Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Just picked it up. Raining, can't even ride it :(
Well, there is tomorrow.
RE: Sram AXS; I have the upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain).
So, all I need is the XG-1299 Eagle cassette and ?
(this?? https://www.amaincycling.com/specia...r-freehub-11-speed-fh535ha-s162100006/p629331 )
Or can you help me out ant tell me what else I'll need?

Backpedalling (pun), the Trek Allant+ 9.9S was suffering major issues with the OEM Shimano XS hub and most owners were replacing with an Onyx Classic + steel driver. Being an e-bike and not a road bike (or other non-electric), and given 90nm of torque, is there any concern about what to use?

I'd like to do all my homework so I can discuss intelligently with the LBS before blindly accepting any 'standard' direction (not knowing if another e-biker has ever done it).

I'm going to try OEM stock for a few days/weeks before any commitment to upgrades or modifications.

But if/when, I want to be fully comprehending what I'm to do and clear with the LBS prior to commitment.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Just picked it up. Raining, can't even ride it :(
Well, there is tomorrow.
RE: Sram AXS; I have the upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain).
So, all I need is the XG-1299 Eagle cassette and ?
(this?? https://www.amaincycling.com/specia...r-freehub-11-speed-fh535ha-s162100006/p629331 )
Or can you help me out ant tell me what else I'll need?

Backpedalling (pun), the Trek Allant+ 9.9S was suffering major issues with the OEM Shimano XS hub and most owners were replacing with an Onyx Classic + steel driver. Being an e-bike and not a road bike (or other non-electric), and given 90nm of torque, is there any concern about what to use?

I'd like to do all my homework so I can discuss intelligently with the LBS before blindly accepting any 'standard' direction (not knowing if another e-biker has ever done it).

I'm going to try OEM stock for a few days/weeks before any commitment to upgrades or modifications.

But if/when, I want to be fully comprehending what I'm to do and clear with the LBS prior to commitment.

Thanks for the reply.

Happy to continue the convo via email if that's easier, I replied to your other thread too so it'll help other users searching the same thing. Email is [email protected]

You need shifter, derailleur, chain, cassette (that Eagle cassette will work fine), and freehub body (from Specialized) to allow the use of a Driver cassette.

As powerful as these motors are, a fit cyclist blows them out of the water in terms of peak power. The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula. DT Swiss is superior, hence my suggestion of upgrading the wheels.

Keep in mind the wheels are the single best thing to upgrade in terms of performance.

I'd encourage you to put miles on the stock stuff for at least a month. I was set on swapping to a different drivetrain but have been VERY impressed with the standard Shimano spec on the 5.0. I still might upgrade the brakes to Shimano SLX 4 piston calipers though, I've got a pair on the shelf waiting.

Edit: Raining and you're not gonna ride?!?!?! It's got fenders, you're not gonna melt!!
 
It's that gooey, sticky, clamy, miserable type of a day.
I'll do 20-30 mi tomorrow, and maybe I'll be good with the stock shifter. We shall see.
Bummer I can't use my Kinect (as it's a 31.6mm seat post), gonna have to get a new one of those, :)
Vado 5.0 uses a 30.9mm I see, but do I get long or short? (350mm vs 420mm)
I'm on the list for the new just announced suspension stem too ( https://cirruscycles.com/pages/suspension-stem-sneak-peek )
The 100mm x 30 degree??

Other than that, I'm searching for any Rack Time ODIN bag for the rack. (87070295).
Seems like none around.
I can alway get a Velcro Amazon cheap bag, but any idea why the 'Snap-IT' bags are so difficult to find everywhere?

As re: "The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula"
Are you saying a wheel rebuild is in the works as it has to be laced, built, etc., or is it only "guts"? I'm not fully understanding how an XD hub in a axel hole.
 
It's that gooey, sticky, clamy, miserable type of a day.
I'll do 20-30 mi tomorrow, and maybe I'll be good with the stock shifter. We shall see.
Bummer I can't use my Kinect (as it's a 31.6mm seat post), gonna have to get a new one of those, :)
Vado 5.0 uses a 30.9mm I see, but do I get long or short? (350mm vs 420mm)
I'm on the list for the new just announced suspension stem too ( https://cirruscycles.com/pages/suspension-stem-sneak-peek )
The 100mm x 30 degree??

Other than that, I'm searching for any Rack Time ODIN bag for the rack. (87070295).
Seems like none around.
I can alway get a Velcro Amazon cheap bag, but any idea why the 'Snap-IT' bags are so difficult to find everywhere?

As re: "The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula"
Are you saying a wheel rebuild is in the works as it has to be laced, built, etc., or is it only "guts"? I'm not fully understanding how an XD hub in a axel hole.

Rear hub: No, you do not need to rebuild the rear wheel. The freehub body is the part that the cassette (gears) sits on. It can be changed out on some hubs, the hub equipped on the Vado is one of those hubs. Very common bike shop term, they should know what you're talking about.

We can get the Odin bag, they're in our distributors warehouse in Miami. The Snap-it system is pretty nice for trunk bags.

You can always cut down a long seatpost, any reason not to get the 420?

Regarding stem, ride it stock and see if you like the stock fit of the stem/bar combo before ordering something that really has a lot to do with bike fit. On that note I'd say the same with the seatpost. Get the saddle height correct and see which post works best.
 
OK, I went on my 1st date. I fell in love with the Vado 5.0.
But you know how first dates are. :)
No complaints.
Shifts easily. Not like the horrendous experience I had on the Allant+ 9.9S.
So, I'll most likely be posting the SRAM AXS upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain) in the classified.
It has maybe 200 miles on it.
Don't see the need for the Vado 5.0 to go through all the hoops and expense to upgrade it, as OEM is fine.
The way I am, I'll probably be getting a new 2021 version anyway when and if they are any better or enticing.

My only problem is on page 13 of the manual the explanation for the display.
I cannot for the life of me get the steps down pat to change from km to miles.
Everything else is fine.
 
OK, I went on my 1st date. I fell in love with the Vado 5.0.
But you know how first dates are. :)
No complaints.
Shifts easily. Not like the horrendous experience I had on the Allant+ 9.9S.
So, I'll most likely be posting the SRAM AXS upgrade kit (controller and DERAILLEUR) + the XX1 chain) in the classified.
It has maybe 200 miles on it.
Don't see the need for the Vado 5.0 to go through all the hoops and expense to upgrade it, as OEM is fine.
The way I am, I'll probably be getting a new 2021 version anyway when and if they are any better or enticing.

My only problem is on page 13 of the manual the explanation for the display.
I cannot for the life of me get the steps down pat to change from km to miles.
Everything else is fine.

The delivered a $4400 bike without changing the display?

Hold the left button on the display, it'll eventually change to the settings menu. Don't mess with anything in there, it's all set when the firmware was updated (time and date stuff). Once you access the menu, release the left button, and briefly press both buttons on display to click through the settings, you'll eventually arrive at "units", click the left button to change from metric to imp. After that press both buttons until you're back to the regular screen.
 
Yea, I hear ya. They updated everything when I got there and I did not think to look.
Here are the screenshots for all the updates.
Is that wheel circumference correct? 86.22??
All Firmwares.PNG
Battery.PNG
Display.PNG
Motor.PNG
Diagnose.PNG
 
I don't believe the wheel setting is quite correct. Looks like it should be 89.29 inches
 

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It's that gooey, sticky, clamy, miserable type of a day.
I'll do 20-30 mi tomorrow, and maybe I'll be good with the stock shifter. We shall see.
Bummer I can't use my Kinect (as it's a 31.6mm seat post), gonna have to get a new one of those, :)
Vado 5.0 uses a 30.9mm I see, but do I get long or short? (350mm vs 420mm)
I'm on the list for the new just announced suspension stem too ( https://cirruscycles.com/pages/suspension-stem-sneak-peek )
The 100mm x 30 degree??

Other than that, I'm searching for any Rack Time ODIN bag for the rack. (87070295).
Seems like none around.
I can alway get a Velcro Amazon cheap bag, but any idea why the 'Snap-IT' bags are so difficult to find everywhere?

As re: "The hub Specialized uses on their e bikes is the same hub they use on their mountain stuff made by Formula"
Are you saying a wheel rebuild is in the works as it has to be laced, built, etc., or is it only "guts"? I'm not fully understanding how an XD hub in a axel hole.
@GuruUno: If their sale is still on, you can order a Kinekt seatpost with 25% off from Selle Anatomica. Their saddles were on sale too. I ordered both an H2 saddle and Kinekt suspension seatpost for my Vado 4.0 then separately ordered just the Kinekt suspension seatpost for my wife’s Vado 5.0. Got the 25% discount off of both orders. The seat tube on the Vado’s is curved so I ordered the short length. Also was an early bird on kick starter for the Kinekt suspension stem. Got them to use in conjunction with Kinekt suspension seatpost post for my rigid Trek SC +7 and my wife’s Electra TC 8i. They work great, but I wouldn’t put the Kinekt suspension stem on the Vado’s since they have suspension forks. https://selleanatomica.com/
The H2 saddle is far and away the best saddle I’ve ever owned. It’s like sitting on a hammock with adjustable tension.
 
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Thanks for that heads up.....thank you!
My wife has the TC 8i also, I kinda like it....used it a few times, nice bike.
I actually was at the starting gate for the REDSHIFT ShockStop Suspension Seat post too, and this is what is on my wife's Electra TC 8i.
I quite frankly like the Kinect better, but she's happy too!
 
The delivered a $4400 bike without changing the display?

Hold the left button on the display, it'll eventually change to the settings menu. Don't mess with anything in there, it's all set when the firmware was updated (time and date stuff). Once you access the menu, release the left button, and briefly press both buttons on display to click through the settings, you'll eventually arrive at "units", click the left button to change from metric to imp. After that press both buttons until you're back to the regular screen.

PERFECT! I guess that process - step by step so elegantly explained should be on page 13-1/2!
Done, perfect directions.
 
Guess that has to be done by the dealer, right?
I don't see anywhere to access it in the Mission app.
Thanks
Correct. The wheel circumference is set through the dealer's software. I think it's to prevent defeating the speed limits for motor assist.
 
PERFECT! I guess that process - step by step so elegantly explained should be on page 13-1/2!
Done, perfect directions.
Our Vados came with instruction sheets for the display separate from the bike manuals. I believe the instructions for setting up the TCD-W and TCD displays are the same and are available HERE .
 
Correct. The wheel circumference is set through the dealer's software. I think it's to prevent defeating the speed limits for motor assist.
@Sierratim: I think my speed/distance may be running about 5% faster/farther on the Vado TCD-W computer when compared to my Garmin 810 (with a hub speed sensor), even when compared to my Apple Watch (measured by GPS). Also runs about 5% farther than my wife’s Vado 5.0 TCD-W. Not a major concern, just a little annoying. I thought it might be due to the wheel circumference set in my TCD-W display? Any thoughts?
 
Well, it took "only" four months, but I finally feel like I have the bike that I paid for. My motor has been replaced and, after a firmware update was applied, the bike performs as expected and there's no more clicking from the motor. I'm especially happy about this since an unanticipated health issue has made it more desirable to use the e-bike so as to not exert myself as much as usual. So I'm riding it almost exclusively when conditions permit.
 
Well, it took "only" four months, but I finally feel like I have the bike that I paid for. My motor has been replaced and, after a firmware update was applied, the bike performs as expected and there's no more clicking from the motor. I'm especially happy about this since an unanticipated health issue has made it more desirable to use the e-bike so as to not exert myself as much as usual. So I'm riding it almost exclusively when conditions permit.
@rochrunner: Glad to hear they finally got your e-bike issues resolved. Hope that you enjoy riding it and that it helps with maintaining your health!
 
@Sierratim: I think my speed/distance may be running about 5% faster/farther on the Vado TCD-W computer when compared to my Garmin 810 (with a hub speed sensor), even when compared to my Apple Watch (measured by GPS). Also runs about 5% farther than my wife’s Vado 5.0 TCD-W. Not a major concern, just a little annoying. I thought it might be due to the wheel circumference set in my TCD-W display? Any thoughts?
Our Vados were delivered at the same time from the same LBS with identical wheels and tires yet had wheel settings that were more than 5% different so I'd say take at a look at your settings. You'll need to have the Mission Control app connected to you bike for this.
 
Our Vados were delivered at the same time from the same LBS with identical wheels and tires yet had wheel settings that were more than 5% different so I'd say take at a look at your settings. You'll need to have the Mission Control app connected to you bike for this.
Can I set the wheel circumference myself or do I need my LBS to do that?
 
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