Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

CodyDog said:
Great question. I disconnected and removed until I reinstall the fenders and rack.
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Please kindly tell me how to disconnect the wires. My intention is to remove the rear fender & rack and use a rechargeable tail-light for less weight and a more sporty e-bike!
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Please kindly tell me how to disconnect the wires. My intention is to remove the rear fender & rack and use a rechargeable tail-light for less weight and a more sporty e-bike!
Click to expand...
Stefan: I did a clean wire cut out side of the bottom frame. This week I need to complete the job with a small wire connector. Deciding which style to use. Upon my completion, I will post some pics.
 
CodyDog said:
Stefan: I did a clean wire cut out side of the bottom frame. This week I need to complete the job with a small wire connector. Deciding which style to use. Upon my completion, I will post some pics.
Click to expand...
I might want to drop the motor and remove the connector from its socket. Not an action for faint-hearted :) Will ask my brother to do the motor-drop for me.

I cannot undertstand how it is done for the non-EQ version! I reckon that version uses a SWAT compatible saddle mount and a dedicated tail-light. No idea what it could be... I cannot, however, go that way as the Redshift ShockStop seat-post prevents routing the wire inside it.

Anyway, after disconnecting the tail-light, I intend to remove the rear fender and the rack. I would be using a Knog Road Blinder rechargeable tail-light mounted on the seat-post that is currently gathering the dust :) For the time being, I'm keeping the headlight. However, it will become temporarily disconnected, too, when I'm riding my gravel races (as the lighting consumes too much battery charge when the latter is critical).
 
Stefan Mikes said:
I might want to drop the motor and remove the connector from its socket. Not an action for faint-hearted :) Will ask my brother to do the motor-drop for me.

I cannot undertstand how it is done for the non-EQ version! I reckon that version uses a SWAT compatible saddle mount and a dedicated tail-light. No idea what it could be... I cannot, however, go that way as the Redshift ShockStop seat-post prevents routing the wire inside it.

Anyway, after disconnecting the tail-light, I intend to remove the rear fender and the rack. I would be using a Knog Road Blinder rechargeable tail-light mounted on the seat-post that is currently gathering the dust :) For the time being, I'm keeping the headlight. However, it will become temporarily disconnected, too, when I'm riding my gravel races (as the lighting consumes too much battery charge when the latter is critical).
Click to expand...
I thought debated about a motor drop. Not sure how difficult that process would be. With that being said, I want to use a small two wire connector in case I reinstall the fender and rack. Also as you mentioned, rerouting could be an issue. I currently use a seat post mounted reachable red lamp. Love the SL for gravel with Pathfinder Pro's.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Remember to move the magnet to the rear wheel when you have installed the brake rotor!
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Easy to do since the magnet is integrated with the lockring.

For "extra credit", can you tell me what's "wrong" here that is causing some considerable trouble for me in finishing this job? :confused:
2024-03-14 11.22.33.jpg
 
Stefan Mikes said:
I might want to drop the motor and remove the connector from its socket. Not an action for faint-hearted :) Will ask my brother to do the motor-drop for me.

I cannot undertstand how it is done for the non-EQ version! I reckon that version uses a SWAT compatible saddle mount and a dedicated tail-light. No idea what it could be... I cannot, however, go that way as the Redshift ShockStop seat-post prevents routing the wire inside it.

Anyway, after disconnecting the tail-light, I intend to remove the rear fender and the rack. I would be using a Knog Road Blinder rechargeable tail-light mounted on the seat-post that is currently gathering the dust :) For the time being, I'm keeping the headlight. However, it will become temporarily disconnected, too, when I'm riding my gravel races (as the lighting consumes too much battery charge when the latter is critical).
Click to expand...
there is plug thta the tail light wire plugs in to by the motor, my LBS told me you can get to it by removing just the cover, i don't think you need to drop the motor but please let me konw I would appreitated it. and if possiable post some pix please. i didnot want to cut wires.
 
Solution to the lockring problem. I'm very confident that I could tighten it sufficiently this way and probably close to the specified torque.

2024-03-16 10.47.58.jpg


Everything went well and the new wheels are on the bike with chain installed, etc. I had to re-center the front brake caliper slightly; the rear was OK. I of course also had to adjust the shift cable and found out how critical this is with the close spacing of a 12-speed cassette! About a 1/4 turn of the adjuster each way makes a big difference when shifting across all 12 gears. Getting on and off the largest cog smoothly took a few tries, but then I don't think I've ever actually shifted into that gear while riding...
 
Not to revive the endless "which saddle" thread but something interesting happened over the winter that's making me consider trying some other saddles on my SL. For the last two years I've had a (@Stefan Mikes approved) Selle Royale Respiro Moderate on my SL and also use a Respiro Athletic on my road bike. During the off-season, my road bike is mounted on an indoor trainer and I ride it frequently. For various reasons, riding indoors is harder on one's butt than riding outdoors, and mine was really bothering me this year. Well, just feet away I happened to have an almost-new Selle Anatomica saddle that I'd tried and rejected on my SL and had been unable to return or sell. So just for kicks I installed it on the road bike and since then that bike has never been so comfortable to ride continually for long periods of time!

Due to its cost, I'm reluctant at this point to get another Anatomica if I'm not sure that it won't end up as another expensive mistake in my parts box. So I think that I might just re-try some of the seats that I've previously rejected and see how it goes. One good candidate turns out to be the Brooks B-17 that I used 20 years ago on my old Sequoia touring bike. I also have the original Bridge saddle from the SL and a Bontrager that, again, I tried and maybe rejected too soon.

FWIW, the biggest hassle in swapping saddles is that the Redshift Shockstop has the worst saddle clamp design that I've ever encountered, but with time and patience maybe it will be worth it in the end.
 
Next Steps To Convert My Vado SL 4 EQ Into A Sporty Gravel Bike

I was getting unexplained inner tube punctures in the front wheel since the last gravel group ride; these were tiny holes with the deflation taking several hours! That made me really irritated. Solved the issue by filling the inner tube with a lot of sealant, spreading the liquid by often spinning the wheel, giving it time to seal the puncture, and reinflating. The issue seems to be temporarily solved but the whole situation made me want to do many modifications so I could enjoy a sporty gravel e-bike for this year's races.

First of all, I made a booking at an LBS in the neighbourhood for the tubeless conversion for April 15th! I need more aggresive gravel tyres in size 42-622 (700x42), so had to eventually remove the rear fender (including a damaged tail-light) and the rear-rack. (The front has its fender removed for several years now).

@CodyDog: you will laugh! I started with dropping the SL motor to see how the tail-light wire was routed :D It has turned out the wire is very long, and it travels above the motor and through the bottom tube to reach the TCU! So I did exactly what you did :) Cut the wire at the motor and insulated the end. I actually didn't need to drop the motor but at least learned doing it myself!

Removed the rear wheel to remove the fender and rear rack. One of the screws stuck. I got furious and now the fender including the damaged tail-light is in a bin. (Now, a Knog Road Blinder R70 is on the seat post as the tail-light).

Dropping the motor required removing the chainring. Having had such an opportunity made me swap the 42T chainring for a 36T one. That required shortening the chain. Now, I have a 11-51T 11-speed cassette, a 36T chainring, and the chain length is 118 links.

The next step will be temporarily installing the set of SKS Speedrocket mudguards for the wet season, and eventually the tubeless conversion. Does anybody have experience with Specialized Tracer Pro or Rhombus Pro tyres? I need more aggresive tyres for my gravel rides but would love having them rotating fast on asphalt! @Nubnub? @AvalancheRun?

No pictures until all the work has been finished and my Fearless gets a good washing! :) Now, I am almost ready for my races!
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Next Steps To Convert My Vado SL 4 EQ Into A Sporty Gravel Bike

I was getting unexplained inner tube punctures in the front wheel since the last gravel group ride; these were tiny holes with the deflation taking several hours! That made me really irritated. Solved the issue by filling the inner tube with a lot of sealant, spreading the liquid by often spinning the wheel, giving it time to seal the puncture, and reinflating. The issue seems to be temporarily solved but the whole situation made me want to do many modifications so I could enjoy a sporty gravel e-bike for this year's races.

First of all, I made a booking at an LBS in the neighbourhood for the tubeless conversion for April 15th! I need more aggresive gravel tyres in size 42-622 (700x42), so had to eventually remove the rear fender (including a damaged tail-light) and the rear-rack. (The front has its fender removed for several years now).

@CodyDog: you will laugh! I started with dropping the SL motor to see how the tail-light wire was routed :D It has turned out the wire is very long, and it travels above the motor and through the bottom tube to reach the TCU! So I did exactly what you did :) Cut the wire at the motor and insulated the end. I actually didn't need to drop the motor but at least learned doing it myself!

Removed the rear wheel to remove the fender and rear rack. One of the screws stuck. I got furious and now the fender including the damaged tail-light is in a bin. (Now, a Knog Road Blinder R70 is on the seat post as the tail-light).

Dropping the motor required removing the chainring. Having had such an opportunity made me swap the 42T chainring for a 36T one. That required shortening the chain. Now, I have a 11-51T 11-speed cassette, a 36T chainring, and the chain length is 118 links.

The next step will be temporarily installing the set of SKS Speedrocket mudguards for the wet season, and eventually the tubeless conversion. Does anybody have experience with Specialized Tracer Pro or Rhombus Pro tyres? I need more aggresive tyres for my gravel rides but would love having them rotating fast on asphalt! @Nubnub? @AvalancheRun?

No pictures until all the work has been finished and my Fearless gets a good washing! :) Now, I am almost ready for my races!
Click to expand...
Great info on the Long Wire! I'm interested to see which tyre you choose. I'm wanting to go wider than my 38's.
 
CodyDog said:
Great info on the Long Wire! I'm interested to see which tyre you choose. I'm wanting to go wider than my 38's.
Click to expand...
I have been stuck with the tyre size by the fender for a long time. I also needed to swap the tyres between seasons (now, I will use my Vado 6.0 as the heavy duty all season e-bike). The latter was preventing me from the tubeless conversion.

For a long time, tyre punctures were what happened to others. Now, I cannot let me be stuck by a flat on a group ride or a race, hence the decision of the tubeless conversion. Bigger volume and lower inflation pressure should do a lot for rough terrain rides.

Regarding the tyre tread... I do love Pathfinders Pro in normal warm season conditions. They are fast, supple, and with adequate grip for most of situations. However, the last Saturday's group ride in hard terrain and in the wet made me understand the limitations of these excellent tyres. We rode in the mud or wet sand. I felt insecure on the off-road segments! On the other hand, I had the Rhombus Pro 42 mm on two demo rides on a Diverge EVO and was amazed how good those tyres were off-road. Rhombus were not hopeless on the asphalt, either.

I'd like to hear a second opinion though.

P.S. I cannot re-use my Pathfinder Pros in any case as at least one of the tyres has been punctured.
 
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