Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Bleeding should not be necessary. Changing the oil every few years is good PM, but not bleeding. Pad wear has so many variables. Cyclocross racers replace pads every other weekend. Touring types, every season. Occasional riders, maybe every other season. I don't think that you're doing anything wrong. I would ask your mechanic about the frequent bleeding. Were the levers soft? Were your hydraulic connections loosening up and letting air in? Or is it just "good practice"?
 
stompandgo said:
Bleeding should not be necessary. Changing the oil every few years is good PM, but not bleeding. Pad wear has so many variables. Cyclocross racers replace pads every other weekend. Touring types, every season. Occasional riders, maybe every other season. I don't think that you're doing anything wrong. I would ask your mechanic about the frequent bleeding. Were the levers soft? Were your hydraulic connections loosening up and letting air in? Or is it just "good practice"?
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Thanks! Yes, in both instances, the lever very gradually went soft (frog in pot effect), but the service visit was finally triggered by one pad dragging on its rotor.

Thanks to the growing consensus about the abnormal bleeding frequency, I'm going to press hard on that issue.
 
Jeremy McCreary said:
Scraping front brake on my SL 1 had to be bled and repadded after some very heavy use in the last few days. Closing in on 1 year and 3,000 mi in pretty hilly terrain. Same happened to the much more used rear brake 5-6 months ago.

Q1. Is this normal?

Q2. Should I be pushing for more than bleeding and pad replacement while I'm still under warranty?

I trust my authorized Specialized mechanic, who routinely works on bikes costing 3 times as much — think Colnago, Pinarello, Factor as well as Specialized. He says it's normal, but it never hurts to check.

Q3. I tend to keep a pretty firm grip on one or both brakes at stops. Just a habit. Am I contributing to the problem?

Thanks!
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I had a piston on one of my rear brakes that wasn't fully retracting. On one ride, I remove the brake pads because it happened during a ride and I was annoyed.

Ended up removing it all, cleaning/lubing the pistons and resetting them back in position. Something to think about, because it could be more than just fluid.
 
mogulman said:
I had a piston on one of my rear brakes that wasn't fully retracting. On one ride, I remove the brake pads because it happened during a ride and I was annoyed.

Ended up removing it all, cleaning/lubing the pistons and resetting them back in position. Something to think about, because it could be more than just fluid.
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Exactly what happened to both my brakes, rear first and now front. And yes, they did all that at the shop both times. (With no previous disc brake experience, not brave enough to do my own brake work in this hilly area.)
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Not sure what your brake pads are but I would go with semi-metallic ones were I you. The only con of semi-metallic pads they can be squeaky (especially after it has rained; but "Seems it never rains in southern California")
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The bike came with organic pads, but all the replacements have been semi-metallic.

20250723_160600.jpg

The only squealing I get is from time spent close to the water. Guessing it's the microspic water droplets and salt crystals the surf throws into the sea breeze.

20230122_094623.jpg

May not be visible right where you're standing, but you can often see the haze in a long view down the beach, especially on windy big-surf days.

The squeal's gone after a few minutes of riding. No sign of long-term corrosion from these frequent beach stops, but maybe I should rinse the brakes afterward, just to be safe.
 
Jeremy McCreary said:
Thanks! Yes, in both instances, the lever very gradually went soft (frog in pot effect), but the service visit was finally triggered by one pad dragging on its rotor.

Thanks to the growing consensus about the abnormal bleeding frequency, I'm going to press hard on that issue.
Click to expand...
I’ve had a somewhat similar experience with my brakes this summer. I’d had to ride in a heavy rain several times and when breaking my brakes squealed loudly and often. in the days that followed my breaking efficiency markedly declined. I checked the pads and the rear pads were very glazed. In addition, the lever was squishy.

I sanded the pads so their grip improved but after the deglazing, the rear brake was still squishy. I was concerned since I’d had them bled the previous year And didn’t really want to have it done again. Coincidentally, I saw a video about doing a lever bleed. I was intrigued and resolved to check it out but not to go the my LBS as the labor costs would be prohibitive. I bought an Amazon bleeding kit and tried the lever bleed.

After a short ride around my home the brakes were much better. The lever bleed worked and only cost me $15. Longer ride coming in the next few days. It will be interesting to see how well it actually worked.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
It looks my SL Range Extender marked by me as "unnamed" has been shot. Symptoms:
  • The TCU displays the "Range Extender Error" pattern
  • The battery displays one red bar and two flashing green bars.
I think this specific RE was slightly problematic from the start. The good thing the battery is not warm at any point. Well, written off!
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The two flashing error just showed on one of my SL Range Extenders. Unfortunately it won't charge with any of two chargers I have or turn on with either of two bike when attached with different cables. I assume it's a fatal RE battery error. I don't want to take my bike to the shop right now for a possible diagnosis but I sent an inquiry to Specialized support just in case.
 
Allan, turned out the problematic RE has recovered. Only I pay a great attention when using (and especially charging) it.
 
Jeremy McCreary said:
The bike came with organic pads, but all the replacements have been semi-metallic.

View attachment 198008
The only squealing I get is from time spent close to the water. Guessing it's the microspic water droplets and salt crystals the surf throws into the sea breeze.

View attachment 198010
May not be visible right where you're standing, but you can often see the haze in a long view down the beach, especially on windy big-surf days.

The squeal's gone after a few minutes of riding. No sign of long-term corrosion from these frequent beach stops, but maybe I should rinse the brakes afterward, just to be safe.
Click to expand...
We both live and ride in similar environments, except that we get winter. When I take the bike(s) inside for the winter, I'll do a full service, and also check every fastener for torque (loosen, then tighten) to make sure that there's no corrosion going on. My brakes (Maguro 4 piston MT5e) have never made a sound, but the front rotor needs to be trued as it's dragging a tiny bit. I'll get to it eventually. It's like the plumber with the leaky sink.
 
Cycologist said:
What semi-metallic pad do you guys recommend for the Turbo Vado SL?
The brakes could use a little more bite on this thing.
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I have had enough trouble to find good organic compatible pads.... SwissStop Disc 34E serve my purposes well.

stompandgo said:
Have you cleaned the pads and rotors with isopropyl alcohol? I'd do that before replacing the pads unless they're worn out.
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I do not need to do it but whenever that would be necessary, your good inexpensive automotive brake cleaner is the thing :)
 
stompandgo said:
Brake cleaner is wicked toxic. I save that for only the worst degreasing tasks. Why use a nuke when it's not necessary.
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Recently, I keep this can of bike brake cleaner:
1754779097628.png

It is a Dutch company and it claims they are an official technical partner to Red Bull - BORA - hansgrohe. I don't think a Euro company would be allowed to sell toxic products...
 
mogulman said:
A local distillery near me had some 190 proof alcohol. I use that to clean my brakes. Bonus....if I get some crazy friends over, they can try a taste. So much burn!:)
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Wow, that's 95% ethanol! Please read up on the dangers before drinking more.

That burn's trying to tell you something. They ablate (destroy) small tumors by injecting them with ethanol. Think of the effect on your mouth, esophagus, and stomach. Then there's the acute liver toxicity. I could go on.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
I have had enough trouble to find good organic compatible pads.... SwissStop Disc 34E serve my purposes well.


I do not need to do it but whenever that would be necessary, your good inexpensive automotive brake cleaner is the thing :)
Click to expand...
I chuck the contaminated pads in the dishwasher. Then give them a quick scrape with some fine sandpaper. Works like a charm. Easypeasy.
 
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