Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

As anyone ever thought about changing the fork on their Vado SL, especially to put a suspended one (to gain polyvalence)? I asked about the idea at my LBS, and they told me it could be doable, though with a limit of around 5cm in travel to keep the bike "balanced" (if that makes sense) . A lockable one seems ideal to keep as much performance as possible on the road. Any insights will be more than welcome. As I don't have the money to get a brand new fork, I'd like to first find some adequate models, and then hunt on the secondary market to find an affordable one.
I know a lot of you have installed a redshift shockstop stem on your bikes. For gravel/gravel+ trips, is it enough? The travel seems a bit limited to enjoy a wider spectrum of terrains, even though after reading your comments, this thing really seems to smooth out the road. But what I'm looking for is probably above that in terms of technicality of terrain. Would a combo suspension stem + tubeless wheels (allowing a bit more of low pression) be enough to give similar performances as a suspended fork?
Of course, the Vado won't and can't become a mountain bike, and I'm not expecting to be able to do crazy things with it. I just like and aspire to be able to follow as much paths as I encounter without telling me "don't, you'll damage your bike".
Thanks in advance as usual :)
 
Löhmraagondein said:
For gravel/gravel+ trips, is it enough?
Click to expand...
1678959302087.png

It is more than enough. From the ride comfort viewpoint, Redshift feels like a good suspension. 20 mm of suspension at the stem is as good as 50-60 mm travel of the suspension fork.

What would be the reason to make your lightweight e-bike heavy by adding the suspension fork? Why should you spoil the geometry of Vado SL? It is not without reason Specialized installed the FutureShock and a carbon fork for SL 5.0. Besides, Specialized would gladly provide the FutureShock and the carbon fork for you, only it is very expensive.

1678960023370.png

Did I say the Redshift ShockStop was more than enough for rides like that one? :) (Almost no gravel bike has any suspension!)

1678960261379.png

Appreciate the light weight! Good gravel tyres such as Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss do help, too.

1678960352265.png

:)
 
How much do you think the fork and future shock system cost? Couldn't find any price on Specialized website. I guess that if the difference between the 4.0 and 5.0 is around 1000€, it's something close to that.
Again, I just want to expand the capabilities. But of course, there are various dimensions to take into account. Hence why I ask questions before deciding a path. I've been lurking to find a second hand redshift stem, but they're usually not the right girth (27ish mm instead of the 31ish mm). I may end up buying a brand new if this path is the most cost effective one. Thanks for your insight :)
Edit: I fucking love the pathfinders. They amazed me in snow, mud, dirt, gravel.
 
Löhmraagondein said:
(27ish mm instead of the 31ish mm).
Click to expand...
Pardon me? Are we talking about the stem or seat-post? Because the handlebars clamp size for ShockStop stem is 31.8 mm for the handlebars size used with Vado SL. 1-1/8"(28.6 mm) is the proper standard size for the steering tube (A-HEAD standard). Perhaps you are confusing these two diameters?

Because the only differences are:
  • Road bike needs a 25.4 -> 31.8 mm shim for the handlebars clamp.
  • Advanced modern MTB come with 35 mm handlebar clamp diameter.
1679003398171.png

(27.2 and 30.9 mm are diameters of the seat-post).
-------------

Before the inflation (June 2021), Specialized Warsaw claimed the cost of the carbon fork with FutureShock 1.5 as some 700 €. Bear in mind Vado SL 5.0 has also more expensive drivetrain and brakes.
 
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Löhmraagondein said:
So I only need the standard version of the stem (1-1/8")?
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1679038830953-png.149441

That would work for you. I was advised by Redshift to take the long 120 mm stem as it had the maximum suspension action. The choice of the stem length is of course yours. I actually chose the 100 mm one as it made me sure I would have enough of cable slack. (I know Vado SL has a lot of cable slack but I was really unsure at the time of the purchase).

A lot of information here
 

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It's 4cm more than the original stem on the Vado SL. How does that affect posture? Negligeable?
Thanks a lot Stefan. I'm pissed at myself as I dismissed a lot of very good deals over the last
months...
 
Löhmraagondein said:
It's 4cm more than the original stem on the Vado SL. How does that affect posture? Negligeable?
Click to expand...
Oh no! It affects the riding position very much! Let me tell you my own experience.

I'm 173 cm tall but have short legs with my own "standover height" of 78 cm, and I have relatively long arms. I had to buy Vado SL size M for the top tube standover height but always felt my Vado to be too small otherwise. Initially, I had to ride in a really upright position, which was making headwind slow me down dramatically. Moreover, the most of my body weight was resting on the saddle, making my butt hurt.

I chose the 100 mm RS ShockStop (which is 2 cm longer than the stock stem), and that improved my riding position (now, I regret I didn't choose the 120 mm stem...) I felt better on my rides in a more sporty position, so I started experimenting...
  • Moved the handlebars as low as possible with existing steerer tube and spacers...
  • Slammed the ShockStop Stem to -6 degrees (it required relocating the elastomers)
  • Added SQlab Innerbarends...
  • Found out I needed more firm elastomers for the ShockStop (as more of my weight rested on the bars). Restored the original set of elastomers (as it were the drop bars).
All those actions made me ride in a sporty position, with my back slowly bent, the body weight shifted off the saddle. All my aches were gone, and I got more aero!

It is absolutely your choice related to the stem length. You have my word the 100 mm one works perfectly!

1679041146266.png

After all customisations.

Löhmraagondein said:
I'm pissed at myself as I dismissed a lot of very good deals over the last
months...
Click to expand...
Just think of me not buying a Vado SL for a long time as I wrongly determined from the specs that e-bike would be too tall for me... :D
 
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem? I'm really a noob in terms of position and frame geometry (and a lot of other stuff haha).
 
Löhmraagondein said:
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem? I'm really a noob in terms of position and frame geometry (and a lot of other stuff haha).
Click to expand...
No, that wouldn't be a good idea.

Proper seat height should be set based on your leg length - so that you're neither extending your legs too much nor too little. Saddle fore/aft and angle are also adjusted based upon your legs and hips. In some case you may find crank length needs to also be changed.

Only then, once the bike is set for your lower body, do you look at adjusting stem and handlebars to accommodate your upper body.

www.bikeradar.com

How to set the saddle height on your bike

Complete guide to accurately setting your bike seat height, as well as fore/aft and tilt
www.bikeradar.com www.bikeradar.com
 
Löhmraagondein said:
I'm 173cm too but I got a L sized Vado.
Click to expand...
My demo Vado SL (see my avatar) was L and I could well ride it but the M was just waiting to be sold! :) Not a bad choice as for my shorter legs!

Löhmraagondein said:
I like the prospect of having a more aero position.
Click to expand...
That's good!

Löhmraagondein said:
Is the -6 position only for aero sakes?
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The more an aero position is just a bonus. While riding at the default configuration, I suffered:
  • Sore butt
  • Aches in lower back, shoulders, and the neck
  • Numb hands
  • Dizziness
As I was experimenting with lowering the handlebars, I could notice my pains were gradually relieved. An EBR Forum user told me about "slamming" the stem, and I did it to lower the bars even more. Of course I had to relocate the elastomer(s) in the internal chambers of the ShockStop stem. Eventually I added Innerbarends to get the flat handlebar equivalent of a gravel e-bike.

1679073877380.png

Notice the handlebars being located lower than the saddle now.

I could bet the 80 mm ShockStop would work well, too. Perhaps you could try with that if you find a bargain?
Löhmraagondein said:
Could the saddle position on the seat post be enough to compensate an potentially too long stem?
Click to expand...
You mean moving the saddle forward? Not the best idea!

1679074146319.png

P.S. I'm just back from a 65 km ride including a lot of forest. Guess what? No pain, no ache! :)
 
Stefan Mikes said:
An EBR Forum user told me about "slamming" the stem, and I did it to lower the bars even more. Of course I had to relocate the elastomer(s) in the internal chambers of the ShockStop stem. Eventually I added Innerbarends to get the flat handlebar equivalent of a gravel e-bike.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by slamming?
Thank you guys, really helpful insights and tips. I'll fool around with the handlebar level once I'll get a redshift stem :)
 
Löhmraagondein said:
What do you mean by slamming?
Click to expand...
Rotating from +6 do -6 degrees. It's a road cycling term.
Some info for you: On Friday and on Saturday I rode two different e-bikes via almost the same route that involved forest ride. You would be surprised:
Vado SL with Redshift handled much better and felt far more comfortable than Vado 6.0 with a 45 mm travel suspension fork! (Vado is a heavy e-bike, and it was one of the reasons, still...)
 
Just got the Vado Turbo sl 4.0.
I need to adjust the thumb control on the handlebar. I moved the grips a little skyward so I need to rotate controller downwards.
Any way to do this?
 
Tigerfan1234 said:
Just got the Vado Turbo sl 4.0.
I need to adjust the thumb control on the handlebar. I moved the grips a little skyward so I need to rotate controller downwards.
Any way to do this?
Click to expand...
You need a small Torx screwdriver for that. T8 or T10 (I cannot remember which one)
 
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