Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Stefan Mikes]

@Stefan Mikes I just did a bunch of searching of this thread regarding an alternative mount for the 5.0 Lezyne headlight if the stem is changed, and there were so many posts with back-and-forth etc that I was not sure if a final solution was reached. From what I gather, the solution is to use a GoPro mount, but was there any particular one that was determined to work well if I decide to change my stem? What are you using on your SL (with photo please)?

It is difficult to find exactly the same as mine (mine is selectively imported to a single large online store in Poland) but this one will get you a drift what is necessary:
Garmin/GoPro OutFront Handlebar Mount
The one I have shown meets these criteria:

• Outfront mount (going past the cables)
• Good for 31.8 mm diameter handlebars (installed next to the stem)
• Aluminium
• The GoPro mount allows installing Lezyne headlight upside down (that's mandatory!)
• Additional benefit is the Garmin mount (and I think you own a Garmin).

Doug, taken into account your Vado SL is a perfect e-bike already: why would you like to replace the stem?

Stefan, I will probably never ride as much in a week as you do in a day! And about the Futureshock, it's too early to tell and I also don't have anything to compare it with since I never rode with the the 4.0-style fork. It seemed to be a bit stiffer than I had envisioned, but I have the options of going with the softer spring (or no spring from what I've heard). I first have to try it out on varied surfaces and of course am just starting to get back out onto the roads at all. Maybe I'll take a ride on my Crosstrail to refresh my memory of what that feels like since it's always been satisfactory. I'm definitely hoping for am improvement over the Vado 4.0 which to me rode like it had a solid fork.

I can only tell you an unsuspended Vado SL feels dramatically rigid and shaky If riding on a cracked asphalt makes you feel good then the FutureShock is a good thing! (I thing you are just riding on the internal spring and I wonder whether the technician can decrease the spring preload; perhaps it is doable).

 

[rochrunner]

@Stefan Mikes Thanks. I had found something similar by K-Edge, but a lot more expensive. There is a drawback I can see with this type of mount but it might be the best that's currently available.

On the stem issue, bike fit is a very personal thing and the same setup will never work for all people. On my Crosstrail I installed an aftermarket adjustable stem to raise the bars and inch or so for comfort, and my initial ride on the SL make me think that I might have to do this on the new bike as well. I've already used an online stem calculator to experiment with several options and have found one that I might try, but only after some more rides and a more direct comparison of the seat-to-bar relationship for reach and height.

The FutureShock comes with the medium stiffness helper spring installed, and a light and heavy spring are included in the box. Apparently it's also possible to leave the removable spring out altogether for an "extra light" spring. I'll let this go until after I've resolved the stem issue since the static load on the bars affects the spring selection, and the bar position determines the load.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@Stefan Mikes Thanks. I had found something similar by K-Edge, but a lot more expensive. There is a drawback I can see with this type of mount but it might be the best that's currently available.

On the stem issue, bike fit is a very personal thing and the same setup will never work for all people. On my Crosstrail I installed an aftermarket adjustable stem to raise the bars and inch or so for comfort, and my initial ride on the SL make me think that I might have to do this on the new bike as well. I've already used an online stem calculator to experiment with several options and have found one that I might try, but only after some more rides and a more direct comparison of the seat-to-bar relationship for reach and height.

The FutureShock comes with the medium stiffness helper spring installed, and a light and heavy spring are included in the box. Apparently it's also possible to leave the removable spring out altogether for an "extra light" spring. I'll let this go until after I've resolved the stem issue since the static load on the bars affects the spring selection, and the bar position determines the load.

Neck issues, eh? Funny to think I found the best handlebar position for me as "as low as possible" Butt, lower back, shoulders, neck: all the aches have gone! Additionally, I have found riding in SQlab Innerbarends made my rides even more comfortable!

 

[rochrunner]

Neck issues, eh? Funny to think I found the best handlebar position for me as "as low as possible" Butt, lower back, shoulders, neck: all the aches have gone! Additionally, I have found riding in SQlab Innerbarends made my rides even more comfortable!

Thank you, Dr. Mikes, for being able to diagnose me without ever having laid eyes on me. Perhaps you might write a book.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thank you, Dr. Mikes, for being able to diagnose me without ever having laid eyes on me. Perhaps you might write a book.

I listen to what the patients say

 

[rochrunner]

FWIW, I just did some comparative measurements on the bikes in question and have determined that I don't need to change the stem -- it's OK on height. That's good because with the light mount, etc., there was no clean solution. But I will need to get a different seat (which I was planning on trying anyway). I need to shift the seat forwards, and it's not possible because of the combination of the setback of the Redshift post, the design of the clamp, and the limited length of the rails on the seat that I'm using. I can most easily solve this by installing a seat with longer seat rails and will do that in the near future.

 

[Nubnub]

The FutureShock comes with the medium stiffness helper spring installed, and a light and heavy spring are included in the box. Apparently it's also possible to leave the removable spring out altogether for an "extra light" spring. I'll let this go until after I've resolved the stem issue since the static load on the bars affects the spring selection, and the bar position determines the load.

I assume the helper springs are placed in series with the fixed spring. If that is the case then wouldn't no helper spring be the stiffest?

 

[rochrunner]

I assume the helper springs are placed in series with the fixed spring. If that is the case then wouldn't no helper spring be the stiffest?

It's not actually "in series" -- take a look at the disassembly instructions. Definitely referred to as a "Booster" spring in the videos.

 

[TYJ]

Sport or Pro?
The difference between these two models is fundamental. Major difference is made by the Gripton compound used in the Pros.


Good for the non-EQ, would not fit the EQ. Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 are readily available where I live. The 42-622 size is unobtainium as these PF P 2B are the Holy Grail of gravel cyclists. Tubeless-ready, fast rolling, excellent grip and hard to puncture.

I had a set of Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 installed today. On my initial ride I was very impressed. Quiet, comfortable, steady, and noticeably lighter than the Nimbus that came with my bike. Stefan, thank you for your recommendation!

 

[fatshark]

For a fit and strong rider, yes. Not for me and my bad legs. There is a 10% short hill in my larger neighbourhood, and I struggle over there. On the other hand, the user such @Rás Cnoic has replaced the chain-ring in his Vado SL with a 38T one, and is reportedly zooming over British hills

I'm also in the process of swapping the stock chainring for a 38T one, largely so I can use the middle of the block rather than only the cogs on the left. After a chat with @Rás Cnoic I purchased the Raceface 38T ring and fitted it. The chain is now too long ... I can't remember the last time I ever shortened a chain (but am pretty sure I've still got a link splitter somewhere).

Anything I should be aware of? Is there any guidance of how much to remove, or is it trial and error? By my reckoning the circumference of the chainring is 12.6 cm shorter. I've had a quick look at Park's chain size guidance (and am not sure I understand it!). I think Park suggests running the chain over the chainring and the largest rear cog (excluding the derailleur) and then adding four links. Park's video is helpful.

Finally, is the chain shortening reversible?

Looking forward to zooming over Scottish hills

With thanks.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

I'm also in the process of swapping the stock chainring for a 38T one, largely so I can use the middle of the block rather than only the cogs on the left. After a chat with @Rás Cnoic I purchased the Raceface 38T ring and fitted it. The chain is now too long ... I can't remember the last time I ever shortened a chain (but am pretty sure I've still got a link splitter somewhere).

View attachment 121530

Anything I should be aware of? Is there any guidance of how much to remove, or is it trial and error? By my reckoning the circumference of the chainring is 12.6 cm shorter. I've had a quick look at Park's chain size guidance (and am not sure I understand it!). I think Park suggests running the chain over the chainring and the largest rear cog (excluding the derailleur) and then adding four links. Park's video is helpful.

Finally, is the chain shortening reversible?

Looking forward to zooming over Scottish hills

With thanks.

Ah ok so that's interesting - on my SL 4 I didn't need to shorten the chain, but then looking at your dinner plate sized largest cog there the reason becomes clear! On the SL 4 largest cog is a 42T, what's that 46T, 50T?

38T & 46T you'll be zooming up Ben Nevis!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Is there any guidance of how much to remove, or is it trial and error?

If your original ring was 44T and the new one is 38T, then it is (44-38)/2 = 3 links less. You can remove 2 or 4 links (I recommend removing 4 for better chain tension).
Removing links is basically irreversible.

38T & 46T you'll be zooming up Ben Nevis!

Perhaps not with the SL motor but such a gearing already falls into the MTB domain. (Had such a gearing on my full power Vado to make 19% grades).

 

[fatshark]

Mission accomplished ... while inspecting the cassette it was clear that the 11T had never been unused. Swapping out the 44T for a 38T chainring unsurprisingly reduced the gearing throughout by about 15%, which effectively moves the most frequently used cogs on the cassette into the middle, and frees up a monster 38T x 50T which should enable me to climb anything*. The hills around here are sufficiently steep I freewheel down many of them. I followed the Park Tool video for the sizing guidance, though it was slightly more complicated by the narrow/wide teeth on the 38T, and ended up removing 4 links as @Stefan Mikes suggested.

* the track to my house is 300 metres long and averages 20%

 

[Gee_Whiz]

Mission accomplished ... while inspecting the cassette it was clear that the 11T had never been unused. Swapping out the 44T for a 38T chainring unsurprisingly reduced the gearing throughout by about 15%, which effectively moves the most frequently used cogs on the cassette into the middle, and frees up a monster 38T x 50T which should enable me to climb anything*. The hills around here are sufficiently steep I freewheel down many of them. I followed the Park Tool video for the sizing guidance, though it was slightly more complicated by the narrow/wide teeth on the 38T, and ended up removing 4 links as @Stefan Mikes suggested.

View attachment 121650

* the track to my house is 300 metres long and averages 20%

Have you experienced any pedal spinouts at higher speeds?

 

[fatshark]

If you mean I can't pedal fast enough to keep the top gear engaged, then no. But I've not used it much. 38T x 11T at a cadence of 110 is about 50 km/hr ... I freewheel at that speed.

 

[BEC111]

Have you experienced any pedal spinouts at higher speeds?

I’ve spun out occasionally on 42/11 when I’ve been riding at high speed for a while and the conditions allow. My cadence is hitting 110 or higher. That means tail winds and a slight down slope. Usually in Sport assist. Hitting 32 mph plus. It doesn’t last because friction and fear slow me down. Also, at 74, I can’t pedal that hard for long.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Mission accomplished ... while inspecting the cassette it was clear that the 11T had never been unused. Swapping out the 44T for a 38T chainring unsurprisingly reduced the gearing throughout by about 15%, which effectively moves the most frequently used cogs on the cassette into the middle, and frees up a monster 38T x 50T which should enable me to climb anything*.

Not sure if there is no little misunderstanding here. Swapping the chainring to a smaller one indeed gives you the edge on climbing. However, it will use the small cogs more (not less) on the flat. Did I misunderstand anything?

 

[Gee_Whiz]

I’ve spun out occasionally on 42/11 when I’ve been riding at high speed for a while and the conditions allow. My cadence is hitting 110 or higher. That means tail winds and a slight down slope. Usually in Sport assist. Hitting 32 mph plus. It doesn’t last because friction and fear slow me down. Also, at 74, I can’t pedal that hard for long.

31/32 is a pretty good top speed for a 38t so thats a great thing

 

[Nubnub]

Not sure if there is no little misunderstanding here. Swapping the chainring to a smaller one indeed gives you the edge on climbing. However, it will use the small cogs more (not less) on the flat. Did I misunderstand anything?

I think he meant the 11 tooth cog was never used. So he would still retain some high end gearing with the smaller chain ring on the previously unused 11 tooth cog. Agreed that the smaller chainring will cause the smaller cogs to be used more when not climbing.

However I would hesitate to fail to deny that I almost didn't misunderstand his post.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

However I would hesitate to fail to deny that I almost didn't misunderstand his post.