Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Several Vado 5.0 (Speed version) Fixes and Modifications After 2 Years of Use

My brother Jacek did a great job as of today on my "big" Vado:
  • Repairing the STOP indicator switch in a TRP Zurich brake lever
  • Lowering the stem as much as possible
  • Fixing the number plate support at the rear fender
  • Swapping the tyres for Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus 50-622.
1638046540903.png

  1. Tektro Racing Products (TRP) is using a reed switch (at the left) to activate the STOP indicator whenever you depress the Zurich brake lever. The lever moves a permanent magnet that closes the contacts of the reed switch. As you can see, the signal wire was broken. It took Jacek quite a while to use a piece of his own wire to solder, insulate, and place the brake sensor back in the place (it was for the left brake lever).

  2. Two years ago I used a 75 mm stem riser to raise the Vado stem for a more upright riding position. Two years of cycling teaches you a lot. I was experiencing sore butt on any long ride! It was because almost all my body weight was resting on the saddle. Quite recently, I was researching the possibilities for more aero riding position on my Vado SL. It was because the VSL as a low power e-bike has been very susceptible to headwind, and my torso was acting as an air drag brake. Following advice of fellow EBR Forum members, I lowered the VSL stem as low as possible, and I even slammed the Redshift ShockStop stem into -6 deg position! To find out the sporty (forward) riding position was quite comfortable, and a big part of my body weight was shifted on the handlebars. My sore backside issues became the matter of the past!

    Following the suit, I asked my brother to totally remove the stem riser on my Vado 5.0, and place the stem as low as possible (with replacing the main bolt with a shorter one). It worked!

  3. Jacek has fixed the attachment of the number plate holder to the rear fender. It was the last time to do it!

  4. And he has swapped the tyres for winter ones.
The last news:
I finally got my third Specialized 604 W Vado/Como battery. The price was approximately US$1,230 (we pay VAT in Europe). The battery cover is so-called Satin. In fact, it is somewhat Navy Blue. I don't care: I will be able to identify my three batteries easily: Gray, Black/Gray, Navy Blue :) The way to make a double metric century is open for me!

@Rider51, @Brendon@TBSM: Do you think a new battery is in some "hibernated" state and could be stored for say 1 year unused until it were charged for the first time?
 
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I figured I'd hop in here for my first post. My Turbo Vado 4.0 is almost two years old now and crossed over 3540 miles (5700k) this morning with most of the miles being put on in the last fourteen months. It is completely stock save for a bottle cage, Schwalbe Energizer Plus 700x47 tires, and three rear wheel spokes that popped and had to be replaced. I will likely need to replace the chainring, cassette, and chain very soon. I already have a KMC chain but the Shmano HG-500 11-42 seems to be out of stock in most places so I'm going to go with a Sunrace 11-42 and see how that treats me. I'm also going to use a wax lubricant this time around given I ride to work in rain.
 
DCeB said:
I figured I'd hop in here for my first post. My Turbo Vado 4.0 is almost two years old now and crossed over 3540 miles (5700k) this morning with most of the miles being put on in the last fourteen months. It is completely stock save for a bottle cage, Schwalbe Energizer Plus 700x47 tires, and three rear wheel spokes that popped and had to be replaced. I will likely need to replace the chainring, cassette, and chain very soon. I already have a KMC chain but the Shmano HG-500 11-42 seems to be out of stock in most places so I'm going to go with a Sunrace 11-42 and see how that treats me. I'm also going to use a wax lubricant this time around given I ride to work in rain.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have used and enjoyed the Vado. Continue doing so.
 
DCeB said:
. I already have a KMC chain but the Shmano HG-500 11-42 seems to be out of stock in most places so I'm going to go with a Sunrace 11-42 and see how that treats me. I'm also going to use a wax lubricant this time around given I ride to work in rain.
Click to expand...
I went to buy the same Shimano cassette for my indoor trainer that I use on my road bike. I found one online but the same thing that cost me about $60 a couple years ago they wanted $165 for now! Since it's only for the trainer, I guess I'll look for one of the cheaper brands for $100 less.
 
Last I saw, the SunRace 10 speed 11-42 cassettes were anywhere from $60 to $70. They have two (maybe three) versions of varying weights.
 
I had a clicking in my Como drivetrain I noticed the other day, and think I noticed before. This time I thought I had better investigate, the easy stuff first. Got the chain checker out and going around the chain, it appears the master link was the culprit. I had put a gold link in to make it easier to clean and lube so I wouldn't have to look for the master link so hard, eyes getting fuzzy you know. So apparently the gold link was inferior and I replaced with a Shimano link. Everything else checked out OK, low miles on the chain at about 500.

On the other hand, the Vado at 1470 miles did not pass the chain checker test. At the .5 wear mark I can push it through the links finally. So I think I'll replace the chain. I was expecting more miles as I don't use a lot of assist. I'll bet it is the chain line running to the large and small cogs at the rear that puts a lot of stress on the chain parts.

Good enough for government work.

That gold link was a KMC link on a Shimano HG601 oem chain btw.
 
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I was thinking of leaving the chain guard on the front sprocket off to make it easier to see and clean the sprocket. Anybody riding without the front chain guard and how do you like it?

Some used to use the chain guards on karts to save the sprocket if there was an impact. Don't see the sprockets on the bikes in any danger of impact but there are no pedals next to the sprockets on the karts either.
 
Marcela said:
I was thinking of leaving the chain guard on the front sprocket off to make it easier to see and clean the sprocket. Anybody riding without the front chain guard and how do you like it?

Some used to use the chain guards on karts to save the sprocket if there was an impact. Don't see the sprockets on the bikes in any danger of impact but there are no pedals next to the sprockets on the karts either.
Click to expand...
lots of bikes don't have chain guards. it's mostly to protect your pants, shoelaces, etc from coming into contact with a greasy moving chain. may have some value for very rough off road riding too, protecting the chain and front ring from impacts that might cause a dropped or damaged chain. i have one bike with, one without, doesn't make much difference to me.
 
Marcela said:
I was thinking of leaving the chain guard on the front sprocket off to make it easier to see and clean the sprocket. Anybody riding without the front chain guard and how do you like it?

Some used to use the chain guards on karts to save the sprocket if there was an impact. Don't see the sprockets on the bikes in any danger of impact but there are no pedals next to the sprockets on the karts either.
Click to expand...
mschwett said:
lots of bikes don't have chain guards. it's mostly to protect your pants, shoelaces, etc from coming into contact with a greasy moving chain. may have some value for very rough off road riding too, protecting the chain and front ring from impacts that might cause a dropped or damaged chain. i have one bike with, one without, doesn't make much difference to me.
Click to expand...
I ride my Vado with a 38T steel chainring without the chainguard. No issues but I don't mind my shoes or cycling winter trousers getting stained. What mschwett said is the best answer! (For instance, the e-MTB I used to own had a 38T bare chainring but it was also equipped with a chain-guide only meant to protect against chain jumping off in rough terrain).
 
Hi have recently purchased a Vado Sl4 in the UK. It's a terrific bike, but I have succeeded in breaking the front headlight bracket. Is there a more robust metal alternative available anywhere?
Many thanks
Maurice Pyman.
 
I'm getting some funky goings on at the chain/gear level after I changed the chain with no other changes. Checked the torque on the chain ring as I had it off and it is good. Sounds like at the rear and am wondering if the gears on the cassette are worn enough the new chain is not playing well. The chain is the exact same part number that came off, HG601.

This is the first chain change at 1470 miles with the chain just barely breaking the .5 barrier. I can't imagine it is the cassette gears but can't think of anything else. The master links are fine, never see any obvious metal wear. The front chain ring and chain are in sync.

Don't have the old chain anymore or I'd put it back on to check.
 
I'm getting the same on my big Vado Marcela. The cassette replaced in the Summer and the chain replaced recently. Chain skipping at the 11th gear.
 
Do you happen to know the stock cassette number for the 11-42 range 11 spd? I'm lookin right now.

That's crazy these gears don't last longer if that is my problem. I gave the chain away and trying to get it back to see if I can put it back on and the result.
 
Found it. Shimano SLX 11-42t for the 11 spd pre 2022 Vado. Praxis works 48t chainring. Also 124 link HG601 chain on mine. Here is the review with listed specs:

electricbikereview.com

Specialized Turbo Vado 5.0 Review

Price: $5150 | Model Year: 2020 | A high-speed, feature-complete, urban electric bike with unique tubular fenders that have flexible extensions and water routing system to keep your legs, back and face dry, integrated lights and a tight modern rack Available in 6 sizes including high-step and...
electricbikereview.com electricbikereview.com

I'm thinking of the chain goes and the cassette goes with it, might as well ride them til the chain and gears take a major dump then change it all out together.
 
What happens if I change the chainring from 48t to 40t? How confused does the computer get?
I’d lose 5 mph at top end from 30 to 25 but I rarely go above 25 anyway and it is a struggle for the bike to get above 25. It’d also move me towards the center of the cassette as I peddle unassisted s majority of the time.

Never mind. Changing from 48 to 40 only changes one gear at the rear. 48 to 36 changes two gears which might be worth it. One gear at the rear hardly worth the trouble unless it’s time to change out the chainring anyway.
 
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Sorry for missing your posts Marcela.
Marcela said:
What happens if I change the chainring from 48t to 40t? How confused does the computer get?
Click to expand...
The e-bike controller won't even notice the change. It is not a Bosch :D
My choice was 48T -> 38T (steel) and it is for the 11-46T cassette. I'm not a speed king but can produce pretty high cadence when necessary. The swap has had its good and worse sides.

Pros:
  • It was mandatory for me to lower the gear ratio for my Summer mountain rides. I would not make 19% grade climbs otherwise, and even 14% could be problematic, even in full Turbo. The climbs had been very long!
  • It gave my Vado tremendous acceleration, which I just love!
Cons:
  • The 11T cog got damaged in just 2,000 km
  • Decreased average speed on my rides (I have become more careful lately).
1639435190405.png

See the 38T Shimano e-bike rated steel chainring (Shimano Steps SM-CRE80).
 
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Thanks Stefan. I had a new cassette i installed but it was 11-34. I still have the issue so I have a 36t chainring on the way now. All new components should solve it. The 36t chainring should move the chain 2 cogs closer to being in line with the front for my riding style. Maybe my dry moly lube wasn’t all it was cracked up to be but it works well on the other nonebikes. I’m going to the old standard motor oil and see what happens.
 
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