Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[Rog]

In my blog I am outlining my thoughts on the Specialized Como versus Vado and the Gazelle T10. For new riders who want to do longer rides >20 miles but are not used to being in the saddle for long periods at a time, the Specialized Como is a better choice. More on my evaluation here https://ebikeexplorations.com

 

[GuruUno]

Picking up my Turbo Vado 5.0 tomorrow at noon.
I'd like to know if it is customary to request the LBS to provide a diagnostic report (as I would normally ask for and get with Trek), to be assured that all systems are go, the latest firmware and/or other items normally associated with the purchase of a Specialized e-bike.
I just want to be be assured that out the starting gate, there are no items to necessitate a return to the LBS immediately, etc.
I know that as an example last week when I went to pick up my Trek Allant+ 7S, the battery was 1/2 charged and the firmware was not the most current.
That to me, is an unacceptable behavior of a LBS who expect my business, and I want to be assured that I'm not going to follow the same road.
As a reference, I called about 6 different LBS's from Maine to Florida who had 5.0 Vado's in stock, but the most local shops did not nor did they even offer to order one (after being informed by the New Hampshire shop that the East Coast Specialized warehouse in Ohio had a few in stock). Ultimately I had to inform the LBS that I am purchasing from that they were in stock at the Ohio warehouse.
I understand most want to sell what they have in inventory, but??????
Hopefully the one I get won't be a 1-1/2 year old stale model.
We'll see.
Wish me success, I'm excited but also a little weary.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Picking up my Turbo Vado 5.0 tomorrow at noon.
I'd like to know if it is customary to request the LBS to provide a diagnostic report (as I would normally ask for and get with Trek), to be assured that all systems are go, the latest firmware and/or other items normally associated with the purchase of a Specialized e-bike.
I just want to be be assured that out the starting gate, there are no items to necessitate a return to the LBS immediately, etc.
I know that as an example last week when I went to pick up my Trek Allant+ 7S, the battery was 1/2 charged and the firmware was not the most current.
That to me, is an unacceptable behavior of a LBS who expect my business, and I want to be assured that I'm not going to follow the same road.
As a reference, I called about 6 different LBS's from Maine to Florida who had 5.0 Vado's in stock, but the most local shops did not nor did they even offer to order one (after being informed by the New Hampshire shop that the East Coast Specialized warehouse in Ohio had a few in stock). Ultimately I had to inform the LBS that I am purchasing from that they were in stock at the Ohio warehouse.
I understand most want to sell what they have in inventory, but??????
Hopefully the one I get won't be a 1-1/2 year old stale model.
We'll see.
Wish me success, I'm excited but also a little weary.

Congrats again on the new bike, even though shipping would have been about $250-300 to get it to you, I would have been happy to accommodate!

Regarding the firmware report like Bosch provides, I don't believe the Specialized software has that as you can connect to the bike via bluetooth and check your firmware pretty quickly. Turbo Studio is the program and it's very easy to update the bike, it also logs how many and when the bike has been plugged in, pretty neat.

The current display software is 13.4.0 if you're curious. The LBS should help you with setting up the Mission Control app too, make sure they walk through it to you, we sold a couple Vado 5.0's to a couple and I had to go through updating her entire android software to make sure MC worked. After some time everything worked great!

Any questions just ask, we'll all help as much as possible!

 

[GuruUno]

I installed the Mission Control software yesterday to get ready.
I'm on an Apple iPhone.
Are there any issues with the app on Apple vs. Android?
The Mission Control app is v2.3.1 Build 64
'Display' software meaning the display on the handlebars is v13.4.0, correct?
'Turbo Studio', is that a dealer app to perform the maintenance for firmware, etc., or is it end user done?
Much appreciated.

Last question....(for tonight), all the reading I've done on the forums here over the last few years had talked about the multiple motor replacements, issues, cracked frames, etc., so I guess the point is how do I know if I have the most current "everything", and not the old "everything else"? The last thing I need to have is growing pains with a bike that may have been in the warehouse because nobody wanted them because of the references to the items I've read about. Or all the 1.3 motors the new 2020 and they were produced in the Spring of 2019 and available later in the year?

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I installed the Mission Control software yesterday to get ready.
I'm on an Apple iPhone.
Are there any issues with the app on Apple vs. Android?
The Mission Control app is v2.3.1 Build 64
'Display' software meaning the display on the handlebars is v13.4.0, correct?
'Turbo Studio', is that a dealer app to perform the maintenance for firmware, etc., or is it end user done?
Much appreciated.

Last question....(for tonight), all the reading I've done on the forums here over the last few years had talked about the multiple motor replacements, issues, cracked frames, etc., so I guess the point is how do I know if I have the most current "everything", and not the old "everything else"? The last thing I need to have is growing pains with a bike that may have been in the warehouse because nobody wanted them because of the references to the items I've read about. Or all the 1.3 motors the new 2020 and they were produced in the Spring of 2019 and available later in the year?

I'll do my best to help you out.

As I understand the 2020 Vado 5.0 that you and I have is well vetted and the latest. Mine didn't even need a firmware update. There are bike left because folks aren't running out to buy a $4400 bike as much as they are running out to get the closeout 2019 Vado 3.0's we were able to get our hands on (they're all XL though). When I eventually upgrade the brakes on mine (no reason other than, why not?) I'll make note of the build tag on the motor. I suspect it'll have a 2019 date code on it, later in the year though.

No issues with Apple or Android, no worries there

With TCD most of the minor firmware updates are done through the display. You have to check the battery when the bike comes in but battery firmware updates are much less frequent.

Turbo Studio is the dealer software as are the special tools to update battery firmware.

I too have seen other Brose equipped bikes have some issues here and there. That said my experience with Specialized is their entire Turbo team is very quick with repair response and getting parts to dealers quickly. For instance I had a Vado 5.0 come in that had some paint chips on the battery cover. 4 days later I had the battery cover, pretty incredible during the pandemic!

One of the main reasons I ride the Vado is worst case I can let someone take my bike if theirs is down, or rob parts from my bike as needed.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Brendon, have you got some Bulls model with Brose motor and the BLOKS display in your store? I'm interested in your opinion because I look at the E-Stream EVO AM 45. How do the components and build of Bulls bikes compare to Specialized products?

I can't quite get you with the sprockets and cadence. My Vado has the 48t chainring and 11t smallest rear cog. With 2" tyres, I'm getting at 45 km/h with cadence of 76. If I want to spin faster, I shift down to 13t and it makes the cadence of 89. Further, if I go down to 15t, the cadence is 103. What is in your Vado I don't understand and you would like to change?

With regard to my comments on gearing, it's not that I can't sit at 100rpm, if I shift into the 13t out back it's fine, I just want to find the optimal gearing to sit at the rev limiter of 46-7kph and have a cadence of 100rpm. Currently I'm at around 92-94rpm in the 12t at 46kph. I want to raise that cadence and keep my power output in the 160-175 range and keep the bike at top speed.

Does that make sense? I'm trying to keep my effort in a target range and keep the bike at it's max assist speed and get my cadence in the 98-100rpm range.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

In my blog I am outlining my thoughts on the Specialized Como versus Vado and the Gazelle T10. For new riders who want to do longer rides >20 miles but are not used to being in the saddle for long periods at a time, the Specialized Como is a better choice. More on my evaluation here https://ebiketours.site/e-bike-reviews/

A remark: You've mentioned fatter tyres on the Como as the benefit against the Vado. Bear in mind that:

• The Como is equipped with a rigid fork, and it naturally requires thicker tyres. The Vado has a suspension fork;
• The Vado is ready to accept 2" slick grippy tyres, specifically the Specialized Electrak 2.0 Armadillo.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

With regard to my comments on gearing, it's not that I can't sit at 100rpm, if I shift into the 13t out back it's fine, I just want to find the optimal gearing to sit at the rev limiter of 46-7kph and have a cadence of 100rpm. Currently I'm at around 92-94rpm in the 12t at 46kph. I want to raise that cadence and keep my power output in the 160-175 range and keep the bike at top speed.

Does that make sense? I'm trying to keep my effort in a target range and keep the bike at it's max assist speed and get my cadence in the 98-100rpm range.

You wrote that you wanted to change the chainring to 50T (if it were available), and that would decrease the cadence? Did I misunderstand you? You also wrote about changing the 11T smallest rear cog to the 10T, again reducing the cadence...

It might be my misunderstanding.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

You wrote that you wanted to change the chainring to 50T (if it were available), and that would decrease the cadence? Did I misunderstand you? You also wrote about changing the 11T smallest rear cog to the 10T, again reducing the cadence...

It might be my misunderstanding.

Ah, you're correct if we're talking about keeping the bike in the top gear. Here's what I was thinking:

If I'm able to run a larger chainring in the front, the 50T, instead of being in the 12t cog out back I might be able to be happier in the 13t. I prefer having a bit more chain wrap too since there's so much power going through the drivetrain being in Turbo mode all the time.

If I can't find a 50T (which is the case thus far, not running those online only rings, no thanks) then I might be able to find a smaller chainring for the front, 46 or 45T and be in the 11T out back. The idea of switching to a driver cassette is I'd still have the 10T to shift to for descents where you can easily ride the bike well past it's assist level.

Does that help clarify?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Yes, absolutely.

 

[GuruUno]

I had asked in a separate posting, but will do so again here because it was either overlooked or ?
I and to possibly use the Sram AXS electronic shifting on the Vado 5.0
Had it on my Allant + 9.9S.
Loved it.
Will I need a XD hub adapter or have to have a whole new wheel laced with a new XD hub?

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I had asked in a separate posting, but will do so again here because it was either overlooked or ?
I and to possibly use the Sram AXS electronic shifting on the Vado 5.0
Had it on my Allant + 9.9S.
Loved it.
Will I need a XD hub adapter or have to have a whole new wheel laced with a new XD hub?

Did you get your bike yet?

The Vado can be fitted with the SRAM AXS system no problem. Albeit a big job but totally possible. The SRAM system is designed to work with 1x so it'll all play nice no problem.

The current wheels on your bike do have a driver freehub body available, that said, if you're going to upgrade the group, I'd encourage a wheel upgrade too. We're big fans of handbuilt wheels using DT Swiss hubs and Velocity rims. Great end product and there are some fun colors out there.

Here's my 5.0

 

[GuruUno]

Just picked it up. Raining, can't even ride it
Well, there is tomorrow.
RE: Sram AXS; I have the upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain).
So, all I need is the XG-1299 Eagle cassette and ?
(this?? https://www.amaincycling.com/specia...r-freehub-11-speed-fh535ha-s162100006/p629331 )
Or can you help me out ant tell me what else I'll need?

Backpedalling (pun), the Trek Allant+ 9.9S was suffering major issues with the OEM Shimano XS hub and most owners were replacing with an Onyx Classic + steel driver. Being an e-bike and not a road bike (or other non-electric), and given 90nm of torque, is there any concern about what to use?

I'd like to do all my homework so I can discuss intelligently with the LBS before blindly accepting any 'standard' direction (not knowing if another e-biker has ever done it).

I'm going to try OEM stock for a few days/weeks before any commitment to upgrades or modifications.

But if/when, I want to be fully comprehending what I'm to do and clear with the LBS prior to commitment.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Just picked it up. Raining, can't even ride it
Well, there is tomorrow.
RE: Sram AXS; I have the upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain).
So, all I need is the XG-1299 Eagle cassette and ?
(this?? https://www.amaincycling.com/specia...r-freehub-11-speed-fh535ha-s162100006/p629331 )
Or can you help me out ant tell me what else I'll need?

Backpedalling (pun), the Trek Allant+ 9.9S was suffering major issues with the OEM Shimano XS hub and most owners were replacing with an Onyx Classic + steel driver. Being an e-bike and not a road bike (or other non-electric), and given 90nm of torque, is there any concern about what to use?

I'd like to do all my homework so I can discuss intelligently with the LBS before blindly accepting any 'standard' direction (not knowing if another e-biker has ever done it).

I'm going to try OEM stock for a few days/weeks before any commitment to upgrades or modifications.

But if/when, I want to be fully comprehending what I'm to do and clear with the LBS prior to commitment.

Thanks for the reply.

Happy to continue the convo via email if that's easier, I replied to your other thread too so it'll help other users searching the same thing. Email is [email protected]

You need shifter, derailleur, chain, cassette (that Eagle cassette will work fine), and freehub body (from Specialized) to allow the use of a Driver cassette.

As powerful as these motors are, a fit cyclist blows them out of the water in terms of peak power. The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula. DT Swiss is superior, hence my suggestion of upgrading the wheels.

Keep in mind the wheels are the single best thing to upgrade in terms of performance.

I'd encourage you to put miles on the stock stuff for at least a month. I was set on swapping to a different drivetrain but have been VERY impressed with the standard Shimano spec on the 5.0. I still might upgrade the brakes to Shimano SLX 4 piston calipers though, I've got a pair on the shelf waiting.

Edit: Raining and you're not gonna ride?!?!?! It's got fenders, you're not gonna melt!!

 

[GuruUno]

It's that gooey, sticky, clamy, miserable type of a day.
I'll do 20-30 mi tomorrow, and maybe I'll be good with the stock shifter. We shall see.
Bummer I can't use my Kinect (as it's a 31.6mm seat post), gonna have to get a new one of those,
Vado 5.0 uses a 30.9mm I see, but do I get long or short? (350mm vs 420mm)
I'm on the list for the new just announced suspension stem too ( https://cirruscycles.com/pages/suspension-stem-sneak-peek )
The 100mm x 30 degree??

Other than that, I'm searching for any Rack Time ODIN bag for the rack. (87070295).
Seems like none around.
I can alway get a Velcro Amazon cheap bag, but any idea why the 'Snap-IT' bags are so difficult to find everywhere?

As re: "The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula"
Are you saying a wheel rebuild is in the works as it has to be laced, built, etc., or is it only "guts"? I'm not fully understanding how an XD hub in a axel hole.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

It's that gooey, sticky, clamy, miserable type of a day.
I'll do 20-30 mi tomorrow, and maybe I'll be good with the stock shifter. We shall see.
Bummer I can't use my Kinect (as it's a 31.6mm seat post), gonna have to get a new one of those,
Vado 5.0 uses a 30.9mm I see, but do I get long or short? (350mm vs 420mm)
I'm on the list for the new just announced suspension stem too ( https://cirruscycles.com/pages/suspension-stem-sneak-peek )
The 100mm x 30 degree??

Other than that, I'm searching for any Rack Time ODIN bag for the rack. (87070295).
Seems like none around.
I can alway get a Velcro Amazon cheap bag, but any idea why the 'Snap-IT' bags are so difficult to find everywhere?

As re: "The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula"
Are you saying a wheel rebuild is in the works as it has to be laced, built, etc., or is it only "guts"? I'm not fully understanding how an XD hub in a axel hole.

Rear hub: No, you do not need to rebuild the rear wheel. The freehub body is the part that the cassette (gears) sits on. It can be changed out on some hubs, the hub equipped on the Vado is one of those hubs. Very common bike shop term, they should know what you're talking about.

We can get the Odin bag, they're in our distributors warehouse in Miami. The Snap-it system is pretty nice for trunk bags.

You can always cut down a long seatpost, any reason not to get the 420?

Regarding stem, ride it stock and see if you like the stock fit of the stem/bar combo before ordering something that really has a lot to do with bike fit. On that note I'd say the same with the seatpost. Get the saddle height correct and see which post works best.

 

[GuruUno]

OK, I went on my 1st date. I fell in love with the Vado 5.0.
But you know how first dates are.
No complaints.
Shifts easily. Not like the horrendous experience I had on the Allant+ 9.9S.
So, I'll most likely be posting the SRAM AXS upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain) in the classified.
It has maybe 200 miles on it.
Don't see the need for the Vado 5.0 to go through all the hoops and expense to upgrade it, as OEM is fine.
The way I am, I'll probably be getting a new 2021 version anyway when and if they are any better or enticing.

My only problem is on page 13 of the manual the explanation for the display.
I cannot for the life of me get the steps down pat to change from km to miles.
Everything else is fine.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

OK, I went on my 1st date. I fell in love with the Vado 5.0.
But you know how first dates are.
No complaints.
Shifts easily. Not like the horrendous experience I had on the Allant+ 9.9S.
So, I'll most likely be posting the SRAM AXS upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain) in the classified.
It has maybe 200 miles on it.
Don't see the need for the Vado 5.0 to go through all the hoops and expense to upgrade it, as OEM is fine.
The way I am, I'll probably be getting a new 2021 version anyway when and if they are any better or enticing.

My only problem is on page 13 of the manual the explanation for the display.
I cannot for the life of me get the steps down pat to change from km to miles.
Everything else is fine.

The delivered a $4400 bike without changing the display?

Hold the left button on the display, it'll eventually change to the settings menu. Don't mess with anything in there, it's all set when the firmware was updated (time and date stuff). Once you access the menu, release the left button, and briefly press both buttons on display to click through the settings, you'll eventually arrive at "units", click the left button to change from metric to imp. After that press both buttons until you're back to the regular screen.

 

[GuruUno]

Yea, I hear ya. They updated everything when I got there and I did not think to look.
Here are the screenshots for all the updates.
Is that wheel circumference correct? 86.22??

 

[Sierratim]

I don't believe the wheel setting is quite correct. Looks like it should be 89.29 inches