Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

JM, interesting observation and regretfully I feel the same.. a buddy just bought the SL2 and I'm glad he can keep up on the climbs now lol. I hopped on after our ride and it didn't 'feel' like a carbon bike, except in the front. I'm sure that seat stay design is for compliance but it didn't impress me in that category either.

My 4.0 is the only alloy bike I've ever owned and I'm not cool with that. I already had the SL2 in my budget, but after riding it I just need a carbon fork in my wore out 4.0 and keep her healthy. Extra power, battery, flashy paint... unnecessary. I was simply hoping it would be a bike I could stay on longer and look fast sitting still, nope.
 
@MartsEbike: It is a shame to learn from Strava you have recovered your Vado SL from the repair :)

Haha this is true, the Vado SL has returned and is safely back in it's stable! :)

Having previously mentioned that I was waiting on a new battery to be delivered from Specialized, it turns out Specialized sent a package of entirely new electrical components! A new motor, a new battery and a new TCU were delivered to the bike shop - having already supplied a new wiring harness! So the bike is effectively brand new again, with just the 20 miles or so I've ridden in the last few days.

I had forgotten what it was like riding this bike. It felt like forever waiting for it's return - with Christmas and New Years delaying the repair process, but now it's back and I couldn't be happier! Although, I still had that paranoia of pressing the power button and nothing happening. But, it's fine, and turns on as it should! :D

The bike shop also gave the bike it's 6-week service, which it needed. Cable stretch of the shifters had meant it was previously skipping gears, but that's been addressed and it's shifting perfectly again. I would have done this myself but it's nice to see they've tackled it during the service.

I had also robbed my Kinekt Suspension Seat-post from the bike to use on my Sirrus while it was away for repair, but I have now refitted back on the Vado SL. I've also swapped the tyres for the Continental Terra Speeds that I purchased before Christmas, and they're an excellent tyre - with more grip than the Specialized Pathfinder Sports but with no noticeable difference in rolling resistance, despite the somewhat knobbly design. Despite this, I always had intentions of testing my Continental Contact Urban tyres on this bike, and may still do so - as much of my riding with this bike is on tarmac roads/paths, I feel they'd be great for adding speed and extending range. I may try them nearer the summer.

But right now I'm just happy being back on the saddle of this bike. So I'll get some miles under my belt before any other changes are made! If only the weather would co-operate - Storm Éowyn is expected to hit us tomorrow with rain and 40-50mph winds! o_O

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Unrelated: I've just replaced the inner tube in the front wheel of my Vado 6.0. The valve tore off because no talcum was applied inside the tyre. I haven't apply talcum again and gonna get into trouble soon :)
 
Unrelated: I've just replaced the inner tube in the front wheel of my Vado 6.0. The valve tore off because no talcum was applied inside the tyre. I haven't apply talcum again and gonna get into trouble soon :)

I hope it didn't happen while out riding!!! :(

When I changed the tyres on my bike the inner-tubes were stuck to the tyres, I had to peel them off! :rolleyes:
 
Hi fellow Vado SL 4.0 owners. I have been enjoying the new bike.

I have a problem with my headset that I was hoping the group could provide some insight on.

The vado SL 4.0 was set to me in a box with no assembly instructions. I found the instructions on line and torqued the main headset bolt to 5nm using a fairly decent torque wrench. After a few rides the handle bars and front wheel became mis-aligned so i just assumed my torque wrench was a bit out of calibration and increased the torque to 7.5nm and realigned the handle bars. I rode again today and the same thing happened with the handle bars becoming noticeably loose.

I thought maybe the issue was I had the wrong torque value ( as 5nm seems very low) but it's correct. Im guessing either im missing a part in the head set or someone prior has over torqued the headset bolt and crushed a component inside.

Anyone else have this issue? I search the Forum with no luck. Anyone have a link to a parts diagram for this headset so I can disassemble and inspect?

Thanks in advance for any assistance provided.

BC
 
I assume you have no Specialized dealer around? I recommend a visit to a nearest LBS (not necessarily Specialized) to fix the thing up.

Installing the modern threadless stem as yours is one of the easiest actions that can be done on a bike. 5 Nm is not a small torque there! You need to tighten both stem bolts on the steering tube to 5 Nm, that's it. A question, however:

There is the vertical bolt that goes through the cap all the way down to the "star" nut inside the steering tube. This bolt has to be tightened "by the feeling" the way there is no vertical play of the fork. You tighten that bolt after you have tightened the pinch bolts on the stem. Have you done is as well?

 
And check that there is no grease on the steerer tube! When you tighten the vertical bolt as Stefan says, the steering should run freely and when applying the front brake and rocking bike forward and backwards no play or clunking from the headset. Sometimes you have to make a few adjustments to get it just right.
 
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