Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

(27ish mm instead of the 31ish mm).
Pardon me? Are we talking about the stem or seat-post? Because the handlebars clamp size for ShockStop stem is 31.8 mm for the handlebars size used with Vado SL. 1-1/8"(28.6 mm) is the proper standard size for the steering tube (A-HEAD standard). Perhaps you are confusing these two diameters?

Because the only differences are:
  • Road bike needs a 25.4 -> 31.8 mm shim for the handlebars clamp.
  • Advanced modern MTB come with 35 mm handlebar clamp diameter.
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(27.2 and 30.9 mm are diameters of the seat-post).
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Before the inflation (June 2021), Specialized Warsaw claimed the cost of the carbon fork with FutureShock 1.5 as some 700 €. Bear in mind Vado SL 5.0 has also more expensive drivetrain and brakes.
 
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So I only need the standard version of the stem (1-1/8")?
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That would work for you. I was advised by Redshift to take the long 120 mm stem as it had the maximum suspension action. The choice of the stem length is of course yours. I actually chose the 100 mm one as it made me sure I would have enough of cable slack. (I know Vado SL has a lot of cable slack but I was really unsure at the time of the purchase).

A lot of information here
 

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It's 4cm more than the original stem on the Vado SL. How does that affect posture? Negligeable?
Thanks a lot Stefan. I'm pissed at myself as I dismissed a lot of very good deals over the last
months...
 
It's 4cm more than the original stem on the Vado SL. How does that affect posture? Negligeable?
Oh no! It affects the riding position very much! Let me tell you my own experience.

I'm 173 cm tall but have short legs with my own "standover height" of 78 cm, and I have relatively long arms. I had to buy Vado SL size M for the top tube standover height but always felt my Vado to be too small otherwise. Initially, I had to ride in a really upright position, which was making headwind slow me down dramatically. Moreover, the most of my body weight was resting on the saddle, making my butt hurt.

I chose the 100 mm RS ShockStop (which is 2 cm longer than the stock stem), and that improved my riding position (now, I regret I didn't choose the 120 mm stem...) I felt better on my rides in a more sporty position, so I started experimenting...
  • Moved the handlebars as low as possible with existing steerer tube and spacers...
  • Slammed the ShockStop Stem to -6 degrees (it required relocating the elastomers)
  • Added SQlab Innerbarends...
  • Found out I needed more firm elastomers for the ShockStop (as more of my weight rested on the bars). Restored the original set of elastomers (as it were the drop bars).
All those actions made me ride in a sporty position, with my back slowly bent, the body weight shifted off the saddle. All my aches were gone, and I got more aero!

It is absolutely your choice related to the stem length. You have my word the 100 mm one works perfectly!

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After all customisations.

I'm pissed at myself as I dismissed a lot of very good deals over the last
months...
Just think of me not buying a Vado SL for a long time as I wrongly determined from the specs that e-bike would be too tall for me... :D
 
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem? I'm really a noob in terms of position and frame geometry (and a lot of other stuff haha).
 
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem? I'm really a noob in terms of position and frame geometry (and a lot of other stuff haha).
No, that wouldn't be a good idea.

Proper seat height should be set based on your leg length - so that you're neither extending your legs too much nor too little. Saddle fore/aft and angle are also adjusted based upon your legs and hips. In some case you may find crank length needs to also be changed.

Only then, once the bike is set for your lower body, do you look at adjusting stem and handlebars to accommodate your upper body.

 
I'm 173cm too but I got a L sized Vado.
My demo Vado SL (see my avatar) was L and I could well ride it but the M was just waiting to be sold! :) Not a bad choice as for my shorter legs!

I like the prospect of having a more aero position.
That's good!

Is the -6 position only for aero sakes?
The more an aero position is just a bonus. While riding at the default configuration, I suffered:
  • Sore butt
  • Aches in lower back, shoulders, and the neck
  • Numb hands
  • Dizziness
As I was experimenting with lowering the handlebars, I could notice my pains were gradually relieved. An EBR Forum user told me about "slamming" the stem, and I did it to lower the bars even more. Of course I had to relocate the elastomer(s) in the internal chambers of the ShockStop stem. Eventually I added Innerbarends to get the flat handlebar equivalent of a gravel e-bike.

1679073877380.png

Notice the handlebars being located lower than the saddle now.

I could bet the 80 mm ShockStop would work well, too. Perhaps you could try with that if you find a bargain?
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem?
You mean moving the saddle forward? Not the best idea!

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P.S. I'm just back from a 65 km ride including a lot of forest. Guess what? No pain, no ache! :)
 
An EBR Forum user told me about "slamming" the stem, and I did it to lower the bars even more. Of course I had to relocate the elastomer(s) in the internal chambers of the ShockStop stem. Eventually I added Innerbarends to get the flat handlebar equivalent of a gravel e-bike.
What do you mean by slamming?
Thank you guys, really helpful insights and tips. I'll fool around with the handlebar level once I'll get a redshift stem :)
 
What do you mean by slamming?
Rotating from +6 do -6 degrees. It's a road cycling term.
Some info for you: On Friday and on Saturday I rode two different e-bikes via almost the same route that involved forest ride. You would be surprised:
Vado SL with Redshift handled much better and felt far more comfortable than Vado 6.0 with a 45 mm travel suspension fork! (Vado is a heavy e-bike, and it was one of the reasons, still...)
 
Just got the Vado Turbo sl 4.0.
I need to adjust the thumb control on the handlebar. I moved the grips a little skyward so I need to rotate controller downwards.
Any way to do this?
 
Just got the Vado Turbo sl 4.0.
I need to adjust the thumb control on the handlebar. I moved the grips a little skyward so I need to rotate controller downwards.
Any way to do this?
You need a small Torx screwdriver for that. T8 or T10 (I cannot remember which one)
 
New mad looking Sirrus - hint for the next gen Vado SL/Creo?!
Weird! Bigger vertical deflection? Maybe fine but wouldn't it create "pedal bob"? Greater horizontal deflection? But that's what should be avoided. Also... I can see these new frames breaking after many thousand of vibration cycles. Wondering if Specialized made any fatigue tests on that frame...
 
I rode a Sirrus for 5 years before myTurbo Vado SL 4.0. After 2.5 years still love the SL but I just got back from a test drive of the new Sirrus X5.0 in a medium frame. Can’t get over how lightweight it is. If it wasn’t for the 20mph head wind I might have been tempted to switch back to the Sirrus.
 
I rode a Sirrus for 5 years before myTurbo Vado SL 4.0. After 2.5 years still love the SL but I just got back from a test drive of the new Sirrus X5.0 in a medium frame. Can’t get over how lightweight it is. If it wasn’t for the 20mph head wind I might have been tempted to switch back to the Sirrus.
Was that already the Sirrus X with the new strange frame?
 
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