Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Nubnub]

There is a bike path along the river that has numerous underpasses. When there is heavy rain the path floods and when it recedes it leaves a coating of very slick river silt. So in the rainy season I do a similar thing, I swap out the Pathfinders on my Tero for 2.35 Ground Control up front and the 47 mm Rhombus on the rear.

 

[rochrunner]

I riding with the B-17 on my SL. Really like it.

Thanks. Look nice on that yellow bike! You've convinced me to give it a go, although even though it and the Anatomica are both leather, they're quite different in design and feel. I might end up with the Anatomica in the end, but I have nothing to lose by trying my old trusty touring saddle!

BTW, at the risk of TMI, I had some surgery on my buttock a couple years ago that was done by a colorectal surgeon. When I asked him how soon I could get back on a bike, he said something like "due to [my] anatomy in that area", I should always wear bike shorts with good padding. If anyone knows about anatomy in that area it would be him, so maybe that explains why I have always had difficulty with comfort on bike seats.

 

[CodyDog]

Thanks. Look nice on that yellow bike! You've convinced me to give it a go, although even though it and the Anatomica are both leather, they're quite different in design and feel. I might end up with the Anatomica in the end, but I have nothing to lose by trying my old trusty touring saddle!

I had a Anatomica in the past but sold it with a bike. I did like a lot and it is different from the B-17. The problem is trying out the better seats as an experiment can get expensive.

 

[AvalancheRun]

Next Steps To Convert My Vado SL 4 EQ Into A Sporty Gravel Bike

I was getting unexplained inner tube punctures in the front wheel since the last gravel group ride; these were tiny holes with the deflation taking several hours! That made me really irritated. Solved the issue by filling the inner tube with a lot of sealant, spreading the liquid by often spinning the wheel, giving it time to seal the puncture, and reinflating. The issue seems to be temporarily solved but the whole situation made me want to do many modifications so I could enjoy a sporty gravel e-bike for this year's races.

First of all, I made a booking at an LBS in the neighbourhood for the tubeless conversion for April 15th! I need more aggresive gravel tyres in size 42-622 (700x42), so had to eventually remove the rear fender (including a damaged tail-light) and the rear-rack. (The front has its fender removed for several years now).

@CodyDog: you will laugh! I started with dropping the SL motor to see how the tail-light wire was routed It has turned out the wire is very long, and it travels above the motor and through the bottom tube to reach the TCU! So I did exactly what you did Cut the wire at the motor and insulated the end. I actually didn't need to drop the motor but at least learned doing it myself!

Removed the rear wheel to remove the fender and rear rack. One of the screws stuck. I got furious and now the fender including the damaged tail-light is in a bin. (Now, a Knog Road Blinder R70 is on the seat post as the tail-light).

Dropping the motor required removing the chainring. Having had such an opportunity made me swap the 42T chainring for a 36T one. That required shortening the chain. Now, I have a 11-51T 11-speed cassette, a 36T chainring, and the chain length is 118 links.

The next step will be temporarily installing the set of SKS Speedrocket mudguards for the wet season, and eventually the tubeless conversion. Does anybody have experience with Specialized Tracer Pro or Rhombus Pro tyres? I need more aggresive tyres for my gravel rides but would love having them rotating fast on asphalt! @Nubnub? @AvalancheRun?

No pictures until all the work has been finished and my Fearless gets a good washing! Now, I am almost ready for my races!

No complaints with the tracers. They work great on and off road. I’m not blown away by them, but also see no reason to change.

That photo I posted in the Creo 2 thread in the mud was taken after 3 miles riding with that clay on the wheels. The bike wiggled a lot but I made it just fine. I think the motor helped to smooth out my power delivery. I don’t see my diverge handling that on pathfinders - though at the same time it’s much easier to correct in a slide. Always a trade off!

The tracers surprised me most going through uneven fields. Yes, I crashed once but it was a surprisingly comfortable ride - and as you know I’ve complained a lot about comfort.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The word became flesh!

(Isn't it interesting @PDoz Specialized has used the word "adventure" in the context of gravel cycling? )

 

[rochrunner]

I had a Anatomica in the past but sold it with a bike. I did like a lot and it is different from the B-17. The problem is trying out the better seats as an experiment can get expensive.

Amen on that! My greatest fear is that my wife might look in the box where I keep my "collection" and start asking questions...

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Fancy I'm riding the stock saddle on my a Vado SL?

 

[LazyJ]

Thanks friends for the reassuring instructions, unplugged the light wires under the TCU, cut the rear taillight wire and left it in there, simple once you say goodbye to those sweet lights.. But now I have my Fizik saddle, cobblegobbler, and 30mm more stem on my 4.0. Took me 3 years, my butt is so gratefull to you!!

Ya'll talking about Rhombus 42's, I've been running them for two years. But like all of my mtb tires I flappydisk all the side knobs off, and Rhombus has some silly large ones, 80 grit and steady nerves. Makes for a fast, plush tire with plenty of rowdy. I tried Rambler 40's that were given to me thinking they might roll faster, not even close.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My eventual choice has been...

If Rhombus were available, I might have take them. Tracer Pros were the second choice. It was my brother who advised me against Rhombus but said Tracers could be a better choice. He said I ride a lot on asphalt and not always the off-road is as extreme as to install knobby tyres permanenly.

 

[LazyJ]

That Tracer has the same tread pattern that runs down the center of the Rhombus that's so dang fast! Didn't know they existed, I may have to declare myself in need of 'summer tire'. First hint of wet leaves in the fall I gotta have some knobs tho.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The latest iteration. SKS Speedrocker mudguards are ready to be installed for predicted wet weather. The Tracer Pros are to be installed tubeless on April 15th.

My decision to go with the 36T chainring and the 11-51T cassette has turned out to be appropriate. I have decided to be riding with the legal 25 km/h speed restriction, and I am not a fast rider. The 20 gear-inch transmission can take me up any hill (one I met on the Wednesday ride: a steep sand dune with a sandy but rideable fire-road; I actually needed SL Turbo and the granny gear to climb it!) I am a high cadence rider, preferring spinning to mashing the cranks; my rides have turned into a pleasure! Yes, the CS-M5100 cassette has rather big jumps between the gears but that's the price for the wide-range gearing!

 

[Marquezdl]

Stefan,
that should be an amazing climbing setup. Particularly in loose or slippery conditions.
now that I have a few miles on my new Turbo Vado SL I am thinking that I would prefer lower gearing since I am not a fast rider either.
perhaps I shall go from an 11-42 to an 11-46 cassette to start with. I don’t need a 20 gear inch low since I am almost totally on pavement, albeit some really bad pavement at times. But I would be happier with a little more reserve climbing power, and I prefer not to use Turbo mode any more than necessary.
my last regular bike was a Specialized Sirus and I converted it to a 1x, 36cw with 11-46 cassette. It was a very capable climber even without any eboost available.
I am loving the ergos and handling of the TV SL. Feels much more like what I rode for most of the past 35 years.

 

[rochrunner]

Stefan,
that should be an amazing climbing setup. Particularly in loose or slippery conditions.
now that I have a few miles on my new Turbo Vado SL I am thinking that I would prefer lower gearing since I am not a fast rider either.
perhaps I shall go from an 11-42 to an 11-46 cassette to start with. I don’t need a 20 gear inch low since I am almost totally on pavement, albeit some really bad pavement at times. But I would be happier with a little more reserve climbing power, and I prefer not to use Turbo mode any more than necessary.

One reason I went with the SL 5.0 was the lower bottom gear ratio. It's very flat around here with just a few places with short climbs. However, after two full years, it occurred to me while tuning my derailleur the other day that I don't think I've ever actually shifted into the largest cog! When I got the bike I thought that I might be taking it on bike tours with possible hilly roads but circumstances have changed and I doubt I'll do anything ambitious like that in the future.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stefan,
that should be an amazing climbing setup. Particularly in loose or slippery conditions.
now that I have a few miles on my new Turbo Vado SL I am thinking that I would prefer lower gearing since I am not a fast rider either.
perhaps I shall go from an 11-42 to an 11-46 cassette to start with. I don’t need a 20 gear inch low since I am almost totally on pavement, albeit some really bad pavement at times. But I would be happier with a little more reserve climbing power, and I prefer not to use Turbo mode any more than necessary.
my last regular bike was a Specialized Sirus and I converted it to a 1x, 36cw with 11-46 cassette. It was a very capable climber even without any eboost available.
I am loving the ergos and handling of the TV SL. Feels much more like what I rode for most of the past 35 years.

Well, the simplest would be going for a smaller chainring (and shortening the chain)? Currently, I think you have a 44T chainring. Combined with the 42T granny gear gives gear ratio of 44/42 = 1.05. If you changed to 11-speed M7000 then you would need replace the shifter, cassette and derailleur (your derailleur won't accommodate the 46T cassette sprocket). Now, what you would get is the gear ratio of 44/46 = 0.96.

If you, however, just replaced the chainring with a 40T one, you'd avoid replacing the whole drivetrain because you'd get the same low end as above! Your drivetrain is Shimano I think, and replacing the chainring is pretty easy.

 

[Marquezdl]

Actually my new 2022 Turbo Vado SL 4.0 came with a 40 Tooth wheel and 11-42 11 speed cassette

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Actually my new 2022 Turbo Vado SL 4.0 came with a 40 Tooth wheel and 11-42 11 speed cassette

Is it a Praxis 104 BCD, 4 hole chainring? If you replace the major part of the drivetrain to the 11-46T cassette (including the new long cage derailleur), you will upgrade from the gear ratio of 0.95 to 0.87 only; a low value for money. However, going for a 36T chainring will improve your gearing ratio to 0.86 (the same!) at low cost.

Pros:

• Simple
• Inexpensive
• Effective
• Reversible
• A shorter and possibly less expensive chain

Cons:

• You will lose the chainguard
• You need to buy a "chainring bolt tool", it is Shimano TL-FC21 or Park Tool CNW-2 (these are very cheap)
• You will need to buy a pack of "MTB chainring bolts 8x8 mm" (these come in packs of five even if you only need four of them)

You will need a "Round chainring for 1x drivetrains, 104 BCD, 4-holes, 36T". These are extremely popular and available. They come from Shimano, Wolftooth but also from many inexpensive brands (Amazon, eBay...) As for myself, my latest choice has been:

SNAIL chainring

Trust me: This $18 thing is excellent! (Currently using it on my Vado SL). And this set includes the chainring bolts!

If you have questions how to replace the chainring, ask me. It is almost as simple as changing shoes...

 

[Marquezdl]

As always, good ideas Stefan! Muchas gracias!

 

[rochrunner]

You will need a "Round chainring for 1x drivetrains, 104 BCD, 4-holes, 36T". These are extremely popular and available. They come from Shimano, Wolftooth but also from many inexpensive brands (Amazon, eBay...) As for myself, my latest choice has been:

Is that a narrow-wide tooth part? The OEM chainring on my 5.0 is narrow-wide (which I didn't realize until I took the chain off for a deep cleaning when I was changing my wheels last week).

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Is that a narrow-wide tooth part? The OEM chainring on my 5.0 is narrow-wide (which I didn't realize until I took the chain off for a deep cleaning when I was changing my wheels last week).

Yes, it is! I bought the chainring from a good online store in Poland and thought they would not sell any rubbish It is so good!

 

[Dirtbagg]

Spec Tracer Pros @ 47mm
Tires was a big question for me when I decided on the Vado SL. My current e-bike was a conversion with a rear hub motor. The biggest tire I could fit was 40mm, and I’ve been lusting after my wife’s 47s. I’d seen a thread somewhere about running Schwabe’s @ 50mm on the Vado and my LBS was quick to show me the Tracers when I asked for 47s. The clearance is fine for the generally dry conditions I ride in, no different from the 40s on my current bike. I am a total evangelist for this tire. Fast on tarmac, stable when it’s loose. Cushy @ 30Psi, and a perfect complement to the Future Shock.