Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

JM, interesting observation and regretfully I feel the same.. a buddy just bought the SL2 and I'm glad he can keep up on the climbs now lol. I hopped on after our ride and it didn't 'feel' like a carbon bike, except in the front. I'm sure that seat stay design is for compliance but it didn't impress me in that category either.

My 4.0 is the only alloy bike I've ever owned and I'm not cool with that. I already had the SL2 in my budget, but after riding it I just need a carbon fork in my wore out 4.0 and keep her healthy. Extra power, battery, flashy paint... unnecessary. I was simply hoping it would be a bike I could stay on longer and look fast sitting still, nope.
 
@MartsEbike: It is a shame to learn from Strava you have recovered your Vado SL from the repair :)

Haha this is true, the Vado SL has returned and is safely back in it's stable! :)

Having previously mentioned that I was waiting on a new battery to be delivered from Specialized, it turns out Specialized sent a package of entirely new electrical components! A new motor, a new battery and a new TCU were delivered to the bike shop - having already supplied a new wiring harness! So the bike is effectively brand new again, with just the 20 miles or so I've ridden in the last few days.

I had forgotten what it was like riding this bike. It felt like forever waiting for it's return - with Christmas and New Years delaying the repair process, but now it's back and I couldn't be happier! Although, I still had that paranoia of pressing the power button and nothing happening. But, it's fine, and turns on as it should! :D

The bike shop also gave the bike it's 6-week service, which it needed. Cable stretch of the shifters had meant it was previously skipping gears, but that's been addressed and it's shifting perfectly again. I would have done this myself but it's nice to see they've tackled it during the service.

I had also robbed my Kinekt Suspension Seat-post from the bike to use on my Sirrus while it was away for repair, but I have now refitted back on the Vado SL. I've also swapped the tyres for the Continental Terra Speeds that I purchased before Christmas, and they're an excellent tyre - with more grip than the Specialized Pathfinder Sports but with no noticeable difference in rolling resistance, despite the somewhat knobbly design. Despite this, I always had intentions of testing my Continental Contact Urban tyres on this bike, and may still do so - as much of my riding with this bike is on tarmac roads/paths, I feel they'd be great for adding speed and extending range. I may try them nearer the summer.

But right now I'm just happy being back on the saddle of this bike. So I'll get some miles under my belt before any other changes are made! If only the weather would co-operate - Storm Éowyn is expected to hit us tomorrow with rain and 40-50mph winds! o_O

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Unrelated: I've just replaced the inner tube in the front wheel of my Vado 6.0. The valve tore off because no talcum was applied inside the tyre. I haven't apply talcum again and gonna get into trouble soon :)
 
Unrelated: I've just replaced the inner tube in the front wheel of my Vado 6.0. The valve tore off because no talcum was applied inside the tyre. I haven't apply talcum again and gonna get into trouble soon :)

I hope it didn't happen while out riding!!! :(

When I changed the tyres on my bike the inner-tubes were stuck to the tyres, I had to peel them off! :rolleyes:
 
Hi fellow Vado SL 4.0 owners. I have been enjoying the new bike.

I have a problem with my headset that I was hoping the group could provide some insight on.

The vado SL 4.0 was set to me in a box with no assembly instructions. I found the instructions on line and torqued the main headset bolt to 5nm using a fairly decent torque wrench. After a few rides the handle bars and front wheel became mis-aligned so i just assumed my torque wrench was a bit out of calibration and increased the torque to 7.5nm and realigned the handle bars. I rode again today and the same thing happened with the handle bars becoming noticeably loose.

I thought maybe the issue was I had the wrong torque value ( as 5nm seems very low) but it's correct. Im guessing either im missing a part in the head set or someone prior has over torqued the headset bolt and crushed a component inside.

Anyone else have this issue? I search the Forum with no luck. Anyone have a link to a parts diagram for this headset so I can disassemble and inspect?

Thanks in advance for any assistance provided.

BC
 
I assume you have no Specialized dealer around? I recommend a visit to a nearest LBS (not necessarily Specialized) to fix the thing up.

Installing the modern threadless stem as yours is one of the easiest actions that can be done on a bike. 5 Nm is not a small torque there! You need to tighten both stem bolts on the steering tube to 5 Nm, that's it. A question, however:

There is the vertical bolt that goes through the cap all the way down to the "star" nut inside the steering tube. This bolt has to be tightened "by the feeling" the way there is no vertical play of the fork. You tighten that bolt after you have tightened the pinch bolts on the stem. Have you done is as well?

 
And check that there is no grease on the steerer tube! When you tighten the vertical bolt as Stefan says, the steering should run freely and when applying the front brake and rocking bike forward and backwards no play or clunking from the headset. Sometimes you have to make a few adjustments to get it just right.
 
Hi fellow Vado SL 4.0 owners. I have been enjoying the new bike.

I have a problem with my headset that I was hoping the group could provide some insight on.

The vado SL 4.0 was set to me in a box with no assembly instructions. I found the instructions on line and torqued the main headset bolt to 5nm using a fairly decent torque wrench. After a few rides the handle bars and front wheel became mis-aligned so i just assumed my torque wrench was a bit out of calibration and increased the torque to 7.5nm and realigned the handle bars. I rode again today and the same thing happened with the handle bars becoming noticeably loose.

I thought maybe the issue was I had the wrong torque value ( as 5nm seems very low) but it's correct. Im guessing either im missing a part in the head set or someone prior has over torqued the headset bolt and crushed a component inside.

Anyone else have this issue? I search the Forum with no luck. Anyone have a link to a parts diagram for this headset so I can disassemble and inspect?

Thanks in advance for any assistance provided.

BC
Hi,

first off it is not ok to receive a bike which is not properly setup by a bike mechanic. As I understand from my side in the bussiness there are the same rules applying in CA as in the EU for making a vehicule roadworthy by an authorized reseller before it can be taken onto the public roads.

Besides that, the bolt going into the steerertube vertically is to set the preload on the bearings, the bolt(s) going horizontaly through a stem are there to clamp the stm onto the steerer tube. If these are torqued to the correct value there should be no movement in this assembly based on the requirements in the EN15194 :)2017--jadada)


Some brands do advice to use a carbon "grease"/assembly paste in carbon steerers to comply with the EN norms. I do not have a clear picture on your situation but I would check the clamping bolts as mentioned above and/or contact the dealer.


Cheers from the Netherlands
 
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What I wanted to post besides the rant above ;D


Since a few days we have a pair of these in the bike stable. (N+1) . My partner already had a Como which failed (as usual the DU bracket) and this was replaced with the heavy duty Vado with the biggest battery (so ok servcie for 3 months waiting.... as being Dutch these are daily drivers). She wanted a second lightweight e-bike (besides all the other bikes.... we can pick a different per day....) so ended up buying one Vado SL at a price way lower than a Sirrus X. I did the build with the fender/rack etc and took it for a spin and was hooked on the drive caristarics of the Mahle DU. So being so cheap bought a second one. As we are almost the same size on GEO spec this is a great option.

to make it roadworthy here I've added K market spoke reflectors, a bell, front and rear reflectors and an extra LED rearlight for when riding with a longer parka. also a Hebie KSA40 kickstand and a set of Hbied Alumee fender rakcs with an Axa Flexi-mount and Defender lock completes these bikes, just need an extra chain lock for my bike so we can get insurance on them.

I do have another e-bike ('s), dropbar with a Bosch Active line with 504Wh DT battery which is my daily driver to work and around town, these will be our lightweight bikes to drag around to campsite's, public transport etc. (or just for fun rides)

the other E-bikes run different systems and are a bit less used (pre-production E-6500 forexample with rearwheel motor from a long gone motor brand)


Cheers
 
FullpowerVado comparerd with the Vado SL

Size L vado and Vado SL is XL, lamost the same geo, SL is actually 1cm shorter in reach.

SL has the Sigma ROX4.0 as display with navigation in it, works great with the DU.

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SL has the Sigma ROX4.0 as display with navigation in it, works great with the DU.
Good to know the next compatible GPS bike computer!
I assume you own no SL Range Extender? I ask this because Wahoo is the only GPS bike computer that can handle the Range Extender according to my experience.
 
At this moment not the intention to ride with an extra battery strapped to the bike.

the daily is a "fullpower" Bosch bike (OE Dongle so custom firmware with slightly les support on eco) and I still get 200 a 220 km from the 504 Wh battery after 4 1/2 years (so 1 month office cycling)

mix of fenders, trashed the rear fender, racktime rear rack with Lezyne light, Supernova front, EN and roadlaw legal with al reflectors, even the flats have them. And since rack from a German dealer it still has the famous mousetrap (federklappe) on the rack. Battery cozy is on there due to the sub zero temps at this moment. Also a gopro style mount underneath the dispaly bracket from a display midmount from a L600+ (could also be from a X600+ or Saphire+)

So at this moment no conclusion on the battery and external battery communication with the Sigma ROX4.0


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I recently got a Vado SL 4 EQ and found the handlebars too low. I read a lot of threads on here about raising the handlebars and asked my local bike shop to do a stem riser. They preferred to try use a raised handlebar as they were more confident it wouldnt need the break likes rerun. Overall I'm pretty happy, I would prefer them to be a bit higher but it was pretty cheap since the break lines didn't need to be rerun.
 

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I recently got a Vado SL 4 EQ and found the handlebars too low. I read a lot of threads on here about raising the handlebars and asked my local bike shop to do a stem riser. They preferred to try use a raised handlebar as they were more confident it wouldnt need the break likes rerun. Overall I'm pretty happy, I would prefer them to be a bit higher but it was pretty cheap since the break lines didn't need to be rerun.
Bear in mind the more relaxed position you ride, the more of your body weight lands on your butt :) Just saying.
 
Bear in mind the more relaxed position you ride, the more of your body weight lands on your butt :) Just saying.
Yeah I might need to get a more comfortable saddle. I do feel stupid for not buying a bike with a more upright position. It's the first bike I've owned since in a long time and I ordered it online without seeing one. I really liked that it was electric and light and didn't consider the riding position.
 
Yeah I might need to get a more comfortable saddle. I do feel stupid for not buying a bike with a more upright position. It's the first bike I've owned since in a long time and I ordered it online without seeing one. I really liked that it was electric and light and didn't consider the riding position.
If you want to ride for any length of time or distance it would be better to get used to a sportier position as opposed to an upright position. There is no saddle that feels comfortable after awhile when in an upright position with the majority of your weight resting on your back end. If you're just going for shorter cruiser type rides than, yes, the upright position may work better.
 
So. They changed the phone app over a year ago. Since that time I have no idea if there are any firmware updates for the SL1. The last one I know of, is the 80% battery firmware. Anything new?

Maybe this is the reason, they took updates off the app? So we would just stick with what we have and not worry about it.
 
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