Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Stefan Mikes]

Spec Tracer Pros @ 47mm

I have equipped my Fearless with SKS Speedrocker mudguards for the wet weather. Unfortunately, these marvellously engineered fenders allow tyres up to 42 mm only. Not a big deal for me as I believe 42 mm is the optimum for a gravel bike (although many people enjoy really big rubbers!)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I met a Tero 3.0 rider in Warsaw on Saturday. We briefly shared our experiences, then the devil disappeared at a distance when we both were climbing one of the steepest streets of Warsaw

He had a look at my Vado SL and asked: 'That must be a high end version of that e-bike?' to which I humbly replied 'No, that's the inexpensive one; I just had upgraded it'

 

[Stefan Mikes]

More Than Vado SL!

This morning, I rode my Vado SL to the local bike store, Jakoobcycles. I ordered a tubeless conversion but had no way to get back home. The co-owner (these are twins to own the LBS) just lent me their precious family bicycle... and told me the story behind the bike! The last sentence of the man was: 'So you understand I and brother rather like the bike, so please return it unscathed'

Ladies and gentlemen, let me present an American Eagle Paducah (The First Olympic Champion)! Believe or not but that was how an MTB looked in 1990s. One Bart Brentjens won the gold in a new discipline of "Mountain Biking" during the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta riding such a bike. The CrMo steel bicycle is pretty lightweight even nowadays. I could ride it home and back, and even climb an overpass twice with the front derailleur not working!

I regret I didn't take a photo of the headstock logo: a head of a proud white eagle!

Regarding my Vado SL:

• Bent front brake rotor (straightened by the mechanic)
• Bent derailleur hanger (available on the spot in Specialized Warsaw)
• Converted to tubeless with Chris King valves, and...
• Specialized Tracer Pro 2Bliss 42-622 tyres.

The SKS Speedrocker mudguards are pretty tight now but I only attach the fenders during wet weather!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Replacing Bent Derailleur Hanger

It went fast. I rode to the Specialized LBS of my preference. The required derailleur hanger was in stock. It took the technician 10 minutes to replace the part and re-adjust the derailleur. I paid PLN139 (USD35) for the part and the work.

Now, the gear shifting is crisp and precise!

On the way to the LBS.

Post repair, Specialized Warsaw.

A reward for hard pedalling!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

How I converted a Vado SL 4.0 EQ to be a sporty, gravel capable e-bike

It took me a lot of time to eventually have determined my actual needs related to the Vado SL. Now, it is my big Vado 6.0 to serve tasks such as grocery shopping, and my Vado SL is only for recreation.

• Removed the mudguards (fenders) and the rear rack. In case of need, I just strap the SKS Speedrockers onto the e-bike.
• Removed the tail-light and replaced it with a rechargeable one from Knog.
• Went with a 11-speed drivetrain, Shimano M5100 groupset.
• Went with a 36T chainring. It limits my top speed to some 32 km/h (20 mph) but come on, I prefer a great climbing capability and good assist in rough terrain to speed.
• Installed Specialized Tracer Pro 42-622 tyres tubeless.
• Redshift ShockStop stem 100 mm/-6 deg. Plus a Computer (Wahoo) and a Utility Mount from the same brand.
• Added SQlab Innerbarends 410/402 with 710 grips.
• CrankBrothers Stamp 3 Large pedals.
• Using a Wahoo ELEMNT Roam (v2) as the universal display.

All the rest are the stock components. I am especially happy with Tektro HD290 hydraulic disk brakes and the stock Bridge Sport Saddle (it is excellent for my sporty riding position, wearing chamois).

The total mileage of my Vado SL is now 14250 km. The total e-bike weight without Range Extender is 16.70 kg (36.8 lbs).

Two major repairs:

• Replacing a worn right hand side crankarm
• Replacing a bent derailleur hanger.

 

[Marquezdl]

How I converted a Vado SL 4.0 EQ to be a sporty, gravel capable e-bike

It took me a lot of time to eventually have determined my actual needs related to the Vado SL. Now, it is my big Vado 6.0 to serve tasks such as grocery shopping, and my Vado SL is only for recreation.

• Removed the mudguards (fenders) and the rear rack. In case of need, I just strap the SKS Speedrockers onto the e-bike.
• Removed the tail-light and replaced it with a rechargeable one from Knog.
• Went with a 11-speed drivetrain, Shimano M5100 groupset.
• Went with a 36T chainring. It limits my top speed to some 32 km/h (20 mph) but come on, I prefer a great climbing capability and good assist in rough terrain to speed.
• Installed Specialized Tracer Pro 42-622 tyres tubeless.
• Redshift ShockStop stem 100 mm/-6 deg. Plus a Computer (Wahoo) and a Utility Mount from the same brand.
• Added SQlab Innerbarends 410/402 with 710 grips.
• CrankBrothers Stamp 3 Large pedals.
• Using a Wahoo ELEMNT Roam (v2) as the universal display.

All the rest are the stock components. I am especially happy with Tektro HD290 hydraulic disk brakes and the stock Bridge Sport Saddle (it is excellent for my sporty riding position, wearing chamois).

The total mileage of my Vado SL is now 14250 km. The total e-bike weight without Range Extender is 16.70 kg (36.8 lbs).

Two major repairs:

• Replacing a worn right hand side crankarm
• Replacing a bent derailleur hanger.

How I converted a Vado SL 4.0 EQ to be a sporty, gravel capable e-bike

It took me a lot of time to eventually have determined my actual needs related to the Vado SL. Now, it is my big Vado 6.0 to serve tasks such as grocery shopping, and my Vado SL is only for recreation.

• Removed the mudguards (fenders) and the rear rack. In case of need, I just strap the SKS Speedrockers onto the e-bike.
• Removed the tail-light and replaced it with a rechargeable one from Knog.
• Went with a 11-speed drivetrain, Shimano M5100 groupset.
• Went with a 36T chainring. It limits my top speed to some 32 km/h (20 mph) but come on, I prefer a great climbing capability and good assist in rough terrain to speed.
• Installed Specialized Tracer Pro 42-622 tyres tubeless.
• Redshift ShockStop stem 100 mm/-6 deg. Plus a Computer (Wahoo) and a Utility Mount from the same brand.
• Added SQlab Innerbarends 410/402 with 710 grips.
• CrankBrothers Stamp 3 Large pedals.
• Using a Wahoo ELEMNT Roam (v2) as the universal display.

All the rest are the stock components. I am especially happy with Tektro HD290 hydraulic disk brakes and the stock Bridge Sport Saddle (it is excellent for my sporty riding position, wearing chamois).

The total mileage of my Vado SL is now 14250 km. The total e-bike weight without Range Extender is 16.70 kg (36.8 lbs).

Two major repairs:

• Replacing a worn right hand side crankarm
• Replacing a bent derailleur hanger.

OK Stefan, a question for you. I think I am going to do pretty much the same thing.
how did you disconnect the taillight? Just snip the wire and tape over the end, or did you actually unplug it somewhere in the bottom bracket shell?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

OK Stefan, a question for you. I think I am going to do pretty much the same thing.
how did you disconnect the taillight? Just snip the wire and tape over the end, or did you actually unplug it somewhere in the bottom bracket shell?

Just snip the wire and tape over the end

This ^

did you actually unplug it somewhere in the bottom bracket shell?

It is possible to remove the TCU (use Torx 10 wrench). One of the plugs on the TCU is for a very long wire that goes all the way back to the tail-light...

 

[Te. S]

This ^

It is possible to remove the TCU (use Torx 10 wrench). One of the plugs on the TCU is for a very long wire that goes all the way back to the tail-light...

Did you have to drop the motor or not to remove the light I have the Eq model

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Did you have to drop the motor or not to remove the light I have the Eq model

If you just want to cut the wire and tape its end then there's no need to drop the motor.
Now, it you want to unplug the wire from the TCU and pull the long wire through the whole frame to remove it, I simply don't know whether the tail-light wire is fastened somewhere on the way or not.

 

[Marquezdl]

Sounds like the snip is the way to go!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Sounds like the snip is the way to go!

It's at least simple to do!

 

[rochrunner]

My 2022 Vado SL 5.0 in its 2024 incarnation. Changes include:

• Custom built wheels with silent Vesper Onyx hubs by prowheelbuilder.com
• Specialized Pathfinder Pro 700x42 tires
• Ergon Evo saddle
• Ergon grips
• Shimano flat pedals (replacing SPDs)

I retained the Inner Bar Ends as well. Interestingly, I tried this same saddle on my old Vado 4.0 and rejected it. However, this is a different bike and I also bought the smaller size. My sit-bone width put me between sizes and I read somewhere that it might be better to go smaller in such a situation. I also bought it this time from REI, where I get a full year to return it with no questions asked.

This is also a bit of an experiment to go back to flat pedals, and I even bought some really nice Adidas FreeRider shoes to go with the new pedals. If these work out I might switch pedals on my hybrid bike but will retain the SPD clips on my road bike.

Unfortunately, since this photo was taken just a couple weeks ago, the weather has practically turned into winter again and I haven't been willing to go out for a longer ride to get a better feel for the changes.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

What rear rack are you using?

 

[Rás Cnoic]

View attachment 174604

My 2022 Vado SL 5.0 in its 2024 incarnation. Changes include:

• Custom built wheels with silent Vesper Onyx hubs by prowheelbuilder.com
• Specialized Pathfinder Pro 700x42 tires
• Ergon Evo saddle
• Ergon grips
• Shimano flat pedals (replacing SPDs)

I retained the Inner Bar Ends as well. Interestingly, I tried this same saddle on my old Vado 4.0 and rejected it. However, this is a different bike and I also bought the smaller size. My sit-bone width put me between sizes and I read somewhere that it might be better to go smaller in such a situation. I also bought it this time from REI, where I get a full year to return it with no questions asked.

This is also a bit of an experiment to go back to flat pedals, and I even bought some really nice Adidas FreeRider shoes to go with the new pedals. If these work out I might switch pedals on my hybrid bike but will retain the SPD clips on my road bike.

Unfortunately, since this photo was taken just a couple weeks ago, the weather has practically turned into winter again and I haven't been willing to go out for a longer ride to get a better feel for the changes.

That’s a smart looking machine!

 

[Chatham fox]

That’s a smart looking machine!

Very nice looking ride!

 

[mfgrep]

Looks great. Tell me about the wheels! I am very envious of those wheels. Did it make a huge difference?

 

[rochrunner]

What rear rack are you using?

That's a really inexpensive "Transit" rack from a mail-order company in the U.S. called Performance Bike (performancebike.com). I used the trick of using a single mounting strap and attaching to the bolt under the rear seat stay bridge where a fender mounts on an equipped model.

 

[rochrunner]

Looks great. Tell me about the wheels! I am very envious of those wheels. Did it make a huge difference?

I'll let you know as soon as the weather lets me put some miles on it. I'm no longer as much of an all-weather rider like I used to be or like @Stefan Mikes is.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

That's a really inexpensive "Transit" rack from a mail-order company in the U.S. called Performance Bike (performancebike.com). I used the trick of using a single mounting strap and attaching to the bolt under the rear seat stay bridge where a fender mounts on an equipped model.

Thank you! So far. I'm happily riding with a backpack. However, I might go your way for long summer rides when I would need food, drinks, Range Extenders, tools, etc. The metal strip trick is very smart indeed, and I am sure my brother could "cook" something like that for me. Or, I could consider a saddle bag as many gravel cyclist do (the benefit is a properly loaded saddle bag is not as shaky as a pannier is).

@mfgrep: I know you love good things Jason but before you go and spend $$$ on the wheels, please listen to this:
Specialized SL wheels are of a very high quality. These are tubeless ready! You would be well off if you just converted the stock wheels to tubeless as I did myself. Yes, it is nice to see "DT Swiss" on the rims but would you like to spend a lot of money just for that? The wheels of my Vado SL have rolled for 14,275 km (8,871 mi) and show no signs of tear or wear. And now they are tubeless.

Another matter is the rear hub, which is indeed noisy when you are coasting. @rochrunner (Doug) hated the ratchet noise as much as he must have spent a good money for the Onyx hubs. Me and brother have inspected the stock rear hub of the Vado SL to find it of a high quality. The cheapest way to silence the hub is to pack the freehub body tightly with grease... Possibly not as good as Onyx but let me just tell you the legendary DT Swiss 350 rear hub is silent as it is new just because its freehub body comes packed with grease...

Just saying.

 

[rochrunner]

Another matter is the rear hub, which is indeed noisy when you are coasting. @rochrunner (Doug) hated the ratchet noise as much as he must have spent a good money for the Onyx hubs. Me and brother have inspected the stock rear hub of the Vado SL to find it of a high quality. The cheapest way to silence the hub is to pack the freehub body tightly with grease... Possibly not as good as Onyx but let me just tell you the legendary DT Swiss 350 rear hub is silent as it is new just because its freehub body comes packed with grease...

Just saying.

You're right on this, and I considered getting the DT350 hubs with the star ratchet but it was so much fun configuring my wheels that I went top-end all the way. Too bad that this model bike has a black and silver color scheme since the Onyx hubs are available in a number of anodized colors; you can also get spoke nipples in color. My old road bike was white and blue, and the wheels I had built for it had blue hubs and spoke nipples and it looked really sharp. For the SL wheels I at least specified silver bladed spokes to give it a little flash.

I also agonized over going tubeless, but given the limited e-biking that I do these days and the fact that I haven't had an on-the-road puncture flat in the last two years (and actually across all three of my bikes!), going tubeless just wasn't worth the hassles of dealing with the sealant and all that. So I mounted them with tubes.

By the way, one of the guys in my regular biking group has a similar SL and his hub ratcheting has been commented on by some others (so it's not just me). What makes it particularly annoying is that he is one of those riders who keeps up a constant pedal-pedal-coast cadence instead of pedaling more consistently, but at least I always know when he's close behind me!