13 miles each way), I have 50% left when I arrive at home, but there are long unassisted stretches on the flat area, I only use the motor (turbo) for the hills (up to 10% inclination and every time I realize that I'm getting old).

50 miles may be possible, depending on terrain.

To the chainring issue from a few pages back: I opted for the "original Specialized" 40T off the regular Vado. I like things to look close to "original". With the 40/45 gearing now, I can climb 10% hills "forever" at ~6.5 mph (in turbo). You can still pedal up to 30mph @80 rpm (maybe 35 before spinning out), which is good enough for me.

On a sidenote I managed ground contact with one of my pedals this week when I took a turn while pedaling (trying to be really sporty I guess) - that was scary for a second.
 
How can you Tune your e-bike when you already are in the Let's Ride mode? Care to explain?

Secondly, having a smartphone on the bars does not quite agree with the gravel-cycling where you often ride as rough terrain as the singletrack.

you can change the settings while in a ride; just tap the four squares at top left, go to settings, and change them. i’ve done it many times. they change immediately and when you go back to the “ride” tab the ride continues without interruption. you don’t need to stay on the “ride” screen during the ride.

perhaps our gravel is smoother, i’ve never had a problem with the phone on the bars in gravel riding. a second before and after this photo my phone was on the quad lock mount seen on the bars:

3F9648D8-6F7A-41EF-9191-065A1981645F.jpeg
 
The new SL 4 came in yesterday. Clearly I am a minimalist 😁

Changes and upgrades so far:

- Thudbuster ST seatpost
- WTB Koda saddle
- CrankBrothers Stamp 1 pedals
- 30 degree ShockStop stem
- Ergon grips
- Removed lights

I also have a set of 2" Schwalbe Almotions coming from Bike24. Range extenders are back ordered so I could only get the cables.

I'm not sure about the 30 degree stem but I can swap it for the 6 degree if I need to. I've only been on a couple of test rides around the block but it feels great so far. I will report back this week after I get some miles in.

IMG_3033.jpeg
 
The new SL 4 came in yesterday. Clearly I am a minimalist 😁

Changes and upgrades so far:

- Thudbuster ST seatpost
- WTB Koda saddle
- CrankBrothers Stamp 1 pedals
- 30 degree ShockStop stem
- Ergon grips
- Removed lights

I also have a set of 2" Schwalbe Almotions coming from Bike24. Range extenders are back ordered so I could only get the cables.

I'm not sure about the 30 degree stem but I can swap it for the 6 degree if I need to. I've only been on a couple of test rides around the block but it feels great so far. I will report back this week after I get some miles in.

View attachment 123272
Congrats. I look forward to hearing how your mods work out.
 
perhaps our gravel is smoother, i’ve never had a problem with the phone on the bars in gravel riding. a second before and after this photo my phone was on the quad lock mount seen on the bars:
Right from the start, I was never sure what the industry meant by "gravel bike" and why they seemed to be basically drop-bar road bikes with wider tires. You'd have to be a masochist to ride one of those on the unpaved roads around here, where most of the "gravel grinder" crowd ride full-suspension MTBs! We've generally referred to those roads as "dirt roads". There is gravel involved, but (especially at this time of year) there are also ruts, washouts, potholes, and long stretches of teeth-rattling washboard. Maybe elsewhere there is mile after mile of smooth gravel road -- almost like a crushed-limestone trail -- but that ain't around here. ;)
 
The new SL 4 came in yesterday. Clearly I am a minimalist 😁

Changes and upgrades so far:

- Thudbuster ST seatpost
- WTB Koda saddle
- CrankBrothers Stamp 1 pedals
- 30 degree ShockStop stem
- Ergon grips
- Removed lights

I also have a set of 2" Schwalbe Almotions coming from Bike24. Range extenders are back ordered so I could only get the cables.

I'm not sure about the 30 degree stem but I can swap it for the 6 degree if I need to. I've only been on a couple of test rides around the block but it feels great so far. I will report back this week after I get some miles in.

View attachment 123272

Beautiful bike! That picture surprised me though, as I hadn’t thought about how much 30* amounts to. I have a 6* stem on my Creo. Flipping it raised my handlebars a bit more than 1/2 inch if I recall correctly, which is also the amount I then raised my seat, so my legs are now properly extended when pedaling. I had dropped the seat a bit to save my neck….it’s funny how such a small adjustment can make such a big difference. Anyway, I’m going to ride with that for a while, and add 15mm of spacers (the Creo limit) if I want a slightly more upright position. I think I’m liking the current 6* positive position though. Maybe in a couple of years, or a couple of weeks, I’ll feel differently.
 
The new SL 4 came in yesterday. Clearly I am a minimalist 😁

Changes and upgrades so far:

- Thudbuster ST seatpost
- WTB Koda saddle
- CrankBrothers Stamp 1 pedals
- 30 degree ShockStop stem
- Ergon grips
- Removed lights

I also have a set of 2" Schwalbe Almotions coming from Bike24. Range extenders are back ordered so I could only get the cables.

I'm not sure about the 30 degree stem but I can swap it for the 6 degree if I need to. I've only been on a couple of test rides around the block but it feels great so far. I will report back this week after I get some miles in.

View attachment 123272
Very nice Dan! I'm test riding one later this week. I'm having a hard time deciding between the SL and the regular Vado. I just sold my Turbo Levo Comp and enjoyed the power. Looking forward to seeing how the SL motor feels on a lighter bike. Hoping it's enough for me.
 
Beautiful bike! That picture surprised me though, as I hadn’t thought about how much 30* amounts to. I have a 6* stem on my Creo. Flipping it raised my handlebars a bit more than 1/2 inch if I recall correctly, which is also the amount I then raised my seat, so my legs are now properly extended when pedaling. I had dropped the seat a bit to save my neck….it’s funny how such a small adjustment can make such a big difference. Anyway, I’m going to ride with that for a while, and add 15mm of spacers (the Creo limit) if I want a slightly more upright position. I think I’m liking the current 6* positive position though. Maybe in a couple of years, or a couple of weeks, I’ll feel differentlyI
I didn't like the 30-degree sticking almost straight up in the air so today I swapped it for a 6-degree. The 6 with the stock bars turned out to be a neck killer (I feel ya) so I changed to Deity 50mm riser bars I had from my Vado 5. I think this setup will work nicely.

@CodyDog I had the same concerns. The Vado and Vado SL are two completely different bikes. Too early for me to say too much but the difference in power is big. But so is the weight and the feel of the bike. I think it comes down to how you will use it.
 
I didn't like the 30-degree sticking almost straight up in the air so today I swapped it for a 6-degree. The 6 with the stock bars turned out to be a neck killer (I feel ya) so I changed to Deity 50mm riser bars I had from my Vado 5. I think this setup will work nicely.

@CodyDog I had the same concerns. The Vado and Vado SL are two completely different bikes. Too early for me to say too much but the difference in power is big. But so is the weight and the feel of the bike. I think it comes down to how you will use it.
Thats one of the things I'm trying to figure out....how I will use it. Exercise on the flats of Texas or very long rides with large climbs in Colorado. From the looks your post it appears you had a Vado 5.0. Do you still have it or did you change to the SL. If so, why did you change?
 
Right from the start, I was never sure what the industry meant by "gravel bike" and why they seemed to be basically drop-bar road bikes with wider tires. You'd have to be a masochist to ride one of those on the unpaved roads around here, where most of the "gravel grinder" crowd ride full-suspension MTBs! We've generally referred to those roads as "dirt roads". There is gravel involved, but (especially at this time of year) there are also ruts, washouts, potholes, and long stretches of teeth-rattling washboard. Maybe elsewhere there is mile after mile of smooth gravel road -- almost like a crushed-limestone trail -- but that ain't around here. ;)
Gravel-cycling is for adventurous types. And no, it is not just a road bike with wider tyres. Gravel-cycling is about:
  • Riding far (Double Metric Centuries are common, not even mentioning Ultra Marathons)
  • Riding fast (21 mph on the pavement, and 15 mph in rough terrain is typical)
  • Riding in groups but not in the peloton
  • Mixed terrain, and what you described perfectly fits what gravel cyclists ride here, plus the forest. Plus the sand.
Gravel bike:
  • Is to be lightweight, so it can be easily carried over obstacles, or over a long stretch of mud
  • The geometry is relaxed, and the drop handlebars are flared for better handling in rough terrain
  • The drivetrain is a hybrid between road and mountain bikes to make it easier to move in rough terrain, and to be invulnerable to, say, twigs met on the trail
  • Wider, supple tyres, typically in tubeless setup, at low inflation pressure to improve the traction and to make the ride smoother
  • Many attachment points for water bottles, tools, and bags (racks/panniers are allowed).
A lightweight bike is far less shaky than a heavier one. "A masochist"? The guy who attracted me to that kind of adventure riding often says: "Gravel bikes give us freedom and fun!" You cannot ride that fast on the pavement with an MTB, and an e-MTB is too heavy for that kind of sport! I know it since I rode a metric century with gravel cyclists on a Trance E+ 2 Pro...

Having said the above: a Creo EVO is an adequate gravel e-bike. A well customized Vado SL can do for that kind of rides within the Metric Century realm.
1652767396515.png

A typical gravel cycling group ride in Poland. Far above my station! Nine hours in the saddle!

Too early for me to say too much but the difference in power is big. But so is the weight and the feel of the bike. I think it comes down to how you will use it.
Precisely! For instance, I'm glad I took my full power Vado for the last weekend long trip. I would have had a hard time to pedal 100 km against a strong headwind on Vado SL on last Sunday... On the other hand, I shudder to think I would need to ride into the forest on my heavy Vado (it can only be ridden very slowly there); it has to be the Vado SL!
 
Thats one of the things I'm trying to figure out....how I will use it. Exercise on the flats of Texas or very long rides with large climbs in Colorado. From the looks your post it appears you had a Vado 5.0. Do you still have it or did you change to the SL. If so, why did you change?
Why did you sell the Levo? I also have a Haibike FullSeven 9.0 full-suspension eMTB that I bought just as the lockdown began, so I had that and the Vado at the same time. I put 2.8" Smart Sams on the Haibike which have a center bead that works well on the street, and also added a BikeSpeed RS to remove the speed limiter. I found that whether I was riding dirt or street I was choosing the Haibike every time, so I eventually sold the Vado. Fast forward a couple of years and I realize that the FullSeven is just not cut out for high mileage street riding. It's a big, burly beast.

The two bike solution works best for me. I have a 25,000 acre preserve to ride in so I won't give up the eMTB. I will also use it for street on very windy days as the SL does not have enough power (for me) for big wind.

If I had to choose only one bike it would be a hard-tail eMTB like the Turbo Terro. To me that is the best all-around bike since I need a dirt solution. The SL would not stand a chance against the terrain I ride in.

@Stefan Mikes can tell you about big climbs, for which I believe he chooses his regular Vado. You might need a couple extra range extenders for that.
 
Last edited:
A very good post, Dan! Indeed, a two e-bike solution is the best.

Regarding big climbs: There is certain power amount to be delivered to the cranks (legs + motor) to be able to climb a hill of a given grade at the speed that lets the rider maintaining the momentum. If the rider's legs and the e-bike motor are powerful enough together, there is some gearing necessary to be able to rotate the cranks. A powerful motor is necessary to do really steep climbs. (@mschwett often refers to this matter, and he is fit enough to climb reasonable hills either with the SL motor of his Creo or even unpowered on the most lightweight road bike available). The rest of us need a powerful motor and a mountain-grade gearing. (I was capable to climb a 10% grade short ascent on my Vado SL with difficulty).

Climbing is battery intensive, although it is possible to save a lot of battery charge by coasting on descents. My most adventurous mountain ride was 77.7 miles with 5,060 ft of elevation gain. It had to be my full power Vado with 38-46T mountain gearing, and I used as much as 981 Wh from two batteries. I would not manage that on the Vado SL regardless the number of Range Extenders. Not with my legs.

I agree with Dan that a Tero (in my case 5.0 EQ) could be an all-rounder, and my needs would involve buying a spare battery if only available... Still, owning two so different e-bikes such as Vado and Vado SL is just fantastic! (I cannot fancy carrying a big Vado -- or Tero -- upstairs where I live).
 
Back